So ... you wanna buy / just bought a 1st Gen Tundra, eh?

Look, I'm not a genius. Just the sucker conned into posting this!

The "what should I look out for?" question pops often. To avoid help re-typing / copy-pasting the same canned responses, after collective discussion, some of us opted to make this thread. The first few replies here cover what most folks need to know.

There's a good chance a forum regular linked you here for help. If you're new, welcome to Tundras.com, stick around, but be sure to read the very brief Code of Conduct.

So you just bought a 1st Gen Tundra, or you're thinking about it, eh?

There's general you must know, some quirks and anomalies, and several topics that tend to generate new repetitive posts. This list will be updated semi-regularly.

There's TONS of 1st gen info on Tundras.com. The Search feature will help find a lot of it. Some technical data is archived, like wiring diagrams (Tundra, Sequoia), Owner's manuals, Service manuals, Maintenance info, brochures and major features by year, a crash book for parts, keyless entry programming info, torque specs, also see TSBs and other docs linked in reply #2. There's even a thread on finding/ordering OEM parts direct from Toyota w/big discounts here.

When buying or hunting for a 1GT truck, the single most-important thing to know:

FRAME RUST, FRAME RUST, FRAME RUST!

• NEVER buy a 1GT without thoroughly and I mean thoroughly inspecting the frame. Can't stress this enough! So many ppl come to Tundras.com after being screwed by shady sellers, gaping frame holes, cracked frames, can't pass inspection, all b/c they didn't know to scrutinize the frame. Some bought online w/o seeing the frame, seller claimed "southern truck", leaving a buyer stuck w/loss or lawsuit. If you choose to buy w/o poring over the frame, nobody to blame but yourself! A few frame repair parts exist, here & here, but DIY repairs add up, DIY frame swaps are tedious/expensive.
• Some (not all) common spots to check HERE.
• The above is true regardless where you buy the truck or where sellers say it lived. We've seen California- and Arizona-sold truck frames rusted out b/c previous owners commuted to, adventured in, or worked in Utah, for example. Bring a hammer and tap away. If you see significant rust, BAIL (or post ample pics in a new thread asking if it's bad). See previous link for pics/info, also check shock/leaf spring mounts. Check inside both framerails under the cab, where Toyota riveted in extra frame stiffeners. Cab mounts.
• There was a frame recall on earlier models. Toyota is still replacing frames but ONLY IF a previous owner didn't have Toyota to coat their frames (that helped frames rust inside-out). Check the frame recall info thread for info.
• Beware of lipstick on pig! Shiny black frames are an instant red flag for cover-up! Frames should be hazy/dull/eggshell black, not shiny. Smooth metal, no bumps or pimples. Even the original dealer-applied coatings dull after a few years. No reason for a shiny frame unless it was replaced recently.
• Another red flag: Rust on bolts/clamps in the engine bay. It's common to see on trucks from road-salted areas.
• Check all four cab mounts for rust. It's possible (not "easy") to replace cab mounts. This thread may help on replacement.
• Before you ask in the forum ... "What does it cost for/what's involved with/how could I frame swap..." To start, you need to check the "cab types" section of this post for info on selecting correct frames, frame differences. This is what you can expect work-wise, if DIY. Cost-wise, for DIY, you'll be out of pocket the cost of the frame, any specialty tools, and any parts you break / replace during swap, avg. cost is probably $2k-$3k. That's similar to what you'll pay Toyota replacing the frame under recall. If you have the dealership do it outside of recall, you're looking at minimum $10k-12k and we've seen quotes as high as $17k. If you can find a legit shop capable to swap frames, after labor and everything else, I'd ballpark $6k-$8k. In other words: If you aren't capable of swapping the frame yourself, you're better off just finding another truck.

Important considerations for mileage/engine related stuff

• These aren't your average trucks, they easily go 400k-500k+ miles without any rebuilding, just regular maintenance. It's not a Ford, Dodge, or GM truck. You shouldn't need to worry about replacing the transmission after 100k miles, or even 200k or 300k, nor rebuild the engine after the same. Regular maintenance is king, look for service records, get as much history as you can. DO NOT be super concerned of what would most normally consider "high" mileage. It's perfectly normal to buy a 1GT with 200k-300k miles on it.
• To that point, DO be somewhat concerned about LOW mile 'grandpa'/'virgin' trucks. Low mileage is NOT necessarily a 'good' thing, and you'd be wise to NOT seek out sub-100k mile trucks. Why? At the ripe age of 15-20 years old, your realistic 'break-in' range for these trucks is around the 125k-175k miles, i.e. at least 8k-10k miles per year. Believe me, I bought a 62k mile truck, some other members at 30k-90k miles. Many who dared show under their valve covers found varnish at best, full-on sludge at at worst (example) (example) (example). Meanwhile, the guys with 200k-400k miles have nice, silver, shiny, pristine heads (example). Bottom line: Engines hate short-trip driving. Short-trip driving is exactly how a 15-20 year old truck gets under 125k miles on it. Short-trip-driven vehicles often have problems of neglect/atrophy: shrunken gaskets & seals, charred or varnished heads, sometimes crusty wiring & internals ... while the rest looks pristine. Expect typical low-mile leaks, expect to replace cam seals and valve cover gaskets, and depending on what you find, you may need to do short-interval oil change cycles or gasket-safe flushes to clean up sludge and varnish.
• TIMING BELT. This is huge. The 2UZ-FE specifically is a low-interference engine. If it snaps, above idle/low RPM, the engine may be toast. Toyota says change @ 9yrs or 90k miles w/OEM parts. Sure, you may get 100k, 120k, 10-15 years w/o change. Hell, we saw one go 200k on what could be the original. However, we also saw members w/barely 100k snap the factory belt. Do yourself a favor, get a 10mm ratchet, loosen a timing cover, and inspect the belt. If you find cracks, don't drive, it may be your last ride on that engine. Don't trust belt change stickers under the hood on new-to-you trucks, take 5mins to verify the belt. Those stickers cost $1-2 online, anyone can slap one on as a selling point. Belt change videos for DIY'ers are here. Shops charge $1k-2k parts & labor to to replace w/new-OEM brand (Toyota/AISIN). Aim for mechanics specializing in Toyota, dealerships charge anywhere 20%-40% more than a private shop. Don't use non-OEM parts here, and change the water pump, pulleys, tensioner while in there.
• There was an issue in earlier models ('00-02) where the planetary gear suddenly grenades if you tow in OD. Rare, but it's happened enough to see a few threads (one, and another). More than Tundras were affected by this issue.

Cab types and why it matters:

• There are 3 cab types for the 1GT: Access Cab ("AC"), Regular Cab ("RC"), Double Cab ("DC"). This is such a key piece of info when asking for advice or help, so be sure you update the truck info in your forum user profile to indicate which cab type you have (and engine, and drivetrain). It'll help others more-easily help you and give advice.
• DC trucks didn't come into existence until late 2003 for the 2004 model year.
• AC trucks were the only ones offered with a stepside bed, starting in late 2002 for the 2003 year. DC and RC trucks never got one. Bed sizes are different between AC/RC/DC, so this isn't an interchangeable thing. More on bed sizes a few points down.
• RC/AC trucks are very similar to one another frame-wise, door-wise, fender/headlight/bumper-wise, fender flares, bedsides, and in many other ways - lots of interchangeable parts. DC trucks are more closely related to the Sequoia, sharing many same part/body characteristics, and the DC has a taller bedside, which may be a consideration for those with accessibility issues. Frames, doors, beds, headlights, and many other parts DO NOT interchange between DC trucks and their AC/RC counterparts.
• Frame-wise, AC and RC can interchange as long as the engine/drivetrain matches. If your DC frame is rusted out, you're stuck hunting for another DC frame with the same drivetrain.
• Rear axle shot, and you need to get a replacement? Stick with your general year and cab type. The DC axle housing is is different width than AC/RC. Likewise, the Sequoia rear has discs and different provisions. This can make replacing your rear axle housing a bit tricky.
• A lot of wiring differs between the cab types and based on your factory options.
• RC didn't come with a rear power window. Some AC came with a 3pc horizontal slider. DC/Sequoia is the only model with a rear 1pc vertical power window. Likewise, only DC/Sequoia came with sunroof.
• The overhead console that has time/outside temperature and/or compass. is another DC-exclusive. NO, that overhead console won't fit in an AC or RC truck without significantly modifying the headliner (at least) and rewiring your truck from the fusebox to roof. If you have a DC but no overhead console, the wiring for that special console may be tucked up in your headliner, check for it!
• Some DC trucks (but not AC/RC) came pre-wired for an auto-dimming rearview, like the Sequoia. That being said, if you want to add an auto-dimming mirror, with compass, HomeLink garage door opener, outside temp, or whatever else, this post should direct you to necessary details/pictures you need. DC owners may have the wiring tucked into the headliner above the console opening. You may find the temp sensor wiring on the firewall as seen in that post above. AC/RC cab owners need to retrofit; there are OEM harnesses available, but the kits aren't plug 'n play...
• RC trucks have a short cab and long bed. AC trucks have a longer cab and shorter bed (6'4"). DC trucks have an extra long cab and shortest bed (6'2"). Obviously, this means caps/shells/campers and tonneau covers ARE NOT truly interchangeable between the AC/RC/DC.
• Suspension and wheel/tire offerings fit differently between AC/RC and the DC. If you install the lift you saw on your favorite DC truck into your AC/RC you likely WILL NOT get the same result. Your AC/RC truck is lighter, slightly different suspension, thus you'll see more lift, possibly over-extending and damaging stuff or leaving you with serious squat issues. Likewise, for wheels/tires, DC trucks seem to rub more easily than AC/RC trucks with 32.5 - 33.5" tires (and larger).
• Some parts, like steering wheels, wheel/tire combos, etc. transfer between all cab types and multiple generations. If in doubt, ask.
• AC/RC trucks didn't use chipped immobilizer keys. Some DC and Sequoia did, not all. Sometimes a low battery for chipped/immob trucks can result in no-start conditions.

Drivetrains available and other related info (including 4WD debugging):

• If you're reading this because your 4WD isn't working and you need help, check THIS REPLY for some helpful troubleshooting steps to take.
• You either get a V6 (2 types) or V8 (2UZ-FE). For V6, it was either 3.4 (5VZ-FE) in 2000-2004, widely considered one of Toyota's best V6 engines, or the VVTi-integrated 4.0L (1GR-FE) for 2005-2006. The V8 came in non-VVTi in '00-'04 with 4spd trans, but added VVTi in '05-'06 trucks with a 5spd trans, with extra emissions via secondary air injection pump ("SAIP" / "SAIS") which eventually dies (bypass kit info here, DIY kit here). That extra emissions stuff is one purchase consideration, it's expensive to replace if you're in an emissions-compliant state.
• Teardown videos for all 4 engines HERE if interesting!
• 2WD and 4WD was optional in all models. V8 only came w/automatic trans, V6 had a manual option, maybe interesting. Transmission swapping to add manual ... yes, it's possible, one or two did it, it's a massive pain in the ass and may cost you more than hunting down and buying a V6 manual truck.
• The '05-'06 trucks had a fully sealed transmission, no dipstick. Earlier years have dipsticks. Toyota originally said the sealed transmissions had "lifetime" fluid. Now they recommend flushing every 100k? 80k? I forget, you get the idea. Plenty here are running on original fluid after 200k+ miles. Best advice for service at any mileage: drain/fill a few times to incrementally add/replace fresh fluid. Don't bother with replacing metal filter.
• For our sanity, if you have a 1GT truck, go into your profile here and update your "Vehicle One-Line Description" to give its year, V8 or V6, 2WD or 4WD, and what cab type you have. This saves us from asking and helps us give accurate advice.
• 4WD trucks have ample grease zerks on the driveline and need to be lubed with moly-fortified NLGI 2 grease every 5k-10k miles unless you like clunks/jolts when braking and accelerating. Note the slip yoke's zerk has a special fill process. If you've got no history on your truck, this is one of the first things you'll want to do. 2WD trucks lack grease zerks on the factory driveline.
• If you're 4WD and you want to re-gear, your front gear ratio must match the rear gear ratio, plan to upgrade both.
• Also for 4WD trucks, Toyota recommends logging at least 10 miles per month in 4HI to keep things lubed, actuators firing, etc. Do it. 4WD is expensive to diagnose & fix. In case you don't know, DO NOT turn sharply on pavement in 4HI on a Tundra (Sequoia is AWD/Torsen, so it's OK).
• If you have a LSD (limited slip diff) in the rear, there should be an LSD sticker on the back of your rear diff/pumpkin. If you see one, be careful which product you use to drain/refill. DO NOT use synthetic oil! Search the forum or ask.
• ALWAYS test 4WD before purchase, 4WD parts are expensive. Throw it in 4HI while driving in a straight line to see it engage, all lights go solid, no beeps.
• If you want add cruise control to your truck, check out this thread.

MAINTENACE AND PARTS ... this is a big one

• DO yourself a favor, buy OEM (Toyota/Denso/Aisin/Advics brand) where possible. DO NOT buy from scAmazon or fleaBay, they're rife with counterfeit/knockoff parts as seen in posts here. A great way to discounted parts from Toyota direct is outlined here. RockAuto gives forum members 5% off. Summit Racing sends 10%-20% off coupons with their catalogs. Advance Auto Parts has 15%-25% coupons for online orders with in-store pickup. The latter stores don't sell OEM, but always sell LEGIT parts.
• Parts to ONLY buy OEM, else you *will* eventually kick your own ass later: LOWER BALLJOINTS (bigtime). O2 sensors. Starter. Coil packs. Fuel pump. Cam bolts & sleeves (also huge). Lower control arms (also huge). Too many ppl ignore lower balljoint warnings & found a front wheel stuffed under the truck. Don't be them. OEM price on LBJs is close to name brand aftermarket, be sure to buy fresh high-strength bolts (8 needed) when replacing! Some aftermarket parts exceptions HERE. But seriously, THE OEM LOWER BALLJOINT HYPE IS REAL, here's some proof: , , link, link, link, link, link, link, link and this thread for dozens more! If OEM cost is tough, maybe save 10% on an OEM recall kit?
• Toyota oil, fuel, & air filters are the best you can get for their specific engines. It's counterintuitive to my upbringing and hard for me to type (sorry, Wix!). They may not flow or filter the best for other engines, but Toyota invested ample $$ ensuring their filters are perfectly mated to their engines guaranteeing that historic reputation of mechanical longevity.

Suspension, wheel and tires ...

• If you're new to suspension, and the words folks use are intimidating, or you need help evaluating what you have/need, this series of replies may help you understand more.
• NO, you probably won't be cleanly tucking 35s on a 1GT w/o issues. Be prepared to drop a significant $$$ on a proper 5"-6" lift, tubbing your firewall, cutting/hammering pinch welds, mud flap delete, maybe wheel spacers, yet you'll still rub. Yes, it's possible to do (read here), it's just not cheap, and there ARE side effects. Be prepared to drop more than the insured value of your truck to do it right, and DO NOT use strut spacers!!!
• YES, 33s are very do-able w/minor rub. Specific suspension brands/situations to avoid appear later in this post. Do yourself a favor: Buy from reputable manufacturers: Bilstein, Toytec, Icon, Fox, ADS, Elka, Eibach, etc. i.e. 'quality' name brand. Many members here are tucking ~33s (285/70r17 or similar) w/minor rub at the pinch weld/mud flaps *IF* they follow alignment specs below. YOUR WHEEL CHOICE IS CRITICAL.
• MOREOVER, understand something: 2" of lift w/oversized tires is a significant lift! I have roughly 2¾" lift with my Toytec coilovers, and I'm running 275/70r17 tires (32.5") and my pre-teen kids have trouble getting in & out. I sit ~4" higher off the ground than stock. I'm 6'1" tall and need my OEM steps to get in comfortably. I firmly believe if you drive a road queen, do mild offroad, fire roads, etc. you'll be perfectly happy with a 1" - 1½" lift and upsize 1" on tires (265/70r17, i.e. 31.6" - 32").
• Speedos read high with oversized tires. 2000-2004 owners have an easy plug & play solution to fix it.
• We have members with no "real" lift, i.e. a basic strut spacer ("puck") for ~1½" of lift who clear 275/70r17 with mild to moderate rub. But, PSA: Avoid spacer lifts due to UCA/spring collision issues. FYI: Spacers lift 2x their height (¾" puck = 1½" lift).
• Wheel fitment (backspacing/offset info) ... backspacing/offset plays a HUGE role in whether or not you'll rub with larger-than-OEM tires. If you need help understanding what ballpark to play in, this is a good thread to read. Gist: Best fit to put you near the fender edge w/o rub on 8½" wide wheel is ~4¾" backspace, 9" wheel aim for ~4.5" backspace. Popular Tundra OEM 7½" wheels had 5" backspace, Tacoma OEM is not ideal at 5.5" backspace. With leveling, oversize 275/70r17 tires on 17x8.5" wheels @ 0 offset (i.e. 4.75" backspace) should only have minor rub.
  
• Wheel fitment (caliper rub): For trucks w/larger 13WL calipers, beware of caliper rub on 16" wheels, possibly not just the rim, but the caliper can rip off the wheel weights also! 13WL is std on 2003+
• Wheel fitment (from other Tundras): 2007-2022 Tundras use 5-lug wheels. In 2023, Tundras started using 6-lug axles again, but the hub bore is smaller (95mm on 3rd gen vs. 106mm on 1st gen), so they technically won't work unless you spend a couple hundo on custom-made spacers.
• Some other tire size considerations see HERE and more over HERE.
• Wheel fitment (from other Toyota models): Anything from PRE-2024 Tacomas, 4Runners, Land Cruiser, LX470 and GX models that are 6-lug will typically fit. Someone here is probably running it already, and pics of it are in the OEM wheels thread. Make sure the hub bore is 106.1mm on the donor wheels else you need hubcentric adapters.
• There are two basic types of lift: Adjustable and Static. "Static" is either non-adjustable, or it requires some disassembly to adjust (example: struts w/variable circlips, like Bilstein 5100). "Adjustable" is typically a coilover, which can be adjusted any time, on the fly, to truly dial-in height as needed. Obviously, after adjusting your suspension, go get re-aligned. Suspensions typically settle after install, you may want to wait a bit before alignment, or get realigned again later.
• Virtually every lift kit you see online is going to be geared towards DOUBLE CAB 4WD, its specific weight and geometry. DC 4WD (/Seqoia) is the heaviest of all 1st Gen trucks. If you have an AC or RC truck, and/or you are 2WD instead of 4WD, be forewarned, you'll get more lift than advertised on pre-packaged lifts! This is a painfully pre-purchase warning for any V6 and 2WD folks driving AC/RC trucks out there!
• Extras... At 1.5" of lift or higher, you'll want extended swaybar links, Suspension Maxx sells, to avoid travel limitations. As you approach 2.5" of lift with 1GT trucks, you're closing in on thresholds of OEM travel and should consider extras to compensate. Examples: You'll want new upper control arms (UCA) to more easily hit alignment numbers. At 3" and beyond, you may need to snug up your OEM CV boots or get ORS extended boots or similar to avoid grease-sling or ripping, and probably add bumpstops, etc. There are a lot of considerations - think about it, or ask questions in the forum if you need a sanity check!
• 1st Gen diff drops are a joke, unless ½° of angle is significant to you? Save your hard earned money.
• When buying new upper control arms, There are a few types, know what you're getting, read more here to help you decide.
• For rear lifting, try to avoid using blocks (esp. if towing, axle wrap is bad mmmkay), consider an AAL (add-a-leaf) kit to get an extra 0.75" - 2.0" lift instead (*if* you don't need your overload leaf!), or many members have found a new ATS "HD" leaf pack was a very wallet-friendly way to get a solid, no-brainer 1.5" - 2" lift, part# 90-221HD for 4WD, 90-287HD for 2WD and it includes an overload leaf. WARNING: The Icon 51100 add-a-leaf kit ONLY gives 1st Gen Tundras between 0.5" - 0.75" of lift IRL! The Wheeler's offroad kit is a better option for 1.5" (ish) of lift. NOTE: You should look into buying an LSPV relocation bracket unless you want a lesser braking experience after lifting.
• One OEM suspension upgrade Toyota offered for the 1GT was Bilstein, others got KYB. For "leveling" a truck and lifting up to 3" or more while keeping factory-ish ride, many people therefore opt for Bilstein. The Bilstein 5100s are a very popular choice because you can adjust the spring cup to different heights using circlips/notches to get more or less lift *if*using non-lifted springs. You could also get a bit deeper into the Bilstein line for more money, and go with the 5160 or 6110 line.
• If you choose the popular option of Bilstein 5100, you have two spring options: Stick with stock springs and adjust circlip notches up, or go with a lifted spring at bottom notch. Lifted springs may provide better ride, and some vendors will pre-assemble your strut w/springs for an upcharge, making it a bolt-in affair. Regardless what you choose, there are limitations! Like, to re-use factory springs, there are limits on which 5100 notch you can use (see chart here for OEM spring notch guidance). If you go with aftermarket lift springs, like from ARB/OME/Old Man Emu, Dobinsons, or Eibach, Bilstein says to stay at the 5100's bottom notch/circlip to avoid problems/damage. For a true-to-OEM-stock-replacement strut without lifting, the Bilstein 4600 is your way to go. Note: You can also use the Bilstein 4600 with aftermarket lifted springs, maybe save a buck!
• Guidance to pick the right lifted spring w/Bilstein 5100/4600: With OME (Old Man Emu, not 'OEM') springs, it can daunting which spring to pick, between the 2883, 2884, 2885, 2886, 2887. We have tons of user experiences and know what you can expect better than any vendor:
  • For OME springs you need these isolators and if your current struts aren't factory/OEM you'll probably need these tophats.
  • For AC/RC with 2WD, both V6 and V8, you'll get near-level with OME 2883. Don't do 2884 unless you plan a rear lift.
  • For AC/RC with 4WD, go 2883 for a sport rake, 2884 to get level, don't go with 2885 unless you plan a rear lift
  • For nearly all DC applications, 2883 for near-stock ½-¾" lift, 2884 for slight rake, level w/2885, if you plan 1-2" rear lift, 2887 is probably your choice.
  • With any suggestion given here, your lift may take a bit to settle at final height.
  • If you're AC/RC be forewarned: Nearly all who doubted the above were left squatted out back, thinking 2884 or 2885 was right for their AC/RC 2WD truck. It'd just not the case, and a lot of vendors don't know/bother to inform their customers, so heed the above.
• If you choose Bilstein 6112s for lifting, be aware their documentation has bad info for AC trucks. More info HERE. On AC V8/4WD, circlips at 6/4 should give 2 - 2¼" lift.
• Know many companies, like OME/Old Man Emu don't actually make kits for the 1st Gen Tundras, most kits are adapted from 4Runners and Tacomas therefore, depending on your cab type & drivetrain, you can really screw yourself w/too much lift, travel issues, or damage. It's especially true for AC/RC trucks - If a vendor says their 1st gen OME kit is good for 2"-3" of lift, that number is more for DC/4WD trucks, AC/RC 4WD owners can expect to exceed 3" lift ... and if AC/RC 2WD owners can expect 4" or more. Yes, 100% serious, we've seen it happen, folks here had to replace their brand new lift after. DC 4WD owners probably won't see this problem. DC 2WD owners may get more than advertised, but not nearly as bad as the RC/AC guys do, and you may not screw anything up, but be prepared. Note: OME is a great company. I suspect they're only doing this to avoid the DC/4WD and Sequoia owners from getting pissed if they didn't get a full 2.5"-3" from an OME lift kit.
• Alignment numbers after lifting: This is important, if you want a roadworthy driving experience without eating tires after your lift, there's a sweet spot for the 1GT that's been road-tested and proven. Specifically ask the shop to aim for the following, per our resident expert:
  • For 'normal' or 'mostly freeway': -0.3 camber, 2.6 - 2.8 caster, 0.1 - 0.2 total toe (0.05 - 0.10 per side).
  • For those who like to corner faster: -0.5 camber, 2.6 - 2.8 caster, 0.1 - 0.2 total toe (0.05 - 0.10 per side).
  • Basically, get that camber closer to -0.1 if you're mostly driving freeway, but aiming closer to -0.3 may help offset outside-edge tire wear.
  • IF you are running SPC upper control arms: Some shops may be unfamiliar with this product, it allows camber/caster to be set from both lower and upper control arm, versus OEM, which only allows setting from below. My advice? Consider pre-clocking your SPC uppers at "C" before going in for alignment, or tell the shop that's installing to clock at "C" instead of "D" so you can max out the caster later. Possibly the easiest way to get there would be to max out the cams with the LCA as far forward as possible (front cams pointing inward, rear cams pointed outward). Use the SPC balljoint slot to get things in the ballpark, lock down the balljoint, then fine-tune with the cams on the lower control arms. On mine, with my alignment already good, I found clocking the UBJ at "D" puts you in the OEM ballpark, "C" puts you close to the numbers above. When you get it home, make sure the UBJ shim is properly in its slot, then confirm the nut is torqued to spec (150ftlb)!
• This was said earlier, some lifts to avoid: Avoid Rancho struts, and maybe all of their stuff, the lower bushings on their 1GT truck kits blow out, fast. Avoid Rough Country kits. They're cheap as hell, and too many people have come here with damage or issues from the kits, which is unfortunate when you can pay a hundred or two more for a solid Bilstein 5100 kit.
• Other things to avoid for moderate offroading: Strut spacers --- talk with a pro before mixing spacers with a lift kit. Skip lifting blocks, add-a-leaf is a better option, while a new leaf spring pack is ideal. As mentioned above, the "HD" springs from ATS are well-proven by forum members. If using blocks or strut spacers, and even wheel spacers, aim for steel vs. alloy parts if possible.

Braking upgrades, brake performance issues...

• Nearly everything we know is linked HERE.

Audio, audio upgrades and cameras...

• First off: DON'T BE A FRIGGIN' DOUCHE! Don't be that asshole who cuts the factory wiring harnesses to install a new stereo. There are a ton of cheap plug-and-play adapter harnesses you can buy. Pony up the extra $10-20 for a quality adapter harness and don't cut your factory wiring.
• Use proper wiring. Either butt splice, crimp, or solder. Don't use wire nuts, electrical tape, scotchloks, quicktaps, and other BS, they're garbage. If you must tap a circuit, use Posi-Taps to avoid damaging wire sheaths.
• These trucks were fairly well-equipped for the era with three basic radio setups: (1) A JBL radio with external JBL amplifier, (2) a "premium" radio with external OEM amplifier, or (3) a standard radio with no amplifier. If you have the JBL radio, it should have the JBL logo silkscreened onto the radio's face and amp, JBL brands everything with their logo.
• Before you install an aftermarket head unit, you must identify whether your truck has an OEM amplifier, b/c you'll need to adapt or bypass it to avoid issues! Read this thread for info on factory amp location(s) and how to bypass it for aftermarket stereos. There are ways to retain the factory amp if you really want to, but ... go read that thread for why it's not ideal. To see what adapters you need (if you have an amp) check this post. Foor 2003+ drivers, you need a dash trim kit, there are options! To see what aftermarket radio other members used, read this thread. DISCLAIMER: Confirm fitment of any part numbers provided here by going to Crutchfield's or Metra's website before you commit to buy!
• If you're looking to stuff a sub in the rear of your truck ... RC trucks, you'll need to use a wedge box behind the seat (link), or an under-seat shallow sub. AC trucks, Q-Logic makes a dual 8" box that goes under the rear passenger seat (info). DC trucks, storage cubbies below rear seats can be used (link, more here). JL has a stealbox that stuffs in the center console for trucks w/captains chairs.
• For AC owners, your rear doors have ample room for a 6x9" speaker, if that's your desire. As someone who worked in the industry, I'd take a 6x9" over a 6" component any day, I've seen guys do some pretty amazing stuff w/6x9s.
• Steering wheel controls and adaptation... To answer all your Q's, check this thread!
• For AC/RC trucks, the metal bracket used for the door tweeters can be repurposed to install any number of aftermarket components, example here.
• Consider buying through Crutchfield, not only for the incredible technical support, but they ensure you'll have all the wiring adapters and install accessories you need to for the most-plug-and-play experience possible. Free phone support from audio enthusiasts. Don't hesitate to call and talk to a technical salesperson to lay out your system before buying! It's also free, and they're super knowledgeable, they'll guide you in the right direction. To boot, their pricing is inexpensive - doesn't always beat scAmazon, but you're guaranteed to get non-counterfeit, non-grey market stuff with full, no-hassle extended warranty and support, which Amazon can't offer.
• For an example camera install using an aftermarket head unit, check this post.

Lighting info ...

• Bumper/grille light bar options HERE.
• To retrofit OEM fog, may differ by bumper style:
  • Steel: https://www.tundras.com/posts/3873353
  • Plastic: https://www.tundras.com/posts/3861961
• If replacing headlights, always buy "CAPA Certified" units to avoid garbage. For higher-quality brands w/CAPA certified options, get DEPO orTYC. Akkon or EagleEyes are also OK.
• If you install LED headlights, it's common for your high beams & fogs to stop working. If you have this or always-on high beam indicator in the dash, add a plug-and-play resistor to at least one headlight. Problems were reported with LED tail/fog lights also, it's not just headlights. Some circuits need resistance LEDs won't deliver.
• Hyperflash problems are common after swapping LEDs into the turn signals. One solution is the Diode Dynamics flasher module (avoid scAmazon knock-offs, buy direct).
• There are H4 mini-projectors available for our trucks, but you must permanently modify your light housings, no oven-baking needed, just remove a hat-shaped chrome shroud inside, then install the mini-projector (detailed instructions). There are bake-in options for projectors. Check THIS REPLY for links to common upgrade options.
• For interior LEDs... a breakdown of interior light sizes is here. For climate control lighting updates, see here. Dash gauges for earlier 2000-2004 models with replaceable bulbs, check this. 2005+ dash gauges had on-board LEDs, it's major surgery o change colors. You can sand the rear of the guage face for white vs. green. REMEMBER: LED lights are polarized. If you install backwards, they won't light up! Test after install. If one fails to light, try popping out, rotate it 180º, reinstall, test.

Seating related info ...

• For tall people, you can get some added comfort using the SeatJacker product. Be careful of imitations. It's basically an adapter that kicks the front of the seat up. May or may not be useful for folks with power seats.
• Yes, people have swapped benches for captains chairs, and vice-versa. Yes, it's possible to add power seats into non-power-seat trucks, the harness to make it a mostly plug-and-play experience is still available from Toyota, for now. Sequoia seats will bolt into the DC, not sure about other trucks, there's a post on that (link)
• Heated seats, available in the DC (I've never seen in AC, anyone know if it's a thing?), is also possible to add-on, but there's a myriad of aftermarket kits you could buy also, anyway the instructions are here. The switching is normally done at the center console, but I think I saw there the switches may've become unobtanium recently. Best bet may be finding a donor truck at the junkyard with all the wiring and seat stuff intact.
  
• Seat covers... OEM covers and foams are still available from Toyota but you're looking at $1,000-1,600/seat to do all foams and covers, or $700-900 per seat for OEM covers. There's no "great" aftermarket OEM-quality option out there, Richmond Auto Upholstery, US Auto Upholstery and ther places that sell on eBay are putting out an inferior product. For nice leathers, most go with Katzkin, or just take their vehicle to an upholstery shop, which can be cost effective depending where you are. For cheap cloth covers on your beater, (check this post), Coverking, Covercraft, and Carhartt are two semi-reasonable priced options depending which product you pick.
• Someone has replaced their rear DC seating with Sequoia captains chairs, interesting mod, check that here. No clue if the Sequoia captains chairs will bolt up into the Tundra, but it's highly probably.

Electrical stuff ... and keys

• Yes, adding factory power locks and power windows into a non-power truck is 100% possible. Ideally, get pre-loaded donor doors with door harness intact and door cards that match in color, and gut them for parts, or swap doors. It's plug and play.
• No, adding a full DC one-piece sliding rear window is not a bolt-in experience for AC and RC owners, the DC cab rear is different from the AC/RC cab. It may be possible to install the 3pc AC slider into a RC, since the cabs are similar dimensionally, but I haven't seen anyone try it yet.
• A majority of these trucks came with keyless entry (at least). If you're having OEM or aftermarket alarm problems or and/or you're considering adding an aftermarket alarm, first check if you an OEM unit (more info in next bullets), then consult this alarm flowchart to decide if it's necessary. Aftermarket alarms can be the devil, a problem waiting to happen. It doesn't matter how good the brand, most start to fail or glitch within 10-15 years. I used to install them for a living (Avital, Clifford FWIW) ... been there, done that. It's even worse with modern offerings, take this advice: Stick with OEM, if you can make it work.
• For OEM keyless/security, earlier trucks used Toyota's RS3000 alarm/keyless system, which had a limit of 4 simultaneously programmed remotes, and providing no warnings if you wanted to program a 5th fob. Later models used the RS3200 system. RS3000 is a bitch to program. RS3200 is much easier, but some Double Cab and potentially Sequoia used immobilizer keys, and a different programming process than you may find elsewhere online. RS3000 and RS3200 remotes ARE NOT interchangeable. Manuals for the RS3000 and RS3200 systems can be found here, and the 'special' programming instructions for some Double Cab found here. Always enter programming mode to 'clear' all previously programmed remotes before trying to add new ones, so you don't hit the 4 remote control limit! You can absolutely program new remotes on your own, there's a thread about RS3000 units here (since it's so difficult but read the whole thread), RS3200 programming is here.
• RS3000 remotes have an identified issue where the metal contact under the bottom will scrape through the PCB and produce weird results, including shorter range (more info). Just be aware of this. If you're having issues and battery doesn't solve it, crack open the transmitter and inspect the PCB.
• RS3200 remotes can flake out with time, here is how to refurbish/validate one.
• Some dealers, especially in the southwest, gratuitously installed aftermarket alarms from a company named "KARR" at a nice hefty 4-digit upcharge, even when vehicles had the OEM alarm/keyless system installed. These are a constant source of electrical woes for people and were often hackishly installed. The boxes for them are typically found zip-tied up under the steering column area, or shoved into kick panels
• AC/RC trucks don't use transponder/chipped keys (immobilizer). Some later-model DC and Sequoias do. Just something to be aware of if you need to swap keys or can't start the truck.
• These trucks usually don't have a ton of other electrical issues. Hidden corrosion inside the battery/alt cables happens. Sometimes, a couple thousand miles after timing belt changes, people will have startup issues because the crank position sensor wasn't properly tucked away and gets rubbed by a belt (pic), correct routing info here. There's also a similar problem with camshaft position sensor under the cam cover, where the belt will rub through (pics). There's the rodent issues mentioned earlier. Occasionally, water trails down harnesses into the ECM behind the glovebox (pics, pics), or the in-dash fusebox (pics & pics & pics) it happens a LOT. Many drain/vampire issues trace back to aftermarket add-ons whether the owner knows they exist or not - alarms as mentioned earlier, brake controllers, poorly installed trailer receptacles, those are some big ones.

Paint and paint correction...

• Two diff't kinds of paint from the factory: Two-stage (base color + clearcoat), and single-stage (clear w/color mixed in). If your paint is METALLIC, you're two-stage, w/clearcoat topping. If your paint is NON-METALLIC - i.e. no metal flakes/glitter, and the paint is original, it's often single-stage. All white trucks were single stage, sometimes black trucks too. Why is it important?
• Single-stage paint is old tech. It like to get chalky if not cared for. Once chalky, it's super easy to restore to full shine with elbow grease with light polish and a quality foam correction pad. You usually do not need buffing compound, and wax won't remove the haze. My white truck had ultra-chalky paint; Griot's orange correcting pads w/Meguair's Ultimate Polish using a random orbit polisher (6") worked wonders. If your paint is non-metallic and chalky, to know whether it'll clean up, a quick & easy test is to put a lil' buffing compound on your fingertip, gently work it in a small, 1" circle using light-to-medium pressure over an inconspicuous, hazy area for 30 seconds, then buff off with a clean towel. What you'll see after is what you can expect with a polishing wheel and quality polish. If you need help w/this, make a thread showing pics. The links in my signature show what's possible, but I think this mid-polish pic says it all (see my shiny test area above the passenger door handle).
• Two-stage paints suffer from clearcoat fail, especially w/metallic green or red, mostly on horizontal surfaces: Hood, roof, tops of the doors & fenders, and fender flares. Only true fix is a strategic re-spray. Many videos on YouTube sgiw how to sand down to base color and use a 2-part clearcoat like SprayMax 2K to re-clear. 2 Two things to say here: 2-part clearcoats *will* kill you w/o proper protection - it's not a joke! - and second, your chances are slim of getting it right, long-lasting clearcoat that won't flake or chip, but it's do-able with proper prep & application.

Camper shells...

• Almost all you need to know is here.

 

Stupid shit you don't want to do to a 1st Gen...

• Don't be tempted by cheap lifts. Brands like Rancho, Rough Country (not to be confused w/Tuff Country) triggered threads by people who had issues with and/or damaged their truck using those brands. It's not worth the 10%-30% savings, considering you'll pay more than that on consequences.
• Get those thoughts of "big lift on 35s" out of your head. Well, unless you have ample $$ to spend. These trucks are lift-limited. If you're aiming for more than 3" of lift, and you don't have at least $4k-6k to spend on the RCD or Tuff Country 6" lift kit or similar (NB: Avoid their 5.5" kit, knuckle spacers are a joke), this is probably not the truck for you. Consider Ford, Dodge, or GM? More info in the 'Suspension' section above. Most folks successfully rolling 35s here invested a chunk of cash, and needed to cut/hammer/weld to get there safely/correctly.
• Skip "cold" air intakes and aftermarket cold air/oiled filter crap. You know, the stuff K&N, AEM, others sell. Dyno testing on popular YouTube channels proved Toyota's OEM filter produces more overall power than aftermarket kits, while also filtering particulate more aggressively, keeping the engine cleaner. Those kits may work on other engines, but Toyota really dialed things in on our trucks to eek every last bit out. Those kits may make more growl, feel more torque-y, but dyno charts tell a different story. The only dependable way to squeeze out power or pep semi-inexpensively w/o forced-induction is with long-tube headers, or re-gearing.
• Use OEM parts ... i.e. Toyota / AISIN / Denso / Advics brands. Especially with electronic parts only order Denso/Toyota, esp. if tough to replace (starter, fuel pump), go OEM. ALWAYS order OEM lower balljoints!!! (and get fresh LBJ bolts), you saw the pics linked above, right? Toyota's OEM filters for air and oil are actually incredible, contrary to some may expect. Toyota designed their air and oil filters with longevity of their engines in mind, you do not need (and probably shouldn't) use aftermarket filters regardless how much you love Wix (my favorite) or other brands. Speaking of filters, believe me when I tell you it's almost never, ever the fuel filter causing your starting/running issue. Don't bother busting your knuckles swapping it out if you're certain yours is OEM original. 2005-2006 trucks don't have a filter outside the tank. So far we've seen one person who found the fuel filter was their problem ... and the clogged filter on their truck was an aftermarket parts store brand made in Israel, not Toyota OEM. Their symptoms were the engine bogging down under lead, which is also something that can happen with fouled plugs and a single bad coil pack.
• Finally, DO NOT buy auto parts via scAmazon, fleaBay, WallyMart! Or any other vendor who doesn't verify or control their supply chain (Sears, NewEgg, Kmart also allow 3rd parties to sell). These vendors don't hold their own inventory and/or fail to adequately monitor incoming inventory for fraud, thus they've become persistent counterfeit/grey market part sources. Since they're failing to correct this, legislative efforts like the INFORM ACT and SHOP SAFE act are trying to force businesses into monitoring and compliance, but INFORM only went live mid-2023 and hasn't done much obvious stuff yet. Multiple members here and on the sister site (TacomaWorld) have gotten very authentic-looking, yet very fake parts from scAmazon and fleaBay, especially electronics like coil packs and spark plugs. Buy from a brick-and-mortar, dealership, or major reputable parts vendor like RockAuto, Summit Racing, or similar.

Pricing...

• Differs region-to-region. Prices in the PACNW and California run higher, like $15k - $25k range. Trucks with solid frames and 300k+ miles outside of PACNW can be had as cheap as $3k in comparison.
• Outside PACNW and Cali, in our post-pandemic-era used value hike in late 2022, well-equipped non-base-model trucks w/100k-200k miles ran $9k - $12k if 2WD, $10k - $16k for 4WD. Obviously, some pay premiums if fully loaded, some pristine garage queens w/sub-50k miles sold on Bring A Trailer have sold in the mid-upper $30k range.
• In my area (Atlanta), I often see Georgia-native trucks sub-$12k w/less than 200k miles. There's too many trucks out there with clean frames to waste time on anything rusted up already, it may take a while to source and require flying to pickup, but it's worth the peace of mind.
• If your seller has no proof of timing belt and water pump replacement within the last 100k/10yrs, that's ~$1k in parts and labor to have it done right, with OEM parts. Factor it into your purchase cost, use it for a haggling tool.
• Be wary of small dealers and internet auctions. A handful of people got burned there and posted their horror stories here. Do your own due diligence before considering purchase. CarFax is a viable option to verify where a vehicle was registered, telling 100% if it lived in salty areas. But remember, it's a very popular adventure and work vehicle, some jobs and adventures involve driving on salty roads.

After you buy the truck (or sometimes before):

• Register for an account at the Toyota Owner's website: https://www.toyota.com/owners
• Plug your VIN number in and assign it to your account so you can check for open recalls, register yourself as the person to call/email in the event of a recall, and see any dealer-performed service history, including any frame inspections, recall work, regular maintenance, etc. This could give you a good idea of what the truck's had done already, where it lived, how regular the maintenance may've been.
• Get to a baseline on critical 1st-Gen-Killer maintenance items that needed to be done:
  • Timing belt/water pump/pulleys/tensioner needs to be done every 9yrs/90k miles.
  • Radiator should be done every 125k-150k miles.
  • OEM lower ball joints should be done every 100k-125k miles *IF* they're OEM parts (aftermarket LBJ shouldn't be used, and should be replaced immediately).
• Get to a baseline on routine maintenance:
  • Change differential(s) fluid but know if your rear end is LSD or not before you swap fluids.
  • Change the oil (5w30), install a new OEM oil filter.
  • If you have 4WD, read the appropriate thread on here explaining how to fully lube your driveline with a moly-foritfied NLGI 2 grease like Valvoline Palladium #2 or Valvoline VV985 per Toyota. Confirm the system is working to shift into 4HI, then put the truck in Neutral and shift to 4LO. If it fails, see the diagnostic thread. Check to make sure your actuator rubber vent tube(s) intact, not broken, not rotten/cracked.
  • Check/refresh power steering fluid, note that it uses ATF and not traditional power steering fluid.
  • Full brake fluid flush, IF the fluid you see in the reservoir is dark.
  • Purge/refill with pink long life coolant especially if anything other than pink/red coolant is installed, drain at the radiator petcock and BOTH block drain valves on the sides of the block, just below the manifolds on either side of the engine, then flush or drain/fill with water once or twice to dilute whatever's left behind before refilling with the correct coolant.
  • Check/replace spark plugs with the specific brand/model# printed in the back of your owners manual, but DO NOT buy from scAmazon or fleaBay (counterfeits galore).
  • Update filters. Note that you DO NOT need to replace transmission filter and SHOULD NOT ever need to drop the transmission pan or oil pan in these trucks in most circumstances!
  • On those filter, not even kidding: Stick with OEM filters, Toyota has specifically lenient flow characteristics which mate perfectly with their vehicles: OEM oil filter. OEM air filter. For 2000-2004 trucks only, consider replacing with OEM fuel filter even though it's a PITFA.
  • Some people will do at least one drain & fill on the transmission with the correct fluid for your year (2000-02 takes DEXIII, 2003-04 takes Type T-IV, 2005-06 takes Type WS). Yes, there is an urban legend about "never servicing a transmission with unknown history", and it should be taken with a grain of salt - stick to drain/fill only, and don't use any pressurized system to push fluid thru your truck, and you'll be fine. 2000-2002 years specifically will have the transmission grenade due to weak planetary gear before a fluid flush would ever kill it.
  • Check the brakes, brake adjustment. Front pads, check for even thickness on both pads. Advics made the OEM brake pads, their kit contains everything you need to overhaul. Verify the parking brake cable is intact, correctly tensioned, and functioning fully, as it's what keeps the rear brakes auto-adjusted properly and significantly firms up the braking experience. Check the rear shoes, and know how to use the parking brake or star adjuster to set the shoes, 3 out of 4 times when someone has shitty, sloppy, mushy brake pedal it's because (A) the rear brakes aren't adjusted or the auto-adjust isn't working, or (B) someone failed to bleed the LSPV (load sensing proportioning valve) and there's air trapped in the system at that valve which is preventing the rears from engaging correctly. There's a sticky thread to deal with this topic.
  • Battery stuff: Big one here. Make sure the terminals are clean. Use dielectric grease and install felt terminal washers. Make sure your battery terminals are tight, firm, not cracked or broken. Seriously, go to the local auto parts store and have your battery professionally tested. Understand something: Just because your battery shows 12v-14v doesn't mean it's OK, battiers work because of VOLTAGE and AMPERAGE. You can have a battery with 14v and it still won't start your truck if it doesn't have at least 200-300 cold cranking amps (CCA). At least half our no-start issues are, stupidly, due to failed battery. Some of those batteries were less than 6mos old, and people made the really stupid mistake of changing the starter without getting the battery tested first. Repeated draining of your battery WILL kill it.
  • Baseline on suspension: Check the swaybar link bushings. Check the struts and their lower mount bushings. Look for previous owner fuckery, like strut spacers. Check all bellows/boots and clamps on steering. Check the CV axle inner/outer boots if you're 4WD. Check upper control arm bushings. Check for lower control arm bushings (check for play). Confirm the lower ball joints aren't aftermarket (one clue: If LBJ has grease zerks, it's not OEM), and they aren't dry, boot intact, no play. Check the upper balljoint similarly. Check rear leaf packs: All leafs are unbroken, bumpstops are present, and there's a round shim at the tip of each leaf to separate them from the leaf above. Check steering rack bushings, noting there will be some play with rubber bushings, it's the nature of the beast (supple/quiet, while polyurethane is hard/noisy).
• Fix and check for known issues. Like ...
  • The dreaded cowl leak problem. See the Definitive Leak Thread for more info.
  • 2WD owners: Get under your truck and look up thru the ovular holes in the crossmember the transmission mounts to. confirm there are 4 bolts, no empty holes where the transmission mounts to that crossbar. If there are, see the TSB in this very reply (see section below) for more info on part numbers and check the crossmember for hairline cracks! Use blue threadlock when installing replacement bolts.
  • Valve cover leaks - notorious issue. Info on part numbers is on this page, search for the word "gaskets". This will soak everything on the bottom half of the engine, and mimick rear main seal leaks, power steering leaks, etc. Look all the way around the valve covers for old oil, clean it off, and keep an eye for new leaks.

Recalls, TSBs, and annoyances - there are quite a few, here are some big ones that generate threads

• Parts availability: Toyota has discontinued some OEM parts, we've watched some popular ones get the axe just within the last year or two. There are other parts, like a specific "unicorn" brake master cylinder that cost a freaking $1000, and a booster that's also been discontinued. Again, there's a sticky thread for ordering OEM parts. There are also some reputable rebuild kits for serviceable parts that'll help you stick w/OEM.
• Frame recall/replacement is available on earlier model trucks, check this for specifics on eligibility before you think about buying that rusty-framed truck you saw.
• Lower balljoints: Toyota had a recall for some models, but here is a dire warning to heed: Always replace lower ball joints w/OEM (and use fresh bolts). The LBJ on first gens is a major high-stress point; Toyota over-engineered their recall LBJs to compensate, 3rd party aftermarket doesn't bother. You will find yourself in the hall of shame. This even goes for Moog, NAPA, AC Delco brand who had LBJ recalls! Note: Moog outsources many parts nowadays, the failed LBJs for 1st gen Tundra/Sequoia made 4/2020-5/2021 with Moog/NAPA/AC Delco branding had 12% failure rate (link to NHTSA).
• Driveline "clunks" when stopping and going: For 4WD trucks, you probably aren't lubing your driveline every 5k-10k miles as needed, see this reply (PS - this zerk requires special attention, see reply #4). For later-year 2WD trucks, there's a TSB out, the tranny crossmember can crack over time, then bolts loosen & fall out. Typical symptoms are clunks when turning, stopping, going. There's a specific TSB for the 2WD tranny mount problem, but it calls for replacing the crossmember, which many think is overkill unless clearly cracked (example here). If not cracked, retightening with a non-permanent thread sealer has worked.
• Touchy, jumpy, jerky, sensitive gas pedal / throttle: on DBW (drive by wire) trucks, the gas pedal can be reprogrammed. More info here, but read the full post before you get started. Some members found their gas pedal was far too sensitive from the factory. Some find there's an initial "dead" spot then the gas pedal surges dangerously once the pedal is 1/8 - 1/3 depressed. Some members chose products like Pedal Commander to "Fix" the problem, two (three?) members had scary stories to tell with that product, one with unfortunate results, it's probably best not to use products like that when you can fix your throttle. Use that link for info on properly cleaning your throttle body, and re-programming the gas pedal.
• Late shifts during acceleration/lazy gear changes: Yes, if this one got your attention, you're not alone, others have noticed also. When the transmission is cold or the vehicle is parked/off in the parking lot, a plethora of members have commented about a lazy shift from 2nd->3rd or 3rd->4th gears. Applying gas usually bounces it up a gear. This is not a sign of transmission failure, it's just a quirk seen in (at least) the later model 5spd auto 1st Gen trucks.
• Tire Pressure (TPMS) problems: This thread should help!
• ABS engagement: A common complaint we hear on here is about ABS engagement. Sometimes it's just the sensors are coated in crap (rear ones) because seals blew out, or aftermarket ABS sensors were used, or the ABS sensors aren't mounted squarely, their alignment is critical. If you find all of yours are OK, check this thread out for info on how to dial-in your sensors AND fix a long-running ABS-engagement-at-slow-speeds problem.
• Cracked fuel filler neck TSB for 2003-2004 trucks. See here. Causes P0441, P0442, P0446 codes. But also check the 'RODENTS' section two bullet points down for another possible cause.
• 2000-2006 serpentine drive belt accessory squeal. Noise usually starts happening during cold starts, see here.
• Steering wheel / horn / airbag problems. Horn not working? Airbag light on, cruise not working? Before you buy a clockspring, read this, several people solved what they thought was a bad clock spring with that specific fix. If you do need a new clockspring, it's integral to the safety restraint system, don't cheap out and buy generic from scAmazon or fleaBay. Ideally, replace it with OEM.
• Steering excessive play / rattling / dead spots, read this
• Door rattles and closing problems: For rattling doors see here for a possible easy fix. On front doors, verify your door alignment; does lifting and closing solve your problem? If yes, check your hinges/bushings in the hinges.
• RODENTS: Lots of plastics, wire sheaths, etc. in these trucks use soy-based plastics. If you have rodents nearby, or you park outdoors regularly, it's not uncommon for them to crawl in the opening under the intake manifold, where the starter & knock sensors live, and chew up the wiring (no start, knock sensor circuit codes). Likewise, they love nesting on top of the gas tank, and they'll chew up both the wiring like this, killing the pump (no start), and chewing up the tank tubes/plastics like this (EVAP codes, EVAP small leak, EVAP large leak). They'll chew through the gas filler neck, which will also throw EVAP codes, like this. It's common enough we can share exact photos of it, and there are more where those came from.
• Water leaks, from rain, car wash, or otherwise: Check this thread for the common ones you may find, the cowl leak into the passenger side is hugely common and very easy to fix.
• Coolant leaks: Common sources follow
  • At/around the thermostat housing. Check this out, and alternately see this post is for leaks at t-stat housing/inlet neck.
  • The rear-to-front coolant bypass tube along bank 2 under the intake (video fix).
  • The coolant bypass housing between banks at the rear of the block (pics/info).
  • This reply contains links to three other off-brand/odbball leak cases.
  • For radiator leaks, this is one example of a tiny one - always replace with Denso brand radiator, and know different cab types use different sizes, careful where you order, scAmazon especially tends to deliver damaged products often (RockAuto has a spotless record with forum members). Proactive radiator replacement is wise. The transmission line routes through the bottom of the radiator ... go look up "pink milkshake", it happens in these trucks.
  • Here's a list of all things to check if you're losing coolant mysteriously, but you're not seeing white smoke/smelling sweet exhaust out of the tail pipe.
• Cracked exhaust manifolds: Common in the earlier model 1GT, lends to ticks, rattles, etc.
• Strange rattle noises at back of engine, like marbles rolling around: Several people here and at other forums have found this issue where they describe the sound as loose marbles banging around. Then found their flex plate was cracked in multiple places. Ticking timebomb. Check it out and another one with videos.
• Oil leaks: Two most common causes: Valve cover gaskets and cam seals - this is especially true on low-mile trucks, valve cover gaskets will shrink, harden, crack over time. If you see oil leaks reaching the oil pan, running down the dipstick support, on the heat shield flanges above the manifold, it's probably the valve covers - check the torque on the bolts first to ensure they're in spec, but be prepared to replace the valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube gaskets (see parts and process listed here). If it's leaking down the front of the block, with oil showing either side of the harmonic balancer (big center pulley) or behind the A/C compressor, it's probably your cam seals. Cam seal replacement is $$ and best done w/timing belt, however, ATP's AT-205 will rejuvenate the seals safely without over-swelling or causing collateral damage you'll need to fix later. Of course, the oil pain *does* sometimes leak, but it's pretty unusual, unless someone had it off for some reason.
• Noise transfer to cab, ticking etc. - Steering shaft seal tends to blow out, see here. Ticking-wise, the injectors are pretty damn noisy on these trucks, and many complain about it. The ticking sound can be intermittent depending whether the engine is warm or cold.
• Brake issues: Most of what you need to know for brake overhaul is here. Know this: Improper rear brake adjustment causes a lot of issues, including shudders, shimmies, vibrations, see here for details on how to dial in the rear. If rears are functioning properly, setting the parking brake firmly and releasing 4-5 times in a row should fully dial in the rear drums on the earlier models, though someone mentioned on here, it'll only audo-adjust by braking hard in reverse on the later models? Not sure.
• E-Brake dash always on: Wear on the parking brake pedal shaft and pin may cause the parking brake light to stay on, more info here.
• Brake lights always on: Did you find plastic disc pieces in your floor and brake lights are on? Info here and the part you'll need is 90541-06036.
• Driveline vibrations. Believe it or not, are not normally caused by the carrier bearing or U-joints. Avoid trying to replace the carrier bearing first. Finding the correct carrier bearing can be a bear, and most people find it IS NOT their problem. It's normal for the carrier bearing to have play. Most common causes end up being: Lifting without correcting drive line angles, rear brake adjustment is off, tire cupping, wheels out of balance, driveshaft balance, never-greased driveline (4WD only), cracked or lost bolts in transmission crossmember (2WD only, see TSB above). Check those places first, but also post in the general forum before you replace the carrier to get ideas for other things first. Consult a shop that specializes in driveshaft work.
• Dash squeaks: Squeaky creaky dashboard, noisy dashboard, check this thread.
• Low oil pressure gauge (00-02 Tundra / 01-04 Sequoia): There's a TSB out to address the situation with the oil pressure gauge reading low in these years. Check to see if your VIN applies by reading the TSB here but before you replace the sensor, read this note too.
• Secondary air injection P2445 code: For '05-'06 Tundras, there's a TSB for trucks throwing P2445 code for SAIP / SAIS when temperatures are exceptionally cold. The TSB document can be viewed here to see if it's applicable to your truck.
• Cat inefficiency codes P0420 and P0430: Strong chance it's not your cats. Read why HERE.
• Beware aftermarket cats: Especially ones that are not specifically CARB-compliant. Members over the years experienced recurring cases of check engine lights after installing aftermarket cats (i.e. cat inefficiency codes P0420 / P0430, see bullet above!). If you cannot afford OEM cats, or they're NLA for your 1st gen Tundra, some brands members reported working w/o throwing codes are: Walker, Magnaflow, and Summit Racing's house brand. Really, the best way to diminish risk of throwing codes with new cats is: Choose a CARB compliant product, use a brand others found to work, DO NOT use 'generic fit' products, ensure all flanges and O2 sensors are fully tight with gaskets (where required), and don't trust your local exhaust shop to know about these quirks.
• P1127 (ETCS): Commonly caused by water entering from the firewall and/or A-pillar and/or windshield and corroding the connector under the dash. Check the links on this page, starting at reply #4
• Sloppy shift lever OR truck doesn't shift into gear but the lever moves: Here's your thread but you may also want to see this commentary.
• Broken shift lever: This was stupidly common in the earlier trucks, to the point there surely must be a TSB on it. If your shift lever is super sloppy but it's not the problem above, your shift lever base plate may've snapped off. Info on this problem and part numbers to fix info are linked here. Some 2000-2001 owners here are on their 2nd repair at this point... seems like a design flaw!
• Shift lever overdrive issue: Truck won't shift into/randomly shifting into OD? Overdrive light blinking? See this, wiring likes to rub thru where it exits the lever handle, into the column.
• Starting problems: If your truck won't start, or stutters, it's VIRTUALLY NEVER the fuel filter, as mentioned above. It's also typically NOT the starter, and also typically NOT the fuel pump. There's a wild array of other potential causes. If you recently had the timing belt done, check your crankshaft position sensor wiring harness - it's common for the loom to be reinstalled wrong, so it flops out and gets cut by the serpentine belt. Don't use aftermarket or "universal" relays. Make a new thread, honestly. We see 'no start' issues often. If the truck won't turn over, start by checking your cables for tightness and corrosion, check the starter relay (jumper power to the starter at the socket!), look for an aftermarket alarm, and if you have a double cab or sequoia, make sure there are no immobilizer codes. If the truck does turn over, best next-step is to figure out if it's an ignition/spark problem or a fuel delivery/electrical problem. You can do that by getting a can of starter fluid ("ether") from the parts store and shooting it into the throttle body. If the truck starts, you have either an electrical problem or a fuel delivery problem - and it's important to say: It's rarely the fuel pump!! (unless you previously installed a store brand pump) Instead, it's more likely an issue with the crank position sensor, fuel resistor, ECU, or similar. Start a new thread on the 1st gen forum and someone will try to help you narrow it down.
• That's most of the big ones... maybe more to add later.

All that said ... come hang out with us on the 1st Gen forum. We're absolutely freaking nuts.

​

 

Just the rubber. 17 years of heat, weight and oxidation. They probably would have lasted longer without my mods, or been relatively undetectable as beginning to fail. No obvious failure, they are just cracked and sagging. Only one alerted me with noise.

 

Solid work @shifty`
Looks Sticky worthy to me.

 

@shifty` for president. This is impressive!

 

Mag Dump of Intel !

 

TL;DR


Kidding! Tanks @shifty`!


@ColoradoTJ can we sticky this?

 

THANK YOU shifty. SOLID post as usual.

 

Wow that was a great read. Don’t have a 1st gen Tundra, but applies to my 1st gen Sequoia. Thanks for the efforts and please sticky.

 

What a pain!

 

Thanks @shifty`

 

What is everyone using for cab mount bushings? Energy Suspension is the Tacoma go-to but I don't see any on their website.

Great post @shifty`

 

Check this thread for 4pg of @Jack McCarthy's ordeal: https://www.tundras.com/threads/pickup-bed-lean…bad-leaf-bushing-shock.107039/

I'll add it above, along with stubbing in some seat swap info, to go with the headlights/lighting section I added this AM.

Also, editing this reply to add the following engine teardown videos, which I'll link up above, in the 1st reply, for reference

2000-2004 V6 (5VZ-FE / non-VVTi)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ynolAwrRTmo​

2005-2006 V6 (1GR-FE / VVTi)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSA9ivdJM6g​

2000-2004 V8 (2UZ-FE / non-VVTi)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRlcN6vRHhg​

2005-2005 V8 (2UZ-FE / VVTi)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99hQ8AowTig​

 

I would think OEM would be best. It's what I went with.

 

Thank you for the comprehensive write up Shifty! You information is extremely valuable and helpful!

 

Nice work, Shifty!!

 

Fantastic write up @shifty` !

 

Nice write up, @shifty`!

Now where’s the table of contents? J/K

 

I would, I just couldn't figure out a good way to create jumps in a single post. I don't see a way to create anchors to jump to.

 

There isn't a way to do that that I'm aware of. The only way I can fathom how to do that would be to quote each section you want which will make a hyper link, then copy and paste the hyper link into a table of contents you edit into the first post.

You'd have to delete your post that you use to quote your op purely for aesthetics.. I'll give it a shot with this post.

See here for the first attempt.

And here for the second attempt

 

This makes the hyper links.

 

It may not work out so hot with such a short post.

 

Are you picking up what I'm trying to put down?

 

Yup, totally get it. I just wasn't sure how many sections there'd be, so it wasn't feasible. I've already added 3-4 sections in.

I'll dick around with HTML anchors later, that's ultimately what the forum is using to make reply-jumps like you just showed, not sure if their code would prevent HTML tags, since you can use stuff like that for XSS and RCE/CI attacks.

(nope, doesn't work)

 

Will 35's fit on my stock suspension???

 

What kind of oil yall using??? Asking for a fiend

 

Oem is really good. All you have to replace is the cushion if your hardware isn't like Jack's. I got the middle and the rears delivered for about $81 / per from a dealer who had them marked down about 30%. Make sure to shop dealers even out of state - the prices vary wildly. 32% off and free shipping is about as good as it gets. And the phone price is generally higher than the online price.