Coolant leak by trani? 1st gen 4.7

Hope that fixes your problem! And once you have free time, we need to hear more about your intake setup. TB spacer? Air intake tube?

 

Thanks knabors! The tb spacer & air intake were done by the previous owner along with the front bumper but i would have upgraded the same exact things so it was nice already having it done. Unfortunately I’ve never driven one without a cold air intake so I can’t speak for the difference it makes.

Everything I have done to it since I bought it back in 2018 is
- Vinyl floor
- touch screen radio
- 12” sub
- topper and I installed rails on top that have a couple light pods on the end (not hooked up yet)
- hi-lift mounted on the front bumper
- aftermarket light pods on front bumper
- new grill(not to happy with the one I have)
- blacked out some of the silver trim
- 2.5” leveling kit.
- Level 8 17x8, -10
- Pirelli scorpion mtr’s (they rub just a little)
- 1 1/2 supreme wheel spacers
- weather tech plastic on the hoods and the windows (it helps for the front windows but is only for looks in the back lol)
- Gibson exhaust manifold

and small things here and there. If you want any pics of anything lmk. It was my work truck for painting but I’m switching jobs so i don’t have to worry about getting it that dirty anymore and I can upgrade it the way ive always wanted to. I would have upgraded it while I used it for work but how many painters do you see roll up in somthing that looks like it belongs in the mountains? Lol

 

Also no local auto part stores had the gaskets I needed so I will give an update on the coolant leak tomorrow

 

If you had Toyota coolant in there and mixed it with regular green/yellow you may want to consider a flush soon. From what I've heard organic acid coolants like Toyotas and regular coolant don't mix well. The Peak OET line of coolant for Toyota's is good stuff. I do think theres a type of valvoline coolant a lot of people on here use though that is cheaper. (I think that's the brand anyway)
Hope you get your leak sorted.

 

I agree NickB. I’ve been doing a lot of research and read about that. I was afraid to top it off at the start but the can said it’s meant to top off different kinds of coolant so I figured it should be okay for at least a week. I’m going to do a flush on mostly all the fluids very soon

 

There is also a rear water bypass with a gasket on each connection. I had a leak here on my 02 Sequoia. You can see it on this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfLpcsX5ajg

 

thank you for the info seth. If messing with thermostat housing doesn’t resolve the issue I will try this. I need to wait 24 hours for the RTV to set, flush the system and refill it then I’ll know for sure

 

I know this thread is a few years old, but I have a similar issue. I have a coolant leak coming from the bottom of a metal pipe on my driver's side. I believe it is the o-ring, and I simply need to pull the pipe up, replace the o-ring, and it should be fixed. I'll attach a couple of pictures, but any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Stealing from @bmf's rodent nesting picture, those little fuckers love nesting under the intake, you'll find your culprit is the hot water feed up to the heater valve control that opens water to the heater core behind the glovebox. Specifically what I'm circling here, below.

You've sadly given us zero fucking info about your year, cab type, drivetrain. There's a field IN HERE called "Vehicle One-Line Description" where you can put your truck info, like "2003 Tundra AC V8 2WD" if you're an Access Cab with 2WD. I only know your truck is in the 2000-2004 range, pre-VVTi, because the intake is silver. It'd be helpful if you could fill that info out so nobody ever has to guess details on your truck that may be critical to helping you out.

So I looked up a random 2002 V8 AC truck's VIN, not knowing what you've got. And came up with this parts diagram for the cooling system which makes it look lik that bypass joint (index# 16356) is one solid piece where the metal shaft is pressed in, and there is no gasket on top where your leak is. Proof of that is below, 2nd pic. There's a gasket where the bypass joint meets the block (index# 16356A), but that's below the joint. It almost seems as if, maybe, you could simply push that pipe down in to reseat it? Or maybe it's been compromised at this point. If the latter is true, you're buying a new bypass joint, which is this part, 16356-50120. You should also get the gasket for that side, which is this part, 16341-50020.

PS - since you need to remove the intake to replace this part, you may want to get some Rodent Tape to wrap all the wires inside the intake, in case rodents ever do get inside yours. It happens sometimes, even to people who keep theirs in the garage.

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PS - from the community's everything-you-need-to-know megathread, latest edit:

Coolant leaks: Common sources follow

• At/around the thermostat housing. Check this out, and alternately see this post is for leaks at t-stat housing/inlet neck.
• The rear-to-front coolant bypass tube along bank 2 under the intake (video fix).
• This reply contains links to three other off-brand/odbball leak cases.
• The coolant bypass housing between banks at the rear of the block (pics/info).
• For radiator leaks, this is one example of a tiny one - always replace with Denso brand radiator, and know different cab types use different sizes, careful where you order, scAmazon especially tends to deliver damaged products often (RockAuto has a spotless record with forum members). Proactive radiator replacement is wise. The transmission line routes through the bottom of the radiator ... go look up "pink milkshake", it happens in these trucks.
• Here's a list of all things to check if you're losing coolant mysteriously, but you're not seeing white smoke/smelling sweet exhaust out of the tail pipe.

 

Here’s some part numbers