Pickup bed lean…bad leaf bushing, shock?

Okay, I originally thought the leaf bushing was bad since I can feel/hear metal hitting metal on small potholes and the rubber of the bushing looks like it partially gone from peeping out.

Considering the bed is sitting up higher on the left by an inch or so, is it really that or just the bad shock I need to replace or both?

BTW, the shock tower is still there and it’s not like the shock isn’t attached.

 

Gas charged shocks add a touch of lift, like your palm pushing up a bit. That looks like more than shocks. I'm thinking both shocks and bushings.

 

BTW, that doesn't look like a bad parking spot, but I can add an inch to the uphill side based on the slope of the ground.

 

Dads ranger had a crooked bed, so after pulling the bed to change the fuel pump, i stacked some washers underneath to level it.

check your suspension first, the ranger had been in a collision at some point.

 

Another member here mentioned isolaters. I’m guessing I need those. Here’s some pics.

 

I've been hanging on to my stock DC shackles in the event I want the added height back as opposed to my TC drop shackles. I don't know if they are the same as n your AC, nor your timeframe. But they will be available for free in about a month if they help you.

 

You think my shackles are bad? I see the surface rust which I can clean up with a wire wheel. Is there a bushing to replace in those as well?

 

I don't know. But the frame side has bushings in them. Just a thought.

 

Now you have me thinking, maybe frame side doesn't have a bushing. I'm going to look at them

 

Thanks. I’ll take a closer look once I’m able to replace the shocks.

 

I found leaf bushings, but RA doesnt sell just the shackle bushings.

 

I’m not crazy yet.

 

I wonder if the leaf bushings will fit in the shackle.

 

I do not know. My guess is they are the same, but It's only a guess.

 

Shouldn’t this look symmetrical on both sides?

 

Left bushing has seen better times and right not far behind !

 

each leafspring needs 4. 2 for the front, and 2 for the back.

 

I thought it was one big piece. One for the front of the leaf and one for the back. That’s interesting.

Looks like a bigger issue trying to get the outer housing of the old one out. That’s going to be quite a bit of chisel work.

 

Bushings...2 Fnt Leaf, 4 Rear....2 for Leaf/2 for shackle

 

While mine are not too bad of shape, I have to consider many of our parts such as this will reach NLA sooner rather than later. Some of our rigs are in or approaching the 20 yr Antique age

 

I think we’ll be okay on aftermarket suspension parts that are as good or better. If you have to buy a wiring harness though you might be screwed unless you can get a used one. Same with the electronics.

 

It’s probably in the front not the rear.

Normally the lean to the left “Tacoma Lean” as the gas tank is on that side.

 

Question: Have you measured the wheel gap around all 4 wheels? Just curious if the passenger front gap is about 1-2" lower than the driver front, and the driver rear is about 1-2" higher than the passenger rear.

 

No it’s definitely the same in the front. I went out to check again and it appears the back of the left side of the cab is sagging a bit. Huh.

 

I guess next thing I'd do is measure the shock itself to see if one is extended more than the other.

If they've got more than 40-50k miles on them and/or you drive in wicked salt and crazy ass washboard roads, I'm guessing one is shot. Catastrophic shock failure will produce lean like that and isn't always externally visible.

 

Take that number and multiply by five.

 

Oh - one more question. How does the truck respond if you stand up and bounce on the passenger edge of the bumper, vs. the driver edge of the bumper?

 

It good in the front with the new Bilstein 4600s. I have them for the back but i need to finagle getting in there with a sawzall.

 

Because of the rust? Why not just use a decent nut splitter, split the nut, and spin it off? Project Farm covered some splitters out there. Personally, I have a decent one, but usually just take a dremel with 1" cutoff swheel, score the nut, and if it won't free up with a chisel, I'll hit the other side. Get new grade 8 poly-lock hardware if yours didn't come with it. (Start vid at 3m14s if it doesn't automatically)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWLxzuDMuhk#t=3m14s

 

The nut is still in good shape but very little space to try and break it free. It’s definitely rusted on there.

Haven’t thought about a dremel. Plan was to move the trailer cable harness so I can get in there with a 12” sawzall blade.