2002 Toyota Tundra *Crank no start*

Hey Toyota Folks,
I’ve been experiencing some interesting symptoms from my 02’ Tundra. This is my daily driver so been a frustrating process hoping someone may be able to shed some insight…

Started about a month ago with crank no start symptoms.
Here’s what I’ve done -

- Clean / replace spark plugs
- Charged battery
- Clean / replace one rod of fuel injectors (both bars replaced 50k ago)
- Replace Fuel pump + ECM relays
- Checked condition of all fuses
- New air filter
- MAF cleaned with MAF cleaner
- Replaced Crankshaft Sensor
- Assessed wiring to ensure no shorts or loose grounds
- Cleaned throttle body intake
- Tapped fuel tank + pump
- Traced and checked fuel lines for possible leaks
- Opened timing cover to ensure belt was not shredded

… Not entirely sure what did it but after sitting 2 weeks it began to run again after this.

Noticed a few days later it dropped well below freezing causing these symptoms to resurface. I went through the above process once more (cleaning and wire tracing) to no avail. Weather got warmer and it began to run again for a few days.

Drove fine to and from work and parked overnight. (been in the 50’s - 60’s) and it’s a crank no start… Again.
Been parked with no start for 2 days now. Battery is reading 12.5 volts. And I’ve run through cleaning everything for a third time now (not very dirty) but still no luck.

She will start for about 1 second after spraying with starter fluid.
I’m at a bit of a standstill.

I have also noticed after cranking with key in on position there’s a fairly loud humming noise coming from the throttle intake…
Wires read no shorts so a little confused what that humming is.

could it be fuel pump?
fuel filter?
something with the throttle?
(Fuel pump and filter replaced a little over 50k ago)

what would you all start looking at going forward?

any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

 

How so? You just proved your problem: No fuel delivery. Which can be a number of things, including damage to the crankshaft sensor harness specifically (from timing belt), damage to the fuel pump harness, bad fuel pump, any number of things.

Any codes at all?

Have you confirmed the crankshaft position harness was routed correctly after the most recent timing belt change, and hasn't gotten nicked by the serp belt? Crankshaft position sensor is integral to fuel flow, for safety, fuel ECU shuts down fuel pump in the event crankshaft position sensor isn't outputting signal. That harness getting nicked/damaged due to mis-routing is a common issue.

Have you confirmed you have fuel pressure to the rail, at all? Just to confirm you actually have fuel flow?

Have you confirmed the condition of the camshaft position sensor harness?

Have you had someone slap the fuel tank several times before/while turning over the engine? (This can sometimes get a couple xtra starts out of a failed fuel pump)

 

It's probably the fuel filter.

 

Harness for the crankshaft is intact and was installed properly after last timing belt change.
Likewise with the camshaft sensor.

Fuel pump harness doesn’t seem to have any damage although once traced to the tank I was only able to just reach my hand on top of the tank make sure nothing felt torn or loose.

Fuel pressure has been confirmed at the rail.

No check engine light or codes.

I have tried adding gas and tapping the tank multiple times.

 

Temp sensors?

 

I think that would stop turnover from happening, but I'm still really fuzzy on that one.

What fuel pressure did you see at the rail?

If you're seeing enough psi at the rail, this would suggest the pump is at least pressurizing the rail, which would also suggest the fuel pressure relay is fine, . I assume the fuel pressure regulator is OK in that case?

Maybe it's a case of bad ECU/ECM? Any cracks in the windshield, or you live in a rust belt area? From the 'megathread', some more items to check:

• These trucks usually don't have a ton of other electrical issues. Hidden corrosion inside the battery/alt cables happens. Sometimes, a couple thousand miles after timing belt changes, people will have startup issues because the crank position sensor wasn't properly tucked away and gets rubbed by a belt (pic). There's also a similar problem with camshaft position sensor under the cam cover, where the belt will rub through (pics). There's the rodent issues mentioned earlier. Occasionally, water leaks can send water down into the ECM behind the glovebox (pics), or into the fusebox inside the cab/dash (pics & pics & pics, it happens a LOT). Many drain/vampire issues trace back to aftermarket add-ons whether the owner knows they exist or not - alarms as mentioned earlier, brake controllers, poorly installed trailer receptacles, those are some big ones.

You said you replaced the fuel pump already, so you'd have seen rodent damage there. If you're 100% positive the EFI1 and other engine bay fuses are absolutely OK, and the grounds are good, I'd probably be focusing on the ECM next. I'm sure there's probably further diagnostics in the FSM, and there's a link to it in the megathread.

 

I've also been been wondering what the hum from the throttle body is. Can anybody comment on that? Would be nice if someone could verify if theirs also does it.

I have been having start issues as well(though mine will crank and start everytime: https://www.tundras.com/threads/starting-problem-help.140883/#post-3546940).

 

Just found these videos and am now thinking the throttle hum is normal. Can anyone confirm?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQenoiZdwjo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjrC5k0BOKg

 

PSI measures 40 at the rail so looks like that is within the 38 - 44 psi rated for the truck.

I have not checked the temp sensors although as mentioned in the thread I was under the assumption that it would not crank if temp sensors where faulty.

Going to start with replacing the fuel filter as I haven’t done this yet. Hoping to find the problem without having to replace fuel pump as this was done not too long ago.
Will continue to update the thread.
Thinking if the filter does not help maybe replace the crankshaft sensor?
Anyone have recommendations for steps to take instead of me somewhat blindly throwing parts at it?

Figured it may be worth mentioning this truck has 390k so many things have been replaced within the past 100k

 

Skip the fuel filter and for gods sake do not replace the crankshaft. Is it getting spark?

 

Sorry, was referring to Crankshaft position sensor. Not the actual crankshaft.
The truck does have spark; yes.
I tested all plugs with tester and I have spark in engine.

that’s why I haven’t dug into crankshaft sensor or gone too far down that route.

if you think to skip filter than what would you recommend?

 

You’ve got spark, air and fuel at the rails. When you spray starter fluid it lights and then dies. It’s not getting fuel from the injectors. The question now is why. Also the variable of temperature affecting wether it runs or not, could be real, could be coincidence. What brand of parts did you use for all these replacements? Non-OEM (Denso for most electrics) tend to behave poorly in these. Think of all those parts you replaced, and none of them fixed the problem. What’s left? Something that directly affects fuel delivery. Likely a sensor not sending the appropriate signal to the ecu, or some sort of ecu fault. Not having your vehicle in front of me to diagnose, it’s hard to say. Many who come on here and report your situation soak up a bunch of diagnostic advice and then disappear after what we assume was some sort of fix. They have not reported back often to inform the hive mind as to what the most common fix is. Most common possible are the temp sensors by the throttle body. Water intrusion into the ECU. Alarm system installed (and owner did not know about) and now has failed. Later models with immobilizer keys going bad. Bad grounds. Bad batteries. Emergency fuel shutoff being tripped and not reset. Crank or cam sensor wiring getting damaged. Using aftermarket parts to fix a problem, only to have the aftermarket parts not work from the start and confuse the whole trouble shooting process. It’s rarely the starter, the fuel pump or the fuel filter.

 

Is your frame rusty? I wonder if there could be a bad ground somewhere?

 

Yes I have recommmendations. Get the f’n FSM from the megathread. And get to work reading Toyota’s diagnostic steps right out of the service manual!

if you have 40psi to the rail as you indicated, it’s not the fuel filter. It’s also probably not the fuel pump unless you see the pressure dropping while cranking. If you have 40psi to the rail, and you can get it to stumble over with fluid proving you have spark, what does that tell you? It tells me your injectors aren’t squirting. Now figure out why. Have you checked if they’re getting power? I’ve never needed to test power to one before. Have you scoped inside the plug holes to see if there’s any gas, or tried to syringe some gas in the cylinders?

 

I agree, sometimes when people find the fix they discontinue the thread.
I will try not to do this.

I have not been able to trace the fuel pressure when cranking as I live alone very much so off grid in the mountains 30 miles from nearest stores.

I will try fuel filter as it is a cheap addition to diagnostic.

 

I won’t hold my breath, but we have seen at least one guy with aftermarket fuel filter clogged to hell. Looked like he ran high ethanol fuel, through a shitty aftermarket filter, and probably left it to sit for really long periods of time with that ethanol fuel just corroding everything.

Having consistent fuel pressure at the rail though…. Doesn’t support fuel filter from a logic/diagnostics perspective though.

 

It's never the fuel filter. I said that just to fuck with shifty. Well, except for that one time it was the fuel filter...

 

FTFY

 

Well I have a new fuel filter, looked like it was due for a change anyway.
Big surprise that wasn’t it… lol

I tried following the steps in this video for checking the fuel pump. Very helpful video.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VoerlgT8pck

I couldn’t really tell if the pump was running when jumped from positive terminal as I heard nothing.

Tried reversing the polarity for pump ground and hot. Noticed the engine actually felt closer to turning over after this (maybe it’s just wishful thinking) so thinking my next step maybe fuel pump?

I had read in another thread that somebody had a open ground to fuel pump causing crank no start.

Does anybody know where I could easily locate this ground and possible try grounding it to the frame to see if that was the issue?
This is kind of my last idea before replacing the fuel pump.

Maybe the humming noise is part of the problem? It’s noticeably loud. Stops when i disconnect the 4 prong motor control for throttle.

 

These are all parts you've previously replaced. I ask again, what brand are these parts?

 

Previous owner said 50k on fuel pump..
I called the shop and they said it’s been 3 years…
So definitely thinking it might be the pump.

Parts I personally changed :

- Mid grade spark plugs from O’riley (forget brand)
- Denso relays
- Denso crankshaft sensor
- OEM fuel injectors (x4)
- New air filter (not sure the brand)

Shop said it was replaced with a NAPA fuel pump. Agin apparently this as 3 years ago. Possibly it’s been over 100k

 

I wouldn't trust anything beyond OEM (Denso) in that location. General rule of thumb: If it takes more than 60-90 minutes to change, and OEM brand lasts 10-15 years or more, replace with OEM brand. Parts store brands DO NOT last anymore, beyond a 2-4 year window. One of many reasons so many have "Lifetime warranty" on them. They know nobody would buy otherwise, because they'll be right back in there within a couple years bitching about ass-tastic longevity. Don't buy your parts on scAmazon or fleaBay.

 

Never buy parts from Amazon, E-bay, or Walmart.

With other vehicles I’ve noticed the NAPA parts aren’t a terrible bet if you are on a budget.
Guess I’ll drop the tank and try to replace fuel pump.

 

Napa is typically OK as long as you're not buying the cheapest parts. Don't get the 'fleet' grade stuff. The premium stuff is OK. I'm running a NAPA "Gold" battery right now, it's been perfectly fine. But to the point about NAPA ... This is all you need to see, and you may not want to buy their stuff again. Oh - and don't forget, NAPA got sucked up into that massive lower balljoint failure recall a couple years back, along with Moog and at least one other store name brand.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtpQR_AaVp8​

 

Not sure if a 2002 has this module but check out posts 161-164…
https://www.tundras.com/threads/bad-engine-bearing.123300/page-6#post-3489391

 

Replaced the fuel pump over the weekend with a NAPA premium part and sure enough it fires right up.
Time to get back on the road.

Still curious as to the humming noise coming from the throttle intake. Perhaps I’ll start a new thread for that question with a video linked for reference.

Appreciate the threads 2 cents.

 

What mystifies me is how you had fuel pressure at the rail but fuel pump was still the issue. What’s even more befuddling is you already replaced the fuel pump. I suspect even with NAPA parts you’ll be going thru this again in 2-5 years. Denso brand is OEM manuf’er and seems to be the only manufacturer anyone on this forum has been able to get to last more than 5 years. And it’s cheaper than a number of store brands.


Glad you got it working, and glad to see you updated with the solve. Many people don’t.