Time to ask for help - Truck won't fire

Hey Guys,
SO the story goes:
The truck sits for long periods of time (bush/hunting/fishing truck) always starts with just a touch of the key. (Have a built in battery maintainer) The last time I went to start it, it took 3, 10 second cranks before it lit up. Drove it around, and it ran perfect, no codes, no hesitation, no stumbles. Now it's just turning over. I can smell fuel so I dont think that is the issue, But Iam not opposed to testing the fuel pump. (Installed a new one a few years ago...lets say within 15,000km). Checked all fuses inside and outside the cab, and relays all look good and not burnt (havent tested relays as i dont know the procedure) Tested the fuel resistor and its reading .7, also ordered a new crank shaft position sensor as I heard that may be the culprit as well, and since the one installed was probably from factory, figured it couldn't hurt to have a new one installed anyways ( old and new were 2-4 OHMS difference, so turns out old one was good anyways). I am starting to suspect something to do with spark? There is no CEL (codes) to help push me in the right direction. Hoping you gurus might be able to shine some light on what to do next,
Thanks,


Help my dog get back to bush cruisin!
(no dogs were harmed in the taking of this picture, cruise was at 10kms)

 

Battery?

 

Not the battery if its turning over.

I'd disconnect the fuel line at the rail and crank it to be 100% sure its getting fuel as fuel supply issue seems most probable.

 

Yes, i do have one. And it is fully charged (Plugged into a battery maintainer everytime I park it)

I will try this to make sure, thankyou

 

Well, pulled the Banjo bolt on the driver's side, front fuel rail, and turned the truck over.
No fuel came out. So I guess it's a fuel pump. How can I test it before I replace?
Thanks,

Also, I have a obd2 sensor that will do live readings (bluedriver) I have had it working on the Tundra with no issues. But now it won't connect. It will connect to my Dodge, but not the Toyota. Wondering if this is a coincidence, or maybe a ECU/ECM issue that also isn't allowing fuel as well?

Thanks,

 

You can check for voltage at the connector for the pump to make sure the pump is getting power. Pump will only be powered when cranking and after the engine fires.
Did you put a parts store fuel pump in it last?

 

Thats an interesting theory.....seems possible. See if you can borrow generic code reader from someone and double check.

 

So 2 person test, gotcha
I can't remember, but chances are high, yes. I know I did it the same weekend it crapped out, and I doubt Toyota would have had one in stock for me to have done the swap that quick.

 

The stock pump is a pretty generic Denso that is used in a lot of other vehicles from that period, for instance, its the exact same pump that is used in a 2000 Subaru....so it probably was in stock, but the Denso's are like $100 and the clones are $20 so it depends on what kind of parts shopper you are.

 

According to the FSM, that is a good reading.

Along with checking fuel pump, I'd check/double check those items needed for pump operation.....20 Amp EFI fuse, EFI relay, C/OPN relay, Fuel pump relay....pretty much in that order.

 

Thanks for the diagrams! They make a world of difference. And the Input. Have confirmed it is not fuse or relays. Will probably just order a new fuel pump now. It looks like rockautos "premium" pump is the Delphi. Thoughts?

 

Get a Denso, its the OEM pump.

But seriously, I would check the OBD first, its cheap to check and make sure your ECU is working before you go through all the hassle of a fuel pump.

 

**update, cleaning did not fix the issue. Maybe damage was already done. Maybe something else also entirely

Wonder if this could be the culprit...and if there's anything saving it, ha




Underside looks good...

 

That’s a new one for around here and we’ve had some doozies !
Windshield leak or duct work….very odd for sure.

 

Everything is dry inside the truck, and no signs of moisture or leaks

 

Ain't got no gas. Hmmmmm.

 

Ebay has multiple listings for ECU repair for $100-150. I would try cleaning yours up and see if it will work. Maybe someone will come along an tell you how to go about doing that without causing more damage.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302830477230?fits=Year%3A2001%7CModel%3ATundra

 

This part looks not good.....I would say that is probably it, especially if you still can't get an OBD read on it.

 

Can you take a good PCB cleaner/electric contact cleaner and ESD-safe brush (old toothbrush will work in a pinch) and clean that PCB up proper, then post some more pics of what's under that corrosion? I prefer Deoxit for contact cleaning but CRC is fine too.

I just want to see if there's any clear damage to the board and see if your solder joints are still good. There's a solid chance everything is fine, but you're seeing issues due to corrosion creating extra bridges that shouldn't be there.

Up in the sticky section there's a 'Definitive leak thread' topic if you scroll through the sticky thread list. I don't think it's the cowl fastener leak, although it'd be on the correct side to hit the ECU. I agree with above, likely a windshield leak.

 

Can I install a new ECM or does it need to be programmed by the dealer for my truck? I believe it needs to be programmed? I called the dealer to see if they could test just the ECM, but they cannot. They need the whole truck to go through the OBD.
Anybody have any luck on where to buy a new ECM?

Truck still turns over, but does not fire, no OBD connection

Used a soft bristle brush out of my gun cleaning kit

Solder joints looks ok, once everything was cleaned it looked like any other part of the part. Looking at the under side of the lid for the case it almost looks like there's some burn marks? See previous pictures.

Can't see any water damage or leaks anywhere in side the cab, or under the dash. I made sure to have a good look when I pulled the ECM out. It is currently raining, so I'll make sure to have another good look

 

I swear @empty_lord or @BubbaW answered this question in the past (I think it was EL, he's the Toyo mech) but I don't remember the answer. I want to say as long as the #of cylinders is the same and the driveline is the same (2wd/4wd) and the engine tech is the same (VVTi / non-VVTi) it's plug and play.

Others on here have had to swap out. @Tundra2 is one of those who did, when he thought his was fried. If you can manage to find a year+drivetrain match, I'd hope you'd be fine, but ...

Have you done any startup testing like shown in the video below?

Stupid question here, but you did check all your fuses, right? Both in the dash and in the engine bay? Note there *is* an OBD fuse in the dash box, the 7.5 you'll see under the square 30A here (ignore the red boxes, that's from another topic):

Here's the leak thread if it helps: https://www.tundras.com/threads/definitive-2000-2006-cab-area-rain-water-leak-thread.70464/

And here's that startup testing video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jWouSQYTnU

 

These old trucks shouldn’t require any programming. As long as the part number is the same your good

 

Hey, thanks for the pictures and video! I did check that fuse, and just re checked it. It is good.
I looked through that leak thread when you'd mentioned it and don't see any water spots and even after the rain we just had the interior of the truck is still dry under the dash and carpets.
I just ran through that video and it's mostly for the starter if I'm not mistaken. My truck is getting power to the starter. It's turning over just fine. Just not doing the last part of what it's suppose to do...fire and run, haha.

Okay, I guess the only thing is. Is if I put in another computer the VIN won't read the same as what the truck is..
But thats no big Deal, thanks.



Also, where would be a good place to get a new ECM...straight from the Toyota dealer? Or would you guys recommend somewhere off the internet?
Thanks,

 

I have a 2000 Tundra V8 4WD ECU I'd be willing to sell you if you can confirm it would work...

 

@tyler-brown can we see what the part number is off your ECU box? IT's probably on the other side you're not showing in pictures.

It'll probably be in the format of XXXXX-XXXXX where each "X" is a number or letter.

 

Just might according to McGeorge Toyota, if he has a 4x4....same part # fits 00-01 Limited or SR5. Your part # 89661-0C161 was replaced by 89661-0C161-84

2000-2001 Toyota Tundra Computer Engine Con 89661-0C161-84 | Toyota Parts (mcgeorgetoyota.com)

Powertrain Control for 2001 Toyota Tundra | Toyota Parts (mcgeorgetoyota.com)

 

My truck is a 2001, V8 Limited 4x4. Unfortunately the sticker with the part number had rubbed off when I wiped the case off after taking it out of my truck.

 

Strong possibility the spare used ECU Noah/Tundra2 has up there would work for you if what BubbaW says is right (for the record, he's almost never wrong).

If you wanted a sanity check, call the dealership parts dept and tell them you need a new ECU but want to make sure you're getting the right part. Give them your VIN # and have them confirm the correct part number. Ask the price, then say it's steeper than you hoped and end the call nicely.

Noah picked up his spare to diagnose an issue with his truck not entering closed or open loop if I remember, but I forget which. Issue wasn't the ECU as possibly suspected. Needless to say, it's been tested and worked great.

I'd still be worried about how that thing got so damn drenched though. Enough to saturate the label, and to get inside and do that. May want to wrap the replacement in duct tape or packing tape.

 

Actually the more I look at it the more it looks like the last 5 are 0c140