Bad Engine Bearing

Think this is inaccurate.....look at the shear number of recalls for the Ford 150s. Chevrolets drop transmissions all the time so much that a master mechanic at our local Chevrolet dealer said he would never buy one and recommends the CURRENT Tundra. Ram can't give their trucks away they are plagued with so many problems. I don't know who your local dealer is but they can easily switch to RAM or chevy dealership.

 

People are used to previous generations quality, where the worst thing that seems to happen is running out of gas.

 

Wierd that “running out of gas” on my 07 crewmax meant I needed a new water pump at 41k miles.

 

You had a water pump fail? How long was the truck down for that?

 

The above is the best advice. (edit)

If you live in Florida or Arizona, someplace hot, with a turbo motor that the oil gets heated up by them, general rule of thumb without the analysis is to change it more frequently.

 

Yeah, that made me chuckle. My Gen2 has been a good truck but had it’s fair share of issues that come to mind:

• Brakes gone at 5k
• Electronic Shift controller
• ABS Sensor mounts decoupled
• Electronic Shift Controller (Yes, again)
• Rear axle assembly/seal/bearing
• I don’t recall what it was, related to distributor but on left rear frame, see pic. This one left me stranded far from pavement and nice long walk.

She is generally still solid however. I think gen3 will fare just fine over time. Especially against the big 3.

 

Fuel pump control module?

 

I think you’re right. ‘module’ was one of the words. When first diagnosed I thought, “shouldn’t that be under the hood?”

 

This is a PWM amplifier basically. It's purpose is to be close to the fuel pump and amplify a weak EPA-friendly signal from ECU to a strong 12v PWM required by the pump. Could be a generator, if the communication is more advanced, like LIN, I2C or SMBus.

Gen3 has a similar one, too. Don't know where it is located.

But you gave me a good hint what I need to carry in my offroad zip kit. Non-Toyota branded once are like $50.

 

I know someone working on a bypass module.

 

Bypass what? Older vehicles had fuel pumps cranking at 100% all the time. The excess pressure was relieved by a valve. Newer ones control the duty cycle of the pump with PWM signal (pulse-width modulated), so it delivers the exact fuel volume at needed pressure. 12 Volts PWM is a lot to ask for from a low voltage ECU, thus there's an amplifier in between.

 

You’re kidding right? As a Gen2.5 owner I’m surprised you carry anything but extra gas.

 

I wouldn’t call it an amplifier as my understanding is it provides the 12v from a separate wire/source.

You can jump wires and completely bypass the module that dials down the fuel pump. A plug-n-play bypass module is what I’m referring to.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/fuel-pump-control-module-ground-side-circuit-voltage-drop.63638/

 

Not even gas. What for? With 38 gal tank I never use more than 2/3 in the woods.

 

Wed, Any update from Toyota ? What is the current fail rate ? Any new thoughts as to what is causing these failures ? Thank you Kid

 

Wed, Any update from Toyota ? What is the current fail rate ? Any new thoughts as to what is causing these failures ? Thank you Kid

 

Well, add me to the list of engine failures. Had some stalling issues last week and then some knocking in the bottom end yesterday. Took it in today and there was metal shaving in the oil and it sounds like a crankshaft bearing. 28k miles on it.

 

That is terrible news.

 

Post here first - 3.4 I-Force engine failures.
Discuss here - OFFICIAL MY22+ Tundra/MY23+ Sequoia V35A-FTS (Type '21) Engine Failure Discussion Thread
See here - OFFICIAL: MY22+ Toyota Tundra V35A-FTS (Type '21) Engine Failure Questionnaire Results - 02/29/24

 

Drain your 0w20 water now and fill it with 0w40 (cold climate) or 10w40 (hot climate) if you want this flimsy overstressed engine to survive.

 

I've been watching a lot of videos from Lake Speed Jr and it is some very insightful info...

 

Most of the US land is what can be considered a hot climate. V35A is a direct injection engine, which means lot more fuel in oil that thins it even further. Lot more pressure on the bearings, because the engine produces more torque. Lot hotter operational conditions, more heat per square inch is generated everywhere, hot oil becomes less viscous even further. Lot higher real compression numbers, because this engine operates under boost. The lowest possible octane rating gas is recommended. ECU has no choice, but wait for detonations to begin and back off ignition/boost. This application screeches for thick oil.

 

The v35a is direct and port injection.

 

Doesn't matter. Port injections piece here is only for intake valves cleaning.

 

I daily drive a company provided vehicle. A 2020 Chevy Silverado 1 wheel drive, crew cab with a 4 cylinder turbo. I just rolled past 50,000 miles driven in hot humid FL and the company will only buy 87 octane. No towing and I am not easy on it. No issues with performance so far.

It can be done with 87 in hot areas. Also not lifted with giant tires and heavy added skid plates either.

 

I would 100% agree with the oil being too thin for the application. Maybe not the only reason for the bearing failures(IE maybe also a design/manufacturing issue) but 0W-20 is silly IMHO.

Ford attempted to use 5W-20 in the 3.5L Ecoboost for the first 2 years in the Taurus SHO and Explorer Sport but quickly changed all 3.5 EB vehicles to 5W-30 by the time the F150's came out with the engine. I think they realized between the high specific output and fuel contamination that they needed some buffer.

GM is also spec'ing 5W-30 in their 2.7L Turbomax engine while their 5.3L and 6.2L V8's are 0W-20.

Jeeps running 0W-40 in the 3.0 HO motor in the Grand Wagoneer.

And i am guessing most of the german GTDI motors are specing 0W-40 or something.

 

Chevy is also extremely conservative on the tuning with that 2.7L. If the wind blows the wrong direction they dial it back.

But regardless, these motors can take advatage of pretty much any octane you throw at them. My 2014 Ecoboost wouldn't full max out timing even when I was running 96 octane.

 

So, seriously, should I start using 5W30?

@wedemmoez what is the current failure rate? Any info?

 

I just turned 46,000 today and I've been using GTMO 0W-20 since new with no issues...

Personal preference - 5K OCIs and 91/93 octane only.

 

That is what I have been doing in my '24 exactly. Good to know.
I hope your health improves.