What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Tomato potato

 

Potato lobotomy.

Or maybe that's backwards, lobotomy makes you a potato. Potato potato.

 

You just triggered the juke box in my head
https://youtu.be/4gjYqcwaklo

 

Great minds think alike.

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Went to an open house this weekend. Came out to find a moving truck slid into an ice run and onto my truck As you can see by the picture, he CLEARLY did not have any room on the right side... He HAD to drive this close to my poor truck ...
Is there a part interchangeability post somewhere as to which parts interchange between other tundras & sequoia's?

Mine is an 04 DC & I'll need a door, fender, fender flares, bumper, headlight & side marker light.

 

Dang!

 

@danmurphymn why u sourcing parts yourself? Whoever was driving that truck should have insurance and u should be going to a bodyshop for estimates. Sorry about ur luck btw. I know the feeling very well.

 

Problem there is given the age of the truck, insurance will likely total it

 

@DJenerated I work as a collision repair tech age does not determine total on its own. Mileage, condition, and market value play bigger factors. Although used car prices are down from there peak they are still inflated and I just did a front end on 2012 Honda CRV with 136k miles that I thought for sure would total and it did not. @danmurphymn has a lot of market value he can argue for the title to kept in tact here. The grey AC above is mine. I wrote that estimate myself a lil over a year ago with approval of my own insurance company for $7500 and it didn’t total with 160k on the clock. Toyotas are extremely valuable even in high mileage. Maybe not so in parts of the country where domestics rule the land but here in the west @danmurphymn tundra is probably worth north of $15k

 

Also considering he’s not at fault here the at fault party’s insurance can’t just total his truck if he’s not happy with the value they are giving him.

 

I could see how with a stiff suspension, going poly body mounts wouldn't improve anything. I've worked on fixing the overly soft 3rd gen offroad (nose dive with every brake pedal) and the rather destroyed 2002 Tundra (not so springy after 20+ years) and then paid my dues a few times over on the '05 Taco (which started fine till I replaced shocks and now, way way later, is back to pretty good condition after softening things up quite a bit with lighter springs and some shock tuning.)

But, yeah, you want to have that suspension dialed, otherwise the rubber mounts might mask a little bit of harshness in which case that'd be a bonus (till they wear out, though replacing with rubber isn't the worst move if they have reasonable lifetime.)

 

The poly bushings I put in the V6 is why I bought a WHOLE NEW Steering Rack for crackie. They are way way way too firm for my taste. I can't bump the wheel lighting a smoke without having to recorrect my angles. It's kinda scary. Dad hates it. I hate it. Dad also hates the T100 brake system I put in. Thinks the brakes are too sensitive for something the non-abs. I kind of agree with him there too.

I have some mending I need to do. Adjust some Rods.

I love that cb setup. You got a link for where you got it? I absolutely love the blurple back light. I need to redo some shit in crackie.

Ummm hello, you got a write up for that anvil swap or is it pretty straight forward? That shit looks cool as fuck.

 

Give it time. That should soften up within a few months after bleeding the brakes. (Well, it least at does on GM cars lol)

 

Nawl, you can lock that truck up like the Duke boys going round a curve they're working on straightenin'!

You gotta know what you're doing driving that rig!!! Plus it's been over a year??

 

I’ve been looking in my 2001 Tundra repair manuals for the schematic showing the break down and part numbers for the body mounts and can’t find it. Any advice, mines look bad and I would like to replace them too.

 

My wife's jeep has an electric steering rack. It's just an electric powered hydraulic steering pump that still uses fluid. Haven't seen what cars run 100% electric servo style steering racks if any.

 

I assumed the new Tundras are all electric power steering. Maybe I’m wrong. Don’t know.

 

I found mine at Toyota parts.

https://parts.toyota.com/?partner=G...BtJeHyX3DkQlmiIbxqCFPPLmy30exyzoaAiuKEALw_wcB

If you put your VIN in before searching, it only gives you parts that fit your truck.

On a DC, the rear and middle mounts are the same fit. I would use the rears for all 4, they are heavier - more rubber. But that’s your call. The front/radiator mounts are smaller and different.

you should be able to find a dealer that has free shipping and at least 30-32% off MSRP, so once you find the parts, check different dealers for the best price.

 

That's what my old Durango had also, looked pretty similar to the Fenner electric/hydraulic units.

My Altima has a straight electric rack, looks like an oversized wiper motor stuck on there.

 

Oof. Screw Matt's Moving from Minnesota!!! Worst, most careless drivers ever!

Yeah, that just hasn't been the experience a lot of guys here have had after their accidents.

Yup, this is what I was talking about - not you specifically - but a common complaint when dealing with poly with anything related to steering with rack & pinion.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113808/

@Jack McCarthy has experience and wisdom he can share. There's one other person too. I thought there was a thread giving lots more info but I can't find it.

 

My well cared for 2000 with around 245k or so on the clock at the time was totaled by some driver's side door dents caused by a renegade T-bone deer collision. I kept it. Still has the door dents. I massaged the bed dents out a bit and they aren't very noticeable. Needed to get my fender flare reattached. Total damage was around $5800 per the body shop.

 

That’s unfortunate but yea 245k is up there, not much market value at that mileage. Also depends how the shop wrote up the estimate. Two used doors wouldn’t have been a big deal but the bedside repair or replacement plus paint n clear is a higher dollar job then what @danmurphymn is looking at. As far as I can see, which isn’t very far with the current photos.

 

I wrote the info down on the back of an envelope and it got lost somewhere in the 3 year pile on my desk.

What I DO remember is that the parts in the break out diagram are somewhat outdated according to the dealer. They have the substitution parts even though you can use the old part numbers ordering online. Go figure.

 

Truck sits at 265k or so now. Everything works. Frame is pristine. AC 4WD limited 2 owner with all maintenance done. Market value ain’t too shabby on this one currently. Insurance value lags behind somewhat.

 

You ever talk to a skilled PDR guy about popping the door dents out?

I know a lot of PDR techs don't like working on trucks with older paint because it's not at elastic which makes for a little more finesse work, but the lack of clear, crisp creases I'm seeing in your dents suggest it'd be pretty easy for a solid tech, and if you popped off the door cards in advance, they'd probably only charge a couple hundo.

Here's some before/after PDR pics of the truck I sold to buy my 1GT. It had damn dents everywhere. I wanna say I paid $550 for all this? Almost all driver side and hood.

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Here's the 'after'. See if you can find evidence of any of the above dents. This is a '98, so older than anything we're driving. The paint was clearly shot, but it was low-mile, I just wasn't willing to put more money into it when it had a near-impossible-to-repair cowl leak that was strangely reminiscent of the 1GT.

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I was thinking the same thing. Looks like something a paintless dent guy could fix.

 

That truck brings back some good memories. Had a 98 Extended cab stepside in that two tone color with the tan cloth interior. 350 Vortec, third door. Loved that truck. GM's modern golden age.
Talked to a PDR "friend of mine" who looked at it and wouldn't even give me an estimate. I said would $500 take care of it? and he was hesitant to say, thought it would be more and was worried he couldn't get it back to normal. I offered $500 to get it back to convex instead of concave and he wouldn't bite on that either. Not much of a friend. If I did PDR, I would do my friend's cars in my driveway whilst cranking some tunes and drinking beer together with the game on in the background and the grill smoking. But that's just me.

 

I need to put that 5100.brake system in my truck

 

Thank you!

Yeah, it's a Walker President II FCC. It has a bunch of different colors for the backlight so you can find the right style. Conveniently, the Walker II is Single DIN so it can fit into the dash.

Here's the vid that inspired me: https://youtu.be/Xb4hlG-YplY

 

I'm partial to the '67-'68 and '47-'53, but for modern era, it's hard to beat the looks of the GMT400s from '88-'98, they look good slammed or lifted. Mine was fully-loaded with tan leather and power everything, Vortec guts, but 2WD. I posted a pic of an '03 on here previously, and I think my '67 too, I've had a bunch of GM stuff over the years. That was before I found out what "reliable" truly meant in a vehicle about a decade ago.

I'm pretty sure @Jack McCarthy, @Richid and @SouthPaw did theirs, though they may not have info handy. Here you go, some threads which may help:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2003-body-center-mount-bolt-and-lifting-cab-off-frame.53360/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/pickup-bed-lean…bad-leaf-bushing-shock.107039/

There was one more thread on the topic, and one other person who did it. I can't remember it. But I'll just reiterate: Do yourself a favor, when you unbutton a couple of bolts on the cab, you'd be shocked at how high you can jack the cab up to gain access to work more freely.