What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

You’d actually really like @robabeatle sound set up, he’s gone way above and beyond just the doors, with other Materials as well I believe. He’s a audio head similar to yourself!

 

that
L area of the box is the target.

 

Said screw it. Wire, rtmr, Deutsch connectors, pins, seals, plugs, a ground bus and some other odds and ends coming. Wiring projects to start soon. Once I have the rtmr and ground bus I’ll check fitment where I want it all then decide if I’m running a dual j case fuse holder for my amp and future larger draw add ons or if I’ll be running a single space dependent

trucks garage queen stayus for now with the body damage. So may as well make progress where I can

 

Thanks for your thoughts on the window seals; is this the part?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...&+lamp+assembly,windshield+molding+/+seal,766


And for sure, way over kill with the cld in many respects. Now, I did not use a solid piece of abs or the like to cover the huge holes in the door, just the cld which in theory helps the midbass. Also, using the cld on the door card to hold the mlv there in place. But most people mistakenly believe that cld will block road noise and well, not so much. For that you need mass, like mlv, which I have 100 lbs in the truck: mostly the floor of the cab and the doors. I just happen to have extra cld around and wanted to make it extra difficult to put on the door panels each time, which is about every other day now.

I just learned a new technique for getting the time alignment down to the resolution of the dsp. Not hard once I got my hand held by a german gentleman. Here is a pulse from the tweeters reaching the midpoint of where my head would be:

The idea is to delay timing until the initial rise in each tweeter is overlapped. That way the signal from each tweeter (and then each woof, etc.) all reach the listener at the same time. Imaging is coming along...

 

I believe this is the electrical tray I have, in case it helps:

https://www.kamdesignstudios.com/electrical-mount-v1-5

 

I hope I’m just seeing things and that isn’t coolant mixing with the oil to make it reddish brown.



Still need to take care of this valve cover gasket leak…

 

Looks like just normal oil to me.

 

Im hoping you’re right. I’ll change it next week just to make sure.

 

Crack your oil pan drain plug and see if any water comes out.

 

That’s a good point. When I drain it, I can pour some into a clear container and see if water separates from the oil.

 

If there’s water in there, it will come out first. The oil will float on top of the water

 

Oh, I know, I remember when he did his cab floors and was thinking that was overkill too, but I'm not one to knock anyone, I totally understand. Over-the-top is OK in that case.

It came up in conversation over here but the meat of the conversation and issue is over here. I suspect the core of the problem is the seal I pasted in orange in that 2nd thread. But it could also be the red or the green seals.

I think @Kimosabe replaced the 'sweep' or 'squeegee' part that's 68172A / 68172B in the diagram he posted after my colored diagram and he says that got rid of 80%+ of the rattles. Someone did, at least. But I'm skeptical if all rattles can be quelled without doing the upper seal I lined in orange.

I believe it was on another forum, that I saw where someone took backer rod and was able to shove it into the seal I painted in orange and it 'fixed' the rattle. But I can't seem to find that thread again, so I dunno what size backer rod to buy.

 

Exactly the kind of solution I was looking for.

I happen to have a piece of irrigation drip line that is miraculously the exact length of the window channel. I slipped into that fold. The window closed but struggled a tiny bit at the very top. A few times back and forth and it closes fully. I will test to see if it stops the rattle later.

 

Thank you for that link. I ordered the parts listed there and the OEM handle. My truck is a DC.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/crackhead-resurrection.94083/page-75#post-3030247

 

Where'd you stuff it in the channel and what diameter hose? Last time I looked, I seem to remember it having two flaps on either side that should put pressure on the window, ceasing any rattle. And that would give with time. I figured you could stuff backer rod into the back of it like shown here with red dots (this isn't our exact seal), which would force more firm grip on the window. Is this basically what you did?

​

 

Sucks though, I looked it up, and the paint-matched one isn't around anymore for your truck. It would've been the part number ending in 'b0' or 'b1'. I found a couple on fleaBay.

 

I did, but with 1/8 inch drip irrigation line. I tucked it into one side of the flaps only. I figured backer rod is too flexible. It definitely removed a good bit of play in the window. Thank you sir.

When I first got the truck, I also ran silicon based tubing on the outside seals of the doors and it is holding up still. In southern AZ, that is a feat.

So, the window is better, but the damned rattle is still there so it is something else. Chasing rattles aint no fun.

 

Did some welding on the bumper today. And then found where my PS leak was coming from(cracked hose at the cooler) so I went and got more hose but capped the lines while I sanded and cleaned with purple degreaser. Tomorrow I’ll be painting it black, hopefully I can get into all the nooks on the backside

 

Thems some good looking welds.

 

Most of them weren’t mine

 

Oh, in that case, those are some shit welds, bro!

 

Shitty/Non-Shitty welds aside... It all fit gud?

 

Yeah fits nice

 

TUNDRA

 

<< TUNDRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

 

Tunora

 

It's really hard to etch on round tubing but you may be right.

 

I wouldn't have noticed if yall didn't point it out! Lol

 

you're fine. Coolant would make it milky and opaque. Looks like good clean oil.