HOWTO: 1st Gen (best gen) tailgate clip repair, overhaul, beef-up, lube

Here's a recurring theme. One which is easily avoidable if you just take a minute to lube things every now and then.

My tailgate won't open.
My tailgate sticks.
My tailgate won't unlatch on one side.
My tailgate doesn't unlatch evenly.​

Two big problems I've found with my Gen1 tailgate.

1) The retention and guide clips are skimpy plastic that starts to get brittle after 10-15 years.
2) Apparently a lot of Gen1 owners never bother to lube the tailgate moving parts.

Fortunately it's possible to use improved parts from Gen2 trucks to overhaul our tailgates. Now, if you order the part numbers in this thread, the parts guy is gonna tell you this ain't for your truck! Damn right it's not, but it sure as hell fits and works better than stock.

DISCLAIMER: This work was done on a 2006 Limited AC. The assumption is it will work on earlier models and DC models. YMMV, I'm not responsible for damage or lost funds.

First, let's talk about the #1 problem above since the #2 problem is an issue of being lazy ass, which this thread can't help. Chintzy plastics, take a gander at the difference between our old Gen1 part and the newer Gen2 part:

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Now, it seems Toyota color coded things. It seems - for the tailgate at least - clips for the passenger side are orange, clips for the driver side are purple. This may be helpful if you get lost, or if someone already replaced yours with ones from the Dorman pack (which are white, yellow, or brown).

Here are the part numbers we're using. You'll need two of each. Part numbers below the image.

Passenger clip: 69759-0C040
Driver clip: 69759-0C050
Stabilizer clip: 69749-34010​

Got the parts? If you need to order, online rices are cheaper than most, and you can often find discount codes you can use for certain dealerships online.

Let's start disassembly. It's easiest to do this with the gate open, if possible. You'll need the following tools:

• Phillips head screwdriver, #2-#3 size
• Torx T30 driver or bit
• Celebratory beer, on ice
• Optional: Needlenose pliers

First thing to remove is the tailgate protective cap. To do that, remove the 6 plastic expansion screws circled in yellow. Then lift the cap towards you (if open) or up (if closed), starting from one end and working to the other. Next, using a T30 Torx, pop out the 8 bolts holding the tailgate mechanical cover and bedliner piece (if there) in place. Once done, remove the cover(s) to reveal shit we'll be working on.

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It should be pretty clear what we need to do. System is simple. You've got your main latch mechanism in the middle, attached to your tailgate handle. There's two bars connecting that to the outer clamps. About halfway down the bar, there's a plastic stabilizer clip which holds things straight so they won't bind.

The clips holding all three spots on the bar in-place may be brittle. All have a pinch point on the underside to pop them up and out once they're popped off the bar, and the bar is lifted out. How do you do that? Easy, friend. Slide the connector over, then lift out the bar.

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I found - for me - it was easier to completely remove the bar, sitting it in the bed in the EXACT position I removed it so there's no confusion later. Once it's out, I worked on one side at a time, removing each clip by pinching the bottom and pushing it back out. Then reinstalled the bar. THEN I ACTUATED THE TAILGATE TO MAKE SURE IT WORKED AND LUBED ANYTHING THAT MOVES DURING ACTUATION.

Here's that clip removal action in progress.

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Oh, and the mid-bar stabilizers aren't much different. It's just a serious PITA to push the clip together. The stupid disc thingy on them tends to break first, which lets the bar flop around, which ultimately causes the purple/orange clips to snap. It's best just to buy two for a couple bucks and replace them, since you're in here anyway, and you're gonna lube everything before we finish, so it won't break again, right?!

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Again, once we're done, this joker looks way beefier. Good for another decade or three. One last time, before we button it all back up, check to make sure it opens and closes. Wait - did you shoot everything on all three mechanisms with grease? Watch everything move as you pull the handle, make sure you got it all.

If you've got a bedliner in your truck, take my advice when you button-up everything. Install the inner 4 screws first, 80% of the way. Then do the 2/each on the outer edges next to 80%. It helps to push the bedliner outwards to get the screws started. Once all 8 are in, make sure it's sitting nice around the edges, then torque down the inner 4 in an X pattern, and push the bedliner out while tightening the outer twos so you don't end up with any waves.

Then admire your work, pat yourself on the back, button it up, put away your tools, and before you close that tailgate, grab your celebratory beer, and make sure the tailgate still holds the weight of your bad ass while you sip on that beer.

Finished internals should look something like this for the center and outer latches, but maybe with more lube. YOU REMEMBERED TO LUBE, RIGHT?:

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Nice work.

On my truck the problem was the wimpy cover bent and was restricting the smooth return. So it worked great with the panel off and sticky with it on. I never thought of replacing those clips. That part is brilliant. But I did lube and then I just sucked it up and went with mountain hatch. Way beefier and no denting. Watching the dog jump in and slide to safety in the bed kinda rules too.

 

I didn't have a choice with replacing the clips. One side of mine stopped unlatching. When I popped it open, here's what I saw - one of the passenger side clips was in pieces. Everything mechanical was dry as a bone inside. It opened after replacing the broken orange fastener with one of the yellow Dorman mixed pack units, which worked, but it fit poorly, and I could see the other plastic bits flexing when I opened the tailgate still.

Then I lubed all the moving parts and it was night and day. Opened like butter. No more flex on the plastics. After fiddling with trying to get the yellow Dorman piece to fit better, I decided I wasn't happy with how crappy Dorman pieces fit, and researched an OEM alterative, figuring I'd replace the Dorman and overhaul the rest while there, since they were inevitably going to break anyway. The new OEM Toyota pieces from the newer trucks slid right in place firmly, and definitely had more 'umph' when snapping onto the bar. Very solid feeling. Much better than the old OEM. But, really, the biggest thing I learned was the original connectors installed on the truck will likely continue to work for a long time ... IF you keep things lubed so there's no strain and stress on them.

 

Yeah, for sure all of what you did rules.

I did similar lube-wise and replaced handle and once I reinstalled the cover it was still bad. Realized the cover was binding so I bent it back but then it felt like tinfoil and I wanted a more permanent solution.

Definitely buying the clips for next time I have it open.

 

Love the thread title! I’m sure we will still get some turds in here…….

 

Actually just took the Tailgate off my truck yesterday to pop off the plastic covers and fix some rusties and dents. Lone and behold it seems that they either added the Keyed dimpled cover plate to the newer gens or the guy who had my truck before me lost that entire section. Yippie!

Guess there's no point in not upgrading to the stronger clips now

 

I can't answer when that plate came to be, but I can say, I can see how someone would get frustrated by the thing if the tailgate was stuck up/shut, and it had a bedliner. It would be exceptionally difficult to hold the small plate in place while also keeping the bedliner plate over it, and trying to get two opposing screws in.

Hell, I should add a note about that also. There's a pattern you can use when reinstalling the bedliner part on. If you start with the inner box of 4 screws before doing the outers, it's a hell of a lot easier to get it all lined up.

 

Thanks to Shifty for writing this great thread! The tailgate latches on my '03 Tundra were getting hinky so it was time to refurb before it wouldn't close or open. I obtained the plastic parts that Shifty recommended and they are beefier than the originals. Supplying the part numbers really helped.

All my clips were still functional but the mid bar stabilizer clips were deteriorating and cracked. I was able to get all the end clips off without breaking them but they're not worth saving. The main hang up with the latch function was that the original lube had hardened which limited all the moving parts. I cleaned and brushed everything with mineral spirits and generously re lubricated.

Shifty didn't mention removing the side latches but all that was straight forward and easy. I bathed and brushed the latches in mineral spirits and lubed those too. Now it all works perfectly smooth, a night and day difference! Yea! So glad I did this job and thanks again, Shifty.

 

Literally a 1-finger lift to open the tailgate after! I wish all service was this easy and had this noticeable of a result

 

I may have to hop on this train . . . curious if the same parts will work on a 2006 DC.
"Gracias Por El Thread Revisado" !

 

The clips are universal between all three cab types. Technically they're for 2nd gen Tundra, I believe. But the 1st gen clips aren't available anymore (discontinued).

Honestly, just getting in there and lubing everything makes a massive difference. But I think most folks who've done this have found at least one broken or weak clip in the process. 15-20 years is probably a long lifetime, refresh can't hurt for how little it costs.

 

On my '03, I had lubed the side latches several times over the years but it led to a build up of greasy dirt. The inside center latch mechanism hadn't been touched so the factory lube had hardened such that it was barely functioning. It wasn't an option to simply apply more lube. The parts had to be thoroughly cleaned with grease solvent first and mineral spirits does the job nicely. I didn't have any fancy automotive lube so I used a wax based dry lube that doesn't attract dirt like petroleum or lithium grease does. It's sold for bike chains. We'll see how it works.

What lubricants do you all like for lock and latch mechanisms that are exposed to dust and dirt?

 

Dust/sand environments always benefit most from a dry lube. But I won't use a dry lube unless the latch itself was completely cleaned of all old lube, because the factory seems to use lithium, or sometimes with plastics something more akin to SuperLube.

My personal preference of dry lube on my bikes and tackle is Bullfrog. For doors and locks I've got a white/green/yellow aerosol dry graphite lube can (not CRC brand, not SlipPlate). I've had it forever, I'd need to take a photo of it, I can't recall wtf it is. I feel like it has a number associated with it. I need to grab it from my neighbor, he borrowed it to lube his exterior doors and garage door.

 

Thank you for your write up! The previous owner told me when a fork lift was loading the back of the truck it "bumped" the right side a little so, when I open the tailgate I have to press hard against the right side, then lift the handle to open. Looking at the V on the tailgate where it latches on both sides into the body U shaped tailgate latch it's centered on the left as it should be, but the V catches high on the U shape latch on the body. Not sure if that's something a body shop can fix or what? But it's a hassle to open the tailgate. As it doesn't always open. Grrrr

 

I've lubed mine so many times since 2001 I've lost count, maybe 4 or 5 times actually, but it's still as smooth as butter. More than 2 fingers to open, needs service.

 

When I got my truck the tailgate handle was broken. I could wedge a screwdriver in the right spot and pry it open and it was real stiff. The PO included a new scamazon handle that I put in and I honestly just sprayed everything I could down with PB blaster. Was that the right lubricant? No. Is it still smooth now? Yeah