Turbo Charging A Tundra!

Shout outs:
Special thank you to Jesse @TurboKits for being a tremendous partner in not only the turbocharged Tundra scene, but across the entire forced induction Tundra scene. Your willingness and ability to leverage your ecosystem to deliver solutions to common hurdles and issues faced by everyone running boost is greatly appreciated. Without you and your support, this thread wouldn't exist.

Thank you to Ken @Black@Blue19 for paving the way (as captured early in this thread) and for passing the baton and allowing this thread to continue growing.

Thank you to Toby @snivilous for all of the effort you have put in at the supercharger thread and for being willing to allow me to base this post on it. Your open-mindedness and willingness to collaborate and support the broader discussion is unmatched and warrants more recognition than this shout out can offer. TY

Tundras.com moderators and staff - thank you for being accessible and being willing to support this thread. The small peak behind the curtain and getting to witness miracles happen behind the scenes made me realize just how much goes into this platform that us commoners take for granted. Unsung hero award goes the entire team.

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Words of Caution:
The 2/2.5 gen Tundra is a stout powertrain. Modifications of any kind change the Toyota engineered systems, for better or worse. If you add any power adder, know that the engine requires tuning to support it. Also know that you'll likely want to think about a traction solution in the rear diff so you aren't dependent upon the electronic LSD. The transmission, in stock form, will hold ~450WHP for a while, but a valve body upgrade will hold up to ~600WHP. Over that and you're looking at an expensive swap to a different transmission. Additionally, the stock block has some objection to forced induction. Go in knowing that a fun yet still dependable build can be had if you keep it to ~500WHP, but it gets really expensive beyond that. Choose your level of fun according to your risk appetite. A remanufactured long block is ~$6500. A remanufactured transmission is about ~$5000. An upgraded valve body is ~$1000. None of these prices include labor.

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Turbocharger Reference Information for the 3UR 5.7L
This post will evolve over time and is meant to give quick and easy access for basic knowledge, modifications and options. This post also intentionally mirrors the format of the @snivilous has created for the General Supercharger Thread (https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/#post-2155383).


Basic Information: A turbocharger (aka turbo, aka turbosupercharger) works by using exhaust gases to spin a turbine. At the other end of this turbine is a compressor wheel that compresses inlet air and forces it into the engine. The forced induction process is mostly the same between supercharger and turbocharger installations: fuel + air = power.


(above photo: https://www.melett.com/technical/turbocharger-explained/what-are-turbochargers/)


What do they mean by “free power”: Perhaps the biggest difference between a turbocharger and a supercharger is in HOW they product boost. A turbocharger utilizes exhaust (a waste product from the internal combustion process). There is no mechanical demand from the engine to create this driving force, which is why it is referred to as “free power” . A supercharger is known to have parasitic loss because it requires the engine to mechanically drive the compression process, all the time, via a drive belt connected to the crank pulley of the engine. This is mostly accepted to be in the ballpark of 25-50hp, with size and supercharger type directly impacting that number.


Performance: Forced induction is awesome. End of story. No debate.

But let’s talk about some factual data points captured with the 3UR-FE.

1. Turbo lag (aka spool time): By the nature of how a turbocharger works, there will be turbo lag. But what is this? It’s the delay from when you stomp on the pedal until boost is delivered and performance is increased. Every turbo will have some sort of lag because it is driven by exhaust gas, meaning the engine acts as the middle man in your message for more power. More throttle, more combustion, more exhaust gas, more boost, in that order.
   
   The important metric to understand is how much lag or spool time? A well-designed turbocharger application is critical to performance. Too small and it won’t deliver big power and might spool far too fast. Too large and the lag/spool time could be exaggerated, but the power could be outstanding. There is a balance that should be found. Much like a renovation on a home, the planning and infrastructure work is the least enjoyable and most often underappreciated (if recognized at all), but is everything that quietly provides you with your user experience for years to come.
   
   If you care about learning more, you can research the A/R of a turbocharger candidate. A/R (Area over Radius) is the number that is often “matched” to an engine and helps with overall performance. Typically, the lower the A/R, the lower the lag time and the performance is better in lower RPM ranges. The higher the A/R, more turbo lag but higher performance in higher RPM.
   
   Since January of 2025, it has been proven via Dragy times that a well-designed turbocharged 5.7L is not suffering from any mentionable turbo lag when it comes to 0-60mph times.
   
   
2. “Free power”: With the most common production design on this forum, the turbocharged 5.7L is producing fantastic performance numbers. Most interestingly, in how much torque they make.
   
   Dyno confirmed numbers are ~30 Wheel HP / 1psi of boost. On average, the turbocharger is producing roughly the same WHP at approximately 1-2psi less than our supercharger friends. Wheel torque numbers are averaging ~50lb/ft more than WHP numbers on the dyno.
   
   To be clear, this is NOT a statement of better or worse. In fact, this thread is specifically designed to keep that entire discussion in the past. Boost is awesome regardless of how you are achieving it. These numbers are simply data points in terms of hp and boost numbers between the two options. This is captured in dyno results and confirmed with Dragy times. How you get to great numbers is a personal decision, so please maintain a healthy respect for that.

System-of-Systems Design: A turbocharger is simply one piece of hardware that relies on many other pieces to create a well-balanced and designed turbocharger system. There is hot side exhaust gas delivery piping, there is downstream exhaust gas removal (turbo back exhaust), there is charge piping, an intercooler, boost management via blowoff valves and wastegates, the intake manifold, electronic vs manual controls, fueling upgrades and engine tuning. These components all work in harmony with one another, however, they can also be managed, upgraded or serviced independently as well. While this could be viewed as being more complex, it can also be viewed as being more “open source” and less susceptible to vendor lock.

The following image does a good job of capturing the different aspects of a turbocharger system. The only component missing, which would typically be near the uppipe (purple portion) is a wastegate, which is discussed in more detail later. Otherwise, the represented system is mostly complete.



Turbo: The turbocharger itself is the workhorse of the system. Sizing on this part is critical to overall performance of the system. Unlike the supercharger market, the turbocharger options are essentially only limited to creativity, motivation, and performance requirements. Specific manufacturers will be discussed in a later section, but for the most common implementation as of April 2025, the model used is a Precision Turbo 7675 “Entry Level” unit.

Air filter: The 5.7L comes factory with a form of a cold air intake. The current production turbocharger system removes that factory system and goes with a conical air filter mounted directly to the turbo inlet. Oiled vs oilless is up for debate so long as the turbo is not run with an open inlet since debris can quickly destroy the compressor wheel. Sizing is important to allow the system to breath enough air.

Charge pipe: There is science behind properly sizing of any pipe. This is based on run length, pressure rates, pressure loss over the length of a run, and a bunch of other aspects to include connections to, for example, the turbo compressor outlet and the vehicle throttle body. Similar to exhaust, be mindful of the materials and the air flow to assist in a steady, high flowing system. More air, smaller pipe = higher pressure and higher velocity. Same air, larger pipe = less pressure, lower velocity. There is a balance to be struck in both mass air flow sensor limitations as well as blowout of spark in the cylinders.

Intercooler: The unsung hero of boost, also known as front mount intercooler (FMIC). Its sole purpose is to act as a radiator for your boost/charge air. Compression creates heat. Heat kills power. For what is known as Stage 1 of the production system we have used it is common to see intake air temperatures (IAT) up around 180-200* F. This is the direct result of a compressed air traveling about a mere 16” directly to the throttle body of the engine. Stages 1.5 & 2.0 include an intercooler and IATs consistently show to be ~4-8* F above ambient temperature. That’s nearly 100* difference. Colder air is more dense than hot air, which means more power. Another benefit is that the lower IATs also help prevent detonation due to increased heat in the cylinders.

Blow off Valve (BOV): If you have heard a turbo go “pew” or “tsssss” after being revved, that is the BOV releasing the excess boost pressure out of the charge pipe to avoid surging, turbo stutter, and to reduce the risk of pipe/coupler blowouts. When you are demanding boost and then let off the throttle, what happens to air trapped between a still spinning compressor wheels and the now closed throttle body? It gets vented by the BOV, which often has a swappable spring to support each setup and different boost levels.

Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor: Because everything is computerized, the ECU needs to understand how much air is coming into the engine and at what temperature so it can quickly adjust fueling to accommodate. Because these are electronic sensors, they have pre-defined parameters and convert passing air data into voltage readings. More airflow, higher voltage, the ECU reads that voltage and sends pre-defined amounts of fuel to the engine. It’s common in a boosted application to exceed these parameters. Workarounds exist (see “Charge pipe” section), but this is something that will need to be tracked and managed and is a critical component of tuning the engine. Turbokits.com has a custom solution to assist as well and will be discussed later.

Water/Methanol: This is an optional sub-system for most boosted applications. Choose your flavor, but the principle is simple. Water and methanol (alcohol) are sprayed into the intake manifold and then injected into the cylinders during the combustion process. This aids in cooling the cylinders and pistons since boost/compression/bigger flame/more power = more heat. There are many ways to go about it, but the key is no more than 49% methanol due to its corrosive nature and flammability. Some people swear by it, some people hate it. Technology is advancing, but the system is not fool-proof and it is encouraged you read up on the risks and understand the installation and research the “add-ons” recommended by the manufacturer. It is proven to work, but it is encouraged to exercise caution.

Throttle Body (TB)/Manifold: Unlike the supercharger that completely replaces the factory intake manifold, the turbocharger system does not replace anything on/in the factory engine. For the 5.7L, the intake manifold is plastic with electronic valves inside that electronically adjust intake runner lengths based on multiple parameters. Cool in some respects, but a documented concern (not yet realized on this forum) is that the plastic valves begin to flex at ~15psi of boost. While it is unlikely a stock engine would be running a turbocharger at 15psi (it’s at ~525WHP/625HP at the crank @ ~6.7psi), there are aftermarket options available that can replace the stock manifold. The issues appear to show up during logging and tuning.

Hot side tubing/uppipe/collector: Similar to the charge tubing, this matters - a lot. There are a few options on how to go about this. One option is to replace factory manifolds with a turbo manifold, which has a collector built into the manifold for the turbo to directly mount to. The other option is to built a bolt on system that replaces the downpipes of a stock exhaust system, merges the two banks/pipes, and then the turbo mounts to that new, single pipe. As of April 2025, there is no known production turbo header for the 5.7L and only one production turbocharger system produced by Turbokits.com.

As with everything tied to boost, tube sizing matters as it directly impacts flow. As with charge tube sizing, hot/exhaust side tubing does as well, as this side extracts hot gasses away from the cylinders. The science is important to understand and the manifold, uppipe and turbo back exhaust all matter and work closely with one another. It is commonly understood that one wants high pressure before the turbo and low pressure after. The hotter the exhaust gasses, the more energy it has, which means more energy to spin the turbo as it races to get to a lower pressure area of the exhaust.

Location of components, be it a front mounted system or rear mount system, does not matter for any of this discussion. The concepts and principles are all the same. Spend your time up front in your planning to get the most out of your design.

Coating, wrap, or nothing: As stated, you want to retain as much heat in the hot side of your turbo system as possible leading up to the turbine. Tubing size, material, and the length of run all feed into this. While not mandatory, there is an opportunity to choose from multiple options on how to best manage this. There are heat retention coatings, there are heat mats that can be applied, and there are traditional header/exhaust type of wraps. Performance improvements aside, keeping the heat away from sensitive components is also critical. Think through the system, look for compromised components, do what you need to do to protect them.

Wastegate (dump vs reroute): A wastegate is a simply device that must not be forgotten or ignored! We previously discussed the BOV and how that vents off excess boost/charge from the intake pipe when it is no longer called for. We have also discussed how throttle = combustion = exhaust gas = boost. But how do you control how much boost? Enter the wastegate.

When shopping for a turbocharger, they are often rated for “up to XXXX horse power”. That means, full beans, 60k RPM or whatever insane RPM value they can sustain before self-destructing, they can pump enough air to support that HP rating. Cool, except the common Precision Turbo 7675 turbo can support “up to 1200HP”, and there is no factory 5.7L that is going to support that. So we need to control the amount of exhaust going to it and control the amount of RPM the turbo will operate at. THIS is what the wastegate does by opening and closing a valve (based on vacuum or manual spring rate), allowing for exhaust gasses to bypass the turbine of the turbo. Less exhaust gas = less RPM = less boost.

There are two common methods to bypass the turbo. First, a “dump” system, also referred to as a screamer pipe. It just directly dumps the exhaust as if it were an open header. It’s loud, but it is a very simple process. Second is via a recirculation tube. Same concept, same operation, except it keeps the exhaust gases in the exhaust system and simply ties into the turbo back exhaust further downstream, after the turbo. It’s quieter, but it also requires proper sizing of the turbo back system, as it is not uncommon for something like the 7675 to require the wastegate to operate at in the 30-40% duty cycle range for over 500WHP and right around a 5.0s 0-60MPH time. That’s a lot of extra exhaust gas that may not necessarily be accounted for in the uppipe sizing, but that needs to be considered for the turbo back system to avoid a scavenging or backpressure issue.

Electronic vs Manual control: This portion discusses how a wastegate will be controlled.

There are two options.

1. Manual spring rate option. This is the most simple and is used even with electronic boost control. Like a BOV, the wastegate utilizes a manual spring that controls the opening/closing of the valve inside. These can be swapped out to set a manual spring rate, typically in 1.5psi increments.
   
   
2. Electronic boost control option. This uses an electronic controller and solenoid to help manage/alter the manual spring performance within the wastegate. The concept is simple: controller is set to a specific duty cycle, which sends predetermined amounts of pressure to the top of the wastegate, applying an opposing force against the manual spring. It’s no different than trying to open a door with no obstruction vs opening a door with something pressing against the door on the other side. It requires more pressure, which in this case, we mean more boost.
   
   With the electronic controller turned off, the wastegate returns to manual spring rate only. Or, in our example, the obstruction is removed and the door returns to its normal operation requiring less force to operate.

There is a lot more to this discussion, but hopefully this helps you understand how we can better control our boost pressures. The wastegate is perhaps the single most important part of the entire system, second only to the turbocharger itself.

Turbo Back Exhaust: The exhaust on a turbocharged system is different than factory, especially on a single turbocharger solution, as the two banks of the engine have been merged and the exhaust gases intentionally kept hot before entering the turbo. This requires everything downstream of the turbocharger to be considered for flow and performance. Against popular belief, backpressure is bad. For a turbocharger system, backpressure is really bad. Enter the discussion of turbo back exhaust systems vs traditional cat back systems.

Since the merge of the two banks of the engine are done much further upstream than a stock exhaust configuration, the discussion needs to change a bit and brought all the way to the turbo hot side exit. It is not uncommon for pressure in the uppipe to be nearly double what the amount of boost pressure is in the system. This has to do with heat (expansion) and the restriction the turbine in the turbo creates. Ideally, there would be zero additional pressure in the system above what the boost level is.

How does this happen then? Enter more science. The idea is to create as little restriction after the turbo as possible and the simple principles of exhaust systems apply throughout. Less curves, larger tubing, high flow converters and mufflers. The ~500WHP numbers @ 6.7psi on the Dyno are achieved on 2.5” uppipe and 3” matching downpipe and mid-pipe before merging into the stock 2.75” cat back systems popular on the 5.7L. There is question about whether or not this this is sufficient, as a more straight-thru designed 3” system has shown promise in logs and tuning to better handle recirculated exhausts gas from the wastegate. The use of the stock replacement cat back system required the wastegate be dumped to alleviate the issue, showing that there is some limitation being seen on the platform once reaching ~500WHP.

As a placeholder for future update, there is science that suggests upsizing the entire turbo back exhaust to the next size up in tubing helps reduce the pre-turbo pressures and increase performance. This is actively being considered and will be tested in the very near future. An increase from a 3” downpipe to a 3.5” downpipe provides 1.5x the area of the pipe, allowing for substantially more flow, which has been shown to not only increase HP, but also reduce turbo lag/spool time.




Basic Supporting Modifications (also borrowed from @snivilous in the General Supercharger Thread)

These list just a couple of the common modifications to support the turbocharger and are highly recommended. While this list is similar to that of the supercharger thread, it has been paired down to known and trusted options for the current production system making the known HP people are looking to achieve.


Fuel Pumps -  The stock fuel pump cannot keep up with the turbocharger, although Stage 1 can utilize it for up to 3.5psi under ~5k RPM. An upgraded pump provides more fuel flow to prevent leaning out. The pump requires the gas tank to be dropped, the new pump connection to be spliced into the stock connection inside the tank, and the new pump to be mounted to the fuel catch can inside the tank. Flex Fuel Vehicle (FFV) pumps can better support Stage 1, however, Stage 2 becomes problematic above ~7psi.

Installation Instructions from Prospeed:  https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...EED_TUNDRA_FUEL_PUMP_UPGRADE.pdf?v=1602272845

DW 340 - Does not require modifications to run

Walbro 450Ti - $200 for the install kit, flows enough fuel for 750+ injectors, may require wiring modifications to supply enough power to the pump

URD Fuel Pump Kits - Lots of options, includes some extras, none flow much but are more than the stock pump

Fancy fuel pump install: https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-181#post-3070380


Spark Plugs-
IKH22 (stock for Magnuson)
IKH24 (colder version of the above) - recommended for turbocharger applications
Ruthenium HX forced induction specific plugs (other alternative used by Tacoma guys)

Gapping:
For the turbocharged applications commonly found on this forum, it is recommended plugs be gapped at .032 to .028.


Ignition Coils
Stock ignition coils work fine.

Upgraded ignition coils: Denso673-1206

- Work fine as-is with no performance loss.- For peak performance, they require a custom dwell time table to be created for the tune by @JustDSM and OTT
​

Fuel Injectors -  The two common fuel upgrades are the fuel pump, and then injectors. With a higher flowing pump, a higher flowing injector will soon be needed to inject more fuel into the combustion chamber. A larger injector can supply more fuel, but tuning fidelity may suffer as the injector gets larger. A rule of thumb is you want 80% injector duty cycle at WOT, so there is a 20% reserve capability of the injector. Once at 100% duty cycle the injector physically cannot move more fuel and the engine will begin to lean out. Injector duty cycle information linked at bottom of this post.

Stage 1:

- Stock Tan - 372cc–mostly fine
- TRD Green Injectors/Magnuson - 535cc (44% bump over stock) – preferred Stage 1
​

Stage 2:

- DeatschWerks 650cc (75% bump over stock, 22% bump over TRD Greens) - preferred entry Stage 2
- Prospeed 750/725cc (95% bump over stock, 36% bump over TRD Greens)
- Five-O 750cc (95% bump over stock, 36% bump over TRD Greens)
- Turbokits.com 880cc (136% bump over stock, 65% bump over TRD Greens) - preferred moderate + Stage 2
- Prospeed 1000cc (169% bump over stock, 87% bump over TRD Greens)​

Tuning - A tune can make or break a vehicle. A good tune will increase horsepower and torque and drivability, a bad tune will destroy an engine. There are multiple software options to tune the Tundra, and multiple tuning companies that can provide a tune, either remotely via email or with a dyno locally.

HP Tuners Software - Requires purchasing 4x Credits and their MPVI device and having a laptop. $600 just to unlock the vehicle and buy the device. Allows for control of the transmission shifting, engine parameters, CEL codes, torque limits, etc. This thread has information on HPT. HPT has its own dedicated forum as well, with a thread called "Toyota Repository" that has in-depth information as well.

VF Tuner Software - Requires purchasing credits and their OBD interface and having a laptop. Allows for control of the transmission, engine, and other parameters. Perhaps more advanced than HP Tuners, albeit less information and perhaps more difficult to tune with. This thread has information on VFT.  VFT has its own forum as well.

Tuning Companies - HPT and VFT are stand alone software. Other companies use those, and other proprietary software, to create tunes so you don't have to learn and mess with anything. Prices vary wildly, but here are a few options: Turbokits.com, Prospeed, D3, DAP, YotaWerx, OTT, Snivs Speeds Shop, etc.


Intakes – The turbocharger utilizes the stock intake manifold OR an aftermarket unit if desired, however, most of the 5.7L turbocharger applications are aftermarket bolt-on options. This is very different than the supercharger since that hardware replaces the stock intake manifold.

Turbokits.com has a reprogrammed MAF sensor to support the increase in boosted air flow.

Aftermarket intake manifold for turbochargers: https://rogue-offroad.com/Rogue-Sleeper-Designs-07-21-Tundra-Intake-Manifold_p_19519.html


Gauges - A wideband air fuel ratio sensor is highly recommended, especially one integrated into an electronic boost controller. The stock sensor can only read down to 11.9 AFR, which is not rich enough for a boosted engine. When the stock gauge reads 11.9 you may be at 11.8 or at 9.8 and have no way of knowing. A wideband sensor will read the full range of fueling and help with tuning and monitoring the engines health.

Innovate SCG-1: $405, electronic boost controller, reads both AFR and boost, has multiple display and programming options.

Innovate Datalogging Variables for HPT (unclear if this works with the SCG-1):  https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-227#post-3130290

AEM Wideband - $240 (multiple options though), reads AFR, has OBD2 pass through for datalogging

$160 ScanGauge - SG2 II Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges , Black , 5"

Scan Gauge or OBD Fusion app

Settings: https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-375#post-3371567

Knock Correct Learned Value (Degrees)
TXD: 07E021BA
RXF: 432180000000
RXD: 2810
MTH: 000A0020D800
NAME: KCLV

Knock Feedback Value (Degrees)
TXD: 07E021BA
RXF: 432180000000
RXD: 3810
MTH: 000A0020D800
NAME: KFV
​

Fuel Pressure Gauge adapter for Fuel Line:
https://www.racetronix.biz/p/adapter-qdf-5-16qdm-5-16-1-8-port/qda-56f56mp


Heat Management Solutions:
Turbokits.com for having tubing and turbo housing coated.

DEI: Heat wraps and tapes

$47 AC PERFORMANCE Basalt Laminated Aluminum Heat Shield Insulation Armor for Exhaust headers, Manifolds, Turbo housing, 1/2" Thick x 1' Wide x 2' Long

Generic: Knockoff Heat Wrap


Turbo Rebuild:
Most turbocharger manufacturers offer rebuild kits and services. Turbokits.com also offers rebuild services for the items they sell. As each component of the system is essentially its own sub-system, you will work with the manufacture and/or vendor for warranty work.




Known Production Systems for the 5.7L



Turbokits.com Stage 1:

Includes – Precision 7675 T4 Turbo, Precision 46mm Wastegate, AEM V3 Progressive Water Methanol install kit, Forge Billet BOV, Custom Stage 1 Straight Shot Coupler, Custom High Flow MAF, HP Tuners Stage 1 Calibration, Stainless Steel Mandrel Bent Tubing, Vibrant SS V-Band Clamps

Issues – Water/Methanol dependent system, higher IATs due to no intercooler, fueling limitations

Link: https://www.turbokits.com/2007-2021-tundra-5-7l-stage-1-turbo-kit-500hp.html





Turbokits.com Stage 2:

Includes – Precision 7675 T4 Turbo, Precision 46mm Wastegate, AEM V3 Progressive Water Methanol install kit, Forge Billet BOV, Huge FMIC, Intercooler Mounting Bracket with Trans Cooler Provisions, T6061 Mandrel Bent Charger Pipe, Custom Screened High Flow MAF, HP Tuners Stage 1 Calibration, Stainless Steel Mandrel Bent Tubing, Vibrant SS V-Band Clamps

Issues – Fueling limitations without upgrading fuel injectors and pumps

Link: https://www.turbokits.com/2007-2021-tundra-5-7l-stage-2-intercooled-turbo-kit-600hp.html




Installation support videos:
Place holder




Spreadsheets/Helpful Posts:

Performance: TBD

Extended Crank Issues: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cJw7hhV-SC4FpPol4kti4dsJp1vhWqyJ/edit#gid=1474561400

Injector Duty cycle information: https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-518#post-3583989

How to run fuel pump to drain tank:https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-596#post-3688132

Flex Fuel Force High Pressure Mode:https://www.tundras.com/threads/supercharger-running-lean.140825/page-3#post-3548350

Convert FFV Fuel System to Normal:https://www.tundras.com/threads/5-7-supercharged-e85-fuel-system-diy-project.101526/#post-2605294

 

This is all new as of this morning. I told this place I would deliver my truck and they could have it for as long as it takes. Been going back and forth with emails for two days. Jesse P called this morning and we got the pleasantries out of the way. They liked the idea that I was just giving them the truck and would not be there bothering them. If I was a few years younger I would stick around and ask if I could help do things! I was assured everything would be 100% professionally done and look good in the engine room!

They will put on a stage one as this is going to be a kit that they sell as a bolt on type system with instructions. I asked if they would do a stage two since they had the truck and he said they would do that after they were done with finalizing and buttoning up the stage one. They would have to do some more piping work but no big deal. I have a while to decide on the stage two, want to make sure of a couple thing before I go that route. I already forgot the HP stats so I sent an email and promised that would be the last time they hear from me until I take off to deliver truck.

Out of pocket expenses are going to be I will pay for what ever they have to pay for the Hp Tune stuff but the tune and dyno will be on them, the gauge, turbo (at their discretion) which will be the one they sell in the kit I’m sure?, meth/water system, blow off valve and maybe a new set of injectors. I am planning on 3500 out of pocket but do not think it will take all that. Labor and piping and fittings will be covered and parts will be at cost so that is pretty cool!! They say it will be documented and of course they will keep me up to date.

I do not have much more to say about the project other than it sounds like a win win for me and the company. I do not want to over step my boundaries and I do not want to speak out of school so until things get rolling it is probably going to be pretty bland I think!

I will post as I get information and I am going to invite them to post on my piece here as they progress without going overboard or stepping on toes??. Fingers do not work well so some posts might look weird until I go back and fix things, it’s just that I might be in a hurry and I want to get it down before I forget!! I’ll be leaving after Turkey Day! Wish me/us luck!

 

Correct me if I read this wrong, you said the whole project (stage 1) will cost you $3500 total, parts and labor?
Where on earth in Houston did you find this place?!

 

Sounds like maybe he is donating his truck for a prototype build? Sounds slightly risky to me but I’m lame. I’m not familiar with any existing bolt-on turbo options for the 5.7.

 

Oh..... sorry, re-read that and it is a Turbo kit not SC.... my bad.

 

You are right but there is going to be right around the first of the year. Not much risk at all. No more than anything else as far as adding something to the engine. Company is on the up and up and I am sure they will take excellent care of my truck!! After all this is going to be something they stand to make money on so I am sure they do not want to mess anything up. They have access to a dyno close by and plenty of people doing tunes now and I was told they have a couple guys that do great work. If they break something they will fix it. I have to stay professional here, I am not worried.

 

How much boost are we talking, 4-5 psi?

 

Fuel requirements?

 

This is the email I just received.


The stage 1 kit bring about 400WHP and 430WTQ at only 4.5 PSI and the Stage II we are targeting 500WHP and about 550WTQ at 8-9 PSI Keep in mind, this would be at the wheels on a Mustang DYNO, which these truck pull 280ish in stock form, give or take,, so it's a solid 30HP per PSI!


I put the give or take in there because there were a couple misspelled words, so I stuck that in there.

 

This sounds wicked, just a friendly advice.

Please ensure you have a proper contract in place, make sure it states:
- They are responsible for ensuring the car return in factory state should something happens, or otherwise you hold them liable.
- The vehicle cannot be sold/loan/rented etc
- And make sure states clearly who is responsible to what capacity when something breaks.

This is from experience seeing folks loan out their cars for "demo".

 

none that I am aware of. Injectors on the stage two

 

500/550 is right about the MAF limit on the 3.5" intake. does the kit increase the intake to 4.5"'s?

 

Do not know as I am in the undecided mode for stage two. They did say that the piping will be changed once the stage one is on and documented.

 

I would say the stage 2 should need injectors and fuel pump

 

Fuel pump should be good but I am having some technical persons looking in to that. They say the fuel pump can handle the injectors. As they have already turned a few Tundras at their shop. This is just the finalization on the newer model to iron out anything that might pop up.

 

What pump do you have? I can tell you for sure the stock one will not handle it lol.

 

That is one of the things I am looking into.

 

Super cool and crazy cheap for you.

I would imagine that a finished kit would cost in the 5-6000 range.

 

That’s awesome, I hope it works out well for you. I’d definitely do the stage 2 as well, if not for the increased power for the fact that the intake temps should be lower with the intercooler and will keep the engine happier. Agreed, the stock fuel pump and injectors won’t cut it even if it’s an FFV. Make sure the tuner knows these trucks need a richer than usual AFR at WOT (10.5-11.5) to keep the rings cool as they have very tight ring gaps.

I could be wrong on this so correct me as needed, but it stands to reason in my brain…..Being a turbo, you may not max the MAF voltage out to hit the 500 whp. I say that because to get 500 wheel with a supercharger the engine is really making even more power but a decent chunk of it is being immediately lost through parasitic losses to spin the supercharger rotors. To throw out some fake numbers for example an SC engine might be making 250hp over stock, but the blower instantly consumes 50hp to spin at max RPM and you wind up with a 200hp net gain. Therefore, you should be able to make the same whp/wtq as a supercharged engine but with less air and fuel since you actually get to keep all of the extra power made.

 

Ok here is a reply, I would say these guys are on top of it. And with their prices as they told me they will not make a penny off of me I/my engine will be in good hands.


“Yes, 100%, Tundra does like to run Rich, our tune on the current truck start in the 12:0 range for air fuels and is down into the low 11s by peal boost and higher RPMs. In regards to the pump, we have used the Deatschwerks 340lph pump as they make one specific to the tundra and it’s a great pump. You would NOT need fuel rails for the goals with your truck.”

They are not requiring any money up front but I do not feel right doing that and it is one less thing for anyone to worry about.

They are going to start the process of making sure there will not be any hold up on parts given the current situations! HA!

these above and what I have asked I think I have everything covered. The wait will be awesome and then going back to pick up the truck will be nuts!!! ?

 

Interesting concept, good luck!

 

I would gladly pay $ for an actual *turbocharger* kit for my Tundra.

 

Ohhh buddy, if this works out even a stage 1 would be a great help for towing without hammering on the throttle to get going plus considerable help at elevation.

 

Is this Prospeed? They have some pretty insane 5.7 Tundra TT and SC builds out there already so they definitely have the experience.

 

Negative

 

No,, it is TurboKits.COM,, they posted up a dealy a couple days ago and I responded and asked a couple questions. We made the deal (1) they need a newer Tundra, (2) the minimal cost to me. (3) I told them they could have my truck for as long as it took, within reason. They have the stage 1 pretty much ready, when they get it on and documented with a couple dyno runs, test drives and on and on. They will offer the stage one as a bolt on kit after the first of the year I assume. They will take that apart and then do the Stage 2. They was happy I inquired about the Stage 2 as they do not have that as ready or I should say as complete as the stage 1. The stage 2 will take a bit of time but when they get it done they can say that they have the stage 2 complete also! The Chief In Charge sounds nice and it sounds like they have their ducks in a row so I am not expecting any troubles. Nobody likes disruption these days and they do not want any unhappy person out there putting their business in a bad light!! I was assured everything will be right and above board!! I expect nothing less than professionalism during this process!


I will post STUFF!! as I receive it and try my best to be informative.

 

There's a few now I think, one guy in Dubai is running one for a while and I think you can buy it, the shop is called Race X

https://youtu.be/OmxaMmNCObc

Hey OP, I assume this is a single turbo right? so I assume it has a cross over pipe from driver's side to bring it up to passenger side, will there be a support bracket or are they going to run new manifolds? since you are going to have almost 60lbs of weight hanging from passenger manifold.

I assume intake manifold is left stock?

 

on a side note....

I commend you on stepping out there.

this is good for all of mankind.



hope to see you around in Galveston County.

 

Some of this I am not sure of. My main concern was my truck I am not concerned about the where tooos??

I did get this though it is going to be on the passenger side and they will do away with my CAI . Yes I think they will replace the manifold on that side as they will have to take that off. The stage one will face the intake and the stage two will have to be rotated facing the front as there will be a nice big hole in the front of the truck!!! Ouch!!!!! I have seen a Camaro or two with the stage two and it doesn’t look that awful, I will be able to live with it for the HP! my CAT protection plate will have to come off to add a high flow cat and they will see about putting the plate back on.