General Supercharger Thread.

Huh, I saw it from sctundra. Could've mixed thing up though.

 

SlowNStock had a formula for estimating:

To estimate a totally unknown injector constant, you can use a formula for fuel mass:

Cylinder Airmass / Stoich AFR = Injector Pulse Width * Injector Flow Rate

Rearranging terms:

Injector Pulse Width = Cylinder Airmass / (Injector Flow Rate * Stoich AFR)

Substituting into our earlier equation:

Cylinder Airmass / (Injector Flow Rate * Stoich AFR) = 10 * Cylinder Airmass * Stoich AFR * Injector Constant

A little more algebra with the above terms, we finally arrive at:

Injector Constant = 1 / (10 * Injector Flow Rate * (Stoich AFR)^2)

 

Anyone in here with headers/catless using the oem trd catback?

 

I was going through this last night and was getting radically different injector constant values versus scaling. It was making me wonder if my starting value was incorrect.

 

Did sctundra post that as an attachment? I am not a site member there so i cannot view attachments.

Edit. I am now a site member but waiting on approval to view/post I am guessing.

 

Do they charge for it?

 

No, it's free, and the questions are common sense stuff, super easy.
https://www.hptuners.com/emissions/

 

Than I can't imagine why he is on 4.

 

There were several people with the same mindset, thinking that the new software locked it out completely, I guess they didn't read the fine print. HPTuners wouldn't do that, unless they absolutely had to, like a cease and desist order.

 

I'll tell him the 14th

 

I took it at the end of February and it expires after 1 year, so it will likely be a yearly compliance thing...

 

Yes, he did.

 

I started to work on wiring the new pump harness, the relay it appears needs to be near the pump, the wires going to the pump & its ignition on switch are also there & the wires are too short the Radium harness is small gauge. I'm confused.

 

The plug that connects to the pump is the same wiring gauge as the pump, 14 gauge. It looks like the relay wiring will need to be extended, I used 10ft of 10 gauge wire to get from the fuel basket to the engine bay where I have my relay.

 

Doesn't using that 14ga defeat the entire project?

 

Ordered 10ga, hope it works with that 14 ga harness.

 

It's the total distance that matters, the pump wiring is 14ga and is sufficient for powering the pump, but not the entire length at 14ga.

 

Thank you sir!

 

Shoot, sorry man...I thought you purchased a kit that already had the wiring, similar to what I had bought. I purchased the below, which had the wiring included.

http://www.radiumauto.com/DIY-Fuel-Pump-Wiring-Kit-P368.aspx

 

Mine is from Deaschwerks & those wires are short

 

It looked longer from the picture on Amazon, and I saw the relay and fuse provisions so I figured it would be good to go. You should be able to find wiring locally, so you don't have to wait on shipping. The terminals kit comes with the ring terminals you'll need for the top connections, but you might need some butt connectors or another means to connect the 10ga power to the relay wiring.

 

I ordered shrink tubing & while I was there said fuck it & ordered the fuel lines, I am fully past the Rubicon & sitting in the Roman Senate!

 

@e30cabrio are you installing all this wiring to use a 450 pump, or are you going down in pump to the DW340?

 

I'm afraid of using the 450 & afraid the 340 might also need more voltage so I'm leaning to using the 340

It occurred to me I don't seem to have what I need to go from the basket. Which fittings do I need?

 

Ok, just asking because thats the whole appeal of the 340. It can run fine on the factory 14 gauge wire with no alterations. In a 15’ run of 14gauge wire copper conductor at 14v drawing 12.3 amps, you’re looking at a 7% voltage drop at the pump. At a 7% voltage drop you’re looking at the pump drawing 12.7amps at 13 volts at 50psi instead of 12.3amps at 14volts at 50psi.

If you’re going to the 340 I wouldn’t bother with all the wiring, but if you’re keeping the 450 then it makes sense. Just my .02, but if you’re in there and want to change the wiring that’s cool.

 

Are you replacing the fuel lines from the basket to the rails, or only changing the engine-side to dual feed, dual return?

 

I know no one can say with certainty but is the common wisdom the 450's issue is voltage & the wire will solve it? If so, would I be better off sticking with the 450 or should I switch it for the DW300? If I use the 300, it certainly can't hurt to have the more robust wires right?

 

I ordered the list from M3Tundra, that is just the rails? If so I'm done.

 

I don't even think he really needs a wiring upgrade to run the 450. At 50 PSI and 12V its only using 14A and flowing 92.1 Gal/Hr which is 96% of injector capacity for 750CC

The power fuse to the factory fuel pump ecu and fuel pump is a 25A fuse. You guys are saying its 14 gauge wire which I believe but Toyota clearly put a 25A F/PMP fuse on it. I assume the Fuel Pump ecu is using the B+ power feed to pass along to the pump. That's the one thing I have been unsure of here, does the fuel pump ecu tone down the voltage/power delivery to the pump based on commands from the ECM.

 

I don't think I got everything on that Amazon list right, I'd try and go more off the ViktorG sheet that was posted instead. It's why I eventually returned all the custom stuff and just ordered the Prospeed kit