What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Awesome!

 

Nice... almost didn't see it. HAHAHA

Good luck, have fun

 

@CodyP here is a link to their site for the ATS HD Leaf Spring Kit
https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com...uty-rear-leaf-spring-complete-kit-bt90221hck/

 

I ended up just buying airbags but I know I’ll eventually end up having to replace the leafs so thanks

 

Shout out to @whodatschrome for these parts for my HVAC controls.
I had a broken gear lever assembly on the middle temp control mechanism.
I had not planned to do this job until spring, but it was 48deg up here in the forsaken land of snow today, so I got off my arse and did it.

A couple tips for dismantling/assembling.
Remove the cables where they are anchored to the assembly first, then move the entire cable to get the end hooks out of their mounting points.
Reverse with reassembly, Put the hooks in first, then mount the cables in their anchor points.
The plastic is somewhat brittle, and I imagine more so for you in southern states, so be gentle.
Here is a cable mount and how to remove easily.


Getting the shaft pulled out was a little tricky because you cannot see the keyway on the bottom of the mounting hole that you need to line up with in order to slide the shaft back.
The tall rib you see (broken on mine) is the only thing that keeps the shaft in, and firmly engaged with the gears by riding on the outside of the hole (RED)


New gear/lever installed. Reconnected and getting some lube, it's not the space shuttle, so red and tacky will do.


While all the cables were off I tested them for function by hand. I think my issue was the calibration (position the cable was connected) under the hood on the coolant valve.
I also had a moment where I felt like maybe the cables weren't hooked up right or something was weird before
Anyway, all the cables worked quite freely by hand so that was the green light to move forward.
Now I have full control of all functions, and maybe a placebo affect, but It feels like I'm getting better heat and better air flow!


One casualty to report of a tab on the face plate. Next to it is my old JBweld fix that failed. (2nd gen floor mats, free from my neighbor)


I still have all 3 pristine cables that @whodatschrome sent me. If any of you are in need of one let me know.





Side quest:
While I was in that deep I decided to finally install the mic for my head unit. I didn't think I would ever really use it... but while playing Pandora from my phone one day I got a call, the unit answered it, annnnnnd they couldn't hear me...
I had misplaced it and had looked for it on several occasions, but today I found it! Pretty slick Wife and I tested it out while I was buttoning up.

Creeping up very slowly to 300k

 

Excellent work. I got a hold of his vent selector gears and lubed up the mechanism by the gas pedal and now I have some operation on that dial, but need a cable to get fully back to normal. The cable is cheap enough I don't mind going new on it.

 

What’s the lube of choice for the HVAC console, @BroHon ?

I had my assembly replaced once under warranty by a Toyota tech and it came out worse than the original but I noticed he used a thick lube paste that was translucent in color.

I never bothered to asked what was supplied but I know the replacement had less of it than the original assembly. I think it was just for the plastic dial gears in back though.

 

I think they would tell you some kind of silicon grease, but the closest I had was Dielectric and it was pretty runny. I need a tube of that rainbow Superlube .... or Astroglide!
I remember seeing astroglide back in 93 or 95 before it was out in the public I think?, at the hospital for one of my girls births

 

hi guys I know it’s probably been posted already many times on here. But so many messages to cypher through..

Just bought my 05 baby early last week. Already have the TRD grille and side mirrors without the chrome en route. I’m wanting to black out everything even will be de-badging and eventually removing those rims.. this will be my first overlanding rig! So any links or suggestions would be much appreciated on removing all chrome

 

Welcome to your newest addiction.
May your mind and wallet be of strong fortitude.

I am but a weak man. My mistresses run my life.

 

Congrats and welcome! Nice looking truck (MORE PICTURES)
One thing I wish I had done when I first bought my truck was read THIS, (first 2 posts). It covers some of the MOST important things you should know and need to know.
A couple of them are critical to keeping your truck from being damaged or even totaled. Huge wealth of information here, and a bunch of good people willing to help.
EDIT: Timing belt - Failure will destroy your engine
Lower ball joints - Failure will cause loss of control, and depending on what your doing could end really bad

 

Ivan - welcome. Please read Shifty’s megathread for new owners and update your profile ie 2005 DC 4.7 4WD

 

Vinyl wrap is your friend, you could've done the mirrors and grille and door/window sweep pieces in 2hrs for about $10 rather than buy replacements. And as for best friends, so is THIS THREAD, bookmark it, it's your main reference point, and deserves a couple of back/forth reads before you put any more money into your truck. Welcome to the forum.

 

Thanks for pointing that out. Those rubber pieces that Bubba pointed out are missing on both sides (see photos). So, if you don't have these, I suggest you check down their for debris and apply put some protectant. Hell, if you have them, I'd check because dirt and water has a way of getting into places that you think it can't. I could have grown a garden with that crap in there. The passenger side had more debris than the driver side. I'll have to hit the junk yard to see if I can find these. The Sequoia don't have any provision to stop debris form getting down there.

 

Question. What alternator do you suggest other than the Toyota OEM brand? Or, is it best to stick with OEM?

Thanks...Al

 

OEM, Denso

 

Thanks. So, Denso would be the best alternate brand for Toyota parts in general? I ask in this case because I am debating between remanufactured vs a new alternator and a new OEM alternator is $90 more than Denso rebuilt unit. Thoughts?

Note: I am asking for my Sequoia. I know this is a Tundra thread but they are basically the same vehicle when it comes to this stuff. If this is not allowed here let me know.

Thanks...Al

 

I'll be the outlier here, if you can get a new alt from the parts store for less than ANY brand reman I'd buy it.

I've been burned on too many reman alternators/starters to ever buy another one.

 

There are different OE manufacturers for different parts, like Denso, Koyo, etc, but yeah Denso for the alt.

Here's info that might help on alternator options.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-2443#post-3791660

FWIW would prefer to rebuild OE myself then buy a reman.

 

The only other brand I would trust is Bosch, only if new, not re-man. And I would only do that if I couldn’t get Denso in the correct amperage, and if that wasn’t available, if the dealership didn’t have Denso brand in a Toyota box.

The two options I just listed will be manufactured. Denso is reman’d here in the USA by Americans. Far fewer issues than any other brand.

 

Took a look at my factory-original CV boots today. Was pleasantly surprised to find zero cracks or tears after 264K miles. Not sure if Toyota boots are that good or the NM climate is that mild or both. Looks like a small bit of grease was slung from the joint over the last 20 years, but fairly minor. Owned a Chevy forever ago...I'm never going back.

 

New to me truck can finally move, I've been afraid to touch it since driving it home until doing ball joints. Ball joints are now in, new tie rod ends. Timing belt and Radiator both look good but Itll be in my buddy's shop before the end of the week to do the aisin kit and new Rad.

 

Welcome to the forum! Sounds like you're on top of all the important stuff!

 

Much appreciated, this forum is the best. I came from the Volvo world so I put all my trust in the old forum gods

 

It’s time for new tires.

I’m inbetween c or e rated on some new ko3s bfg. I got over 60k miles on my ko2 285/70R/17 e-rated tires. I bought them without any knowledge 5 years ago, they were on the first gen tunda website and I just pulled the trigger. Never had any issues balancing them or with road noise. Pulled a few nails out of them without ever having a leak or flat. Tires still have some of life on them.

The e and c rated tires are the same price.
I drive a lot of highway and city. I get some dirt trails when I camp. I don’t tow anything but I have some extra weight (camper shell and a full size spare).

my gut tells me to go E-rated but iv been reading that C rated might be a better ride and option for me. Anyone have any advice ?

 

Dude, I absolutely love my Mickey Baja Legend EXPs. They're meaty. They're quiet. They're well-mannered. They are nice and sticky on the road, and look aggressive as hell.

But they're only e-rated. Still, they ran better than the c-rated Wildpeaks I had on for a while, and were barely noticeably stiffer on potholes and speedbumps. Weight was within 10% on both (the AT3Ws were 285/70r17 and the Mickeys are 275)

 

I’m going to watch some YouTube videos on those Mickey EXPs. Thank you for the rec.

 

I'm not the only one running, there's plenty of glowing feedback on Tundras.com which is how I found mine. Here's another 1st gen'er with positive words.

Maybe worth it, I dunno? But yeah, I just know if Mickey truly has anything much in C-rated.

 

Hey y'all speaking of feedback. I recently rewired my Leer camper shell's lighting. I'd like a quick-mount terminal I can screw into the bed liner, or mount to the bed wall like this SAE quick connect cable connector/chassis wire. Anyone seen anything like this, a quick-connect system for camper shells?

It looks like my new brake light won't be here 'til tomorrow now (FU, scAmazon), when it arrives I could just solder/ tie in a right-angle quick connect to the end so I can keep it more flush-mount, maybe? I just need to make sure the disc part of it can be weatherproofed (as shown here), and has at least two wire connections, although I'd also like to do a 12v+ power feed to the rear of the truck at some point this year so I can hardwire my dome light in the shell, wire in my LED strips while I'm at it. So if the terminal cup had 4, maybe 6 wires, that's not necessarily a bad thing.

​

 

I’m waiting til I get the final measurements to pick tires, so I’m still in limbo. @shifty` I looked at those Mickey Thompson’s, but they are crazy heavy. In 275/70/17 the toyos are 51 lbs and the mickeys are 71 lbs. Do they feel heavy? Seems like that much weight over stock would suck out some acceleration and braking?