What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Sorry, but where are you getting that info?! This is direct from Mickey for the Baja Legend EXP, see for yourself. ~55lb.

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Wow, that’s a bad typo on discount tires part, I guess those are back in the running!

 

Dang thats like how heavy the 35x10.5r17 Kendra RTs are.
Depending on where you look they're listed between 68-71 lbs.
Not sure how it's so hard to accurately measure weight.

 

Yeah I definitely trust Mickey Thompson’s website over discount tire. I’m sure they’re closer to 55 than 71. Seems like a simple copy and paste situation but somebody screwed that one up…

 

Bruh it depends how much air you put in them, like doy

 

Got damn I suck at stick welding haha. This bumper coming along slowwwww. Going to try flux core tomorrow.

 

I went with a 4 flat trailer harness.

 

Me too. It’s not as attractive as what he’s looking for but it definitely works.

 

Got the Moog inners taken care of friday. Impromptu front end refresh continues! After taking the time to do the outers before, and being much more familiar with the components, was able to get them both done in about 2 hours

Unfortunately while in there, the bellows were full of dirty ATF. I think my seals in the rack are failing. No leaks in the lines above and outside the bellows were dry. Heard about

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 to try out to rejuvenate them. Question is, how much do I use? Does the fluid I add replace ATF level? (Ie take fluid out then add equal amount of AT-205 in) or in addition to?



Also, the valve cover leak is more substantial than I thought to be concerning. Tightened the bolts last week (second time in about a year), but am diving in to possibly needing the gaskets changed, and the figure 8 gasket at the oil filter since there is a leak around that area too. Wonder if the cold temps are making it worse. Checked fluid level and its perfect. Will keep an eye on it. Will also try AT-205 here as well, so same question, would the bottle replace oil at my next change, or do I add it to the 6.5 qts?

Will get pics soon.

 

I sanded, primed and painted mine https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2036#post-3620999

 

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 is an additive package similar to what high-mile engine oil contains. It can be added at any time to fluids (except brakes and coolants). It’s OK to add into fresh oil, and run it. It’s a seal rejuvenator, not a seal swelling agent like some stop-leak products are.

They recommend using 1oz of product per quart of fluid. They also recommend 1 whole bottle (8oz) to treat up to 6 quarts of oil. I’ve seen people claim it’s safe to use as much as 1.5oz - 2oz of product per quart. When I used it with quite good success, I poured a whole bottle (8oz = 1/4 quart of volume) of it into my crankcase. My 2UZ (V8) holds 6.5 quarts, and I checked my oil prior to see I was just below mid-level, so I had more than half a quart of wiggle room for it to be there.

I want to say purposes steering system holds 3.5qts? The specifications section in the back of the owners manual in your glovebox should say/. I noticed a small leak on my bellows about 600-800 miles ago, so I took a turkey baster and siphoned out a couple pulls to empty out the rez, then added 4-5oz of product, and topped off with Valvoline Dex ATF to midway between low/high. I cleaned my bellows off of stray oil a few weeks back, checked this weekend, no new leaking after that 600-800 miles.

As with any product there’s no guarantee it’ll work. It didn’t fully fix my valve cover leaks, because my particular leak was an FIPG failure. It did shore up 90% of the leaks I was having, though. Whoever was in the heads last failed to properly seal the lower right-angle corners at the cam towers, and that’s not something at-205 can fix, I guess. Maybe FIPG isn’t the proper type of rubber.

As always, be skeptical, but know the product has worked for others. It’s expensive if you factor per-ounce cost. With how infrequently some fluids (PS, ATF specifically) get changed in most vehicles, those seals aren’t getting new additive packages, and I think that’s probably where the product shines most, rejuvenating those deprived seals via fresh additive addition. That said, if you look at the cost of a rear main seal (“RMS”) repair versus the cost of this product, or the repair/time cost of other hard to reach seals like the oil cooler figure 8 gasket, sometimes it makes logical sense to drop $20 on a bottle. Go hit the Ih8mud forums and search around for feedback on this product on RMS leaks. You’ll find a number of promising reports, though many coming from the GM world where RMS leaks are far more common than in our Toyotas.

Remember, it takes time of this washing over seals to hit full effect. I think they tell you 300 miles?

 

There's a lot of discussion on this, sprinkled throughout the forum. I'm going to say the only people who need E-rated tires are people really banging their trucks down a lot of rough dirt roads, and hauling really heavy weight. Not the daily driver that goes camping some weekends. That doesn't mean you can't get E-rated tires and make use of the extra protection. You just also deal with the extra weight and stiffness.

Until getting my Tundra, I always ran C-rated. My truck drove thousands of miles down dirt roads. Camping in Montana, camping in southern Utah, living 30 miles down a dirt road, regularly driving 60 miles of dirt road a day, often going 40+mph. C-rated. For a while when I was running Toyo Tires, I'd be good until the tread got below half, then I'd start getting flats. Never happened with BFG, never happened with Falken. If all tires were like those Open Country, Toyo tires I was getting from Les Schwab at the time, I'd be a E-rated evangelist for anyone driving a lot of dirt. But once I switched to Falken Wildpeaks in C, I never got another flat.

I also towed a 3,000 pound trailer. About 300 pounds tongue weight, added to the weight of the fiberglass topper, tons of tools and crap in the back (I was living out of the camper at the time so everything I owned was in the camper and back of the truck), often a 70 pound canoe on top.

C-rated is up to that task. I'm currently running non-LT, XL (extra load) tires, just a step up from SL/standard load. They're still new, so plenty of tread, but they've done everything you describe, on rough roads, plus I had an 860 pound slide-in camper in the truck for a month, took it 20 miles down a dirt road 3 times during hunting season. No problems.

So...I'm going to say E is overkill for you. But nothing necessarily wrong with overkill, so long as you know it's overkill. While I've done fine on C and now non-LT tires, most people around here do run E. But most people around here use their trucks like trucks, and spend a lot of time down dirt roads or live far down dirt roads, haul horse trailers etc. Lots of ranchers and people who work miles and miles down dirt roads every day.

 

Thanks Shifty. I figure $20 a bottle is a lot cheaper and easier to test out versus diving into seal and gasket replacement. If it doesnt help, i'll continue down that road.
I just did my oil maybe 3 weeks ago, so I'll add it in soon and get it cycling through. Same for the rack via the reservoir.

 

Thanks for the information. I'm always concerned about remanufactured part that's why I am thinking new. I didn't think anyone would have a new part for a '13 vehicle but Toyota does. I haven't had to work on a Toyota until I recently purchase the Tundra. The last Toyota I worked on before the Tundra was my 80 Supra many years ago. What's interesting is Toyota's new part is only a few dollars more than their remanufactured part (don't get it). I wish I noticed the issue during Black Friday when Toyota had 25% off parts but I'd been putting miles on the Tundra and not the Sequoia. She might be a little upset with me now that I don't drive her as much.

ToyotaDude thanks for the link to the "lunch table" thread I didn't know about it.

 

Are you sure? ATF should still be slightly red. That is brown. I had some of the same gunk and thought mine were failing but I think some of the grease they pack in there liquified over time. I replaced my bellows when I did my tie rods and I haven't had anything leak since then.

 

Had a piece of starboard fabbed to match my tailgate panel. Came out pretty nice I think. We will see how well it wears. Got sick of the metal panel bending all the time and jamming the tailgate rods.

 

I need to add a shim to my driver's side strut to correct for the lean. It's about 3/8" worth at the front fender. Then I need to add about an inch of lift in the back. Anyone running a 1/2" Taco strut shim up front?

 

I think he specifically wanted you to see that one reply with the 130A/150A alternator info. If you have an '03-'04 or newer, it has the part numbers for the reman Toyota part on both, and both are plug-and-play upgrades/replacements.

Dang, honestly, I feel like you should pop about 2 dozen of those, if it's practical pricing-wise, then make a metal brand and stamp your brand into it and test reselling. Maybe find a way to design it so it can ship in 2 pieces or 3 pieces to cut down on friendit out for easier shipping. I think people may be interested in such a thing.

 

Honestly, you may be right! I figured the ATF had browned over time. I only recently changed the PS fluid so I figured it was residual old stuff... I may just leave it be, monitor the res and make sure it doesn't drop levels. And the grease that was left around the old ball was brown on both sides:

 

That's how mine looked. I feel fairly confident that what you found was 20 years of old grease, maybe even some water that got into the bellows and mixed with it.

 

Here's the video I posted of mine. Looks the same color as yours.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1889#post-3499006

 

Ok, got out there for some (heavy) pics.

My rookie diagnosis: valve cover gasket and/or FIPG failure in the front corners. Oil runs down the oil filler neck or to the "run-off" (?) lip, down to the oil cooler, crossmember and oil pan, runs along oil pan seam and blows backwards while driving wherever it wants. RMS is dry thankfully.

*keep in mind some of the glisten you might see isnt oil, its the lanolin undercoat I had applied last winter.

At the oil cooler/filler neck:


Oil pan, with drips on 4x4 actuator :


looking up at pax side VC:


Front corner of pax VC, and pooling on crossmember:


Back of Driver side VC:

 

Identical condition

 

Yup. Same-same. I was in that same boat, and so is @Dakillacore right now.

It would seem leaky VC gaskets are pretty notorious on our trucks. On the bright side, if you're not seeing it on the front of the engine, or coming out of the timing covers, it's not the cam seals, and that's something to be happy bout if true.

 

Yup yup. Same issue here. Working on it now.

Here is the area that you need to check for part numbers and what is all needed. @notlikejohnny

https://www.tundras.com/threads/valve-covers-fix-or-leave.105385/#:~:text=That kit will,on this one.

 

Worked on my Coastal Offroad bumper some today. My YouTube welding college degree starting to pay off. I have a multi process welder and since I could not get the stick weld down at all I switched to flux core gasless MIG. Was really disappointed in myself on the stick because I think I have excellent manual dexterity, am good at carpentry, finish woodwork, etc., so I figured I should have figured it out eventually but just never could get the feel for it at all. I’m wondering if maybe something was wrong on my setup. Will ask a neighbor for help later this week because I do want to learn to stick weld.

Anyway, night and day difference when switching to flux core wire. Don’t get me wrong, I still suck at that too but I can tell I have gotten a lot better over a couple of hours, something I never even sniffed with the stick setup.

 

looking sweet man!

 

Read the bottle. Only add the required amount. Do not add more than the manufacturer states, or you do so at your own risk. It fixed my power steering leak and is still holding

You got this. Practice, practice, practice.

 

I'd take that over my mountain hatch I think. I'd definitely buy one, if not two.

 

Plastic Or billet You already have the four leaf pack right? So you going to do an AAL?