What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Should I link him to THIS thread?
Lighting info ...

• If replacing your housings, be sure whatever you buy is "CAPA Certified", it's at least baseline not-garbage product. For brands that are higher-quality and will last longer, most offering CAPA certified options, go with Depo, or alternately EagleEyes, TYC, and some say Akkon make good product.
• If swapping to LED headlights or fog lights, the overwhelming majority of people have problems with high beams and fog lights working unless they purchase and add a resistor on at least one headlight so enough load is on the circuit - this may not be necessary if your headlight housings have the extra "teardrop light" in the corner of the housing. Problems have been reported with LED tail lights also, it's not just headlights. Some circuits require resistance that an LED won't deliver.
• Hyperflash problems are common after swapping LEDs into the turn signals. This can be solved installing a Diode Dynamics flashers (avoid the scAmazon knock-offs, buy direct).
• There are H4 mini-projectors available for our trucks, but you'll need to permanently modify the light housing, no oven-baking required, just remove the hat-shaped chrome shroud inside and install the light (detailed instructions). Likewise there are bake-in options for projectors. Check THIS REPLY for common headlight upgrage options, with links.
• For interior LEDs... There's a breakdown of interior light sizes over here. For climate control lighting updates, see here. Dash gauges for earlier 2000-2004 models with replaceable bulbs, check this. The later year model's dash gauges had on-board LEDs and are not replaceable without soldering, color not changeable without sanding the rear of the guage face. REMEMBER: LED lights are polarized. If you install them backwards, they won't light up! If you have one or more not lighting up, try popping out, rotating 180º, and reinstalling.

 

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Now here's a thrpugh back to my Vortex days. Lmfao

Also

 

I live BARELY close enough to the speedway I can hear the races.

 

So quick question of the somewhat rhetorical sort. When your truck is off, if you press the brakes, they should stiffen up after 1-2 presses, right? Yeah, mine doesn't anymore and my brake juice level dropped after around 20 presses. Bummer.

 

Yep, two pumps. That’s how I bleed my brakes.

 

Yea, if you get enough juice in the booster you can use the brake pedal as a smoke show. Like rolling coal, but more like truck vaping.

 

You don’t have a leak in the vacuum line to the booster do you?

 

He's losing brakes fluid too. How would fluid be getting into the booster from the vacuum line? It sounds like it's leaking into the booster.

 

I suppose there could be a leak in the gasket between the booster and master cylinder. That would make it much easier to press I imagine.

 

Is brake fluid still bad for paint? Is it bad for rubber, like ruin a booster kinda bad?

 

Yes x2

 

Good for one person I suppose.

 

Yes.

 

Might be time for a t100 booster.

 

This fixed that for me, but that was before the price hike

https://www.diodedynamics.com/led-flasher-for-2000-2006-toyota-tundra-non-dtrl.html

 

Saved and thank you

 

Installed some steering rack bushings.

 

No problem, I put VLED switch backs in the silver truck. Running light was the same color temp as the headlights, and the turns were amber.

It was sweet before the deer

 

Dam, code doesn't work for me either. Chit.

 

So here's my next question. Well, maybe. The t100 booster will work with drum brakes, obviously. But why is ok for rear disks?

Anyways, do I need a new master cylinder too? @JakeJake, I may need help bleeding some brakes soon. And with a timing belt.

 

go down to the single vs dual section
https://mpbrakes.com/single-and-dual-diaphragm-boosters/#:~:text=A dual diaphragm offers the,diaphragm booster would be ideal.

But the better fix would be a sequoia MC, because i hate over assisted brakes. Probably why i prefer the buells big single disc over the dual discs. More modulation, less like an on/off switch.

the booster just amplifies the pedal pressure. Disconnect & plug the vacuum line & drive around & you can feel how much for the pedal would need.


i had a whole explanation written out using this image:

And how one cylinder was the MC piston & the other was a brake piston on a drum setup & how its opposite for a disc setup, but i confused & frustrated myself.

 

Physics.

 

The nova had manual drums. Couldnt skip leg day in traffic.

 

Count me in! On the final push of my current project, I should be free after the 8th.

The truck at H&H has a master and booster if I remember correctly. ABS too. Probably a cheap OEM direct swap option.

 

Rear main is here. Doubt I’ll let it in today with our schedule. Hopefully tomorrow

 

I used some like those machined units and mine do not cam over properly. My windows rattle. If it was my DD I would have to deal with it.

 

I personally used

$8 Window Latch Hinge Pivot for First Gen Tacoma Tundra Rear Quarter Window 1995-2004 Tundra 2000-2006 Xtracab 2pcs(Black)

this Listing and have no complaints. Also you can manipulate the body side bracket a smidge to tweak the fit.

They are all have questionable geometry/QC from the geographical region that shall not be named so ymmv.

 

Well, consider yourself lucky then.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1612#post-3182827

More info on how that came to be:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/vent-window-pivot-arms.134826/#post-3416010

PSA to the rest of you heathens: Remove the door card and the latches if you do this update, or risk paying dearly like me. It's easier to drive out the pins and drive back in with the latches out. But don't bother with replacing unless yours are currently broken.

 

Both mine are broken but the windows stay closed so I leave them be just because of how much of a headache this can turn into.