Vent window pivot arms...??

Got some replacement vent window arms for my 03 AC. from Scamazon. Had to drill them out, no biggie, but I noticed they don't snug up against the rubber gasket real tight. When you start to close it, it snugs up good then as you lock it down it backs off about 1/8" creating a small gap. If it keeps the rain out and doesn't whistle, it's cool with me. Haven't driven it yet since the swap. Is that normal? They were cheap enough if I need to get different ones that actually compress the rubber gasket I'll get them. Thanks

 

Post pics so we can see if you mounted them correctly. They should look like this…

 

I did...otherwise they wouldn't close...I know this because I DID flip the first one around and would not come close to closing. I'm only talking about less than 1/8" gap glass to gasket. I think I remember seeing a post here about it that they would sometimes do this when were replaced.

 

I’m not sure what to tell you. I didn’t have any issues with mine. Although I didn’t have to drill them out; just used a pin punch to get them in there.

 

They work...don't get me wrong...just doesn't smush the glass tight like OEM.

 

On my first Tundra was a 1st Gen and had the hinge problem. When I got the replacements my issue was the same as yours. The more I looked at things I seen the rubber gasket was pretty worn out so I replaced them and it closed just fine. Just what I went through

 

@Jack McCarthy ...per your pic, is that the ridge I'm seeing on the right side? I noticed one side had a definative ridge when the OEM did not.

 

Ridge is on the back side of the flat spot you see below…

 

Checking when I get home...thx

 

Too funny. I just ordered OEM replacement latches (the whole assembly) today because I'm a fucking idiot, and bought the silver ones off scAmazon when there was nothing wrong with my old ones, and this was the end result.

It was possibly one of the stupidest things I've done on my truck. The ones off scAmazon were identical to OEM as you can see. I assumed they would be some kind of upgrade, a "wind noise fix" like I've bought for some of my GM trucks in the past. They offered nothing meaningful except pain.

Here's an info dump on the parts if you ever choose to refresh your latches, but always check your part numbers at EPC-DATA or Amayama before ordering.

I'm still kicking myself over this, and probably will be indefinitely. My only saving grace is, I've been wanting to pull my rear door panels off to grease latches, tape down a couple of wires, and sound deaden a few more things. Now I'll get to do just that.

 

I remember seeing your post on this...I was so careful tapping them out. I used some penetration lube, gave it a minute and got them out no problem...both of mine broke so I decide to replace. Any comment on them not squishing all the way down when locked in place? Thx

 

I did notice they don't leave a gap, but don't seem to engage as much as the old ones. Bill was on to something above with regard to orientation. The pic of my broken one shows the way it should go. But mine may be different from yours if you don't have the spine on one side and ridge on the other. I stacked mine on top of the OEM one, and the footprint/shape was identical. The hole was slightly smaller tolerance on the silver scAmazon model.

And yeah, The tension pin on my driver's side one was being stubborn as hell, and no amount of lube was helping. Tried squeezing while pushing, squeezing while tapping, just total no-go for me. But my scAmazon kit didn't come with new pins, I had to re-use OEM which may've been the issue.

 

Looks right to me ..

 

That looks right to me.

 

Thx guys... I'll drive it and wash it to see if it whistles or leaks.

 

FWIW, even with my barely used factory arms, with it fully closed, I can still pull/push the window in a solid half inch or so.

 

Can you simply bend the longer metal bracket (that's bolted to the door) a little bit in order for the latch to suck closer to the rubber?

 

I am going back to OEM

 

I had a whistle, took the inner panel off, and the window, bent them back where they belonged, problem solved. 30min job.

 

Wha???

 

He once owned a whistle. He took the inner panel off with a whistle, and the window bent back to where it belonged, problem solved. 30 man job.

 

I understood that...my comment was more of "mind blown...you've got my attention...I'm listening..is there more?"...lol

My odd sense of humor is one of my many gifts to this community ..lol

 

Nah, I was feeling left a bit hanging myself, hence my basically gibberish response.

 

.

 

I took a dead blow hammer to where the window hinges mount. Don't remember exactly which direction I went.
Take a close look at how it seats, you will figure it out. My question was always how the heck did that get bent w/o breaking the window...

edit: I'm pretty sure it was OUT, because the hinge side was clamping down so tight the latch side couldn't make contact with the window seal. Hahaha, my original post was pretty void of usable info... whoooops

 

When you do SO much shit to your truck... you start to forget wtf you did, how, and why sometimes.
I do remember hammering much harder than I wanted to though.
Get inside with a light and really study how its currently seating, like is it Super tight (seal smushed) in any area?

 

Thanks for the pic and description...when I close the latch glass it just barely makes contact with the glass. The OEM seemed to make much more contact/tension. I'll look into it