What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

i wouldnt have bought one, the paper filters are fine, but i have one thats probably been on the truck for over 15 years, and clean & oil it a few times a year.

 

Mine ran a K&N till I bought it back. Air box looked like crap and I don’t think the filter ever got cleaned. I switched back to paper filters for its second life.

 

Not speaking to the poke, but to the footprint. Wider wheels feel almost like they're sticking more while turning, to me at least, although "heavier" is the wrong word to use for that. I said heavier because it feels like you're getting more resistance. 15-20% wider footprint on rollers is pretty significant.

I love reusable things, I stick with paper. Paper will capture finer particulate than oiled cloth with less resistance, unless everything I've read on it is biased...

 

Ah.

Maybe you're referring to a gyroscopic effect? Only felt when turning the wheels while in motion?

Or are you talking traction/grip when turning with the brakes applied and overcoming the additional traction (parking, etc)?

 

Yes, only while in motion and turning. Possibly it's traction, it would make sense if the tire was wider too, more surface area contact rubber to road.

Best way I can think to describe it is like trying to turn while driving slowly on asphalt with 4WD engaged vs. disengaged. A general feeling of more effort required, almost like the tires are sticking. Not quite to the point of manual steering vs. power steering, though.

I dunno wtf to call it, I never thought about the "why" piece. But it's come nearly any time I've moved to larger wheels, either diameter-wise or width.

 

Going wider in both width and offset also reduces mechanical advantage. That combined with wider tires with more traction, definitely can make steering require more effort.

Like going from a breaker bar to a ratchet to loosen lug nuts...

 

Makes me wonder how gd impossible it is to drive a truck like this. I would never own something like this for liability and safety sake, but I'd be curious to take it around the block. I'd be afraid I'd snap a wheel off though, with the way I drive.

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I mean mine tires are out a good bit, 4.5 backspace, 0 offset, and 1.25 spidertrax spacers + 285/75/16s. Setup isnt bad to steer at all but does feel heavy after getting out of my mk4. In fairness though I drive bucket trucks and digger derricks at work so I’m not gonna be a good opinion on heavy steering


Anyways came here cause I finally got around to pulling my rear abs sensors. And found oil. @shifty` or anybody else that’s done rear axle seals got a parts list I can double check my McGeorge cart against before I order?

 

Piece of advice: Don't go trying to solve problems you don't have, lest you create problems you didn't have or want. I sure as hell hope this is sold as a separate piece. And with Toyota Parts' website completely screwed up right now, it's gonna be a bear to find a part number...

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For now, just clean off and reinstall. @bmf4069 can provide part #s for his earlier truck, I don't have a parts list. Toyota's main site is still broken and inputting part numbers in search doesn't work, so I'm not able to look anything up at the moment in a way I can be effective.

 

thanks for the warning. Was about to do mine, but it started raining (sprinkling).

 

The tension pins are an eff'n bitch even with proper tools.

I'll give part numbers, because it's not sold separately, for others in the future. If anyone else needs the rear access cab vent window or wing window latches, parts are as follows for 2000 - 2006 Tundras:

Vent window latch left: 62920-34012-XX
Vent window latch right: 62910-34012-XX

Where "XX" is your truck's color code, i.e. B0, B1, E0, E1 or whatever. Like my Med Charcoal grey ends B1. Moon mist ends B0. Grey ends B2. E0 is oak. E1 is fawn. You get the point.
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Anyway, here's why I think it's a bunch of bullshit. On previous trucks, I bought these as a 'wind noise fix', supposedly the geometry was different, they were elongated, and when you popped the OEM part off and compared side-by-side with OEM, there was clearly a difference. I bought these 'wind noise fix' latches off scAmazon based on a recommendation here with that in mind, because I am getting a little extra wind noise from my rear corners, although in hindsight it's probably the door seal.

Here's the OEM part and the 'wind noise fix' part side by side. I also stacked on top of each other, THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE. And the tension pins are a bitch to get through the billet, to the point I cracked my shit, even using a 1/8 pinset, which is what I was using, alternating with a nail I modified for the tighter space. I almost stopped myself after the passenger side by my f'n OCD wouldn't let me do it. Don't be me. And the stupid part is I've done this half a dozen times on other trucks. UGH.

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At least if I buy both, and restore both to stock, I get FREESHIP from Serra or McGeorge since it still works, if I can actually order from there, and I can take the opportunity with my rear door card off to NOICO my doors.

 

mine only came with a single long pin. Might try to reuse the spring pins.

 

10-4, appreciate it .I don’t think I’m in too bad a shape the abs light comes and goes, but I’ll eventually be addressing it.

 

That long pin is used to push out the roll pins, you’ll need to reuse the pins you’ve got. I did this a while back, I used channel locks.

 

Mine came with no pins. So I have to repurpose the OEM tension pins, which don't seem to like alloy very much.

 

You guys actually vent those AC windows?

 

I used mine while roadside camping, just enough breeze to keep the air fresh.

 

Occasionally yes. I vented mine in Arizona one day while my fridge was inside running.

 

These are the old numbers probably.

 

I used a punch tool to get the pins in mine but that's only after removing the part completely from the door first and doing it on my coffee table with a small 2x6 block of wood in between. Zero issues.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1037#post-2346263

 

Had I been smart, I probably would've removed the entire part, but I was trying to save time not popping off my door card.

Again, lesson learned. It could just be that the tolerances on the part I bought are shit. But either way, knowing the part is the same on both, and they're the same part on both sides, I may just swap out with originals to get back to stock, and save the carcasses. Chalk this up to a lesson learned, and have spare parts on hand in case I or anyone else needs.

 

Junkyard filter looks brand new, considerably cheaper option too, thanks for the encouragement

 

I re-zip-tied my driver's side fender back onto my tundra. I think that's a good enough excuse to post a photo. Feat. my WiP 2JZ swap first-gen Taco.

 

I got most of my rear seal stuff from RA. Beck and arnley I believe. I'd definitely go oem, as when I have to do it FOR THE 4TH FUCKING TIME, I'm going oem on everything. If I have a bent axle I'm blaming @alb1k for not giving me more info. Damn lifeguards...

 

Cleaned my seats.

 

What in fuck's sake was that in the center of the bottom cushion of the driver's seat?

 

Those lifeguards suck. But, I fixed my axles and realized I also bent a wheel. So….shit.

 

That’s where balls sit.