What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

@jpink let me swap tires for 13WL test fitment as I still have 13WE front calipers.




There's just a splash of red poking through on his powerstops which I think is pretty cool.




A gnat's cock worth of clearance.

@FirstGenVol drove my truck, and told me that he thinks my stiff brake pedal is from seized calipers. That made everything click into place in my nugget. That explains why it comes, and goes. It also explains why when a seized piston/caliper breaks free the front end of the truck nose dives hard core.

I've just been putting a little extra foot into the pedal to make do...

So, moving forward with continual progress... @jpink gave me a set of extra 13WL rotors from his refresh that weren't bad, and had been sitting in storage since October. Plenty of life left on them. Also gave me a set of recently changed pads, and anti-squeal shims he didn't need as a 2005 DC. I ordered a set of rebuild kits for my 13WE calipers, and a set of Powerstop 13WL calipers with a discount code for an absolute rock bottom price.

The plan moving forward is as follows:

1. Install new 13WL.
2. Bleed.
3. Rebuild my 13WE calipers.
4. Box up my old calipers, and rotors. Label 13WE SMOL, and keep as a back up.

 

Yikes, don't get a rock in thar.

 

Didn't even consider that, but feck it.

 

PTR20-35110-BK (black) with the K02 All Terrain wouldn't look bad on there, but your current wheels are also nice.

 

Finally got around to replacing the back door window latches on the Tundra. Whoever machined these really made a tight fit on the side that pivots the latch on the window side. Glad I had a ball-peen hammer and punch to do it otherwise I’d be cutting that hole just slightly bigger.

 

Is it just me or does the one on the right seem wider?

 

I'd still like an 04 DC with a supercharger to trailer my AC to the trails someday. That way I don't have to fear having too good of a time and limping home 5 hours lol

 

My sequoia has towed everything i can throw at it like a champ. And for a 2wd its a billygoat, climbed in and out of lots of river trails, and never wiggled or anything during the icepocalypse of feb.

 

The extra traction to the rear tires from the weight of the cab probably helps a lot vs a 2wd pickup

 

I dont know if it came with lsd, but when the diff was replaced they put an lsd in it. Sometimes i hang it way out on rainy days.

 

I put my tundra in a ditch that way once but she crawled right out unscathed. Mine came with LSD.

 

So an update on this...

1. The idle has settled back to where it should be after a day or two:
2. New bypass hoses and clamps from McGeorge solved the leak problem. (Note to self - whenever opening coolant hose/clamps that have been unmolested for ~ 17 years just assume they'll never go back together the same way and buy new to begin with).
3. While I thought the P0420 code was related (because it never happened before, and only started literally the same day I did the other work), it turns out not to be the case!

I did some googling around, and crawled under my truck and saw that the rear driver's side O2 sensor nuts had turned to dust. The sensor was opening up at the gasket. (I was planning to change all the O2 sensors, but not now!). Intermittent P0420 codes predict this very failure, especially on 1st Gen Tundras and Sequoias. Here's the quick fix:

1. Remove the shield, sensor, gasket (or remnants thereof).
2. Hit the studs with PB blaster, and chase them clean with an M8 x 1.25 die
3. Get a new gasket at Autozone, NAPA, wherever (The right thing to do is get a new Denso, but that's a project for another day)
4. Go to Ace Hardware (or wherever) and get M8 x 1.25 stainless steel nuts and washers (get extra, you can sacrifice a nut if you don't have a die).
5. Put it all back together, using anti-seize so I can get it back apart again when the new sensors arrive.

 

Missionary, they're doing it wrong.

 

They are, but maybe there's one more person under the truck not pictured. Eww.

 

Fun fact. Those calipers are almost identical to 2nd gen Tacoma and 3rd gen Tacoma calipers. The only difference is the line location. So if the wheel clears a 3rd gen, it’ll clear yours

 

Good deal! Thanks for the extra confirmation. I'll stick this info in my note pad thread. Any reason to go up to 17" rims then?

 

Better tire selection

 

Prepping for 14wa calipers?

 

13WL

 

... I meant as a reason to go 17's

 

I think at 17 you’re legally required to call em rims, and 18 or bigger you have to pronounce it rimz.

 

Naw, just more clearance is all I was considering. Now, if my booster went out, and price of a direct replacement was roughly the same cost as the T100 booster that @Thrussn used on his....

 

Do all the OEM calipers have rebuild kits? I never bothered to check.

 

I ordered a set of seal kits from rockauto. Not sure if it's everything I need, but I'm gonna attempt to rebuild my 13WEs, and keep as back ups. If I can't rebuild them, I'll send them to roack auto for a core charge

If I did end up sending them back, that means I've only spent $100~ish on the 13WL power stop calipers, and two seal kits thanks to discount code that was single use unfortunately...

 

Anyone have a part number handy for 1st gen water pump? I'll commence searching.

Perhaps this guy?
16100-09201

 

Not to downplay the humor, but that's technically a 'box', not a 'donk' or 'bubble'. Any truly cultured person knows the difference.