Let's see 1st gen with Toyota Rims

First post, wow haven’t been part of any forums in ages seems like. Anyways I’m trying to see what you guys have been able to get away with on the 17x7.5 stock wheels(4Runner/Tacoma). Here is a pic, I recently got it. Since it came with these wheels trying to see the most I can get away with without modding. I’ll eventually add a 3” lift all around, previous owner towed, so it has Firestone air in the rear.

 

Nice looking truck! Cap has sliders and windoors, the holy grail. 3" lift is aggressive with these trucks, 2-2.5" is close to the limit without spending some serious cash to correct the angles.

 

I've never seen windoor sliders in that style. Pretty cool.

Helpful reading for a browse...

 

Thanks that was a very helpful read!

I appreciate the feedback!

Thanks for the read! A lot of great info!

 

Hello all, looking for some advice on wheels. I picked up this 2002 4WD AC earlier this year and looking for new wheels and tires. I found these on Craigslist. I love the look and seems like they would fit nicely with a 5100 and OME 2884 leveling lift and some 265/75 R16's. Anyone see any reason why these wouldn't work?

 

Size / offset: 16x8 +0 offset = 4.5" backspace

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4.5" backspace is pushing out pretty far, out to the edge or maybe a smidge beyond the fender flare edge, but given your tire size provided:

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At only 31.6" overall diameter, it'd be roughly the same as running a 265/70r17 (31.6") on 17s.

To put that in context, my original set of wheels were also 4.5" backspace (@ 17x9) with 275/70r17 (32.2"). I wasn't happy with the rub, but it was only rubbing part the front flaps, nothing else.

I'm currently running the same tire size but with 4.75" backspace (@17x8.5) and was rubbing a hair less, but ultimately trimmed the flaps to resolve that issue. I'd be shocked if you had the same issue with a 31.6" diameter tire, even with the "more-pokey" 4.5" backspace.

There a solid chance it'd look pretty good. I don't think many are running those wheels on here.

 

PS - I wish you were closer, I'd sell you my basically new wheels at a nice discount, would only be a few bucks more AND you'd get a 5th as a full size spare: https://www.tundras.com/threads/new...st-946g-gunmetal-6-lug-17x9-12-offset.130803/

 

Man I can't believe how hard of a time I'm having wrapping my head around this tire/wheel fitment thing - it's surprisingly complicated. I was looking around for examples of land cruisers with that wheel and found this inspiring land cruiser. Thanks for the feedback @Shifty!

 

I get it. I struggle too, believe me. I'm not gonna lie, I've gotta look this shit up every time, unless I recently bought wheels and it's fresh in my brain. It really sucked 15, 20, 30 years ago before these online tools existed and you're stuck using math, or picking the local tire store guy's brain.

I try to write the easily forgettable stuff down in this thread, like the backspacing info, what stock sizes are, what's worked with aftermarket on other people's trucks. Someone's gotta log all that shit somewhere, eh?

But I just can't and never have been able to do the math on backspacing or tire width/diameter so I have these tools bookmarked, one for offset/backspace, one for . It makes it way the hell easier.

There is a thread that will give you ideas about "poke" and what to expect over here.

That Land Cruiser is running 285/75r16 (32.8") which is a "near-33", same size as 285/70r17, which is what a bunch of dudes on here are running without needing to hammer pinch welds or cut things (except for a couple of DC guys, I guess DC geometry is diff't from us with superior cab types). Only posting this in case it helps you with "meat" factor, trying to figure out where you want to be in the heft. I personally wouldn't want to drag that extra weight around and think your truck could look great in 265/75r16.

 

Landcruisers came with the 275/70/16 tires. Oddball size really. Harder to find and more expensive but looked cool. My wheels are 4.5" backspacing and I added a 1.25" spacer to them. Effectively 3.25" of backspacing. They fit fine with 265/75/16s. Yours should fit fine. And yes it's confusing, but more backspacing is less poke. So 4.75" backspacing is further inside the wheel wells than 4.5". Mine stick out quite a bit with my now 3.25" backspacing but only rubbed a little on the mud flap with a 2" or so lift from the 5100s. Mild trimming fixed it.

 

One of my New Year's resolutions is now to understand the difference between offset and backspacing . Really cool to be able to find so much valuable information on this forum so thanks for writing all that easily forgettable stuff down - we are all benefitting. I'm in the same boat - as cool as I think that Cruiser looks I wouldn't really be able to pull that look

 

Oh man now I'm having highschool flashbacks: If you and KNABORES both have 16x8 wheels with 4.5 backspacing and 265/75 R16 tires but KNABORES adds a 1.25 spacer does his wheel stick out:
a) 1.25" further,
b.) -10mm farther
c.) +10mm less,
d.) it depends

but that's great to see what your truck looks like with basically the same setup plus the spacer. That's about what I'm aiming for.

 

This explains it fairly well: https://www.theautopian.com/heres-t...ing-so-you-can-finally-stop-arguing-about-it/

The short version is: Offset is where the mounting part sits in the wheel. If dead center, that’s zero offset. If more to the outside lip or inside lip it’s either negative or positive.

Backspace is simply the measure from the mounting part to the rear lip of the wheel. Because wheels can be different widths, the measure between the mounting portion of the wheel and rear lip can vary. 17x7 wheel with -12 offset will have a different backspace than a 17x8 wheel with the same offset because there’s an added 1” between the lips, and you’re measuring to the lip, so….

And the answer to your question is (A). He is adding 1.25” to the ‘back’ of the mounting plate of the wheel, pushing the wheel out 1.25” more, thus reducing the space from the ‘back’ mounting plate of the wheel, therefore 4.5” - 1.25” (or whatever Google says is 1.25” in millimeters… if I recall 1” is 25.4 mm, thus it’d be somewhere in the ballpark of 31mm) so 3.25”. But it’s late enough I’m not even gonna try to remember if that’s negative or positive offset. Math and I aren’t friends after 3pm, if ever. I reserve the right to be stupid and absent minded at any given time. Or all the time, here lately.

 

Negative offset means more poke. Just like how chicks love the guys who treat them the worst. Another cheat is that most OEM wheels are positive offset and those with the lower positive offset are therefore more desirable as they are less likely to rub with bigger tires.

 

wow great explanation, that actually makes sense. But also concerning because I'm not sure I'd want KNABORES look minus 1.25" so now I'm back to the drawing board. If you haven't seen this it's pretty funny and requires no math.

 

Oh right, i almost forgot I have to think about rubbing on the other side too..

 

Yup. More poke (lower backspace) means the inner edge of the tire may rub the flap, and the outer edge may grab the fender flare. More tuck (higher backspace) puts you at risk of rubbing the suspension and/or frame.

Again, there's a sweet spot. Here's my observation with my '06 AC which should be same as the RC, but maybe different from DC (putting that there for full disclosure). Of course, some of the following can be either eliminated with custom alignment, adjusting caster specifically, or aftermarket suspension parts. I'm running near-OEM on camber/caster/toe, and the following was my experience.

• 4.5" BS looks good, basically flush or a tad poked past the front fender flare if the width is in the typical aftermarket widths of 8.5" - 9", the higher that number is, the more you may poke past the flare a bit. You'll probably rub your flaps if running ballpark 31"-32". You will rub flaps around ~33", and maybe kiss frame.
• 5.0" BS is same as OEM, at OEM width (7.5") you're going to be inset/tucked about an inch. I wouldn't want to run anything wider than 7.5" at this backspace, it's far enough inset toward the frame that I'd be genuinely worried about rubbing tire-to-spring. Secondarily, rubbing the frame at full lock.
• 4.75" BS seems to be that sweet spot in between both of the above.

It was really hard for me to believe a small tolerance of 0.25" really makes that much of a difference. I think there's some 4D chess going on here simply because you're also having to factor in a spinning object, of increasing diameter (30.6" stock, with upsize options at 31.6", 32.2", 32.8" if you're running 17s and a couple of those options exist in 16s also), and that spinning object can be variable widths depending on what it's mounted to. So when you increase the width of said spinny thing from 7.5" to 9", suddenly that 0.25" of backspacing could be adding at least 0.75" more into the mix.

Not the expert on offset and backspacing. I'm sure there's someone on here - maybe in the wheels and tires subforum - that could answer to the math, or is a bit more of a 4d chess wizard, geometry/trig genius or whatever.

 

The spacer helped with bringing the wheel out to the edge of the larger limited fender flares. Otherwise the 4.5” backspacing was was probably right at the edge of the wheel well with no flares. They were tucked when I first got them and I wasn’t crazy about the look. Probably only needed about an 0.75-1” but 1.25” is what I found. They stick out just barely.

 

Another shot of the factory wheels with new tires. Still haven’t seen these much anywhere.

 

Just keep in mind that if you go with a lift and larger tires, then it’s going to be more difficult to load and unload your lumber rack. You might also have to install platforms under your work boots to reach over the top of the bed rail sides. But if you don’t really ever use the truck for work, then it won’t be a big deal. You will notice the power loss from the larger tires though.

 

So I learned why there's not many people running 80 series Landcruiser wheels on here! There's a rub, but not one that I even knew to be worried about. I got the wheels on and was so excited to try out the new tie rod ends I had just put in that, like a dumbass, didn't think to try to spin the wheels by hand before driving and gouged some nice clean 2 mm troughs into the back of the perfectly powder coated wheels with the brake calipers. Now I have some decisions to make but how are people ensuring that any wheels are not going to have this problem before buying them?

 

Caliper rub is a legit thing that's happened to a few people on here, but I think I've only ever seen it with one set of wheels in the past, and I don't recall any OEM wheels doing it. I thought it was only (IIRC) on the later model trucks with 13WL calipers, but clearly may not be the case.

It's so infrequent, I wouldn't even have thought to ask, especially w/OEM wheels. When you asked about rub, I thought you were specifically asking about contact with frame and/or suspension.

 

I was definitely asking about he frame/suspension rub - caliper rub was not even on my radar! It sounds like I just got unlucky with these ones.

 

Clearance is pretty tight: https://www.tundras.com/threads/who...undra-v8-4-7-need-to-know-caliper-size.93003/

There is some chatter about 16 and how they will or won't fit here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/vision-soft-8.39596/

Additionally, suggestion that if you toss on a spacer it may resolve but I think you said spacers are a no-go? (they definitely are a no-go for me)

 

Where’s it rubbing on the caliper? Depending upon the area, you can easily grind down the caliper a smidge.

 

Trying to decide between going all in with spacers or just cutting my losses and trying to sell the newly defiled rims. By the time I buy the spacers I'd be over 1K into the wheels and they're already pretty much even with the fender flares so I'd be sticking out even further, plus the safety concerns.

 

yeah I've been going down that caliper grinding rabbit hole - seems about as controversial as spacers lol. It looks like I'd need to take off a couple of mm to be flush then a couple more for clearance..

 

You can see here where it scraped, the freshly milled wheels and how it looked mounted

 

Yoinks. Yeah Either grind the caliper, or spacers, or abandon. That's heinous, and I feel like we should all pitch in $5 for our fallen homey who just increased the collective knowledge of the group on this one...

 

Damn, that sucks! I got a fiver I'll pitch in for sure. I went ahead and ordered some 1.25 spacers from Amazon for mine in case I need them.