What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I replaced the right side steering rack support bushing this morning. Even my impact wouldn't break the bottom nut loose. I used a strongbar and then added a 3 foot extension and it still took all my weight just to get it to move a wee bit. Once I got it moving the impact took over and did the job. So far so good, until I tried sliding the clamp over the new bushing. The end result was I took the clamp to the grinder and ground everything shiny smooth then applied a thin coat of grease to it. It still took some effort but she finally went on far enough I could start the bottom nut. The upper bolt was a little more difficult but she finally started and I was able to tighten it all down. What a PITA! Up next, intermediate carrier bearing/support and rear u-joint.

 

No, you can run each pod off of a single channel of the amp. Just have to purchase speakers in an impedance that works for your wiring setup

 

One rear door completed and re-installed. Also took this opportunity to check all the hardware in the door to make sure everything was snugged up.

 

I zoomed in to see if your cuticles are Hand Model approved. Too blurry to tell.

 

How much are you thinking for the spindles and bearings?

 

This forum has made me very cautious of both my feet and fingernails whenever I take pictures.

 

I'm proud of you for keeping your door sills clean

 

Maybe…

 

Do it

 

Yeah maybe. Got the space for it. Will probably need (at minimum) parts of it soon.

You can run multiple speakers off one channel. You just need to make sure the calculated impedance of those speakers jibes with what your amp will tolerate per channel. A lot of restaurants will have half a dozen or more speakers running off one single channel on an amp. The brewery I wired up had 12 speakers total on a 2-channel amp. Not identical situation but …

You just need to know, wiring in parallel will lower the impedance #, wiring in series will raise the impedance #, and you can mix parallel and series circuits freely to arrive at the final number you desire. Oh, and you want to use an amp that will fuel the total wattage demand of your speakers.

I honestly think a 6x9 coaxial/biaxial would sound f’n awesome in that spot. And would probably fit nicely. I can’t believe that opening is unique, surely Toyota made another vehicle with that bolt pattern and hole?

You can do better! Cut the hole in the board out a bit larger than the sub basket and drop a 3/8” thick ring inside to flush-mount it. Then route out a topper board of MDF to mount over it all for cone travel support. How much space do you have between magnet and floor using the baffle board there, with that driver?

 

Hey Frenchy, following up (after a year), how did this method work for you?

 

So hoping this might be the issue with my cat code. One of the cat gaskets has almost completely rusted away. Adding a couple Remflex gaskets for good measure.

 

Haha that took me a while to think about when I did this, might need to check and make sure I tightened them…..

It worked well, I wish my spc uppers had a zerk to make the job easier

 

Did you make gaskets or they sell them?

 

They sell them but didn’t know gaskets were bad so haven’t ordered new ones. Had an old lightly used one I saved a while back. Using that and remnants of a remflex sheet to see if it’ll do the job till I order new ones.

 

I was hoping to achieve +3.0 of caster with JBA UCA. Lift total 2.25 with Fox DSC. Thoughts...

 

2.4 and 2.7 is fairly close but it would be better if they were at the same level. @assassin10000 once told me that split caster can cause a pull. Is it driving straight?

 

Ain’t no baffle board gonna do for me. Building the ugliest box I’ve ever built to fit in the cubby. Been mocking it up with 1x material and then cutting out in MDF that I’m stealing from the sub boxes we are no longer using from the stang. And yes, it will be flush mounted so the seat doesn’t hit it when folded down. I’ll also add some small furniture feet to the seat bottom to keep it from fully closing on the speaker. Ran out of donor wood, gotta go to the sto

 

Haven't driven highways speeds yet but at 40mph Its driving straight. Ill report back

I came across an old thread online saying the below specs are ideal for modified 1st gens. I probably fo back and have them set them to this exact specs.

 

Sorry for such a delayed response, still haven't wrapped up this project. Seeing that the generic black trim I bought is 1/4 the price I think that's the route I'll go for now, but its awesome to know replacement flares are available.

 

Some front door action. Used almost 3 sheets on the inside of the door skin. Closes with a more satisfying thud now.

 

Where do you buy the black sticky stuff to put the plastic back on the door skin? Mine’s kind of dried up.

 

It’s called butyl, you can buy it by the roll

 

It’s Urethane weather strip adhesive. It’s a sticky messy goo that turns to rubber basically. Hard to use on a vertical surface. Supposed to apply some, let it get tacky, then stick.

 

This is probably the actual product. This stuff in the tube is more for sticking weather strip pieces that won’t stay back on.

 

It’s common in the headlight retrofit world. Maybe you’re right too though.

 

Got my roll from our Napa that’s about 1/4” wide. Basically same stuff Toyota used. Same adhesion affect and same difficulty in removing as original.

 

Butyl has a lot of formulations. The tarry stuff on the back of sound deadening sheets is butyl also, but softer/tackier than headlight stuff.

Morimoto makes Retrorubber, which is what I keep a roll of for resealing headlights. It's far less tacky and more like the texture of a tootsie roll. I don't find the formulation soft enough to work with. It acts like a glue that hardens 80-90% when heated, and you don't want the vapor barrier sticky stuff to harden.

Resonix is the product I'm familiar with to use on the door card clips and rattly spots like the plastic inserts on the door card, you can also use it for the plastic vapor barrier.

You can find generic @scAmazon, "Butyl Sealant Tape", it's an easy to apply roll that's more like OEM.

 

Anyone ever get this trim piece replaced on their shell? I just got my whole camper shell resealed to stop a couple smaller leaks, now the shell sits a bit higher until the new seal along the rails settle, but still have this little gap where the trim is broke on the end