What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Should probably pull a few more plugs eh?

 

Need to borescope the cylinder for sure to see cylinder walls, cylinder surface, valves, check for remaining debris and even the spark plug threads. Would also check the oil for glitter.

 

Yeah, I'll be shocked if that cylinder is salvageable.

 

That center insulator looks like it's poked out 1/4' farther than it should be.
I'll start chanting and meditating for a good outcome for you...

 

Dont say that

 

Whatever came off the plug probably just burnt up completely and cleanly, exiting thru the exhaust. Trying to be unrealistically optimistic here.

 

Sorry man, but that's the truth.

Its worth inspecting and seeing what you've got.

$18 USB Snake Inspection Camera, FANTRONICS USB C Borescope, Scope Camera with 8 LED Lights for (16.4ft) OTG Android Phone, Windows PC, MacBook

A cheap amazon scope would take all the mystery out of it.

 

I’ve got one but it’s at my house 25 miles away.

 

Completely possible to bounce out the exhaust with minimal damage if you are lucky.

Got someone to run you home or run it out to you from home? Otherwise uber/lyft round trip?


I've had a friend try autolite plugs in their honda ONCE. Immediately fried the ignition coil due to wrong resistance.


Ngk or denso only for imports.

 

Just found one near me for $30 on FB marketplace. New in box. Waiting for a response

 

Haven’t heard this before.
No Bosch?

 

You need to read the mega thread!!!
https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

I got my Iridium Densos from Advance Auto Parts.

It's NGK for me, unless it's Denso. Fuck everyone else. Advance Auto carries both brands.

 

I’ve never seen that on a n/a engine. You running boost or nitrous?

non-vvti engines call for copper plugs.

 

@shifty` @JakeJake @KNABORES @assassin10000 @anyoneelse
How does that happen? I first got a p0171 code, then just misfire codes but; Is it possible that a lean condition would cause a plug to fail like that?

 

A plug firing too hot would cause the electrode to melt off and explode. Defective part will do it. Best guess that's what happened if you're running Denso coil packs.

It happened to me on a catering box truck I was driving back from catering someone's Bar Mitzvah in Melbourne FL while working for a catering company in central FL. We had to bail and leave the truck on the side of the road, had already worked a 16hr shift, driving inclusive, and we were all too tired to deal with it at the time. But even then, only the very tip of the hooked ground electrode was toast, the center electrode was mushroomed, and part of the ceramic had cut burned into it. Yours looks like you melted it threads and all.

 

So you’re saying I could throw a new plug in it and run it. Good as new. Gotcha. Another shitty part- I never did find a vacuum leak

 

A lean mixture can generate enough heat to get things melty, as can poor valve sealing, and to far advanced advanced ignition timing. Probably a cascade of failures as it continued to run.

Like @Sirfive said, not really common in NA engines. We sometimes forget that these things are just controlled explosions With the right air/fuel/timing jet fuel can melt steel beams.

 

Send it (with video)

or

inspect it, then send it.

 

You asking if it were me?

I'd scope the cylinder to make sure there's nothing in it.

If it's not clear, I'd vacuum it.
If it was clear, I'd pop a plug in it and send it.

When I got home, I'd mark that coil pack with a scratch in the top, proceed to pull every damn plug and put new NGK or Denso in it, then reinstall that coil pack on another cylinder.

I'd check the plug in that one cylinder with the scratched coil pack in 1k-2k miles, and the plug in the cylinder that just had the plug disintegrate and make sure they both look OK.

EDIT: Only reason I recommend marking that coil pack is for reference later. By putting it on another cylinder, you can monitor that plug and know if it's too hot because the coil pack is failing, and you can monitor the spark plug on the cylinder that had the issue just the same, in case it's something specific to that cylinder, like running lean.

 

His warboy grabbed the nitro bottle instead of the guzzoline.

 

I did vacuum it out with a small vac with a tube and clean canister. Nothing came out into the vac

 

Cylinder 4 and cylinder 2, respectively.

 

I’m hoping the threads in the head will accept a new plug and keep sealed

 

I did also have a misfire on cylinder 7. Gonna check that coil and plug and if it’s good, I’ll drop a plug in cylinder 2 and see what happens.

 

I have never had good luck with platinum or iridium plugs in my 4.7. I have no clue why. Never had anything detonate on me like that, but they are always trashed after 30,000 miles.

 

I've run 2 sets of Iridium NGK plugs in mine and two sets of copper NGK's. The truck does like the coppers, but runs fine on the iridiums a well. I did get what must have been a set of counterfeit iridiums on Scamazone one time because it ran like crap, misfired and didn't want to start. Swapped for coppers and she purred like a kitten. Running Iridiums now with no issues.

 

The copper plugs do great as far as smooth running, especially in the single digit temperatures. You can burn them down to the porcelain and never know it by engine performance. They don't last long though, even using the non-metallic anti-seize.

I'm going to use the dual electrode plugs next time. They worked great in the 5UZ. We'll see

 

For euro's yes. Otherwise no.

Use what the engine/ignition is designed for.


I'd replace all those plugs.

 

Hand sanitizer