What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Ok, so Denso clearly works. Here's what I paid for mine from RA (this part is for us). I know, not ideal $$$ but they last 15-20 years, so you won't be buying again soon.

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And this sensor DiscountTire installed appears to be 100% compatible with the TPMS ECU in my 2006. Maybe it'll work for you and cost less. I've actually got 4 of them that are a few months old (used) in my hand right now I'm happy to let go of.

It's the Continental REDI-Sensor, model # SE10007 (this part)

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I'm leery of replacing my battery terminals with any of the really cool looking ones that would clean up the wiring due to this very problem.

 

And on the DiscountTire topic, found the first fuckup when I pulled the Method wheels out of the bed.

Random alloy washer. Of course, it's for a TPMS sensor. This should be really damn fun to get back on without blowing the seal on the sensor and deflating the tire. If I can figure out which one it was, guess I'll jack it up, deflate the tire to release pressure, them manage. Lame.

This is why I hate people touching my vehicles.

 

I wish someone made a 4 gauge upgrade of the cables and grounds similar to these.

 

I made my own out of 2/0, but there are these:

https://www.jeepcables.com/products/toyota-tundra-big-7-battery-cable-kit-gen-1-2000-2006

or through

@baraynavab

 

TURNS OUT THAT IT WAS A 5 AMP FUSE UNDER MY DASH HAD BLOWN AND AFFECTED EVERYTHING.... CRAZY!

 

Thanks for posting that. I've learned to not even use my wiper fluid while I'm driving unless I want most of it to end up on my driver side window, dripping into the cab if the window's open. I try to only use it when I'm not moving. I just ordered these. Excited to see the improvement.

 

Shit, I got so tied up today I totally forgot I read this. I was going to tell you to check EFI 1 and EFI 2 fuses. Which one was it, in reality?

 

@baraynavab does, actually. He's a good guy, I've dealt with him in the past.

 

Oh, and hat trick post here.

Not apples to apples angles here, but here's 285/75r17 (32.9") versus 275/75r17 (32.5") on the same truck, same wheels, same lift. You'd see a slight width difference from behind, but honestly, that half inch (er, quarter inch top & bottom) of added tire diameter is negligible to me, visually.

Wildpeak AT3W in 285:



Mickey Baja Legend EXP in 275:

 

Another angle, 285 first, 275 second.

 

@shifty` & @des2mtn , tu both for pointing out a source for upgraded cables and grounds!

 

Personally, I like the silver wheels over the gold.

 

Shifty.... Not looking at it now it was the 5A in the middle - related to dash operations (weird how many things are tied to it...) Number 23

 

Yup, I forgot there was a dash fuse tied to MP/SMP EFI. 23 in the 2002s handles SRS airbag, fuel injection system, discharge system, ignition system. I would expect with that fried, you wouldn't get ignition or fuel.

 

It's a great improvement and takes all of maybe 10 minutes or less to do. I should have done them sooner

 

Do you have a part number for the FJ nozzles? Thanks!

 

Start here, but continue reading the replies that follow it: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1776#post-3408207

IIRC, simply updating to the 2006 year spray nozzles is the same part number as FJ, and more of a fan pattern.

 

Sure thing, you need two x 85381-34030

 

Painted my rear bumper, it was replaced by the previous owner but never painted. Looks a million times better now.

 

The infamous step side!

 

So, 2 other changes I've noticed since changing out injectors and logging some seat-time to allow the ECU to relearn is, 1, the slight lag in throttle response/transmission engagement at very low speeds while turning a sharp corner is gone, and, 2, the shift from 2nd to 3rd is higher up in the rpm range. May be other things I haven't noticed yet, but those 2 things definitely stand out.

 

I'll preface this by saying, not trying to piss on your upgrade with this comment, so don't take this my reply wrong way.

A lot of what you're describing can be attributed to swapping out some very, very tired and dirty 230,000 mile injectors with brand new injectors. It's clearly a great upgrade for that reason alone.

That said, I gained some solid perspective from this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1zq1Dl_IhM#t=8m15s​

 

I don't disagree, and no offense taken. Just sharing my experience for the sake of other high-mileage owners who may be on the fence and some of what to reasonably expect.

 

I've been teetering on it and I've only got ~80k.

 

Installed some Firestone RideRite bags on the Tundra today. Reason is because with the bed shell and tools/misc. in the bed, I was getting a little bit of squat. No bueno. However, I was really liking the braking performance with a bit of squat. Question is: If I adjust the LSPV, can I achieve the same amount of brake performance? If I understand the adjustment, it should be initially set at 4.72" from axle nut to arm nut. I think I understand that if I shorten that, I will increase braking, as if there is a load on. Is this correct thinking?

 

Replaced window mouldings front drivers and front passenger. The replaced the hose to hose, turbo brass, over priced thingy. It was a plastic T fitting with a cap. Probably gain like 5.25 HP from this mod!.YB!

 

80k? I doubt very much you would any performance benefits from replacement, so not a good value for the $. Besides, don't you have some tires or wheels to buy?

Seriously, you're better off taking your wife or wife & family out to dinner.

 

The higher up towards the bed the arm is, the more braking power it will apply to the rear.