What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I'm basically down to running amp power, then RCAs, to answer that exact question. I can't wait, I've been bassless for far too long.

 

Yeah, may be the crippling depression at play too

See if I can save you some legwork here. SSA sells these baffle boards in 2-sub and 3-sub flavor: https://store.soundsolutionsaudio.c...and-double-cab-truck-dual-8-subwoofer-baffle/

Here's one example of installation, and some other options: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-tundra-double-cab-subwoofer.57865/

And "Yes!" to answer your question. Time is flying by faster it seems. And my brain can't seem to catch up.

 

Thank you Shifty. That will save me time for sure. From what I can see, you seem to be weathering the crush of time reasonably well.

 

I may be biased on that one!

 

Anyone remove the backwall plastic on their DC? How much room we got back there? Enough for a couple of powered slim underseat subs perhaps? One of these days, I'll get around to removing it and checking myself. Meh.

 

Pretty much no room at all... I took mine off thinking I could mount my Weboost underneath one of the storage pockets, but the OEM JBL amp uses all of the available real estate.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/remove-panel-behind-rear-seats-in-dc.88283/#post-2220719

 

Thanks for that link. Saves me the hassle of trying to remove the panel. Guess I'll keep rocking the sub box behind the passenger side front seat. No biggie. I hardly ever have passengers in my spacious luxurious DC. LOL

 

I removed mine this week in search of room for an amp. I don't see there being room for subs. I'll post pictures tomorrow. I'm planting my sub under the back seat similar to what Shifty showed today.

 

This reminds me … one of my 1st orders of business once I go hot with audio will be pulling the back seat and slathering the wall in 80 mil or 120mil deadener. I stuck my hand up behind the seat today… knocked … PING PING PING. Sounds like hollow tin back there. And it’s light! I expected better. I’m guessing 40-60% coverage on the back wall is goi g to have a HUGE difference on interior acoustics.

If I knew AC rear seat removal was a 5min affair, enough to roll on deadener, I’d do it tomorrow.

 

it’s about an 8 minute affair. I’ve had mine out several times. Think it’s two or 3 bolts at the bottom then just lift.

 

Well shit I may do it tomorrow. I think I might’ve gotten the flu from the youngest tho. Will know by morning. 2/3 of his class mysteriously came down with it, Wednesday, within 4 hours of each other. I picked him up, he was #3 to go home. One went in to doc 24 hours later and dunno how they tested him, but said “Flu-A”. Meh.

 

I have the dual 8 sub box that can be installed under the seat still. I guess I could get rid of the single 10 I'm running and throw 2 slim 8s in it. Last time I did, it made the plastic under the seat rattle but I guess I could throw a spacer block under there to make some space.

This one.
https://caraudiofactory.com/2004200...-p-283.html?osCsid=7fgjcu57vjrcq27ku6frdl2eh3

 

Anyone know of any seat lifts for the heavy-ass rear seats on the DC? I know seat jackers has lift blocks for the front seats but I haven't found anything for the 60/40 bench in the back. Thanks.

Front seat:
https://desertdoesit.com/collections/toyota/products/front-seat-jackers-2000-2006-tundra

Front seat rear bolts:
https://desertdoesit.com/collection...at-jackers-2000-2006-tundra-2001-2007-sequoia

 

I'm thinking non removable slider. Haven't confirmed if it is removable for sure or not.

 

I always wonder if these sound very good. Seems awfully tedious to install, but a good way to keep everything hidden. I keep my amp for my single 12 in that compartment and the sub is in the driver side rear seat. I don't carry people often so it's worked for me so far.

 

@RareRed Dood, grill looks great!

 

Not trying to rack up my post count, I'm just forgetful

I've only driven it a couple times but yeah it's all good now, I just hate driving it unless the weather is bad enough to need it. It draws as much attention as a Ferrari because of the nonstop squeal from the vacuum/intake leak plus it's slow compared to my daily.

 

@SateenC1 Thanks for those pics!

I think I'll try throwing a single sub and sealing the other sub hole on my dual 8 sub box for the drivers side underseat storage cubby. The box has very little airspace. Not enough for two decent 8 inch subs that would fit with the restricted mounting depth. We'll see how it compares to my current single 10 in a truck wedge box.

 

You're welcome.

 

Actually, after watching this, it seems it probably is a quick thing to manage. Four bolts, then lift off 2-3 hooks? I assume my '06 will be similar.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qk0yMdMdWoo

 

Yea its extremely easy to remove, a couple bolts and then off the hooks if i remember. All i know is it took me just a couple minutes

 

5 bolts along the bottom for my '06, 12mm.

I've been spiking from low grade up to fever all day, managed to sweat thru this over 3 attacks. Little over ~50% coverage, w/some overlaps in extra-tinny sounding places. Pics, and a bonus pic in case anyone needs to see what the rear slider motor etc. and wiring looks like later down the road.

Lining up that seat to get all 4 hooks in the right place with that center belt is a freaking chore. Upper hooks I had to loosen to get the black plastic sheet off, 14mm. Center bolt I had to pull to install over the hole, 14mm.

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Thoughts on this cat shield?

https://www.fsperformanceengineerin...verter-guard-2000-2006?variant=40394359603246

 

Do you have the rare power sliding window? It also looks like your center seatbelt is a real one? My center seatbelt in the back is only a lap belt.

 

Real slider. Real center shoulder belt. I think it's just a year difference thing, 00-'02 vs. '03-'06 or '00-'04 vs. '05-'06

 

What's the silver box in the middle, next to the seatbelt?

 

Round part the arrow is pointing at is the motor for the rear window. Looks like it uses a cable system inside a coated steel sheath (going up from there). The silver box holds the motor in place. The line/loom off to the left is the power source for the window motor.

I'm realizing in hindsight, I wasn't thinking clearly while down there. I should've taken time to clean out the sliding window track and all that jazz.

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Yeah that's what I figured. I thought you were saying it was a normal manual sliding window. The power slider is cool. I'm jelly.