What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I think you kind of are looking for what I had before I put the tailpipe on. Definitely a rad bassy sound however, a little turn down or something would back off some of the volume because it did have that. I’m finding that the piping is just as influential as the muffler.

 

Sometimes I really wish I had an exhaust that’s loud… all the time actually.

And then, I go for a 30+ min drive on the highway and remember why I replaced everything with OEM. Silent is nice. I’ve got a whole other vehicle for being loud.

 

FOUR CLAPS OR GTFO

 

Did it work? OMG I'm surprised I haven't set an airbag off pounding on my dash trying to find a squeak! I'll get you one day....

 

Four Loko??

 

Ah, so you're not aware of the little dicks in yer dash, eh? https://www.tundras.com/threads/dash-squeak-diagnosis.93688/

 

Never heard of that but…that’s what I’ve…been looking for…all my life? Lol

 

Better in your dash than in your ass!

Throw your back.....er rod into it!

 

https://tenor.com/bnTDm.gif


Okay I’m an idiot and can’t post a gif today

 

I do, mine is a different style Lund job though. They’re a thing of the past and no one makes lense covers for me anymore.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if those lights were some off the shelf trailer or RV part.

 

You have pics or details about that? Done by yourself or at an exhaust shop? Parts used?

As far as I know around here the exhaust shops aren't the best but I keep itching for it to be louder. Even though I have a corvette that's loud as well.

 

Captain Planet/world peas collab

 

Installed 20x9 -12 Rock Trix RT110 wrapped in 245/60 BFG Trail Terrain // plasti dipped all chrome bits to go with the black colorway. Pretty happy with the outcome.

 

Engineering at its finest

 

This will be the last oil change with no skid, so I gotta enjoy it while I can, I still have a plan for when the customé skid gets mounted

 

Fumoto valve, section of tubing from valve to someplace acceptable, wire forward to pull open, wire rearwards to pull closed & never another thought?

 

I’ve got a fumoto already, it would take more than a wire to move the valve handle. The drain is the easy part, it’s the oil filter that should be fun; I designed it to have a removable wing on the driver side, how helpful it’s going to be? We will find out in 5k miles. (170k)

 

Tried getting my brake bleeders off after soaking them for a week in rust penetrant. Looks like a no go. They don’t budge whether tightening or loosening by hand.

Now thinking about buying both an 8 mm and 10 mm impact for the 1/2” drive m18 mid-torque impact wrench.

Anyone ever try it? Amy warnings I should know? Worst case, I’m buying new calipers and rear brake pistons. I’ll try the rears first though.

 

Maravilhosa! Welcome to the forum. I normally don't like blackout, but yours is pretty tasteful.

This reminds me, I need to get off my ass and install the Fumoto...

 

Talk about over kill, lol. Should snap them both right off.

Have you done the torch then spray with penetrant to temp shock it? Usually need to do it a couple times. Then tighten before loosening.

 

Most I have is a propane torch. I don’t think it’s hot enough to do much good. It didn’t even help me break a tie rod free although that’s a much bigger heat mass.

My though was just apply minimal rpms to break it free, not full throttle.

 

Propane should be enough, just takes longer to get to temp. Do 2-3 cycles of heat and penetrant, then try and free them up. Repeat as necessary.

 

Thanks, I’ll give it a shot.

 

I just use 2 grocery bags together to put around the filter to catch oil and unscrew the filter from the top.

 

I definitely saw that suggestion from someone on here just don't remember who. I don't take credit for it.

 

The filter on the Hamster that is under the hood of my Ferd is up top, cartridge filter. Easy peasy lemon squeezy mess free.

 

It didn't stick to your frame crossmember? I have to be quick to move it since it goes from a pour to a dribble and gets diverted when it hits and adheres to the crossmember.

Maybe because I still have the oil cap on the engine? Dunno.

 

Just came up with a possible better idea. Maybe use a hex impact driver instead of the high torque impact wrench? That little driver puts out 16.6-133.3 ft-lbs (200 in-lbs to 1600 in-lbs).

That way I don't have to be concerned about overheating the bleeder and destroying any rubber components behind it for the brake piston assemblies? (only guessing here; I don't remember when I took them apart many years ago).

Regardless, I need to order some Russell speed bleeders to replace the originals first.