What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I can fit at least 10 of these @ 1.32 gal each. Between the bed and bedside. 2 in front of the wheel, 3 behind. Might be able to fit 5 more if i stack above the fuel fill tube.



they're wonky for balance, but 3 each side behind the axle.


thats 8 gallons. If both sides.

 

Now that my midbass is kickin, my window on the driver's side is rattling. It is lose and I wonder if there are other ideas for a fix other than the PHM idea here:

 

Someone needs to create a heated window seal at the top of the window where it sticks in sub-freezing temps.

It's embarrassing having to go through the drive thru and make my order by opening the door and stepping out. Spraying aerospace 303 into the channel on the night before a freeze isn't something I can do every time.

 

In the meantime, found the biggest resonance in the passengers side due to these two metal pieces vibrating:

 

Superglue that shit. Caulk. Something!

 

Clearly my doors werent modified enough. I am going to try a dowel rod inside the door to put pressure btw the inside and outside metal


Actually might be this black plastic:

 

Lookin to be a new cast member on moonshiners or something?

 

tried stuff...passenger side is better with more damping but i think I need to perform the phm fix of tightening up the window on the driver side.

 

I should just keep two or three tailgate handles in stock all the time. Just broke off in my hand today, maybe because of the cold. Got some new organization for my decked system and got a power station for running my lights and keeping my phone charged while camping. Replacement handle comes tomorrow. Shell is still leaking. Bringing it to line-x this week. I give up.

 

Have you put white lithium grease in the latches?

Mine opens with barely any pressure on the handle now.

 

I will certainly do that when I re-install.

 

I really like your storage in the bed.

 

I wonder if part of your problem is the cheap Chinese version latch. I ended up installing an oem white painted one and it was a lot beefier than the scamazon latch I removed.

Or you just have hulk hands and aren’t gentle

 

Thank you! Still figuring out how best to configure everything in the decked, but it's pretty nice. Like today, I had to take a bunch of crap to the dump as I demoed my son's bedroom closet and had to recycle a bunch of boxes. The decked is awesome vs. a camping setup because I can still use my truck like a truck.

 

Fair point. I should just get a Toyota one.

 

I don't recommend redrilling the door like PHM did. The issue is same as the rear vent windows on AC - the seals have shrunk/collapsed enough to allow rattles. Replacing the rubber sweep along the door fixed a lot of the rattles for one person. I think using some backer rod inside the around-the-perimeter seal will fix the rest, so the window gets pinched more.

Ha! Imagine trying to cross a border or agriculture checkpoint with those. Any cop that pulls you over is instantly going to think you're hauling something you shouldn't be!

Buy OEM, all the other crap is plastic, OEM is steel. Need the part number? Your truck info doesn't say if you're DC or AC, which is it? I can pull the # for you.

Also, follow this FFS.

 

@Openbaffle I looked you up, you're DC, here you go:

Painted (black): https://parts.toyota.com/p/63130348/690900C030C0.html
Unpainted: https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2...-4WD/Tailgate-Handle/63480537/690900C010.html

You can get the painted ones paint-matched to your truck. Dealership should be able to help you run down the number. If I knew your paint code, I could probably figure it out.

 

I want to do that level of coverage on my door. But man I dread ever having to change a regulator or the likes then

 

It's really overkill, easily 2x, 3x, maybe 4x what any normal person needs. I've seen competition vehicles with less SD installed.

Not knocking it, I admire the attention to it, but you'll hit the wall of diminishing returns at the point you have about 1/3 - 1/2 the door coverage shown, assuming a couple of slabs are also on the door skin, and the deadening on the rear of the door card is very limited value.

 

I want to cover up the major holes with something to more so help with the draft this truck has in the cold cold. But I haven’t devised a way to make a plastic sheet that’s removable easily

 

Why not just use OEM, heavy-mil film with tar outer seal?

 

I can’t find an easy source to get some. Otherwise I would. My plastic sheet is long gone

hell I’d love some of that fancy foam/plastic shit the new cars get

 

Hmm since I’m thinking about it, does anyone sell an RTMR mounts for the first gens?

 

Johnny has some designs that paranoid fab is working on. He sent me a prototype. Should work for FGT.

 

Hell, I'd like one of the alloy/stamped tin covers nicer vehicles have. On the foam/plastic, it'd need to be molded just like tin, so it's a no-go.

I think the sheeting used is like 14-16mil thickness. You can find sheeting on a roll and cut to size, then just cut asterisks for any break-through spots.

The original AC/RC part number was 67831-0C010 (678310C010) for both doors, but it looks like it's discontinued at the main parts site.

ToyotaPartsDeal shows it as in-stock, but I'm skeptical.

 

There are also some engine bay compressor and aux fuse mounts specifically for FGT that I have somewhere. From somewhere I can’t remember.

 

Got pics? I’m planning on mounting this thing right by the original fuse block so it’s super close to the battery

 

Guess I’ll look into the plastic. Then just drape the hole thing in some foam to kill some of the higher frequency noises

 

I think Johnny’s goes over the abs octopus. The other one I have I think is designed for near / above the engine bay fuse box.

 

my plan is near the main fuse block. mines an L shape, a bracket to put the bussman over the ACIS controller box should make it fit nicely inside the L. then the battery cable run will be super short.