What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yup. @FirstGenVol was looking at it, he's technically got dibs unless he tells us otherwise.

Also have a lightly used Denso 100A available, 5k miles, but the plastic cover is cracked. Both can be found here w/pics, minus covers.

130A is Denso 210-1065 (<-- SOLD!)
100A is Denso 210-0757 (<-- SOLD!)

Edit: Still need to sell the 100A, 130A is sold now.

(PS - if you're reading this 1-2 months from now, chances are one or both are gone, I'm adamant about decluttering right now).

 

Oh, and now I realize every AutoZone tests alts, starters, batteries on-site, across the entire USA per their site, I guess I can run up and get both tested before selling, eh?

Knowing my luck, I'll end up getting the one employee who has nfc how to use the test machine.

 

I need the 130...let me know. I'm not in a rush, rather planning a road trip and thought it might be nice to have a spare (I'm still running the original)

BTW, I just logged into toyota.com to confirm what I need (I have the off road and tow package), but when I lookup my VIN those options are now gone from my build...it shows just a vanilla SR5 config. Weird! I wrote them to ask what happened...maybe they'll answer, or maybe they won't.

 

That is pretty darn weird. I haven't checked mine at Toyota Owners recently, but the tow package in '05/'06 definitely included the 130A alt. I can tell you from experience, the 100A and 130A have no issues bolting up either way, I've had both variants in my truck, and I'm currently running the same 210-1065 / 130A in my truck now.

I wish either (A) I'd had the time to replace my factory alt when it caught fire, or (B) known 100% trucks with tow PKG used the 130A back when I had my in-a-pinch trusted mech swap it out after the fire, so they could swap in the correct size ... I asked for the larger, but ... meh.

I guess everyone can learn from my experience.

 

Not trying to ruin Shifty's sale, but you could upgrade to a 150amp and keep your current one as a spare

https://www.tundras.com/threads/04-...swap-on-a-00-tundra-the-3-big-upgrades.67222/

I have until the middle of September to return my 130a as a core, but I'm just going to keep it as a spare probably.

 

Thanks, but I'm stock AF!

 

Doubt you'll be able to beat my price, and lack of core charge also

I pinged FGV directly to have him check-in on my reply above and confirm either way.

May as well keep it, they're easy enough to refurbish, rebuild kits are cheap. Paint it red, it'll charge faster

But that's basically all I'm asking, what I'd get for core + shipping, latter is under $20.

 

Hmmm...so Toyota replied right away! Although they offered no explanation, nor did they restore the config to the site, they DID send me a PDF of the complete as built config which I can now store forever.

 

I think I'm going to just order a 100A Denso alternator from Rock Auto. Neither the 130A or 150A are going to work without modification which seems unnecessary. I've run a fridge off my original alternator without issue for a few years now. I charge the Jackery while driving and it has pass through capability so it powers the fridge.

Knowing me, I'd mangle the piss out of the alternator trying to repin the connectors.

 

Awesome, thanks for the confirm.

@w666 inbox me with a new conversation if you want this 130A. You're not much farther up the road than FGV, I'll be shocked if shipping is over $20.

I can run up to AutoZone and get it tested for the sake of sanity before we square up.

 

Careful cuz I'll probably take you up on that. Thanks for the offer. Since I'm still a couple weeks out from doing it I'm doing research and watching videos before I dive in.

 

I did mine too. I can tell you how NOT to put your head in a puddle of ATF if you need.

 

Everything appeared to be there and in good shape. I checked everything over as best I could.
It could be package failure, but it was certainly helped along by UPS. I bought the parts from Boch Toyota out of MA. I haven't ordered from them before, but they're cost (and especially shipping) was better than anywhere else.

 

Hold on! I can only take in so much information at once. But that might prove useful.

 

I don't recall where/which thread but this was recently brought up and nobody understood why nor was happy about it. That kinda blows. okay.... so what to do? who do we gotta go after for the goods?

 

They wrote back again and told me to clear my cache, delete the cookies, blah blah blah. Did not work, so I'll fight the battle another day. I got what I needed today. My service history is intact, thankfully, since I invested many hours manually entering all the work I performed.

 

So, My 1st gen Sequoia is getting warmer at idle. Temp gauge on cluster doesn't move past near middle. Not overheating but it was a warm day here in SD (about 90) and AC on full blast, going through In&out drive thru and BAM, warm AC air. The AC clutch kept cycling and nothing. I did notice my voltage dropped even with the Aussie fuse mod (thanks to the forum members). Any ideas or has anyone had this happen on their trucks?

 

Check temps via obd2? If it's climbing, could need a radiator.

If it's not, time to check freon level/for leaks.


Mine was starting to get warm at idle 2 years ago and was just low on freon over the years. No leaks found with dye testing and it's been fine since I charged it.

 

Brand new champion full aluminum radiator. Coolant is full and no air pockets. My scan tool was showing 96 Celsius while idle but didn't climb much after that. While driving its normal then come to a stop light, Nirmal. Although today was a bit cooler (85 f.). I'm pretty sure my freon levels are normal too. I'll double check tomorrow with my manifold set.

 

This was my 1st guess too, but I'd just add, that the warm air blowing combined with the voltage drop may actually signal the compressor failing. Either a bearing is going out, a short internal to the compressor, clutch on the verge of failing, or similar.

A seized bearing in an A/C compressor could prevent the pulley from spinning, interrupting the drive belt from spinning correctly, which would impact all pulleys on the serp, including alternator (volt drop), fan clutch (heat spike), which are other symptoms listed.

Granted, higher temps could change the way HVAC coolant behaves, exacerbating any low levels. But the other symptoms described don't 100% make sense if just low coolant. failing compressor and/or clutch could explain them all, I think.

 

I'm hoping it was a voltage drop or spike and not compressor near failing. Haven't been able to recreate the issue since that day. AC is still not cold enough at idle but our trucks suffer from that (some I've heard). But today's 96 C. At idle in my driveway scared me a bit.

 

For your sake, I hope it's not compressor fail also

But also gotta say, 15 years out a compressor isn't bad. Down here in the humid SE, that's actually really damn good. I'm always grateful when I go to throw on the A/C and it actually fires up!

I've never had not-cold-enough air issues in my '06 down here in the sweaty south.

 

I was really worried my truck would be a major pain for front sensors. I just rented the Oreillys o2 sensor socket set and used a half inch ratchet and they came right out.

 

Same here. The hardest part was getting my T-Rex arms in there to reach them.

 

My O2 sensor came right out but the plug for the wires took about an hour or more to get removed! Fun stuff

 

Got one of my LCAs today from Summit Racing. Apparently the missing retail box as seen is because they had to re-box it. Guess that’s better than shipping a ratty box to me all taped up.

 

Radiator and thermostat today. Found out my truck had some sort of Motorad thermostat in it. Hopefully this solves the overheating issue I've had.

 

I have the same problem. tried JB weld, didnt work.

I've considered this Or maybe ill just butcher is with a soldering iron and some steel mesh or wire

 

Don't forget to clock the t-stat correctly

 

Trying to install these recovery points from 4crawler. Things were going great until I discovered they don't play well with the factory vanity front bumper skid plate? Should I cut a hole in the bracket? Just removed the flimsy skid plate? Ideas?