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04 Sequoia’s 150 amp Alternator Swap on a 00 Tundra + The 3 Big upgrades

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by joseph_sal, May 14, 2020.

  1. May 14, 2020 at 8:05 PM
    #1
    joseph_sal

    joseph_sal [OP] New Member

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    Good Evening People :D

    Due to the lack of detailed info surrounding this subject ... I talked with other people from “First Gen Tundras” group on Facebook who did the swap before me and they helped me a lot to do my swap... Hopefully this thread will help someone else find the answers.

    So Let’s not waste time and dig straight to it ... The New Alternator was taken off a 2004 Toyota Sequoia with 134K miles from a salvage yard for $80

    All photos are numbered and I’ll refer to those numbers in the text to give y’all a visual beside the description.

    Few things you need to know before you do the swap:
    • If you have 00-02, you’re gonna need to re-pin the pigtail due to it being oval shape Vs. Sequoia’s square shape. If you have 03-06 it will be a direct swap. (Photo #1-2)
    • If you have 00-02, you’re gonna need to cut the 3rd mounting bracket. If you have 03-06 it will be a direct swap. (Photo #2)
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    It’s worth to check the Alternator brushes before the swap to save yourself time doing the project again later on; mine were approx 25% ... (Photo #3)


    [​IMG]


    If you know how to remove the alternator, skip this part.. If not get your hands dirty:
    1. Disconnect the Negative battery terminal.
    2. Remove the big tube between Air Cleanser to Throttle Body.
    3. Remove the accessories belt using 14mm socket on belt tensioner by turning counter clock-wise.
    4. From the top, loose the 3 P/S pump bolts and a nut using a 19 mm long socket through the pulley holes (loose them enough to move the pump back and forward to clear the alternator top nut).
    5. If you have a skid plate on bottom, remove the total of 9 bolts using 12 mm socket.
    6. From the bottom, remove the top alternator nut and bottom bolt using a 19 mm, and remove the positive cable from the side, and the pigtail (oval shape for 00-02, and square shape for 03-06) from the back of alternator.
    7. Slide the alternator forward from the top block mounted screw and drop it down and out.

    Ok! Old alternator is out... Now it’s time for some Electricity 101:

    This 150 amp alternator swap is pretty much useless if you aren’t doing the 3 Big Upgrades (3BU) to accommodate the higher amps this alternator generates. The 3BU is the swapping of 3 major power cables to a larger gauge wiring:
    • Alternator to Battery (Positive +); approx 67” length *.
    • Battery to Chassis (Negative/ Ground -); approx 6.5” length *.
    • Engine to Chassis (Negative/ Ground -); approx 14” length *.
    • Those are my cable measurements. measure again to be sure. Those cables aren’t cheap.
    In my case, I used 2/0 awg cables that rated for 175-195 amp (Just in case I need to add an Auxiliary battery and/ or extra accessories in the future), but you can use 1/0 awg cables rated for 150-170 amp.

    To make the cables needed for the 3BU, watch those 2 videos as they show 2 different method of crimping (I used the Hammer method since that the tool I have had):

    1. Hydraulic Crimp Tool: https://youtu.be/TQzKcRAVUfA
    2. Hammer Crimp Tool: https://youtu.be/epqT0RhLOSo

    Q&A : What about the factory cables? Keeping or removing them won’t hurt a bit. It’s a matter of a cleaner install. In my case, I kept factory cables but I couldn’t connect the factory cable on the alternator side with the new lug ring due to the thickness of it and due to the short alternator’s positive screw so I just isolated the factory cable for now until I figure a solution out.

    Q&A : Why not longer cables and why the large gauge? You use the shortest cables needed because electric current likes to take the “shortest route” to travel (same reason why you shouldn’t use the frame as ground). Large gauge (thick cables) have less resistance which mean the electric current travel flawlessly.

    Although, it’s worth to mention that when using cables like 2/0 or 1/0 the resistance is 0ohm anyway due to the relatively short length needed so if the cables longer than what you need it won’t make a difference.

    If you decided to do the 3 Big Upgrades! Photos #5-9. If not, continue reading!


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Now to the pigtail (ugh) ... as I mentioned earlier, if you have 00-02 Tundra then you have to re-pin the pigtail from the oval shaped to the square one and this part is easy but it requires a lot of patience (Photo #10) ...


    [​IMG]


    If you aren’t confident enough to do it or you don’t want to deal with this then you can cut the 3 wires before the old pigtail, strip them and for best results solder the connection points and isolate them with electric tape or individual shrink tube. (Link for the pigtail in the bottom).

    For pigtail wiring diagram check DIAGRAM #1 which is my hand drawing for what I used... If you want the actual wiring diagram from Toyota, Geoffrey Peers has them. Also, watch this YouTube video on how to de-pin & re-pin the pigtail: https://youtu.be/xgnsDm5UbFs

    [​IMG]


    At this point, you’re gonna shift to the new 150 amp alternator! If you decide to change the brushes and bearings, follow the below steps - if not, skip this part:
    1. Alternator Brushes: Remove the back of the alternator using the 3 * 10 mm nuts and pull the cover off. The brushes are located in the center surrounding the shaft and mounted by 2 * 8 mm/ Phillip head screws (technically the brushes are pre-installed in the brush assembly). After removing the screws pull the brush assembly out and check the brushes inside the assembly’s tube and how long are they; the shortest they are they worst they are and vice versa. (Photo #3 & Photo #4)

      [​IMG]


      [​IMG]


    2. Alternator Bearings: It contains 2 bearings; One in the front of the alternator and the other one in the back. Unfortunately, Hearing inspection might be your best lead here. If the alternator make a noise (kind of like whistling) when it’s running then they are bad ... (Photo #11 - Toyota’s Diagram) ... Check this video on How To: https://youtu.be/yUTd4a9f9QI

    [​IMG]


    Once you’re done... You’re gonna start some alternator’s body modification that require a minimum skill of using a grinder (Only for those who have 00-02 models)... All what you have to do is to cut the 3rd middle mounting bracket using a cutting grinder disk, and smooth it out with a grinding & polishing flap disk (That’s what I used) ... If you have a wire brush you can use that to clean the outer body and specifically the mounting brackets points of contact with engine (Photos #13 & 14) as they considered the Negative/ Ground. (Photos #12-18)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Now, if you finished all/ some of the above and you are ready to install the new one then do the the removal steps backwards and torque the alternator and P/S pump screws & nuts to 29 ft.lb.




    Parts/ Tools:
    • Alternator (150 amp Sequoia): 27060-0F050
    #BIA
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 15, 2020
  2. May 15, 2020 at 6:47 PM
    #2
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    did you put an inline fuse for the larger gauge cable from the alt or is it going into the fuse box like the factory one?
     
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  3. May 16, 2020 at 6:07 AM
    #3
    joseph_sal

    joseph_sal [OP] New Member

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    The Positive line from Alternator going straight to battery. When using 150 amp alternator there is no need for an inline fuse since the alternator only generate what the truck needs and the fuses in the distro box can handle that.

    If you’re using high output alternator like 300 amp then you need inline fuse and you need to upgrade the wire between battery and distro box as well.
     
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  4. May 16, 2020 at 6:57 AM
    #4
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    @joseph_sal

    Nice detailed write up. Just curious as to your reason for doing this mod?
     
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  5. May 16, 2020 at 7:07 AM
    #5
    joseph_sal

    joseph_sal [OP] New Member

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    Thank you! In the near future, I'm gonna add an Auxiliary battery (with isolator) and add an inverter. Plus this will help when connecting more lights or any other electrical devices as the build continue...

    Also, eventually I'm gonna add a solar for the auxiliary battery as well and replace the isolator with DC-DC Charger

    Bigger alternator will work less as more loads being added.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2020
  6. May 16, 2020 at 8:06 AM
    #6
    TX-TRD1stGEN

    TX-TRD1stGEN I'm not taking a knee

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    @Pinay add to info dump thread please:headbang:
     
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  7. May 16, 2020 at 8:14 AM
    #7
    Pinay

    Pinay New Member

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    You got it!
     
  8. May 16, 2020 at 8:24 AM
    #8
    joseph_sal

    joseph_sal [OP] New Member

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    Thank you :headbang:
     
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  9. May 18, 2020 at 10:29 AM
    #9
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    The more things you add the more juice you need. In my work van I have a 500W and 250w amp. So that's 62 1/2 amps just right there. Then factor in 10 amps for the head lights, a few amps for interior stuff, and you've pushed the factory alt to the edge. It doesnt take much.
     
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  10. May 18, 2020 at 12:23 PM
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    suueeet

    suueeet New Member

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    How many amps is the stock 1st gen alternator? Not like I need a reason to go to the junk yard.......:yes:
     
  11. May 18, 2020 at 4:25 PM
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    Professional Hand Model

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    100 Amps

    upload_2020-5-18_19-24-13.jpg
     
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  12. May 18, 2020 at 4:27 PM
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    Professional Hand Model

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  13. May 18, 2020 at 4:29 PM
    #13
    Professional Hand Model

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  14. May 19, 2020 at 2:51 PM
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    joseph_sal

    joseph_sal [OP] New Member

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    80/100 amps depends if it has a tow package or not.
     
  15. May 20, 2020 at 12:24 AM
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    empty_lord

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    03 up are 100/130 130 for tow package.


    i need to put the 150 in. ive had one for months i grabbed from a junkyard and replaced the bearings and brush on.
     
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  16. May 20, 2020 at 6:26 AM
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    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Allergic to Darkness....

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    Too many
    So I take it there's no bolt on alternator we could use that has more amps? Something that doesn't require all this work.
     
  17. May 20, 2020 at 6:35 AM
    #17
    Professional Hand Model

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    Correct. Our, 2000-02 years either have 80 Amp or 100 Amp (with tow package).

    Tundras 03-06 is golden and can bolt on the 150 amp Alternators made for Sequoia.

    Looks like an easy mod for 2000-02, but with my current 100 Amp Alt I have no need for it. I believe using LED bulbs opens up more space in the entire system for Amps. So in essence, your LED is using less power allowing the entire capacity of the system to have more availability. @bmf4069
     
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  18. May 20, 2020 at 6:39 AM
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    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    Yes they do. I'm not sure of the wattage on car bubs, but your typical household bub drops it from 60w down to 9w. Pretty good drop.
     
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  19. May 20, 2020 at 6:47 AM
    #19
    Professional Hand Model

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    So going all LED bulbs is a capacity upgrade in and of itself?
     
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  20. May 20, 2020 at 10:25 AM
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    joseph_sal

    joseph_sal [OP] New Member

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    It's not a lot of work really :D It can be done within few hours and a 6 pack if you got the tools:bananadance:

    I believe you can find what you're looking for but most likely going to be aftermarket (Not Denso)!

    I found this to be the cheapest as the alternator cost $70-$90 in junk yard, Brushes cost $18-$25, Pigtail (If needed $5-$12)... Plus, where is the fund in a direct swap :D
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2020
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  21. May 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM
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    joseph_sal

    joseph_sal [OP] New Member

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    LEDs definitely reduce the amount of consumed power. I personally Upgraded all lights in mine to LED (mainly because I hate yellow & green lights) including the dashboard lights except brake bulbs (Next on list)..

    Although, I'm doing retrofit on headlights soon so I'm going HID with that. (Probably next detailed write up) :D
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2020
  22. May 20, 2020 at 10:58 AM
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    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    Yes, but the main ones that will affect it are headlights and fogs. Most other lights are low wattage anyways.
     
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  23. May 20, 2020 at 11:34 AM
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    empty_lord

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    I’ve been eyeballing there mled retros. But I still don’t know if I’m willing to cut up new oem lights lol
     
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  24. May 20, 2020 at 11:35 AM
    #24
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    All those little dash lights do add up though. Think of how many bulbs there are. Even the switches have little incandescent bulbs in them
     
  25. May 20, 2020 at 11:42 AM
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    joseph_sal

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    Last edited: May 20, 2020
  26. May 20, 2020 at 3:11 PM
    #26
    Professional Hand Model

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    Yep.
     
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  27. Sep 16, 2020 at 8:11 PM
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    GeneVS

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    Well done Joe.
     

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