What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

14.7 cold. Haven’t gotten it up to temp yet. I’ll know tomorrow

 

Those and ppi amps. Staples of the 2000s.

 

Precision Power! The art was nice. I remember a lot of ppl back then were running Hifonics too.

They were crazy underrated! The shop I worked for mostly sold JBL and Crunch depending on whether you wanted SPL/thump or concert/fidelity. Targeting that middle-area for people who didn't want to pay for a/d/s, MBQuart and other extremely high-dollar items. Built some really killer systems while I was there, won a lot of trophies, fun stuff.

But man, it always pissed me off when we'd hit competitions sometimes, everything staged in wattage groups IIRC, 100-250, 251-600, brackets like that. The guys running Punch would always stomp everyone's dick in the dirt if wired properly b/c the damn amps were stable to, like, a quarter ohm or something crazy like that. Someone running a Punch 200s would take dudes with 1000w Soundstream amps, PPI amps, whatever, stomp their dicks in the dirt.

They really were the shit back in the day. The RF subs were pretty solid too, but JL had their number.

 

@daveeasa the output is 14.7-8 cold, 14.2 warmed up sitting at a stop in drive

 

Sounds perfect? I'll let you know what I see with my $100 fix and maybe even compare myself to the $2 fix since I have diodes and add-a-fuses...

 

Leveled the truck.


why cant i figure out how to add spoilers?

So cheap and easy.

 

Can anyone explain to me why I keep reading you need an AGM for this?
bAcK In mY dAY, most cars charged between 14.5 & 14.7. How has this become too much voltage?

 

From what I understand, lead acid flooded batteries are best charged at a lower voltage while AGM batteries are best charged at a slightly higher voltage.

So, it's mostly that if/when switching to AGM you want to boost charging voltage, not that you need an AGM to meet the default vehicle charging voltage.

Not sure I explained that very well though.

 

I installed a new Napa "Legend" battery. The same model battery I put in 7 years ago, and although it was weak, and probably going to fail soon and leave me stranded, it was still cranking the motor. Resting voltage was only 11.7 V. They seem to be a good value and high reliability. The battery chemistry is a SLA by the way. FYI.

 

So is there any great reason to not just install the diode regardless of battery makeup? (aside from a marginal increase in load on the alternator)

 

I believe there is good reason to not adjust if not using an AGM because of potential unwanted reactions once the battery is fully charged.
I’m not remotely clear on how substantial those concerns might be.

 

Overcharging a lead acid can cause it to go boom

 

https://youtu.be/fc29O74vZ2c

 

I like to think my shit box stands out....

 

For sure the best frame on the lot!

 

Got the shell tinted to match today. Had them remove the tint on the back window of the truck and put 35% on the back of the shell. Nice to have the same tint look all down the side.

Before: After:

 

I was more of a Orion Red (HCCA 250 if memory serves me correctly) guy myself. And prior to JL getting it together with their subs a lot of the folks I ran with ran Vega's.
Certainly telling my age..

 

Nah, not at all. CV's nd Earthquake were both huge, most of the shops around us were either running Punch, Kicker, CV, Earthquake or JL. JL started hitting their peak stried in the late 90s and hasn't seemed to stop, frankly. I completely forgot about Orion 'til you mentioned it.

 

Oh and as for what I did today ....

DIR tag light disable harness installed. More details and a full writeup here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/lic...hile-in-reverse-dir.97246/page-2#post-2522320

Gotta tell y'all, Dave does killer work. The quality of craftsmanship on this harness is beyond killer. Get your orders in now before he goes mainstream

 

Bearded Iris! One of my my favorite breweries.
Awesome write up. I should add this to my to-do list.

 

Can absolutely 110% back up this claim, and highly recomm @daveeasa for any and all wiring harnesses.

He did an absolutely phenomenal, and quick job knocking my turn signal harness out of the park. Mine was a custom jobber, and wasn't a revamp of an existing product.

Turn around time was less than a week after my asking. Honestly, I was shocked at how quick he had it wrapped up.

This is the end of my testimonial, but I'll be contacting him should I need any more harnesses done up.

Absolutely killer.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/tundra2s-lifetime-project.65626/page-8#post-2487676

 

I missed all this apparently. Is license plate light glare really an issue? Is that only if you have a backup camera mounted there?

 

Post mortem of old parts is up on the crackhead thread.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/crackhead-resurrection.94083/page-45#post-2522807

Will be shit canning all of them

 

In a last ditch effort to fix my brakes I'm going to order new OEM parts for the rear. I'm hoping the issue might lie with the rears not working properly because they aren't self adjusting.

We did this to @jpink truck and it helped his pedal feel quite a bit.

My question is, do you guys think it's a waste of money to replace the wheel cylinders? $60 per side. I'm not replacing the shoes because they have a surprising amount of life left and I'm not getting any weird vibrations or pullsating.

 

Unless you know you have issues inside the rear cylinders. Otherwise do a rebuild kit like heather did, even when I did mine, it looked smooth as a baby’s butt inside the cylinders

 

I’m a strange dude and it bothered me in the Tacoma. So I bugged puppypunter about it till he designed a solution. I liked it so I wrote a DIY thread. Then people asked me to build it. So I did. It was very popular for a while. I sort of enjoy making them, it’s a lot of parts from different places and trying to minimize cost became a sort of challenge.

Johnny got a Tundra version going and I’ve taken over that too. And a 2nd Gen Tacoma but so far only one guy wanted that. And now I think we have a decent design for first gen. It’s nice to have all of them covered. And there is a lot of similarity.

it’s by no means needed to enjoy backing up at night. But I do prefer having it. I live in a semi-urban environment with lots of pedestrians and my driveway is the other side of a T intersection. I worry about kids and dogs. Lots of 30-35 mph traffic from cars and bikes too. Everyone parked on the street. Tough to see everything around you and safely back out.

a few months ago someone started selling plastic stick on covers for the top half of the plate light opening which effectively solves the problem a much cheaper way. So nowdays everyone buys from him. Which is totally cool, I always thought the sealed relay was more for the lunatic in me than any safety conscious responsible adult tendencies.

other vehicles apparently can disable plate lights in reverse via changes to vehicle settings. There isn’t much reason to have them on since good reverse lights illuminate well.

 

I wouldn't use OEM cylinders either way honestly. Those things aren't anything more than a hunk of tube with a hole in it and you can pick up aftermarket for like $15.

Like @FrenchToasty said grab some rebuild kits and try that.

 

Either way, it seems unlikely that my soft pedal is from anything related to the wheel cylinders right? I may just leave them alone entirely so I don't have to mess with bleeding the brakes for the millionth time. I've got PTSD when it comes to getting air in the lines at this point.

Anyone think I'm wasting money by replacing the parts listed above? I know that after I jack up my rear tires and manually adjust the star wheel my brake pedal is better for a little while before reverting back to SpongeBob. Leads me to think they are getting out of adjustment somehow.

 

You can have my OEM wheel cylinders off my unused drum backing plates...