Crackhead resurrection

every camp ground i’ve stayed some goons either keep me up partying or wake me with glass pack exhuast like neighboor every morning across the street its worse when temps are cold fmL point i’m making is i have know idea the point

maybe flip a coin and decide?.?

 

As long as you're not moving the truck around the campground a bunch during quiet hours, and not hounding the gas pedal, I wouldn't sweat it personally.

 

turtleman my neighbor thinks like you an it wakes everyone. guy trys to baby throotle you can tell he knows but still sounds like a douceh bottle.

 

If your truck wakes people up at the camp site it just means they didn't drink enough the night before.

 

LT can be done quiet with a stock muffler. You’ll still get better scavenging. Just won’t be as drastic of gains

 

The entire reason I go camping is to get out in nature and not be near people. Never understood the campsites where you are feet from strangers.

 

Same. The further from other people, the better.

 

Only a 100ft hike to the bike.

 

https://youtu.be/fc29O74vZ2c

 

cracker flashing more warning lights than scotty can handle over warp 3 in giving it all shes got captain mode.

 

Finally, a weekend off! Post-mortem of ye olden parts.

The overview...



4WD actuator. Rusty bitch. Gah! Contacts inside the "cup" appear to have very little wear. Odd for a farm truck me thinks...






Brake lines. These looked mostly good except some boogered threads I have marked out.









Rear shocks that no longer absorb... Gnarly.




Worn TF out carrier bearing. If you pick it up, and shake it, it rattles. Don't think it's supposed to do that. Lol



Bed bolts. As I expected, these were God awful. Happy I provided new ones as 7 our of 8 would have been reused. Look how much has rusted away!




Body Mount bolts. These were pretty ok, and could have been reused. Bought new anyways.




Body mounts. Rusty, dry rotted, and cracked. All the way NG. Every one of them had cracks underneath like the one at the bottom.







Fuel filter. Meh.


Engine mounts. Dry rotted, and cracked also.



Transmission Mount. Plastic (up/down adjustment?) thing at the bottom appears to have some wear. Cracks where the rubber meets the steel.




Front clip Body mounts. These appeared to be mostly ok other than the usual age/dry rot.

 

I still think it's so neat that you were able to find this truck and get a new frame. Amazing really.

I've been meaning to ask, what have coolant temps been like since your flush? Also, aside from fixing 4WD what all is left to do?

 

This is live data as of 4 minutes ago.


Been anywhere in the 180 to 190 range really. ATF fluctuates a bit more than a 10 degree swing.

What's left? A shit load. Listed in no particular order.

1. Oxygen sensors
2. Exhaust in general.
3. Body work....
4. Seat replacements if I could ever find any...
5. Further rust prevention.

That's obviously a very broad brush stroke...

 

I think I would try getting 4x4 working first because... It's fun! . It would also be nice to have that before it snows on you again. Remind me what they ruled out? Do they think it needs a new transfer case?

 

Honestly, I can't remember right now what was ruled out. I know it has one brand new Toyota front actuator, and I think they said that the transfer case was out of time with everything else.

I'd like to try to fix it, but I have no clue how all that would come apart, and go back together. I'd be fighting myself the whole time

May drop the truck off with Bruce, and see what he thinks him being the local Toyota expert and all.

 

Someone else had that issue here in the past and I think they got some good responses that helped them fix it. Don't sell yourself short either. I bet you can figure it out. But I know you're short on free time from work.

 

Found one of those posts. @N84434 had great advice.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2002-trd-tundra-transfer-case-motor-issues.68086/

 

180°-190° coolant temp is fg tunny perfection range well done..

 

Well, let's think about this for a moment. I know for a fact that the actuator was replaced because I have the old one. What I don't know is what the transfer case is locked into.

Reading @N84434's post makes some sense, but I'm tired. Might make more sense after long loongie.

Found a video that when coupled with a video that @empty_lord posted quite some time ago make more of the picture complete in my head.

https://youtu.be/rgUkydSCcHI

https://youtu.be/Bux-qK3Ze-A

 

Went out to get tired eye balls on it to think on my situation while I snooze. The frame is looking really nice.!


Saw Toyotas "repair" of the wires on the rear actuator. Will need to de-pin and then heat shrink those wires with marine grade. Also, where does the vacuum line for that end? It's a might bit too chilly for me to lay out and figure it out myself.


Was puzzled by the reuse of old frame pieces.


As I was crawling out, I noticed a lack of paint on the frame under a body mount near the rear of the cab.


Luckily, I'm prepared for my coming days off, and I got a Jumpstart on that job. Something about white trucks and fluid film. @FirstGenVol


Gave everything I felt like getting to a half ass once over. Nooks, and crannies, and especially the old frame pieces...



Noticed NEW TOW HOOKS????


Noticed NEW BUMPSTOPS? Just how bad was the old frame?????

 

Run the truck in the air. If it’s in 4wd the front shaft will rotate all the time. If it’s in 2wd it’ll not move at all. If it’s in between your truck wouldn’t move

 

I swear @empty_lord tossed out a very specific idea, something about tcase? I don't remember. But it sounded easy, relatively speaking compared to what you did on the engine, and the part was under $400 used?

 

The actuators go bad all the time. You can swap them without removing the t case and splitting the case. It just involves non approved methods, but it’s worked for me

 

I would fix the wiring first though… that’s fucked up. A old style MAF plug fits if I remember right… easy to get at a junkyard

 

Again, I ask. Can I just cut, and splice this or is there some sort of super secret resistance that it reads and adding wires would change that resistance?

Some of our special sensors at work cannot be cut to length as the amplifier reads the specified resistance of the WHOLE wire including the sensor so we've got 30 feet of wire to run 3 feet around the machine. Looks ghetto

 

I'll have to Jerry rig some sorta horse shit to balance the whole truck.

One end or the other is fine out here. Both ends is difficult... lol

 

I swore a few posts back or in the WYD thread, or lunch thread, you suggested replacing a physical part that wasn't an actuator.

 

Are you sure about this? My front driveshaft spins freely when in 2WD. Never tried it in the air though.

 

If there's enough slack, cut just behind the damage and crimp on new terminals. Should be fine.
Otherwise a good splice and some high-dollar sealing heat shrink.

 

Well mean in drive. Should of clarified. In 2wd it should just sit there when the rears moving. You should be able to grab it by hand and rotate it