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Oil change tips

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by TTU19, Jan 12, 2018.

  1. Jan 12, 2018 at 12:09 PM
    #31
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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  2. Jan 12, 2018 at 12:40 PM
    #32
    jfrd30

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    Negative on the ATF....That's an old school trick from back in the day.
    I use Mobile-1 0W-20 like the book says.
    Filter is on you, but it is a cartridge type not your typical screw on filter.
    You do need the filter wrench as well as a new oil pan washer and all the rubber washers that come with the filter.
    DO NOT reuse the old washers.
    There are plenty of videos on YouTube that will show you the step by step for an oil change.
    Good Luck and God Speed young man!!!
     
    Okie1, TTU19[OP] and avgasman like this.
  3. Jan 12, 2018 at 12:44 PM
    #33
    TTU19

    TTU19 [OP] Wreck 'Em

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    So if I get the Fumoto, I obviously can only install this once I've pulled the drain plug the first time. So install that, use the lever clip to lock it in during driving. Do I still need that oil filter drain, or just add the hose to the fumoto? Or does the oil filter drain hose go to something else?
     
  4. Jan 12, 2018 at 12:45 PM
    #34
    TTU19

    TTU19 [OP] Wreck 'Em

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    That's why I was asking about the ATF fluid. He uses it and I'm just like.. ooook. Ha.
     
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  5. Jan 12, 2018 at 1:00 PM
    #35
    scotch

    scotch New Member

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  6. Jan 12, 2018 at 1:00 PM
    #36
    TTU19

    TTU19 [OP] Wreck 'Em

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    How many QTs should I need of the oil?
     
  7. Jan 12, 2018 at 1:11 PM
    #37
    ColoradoTJ

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    I’m going to assume your 16’ was purchased new. Even if it wasn’t, I’m positive that your engine isn’t all sludged up.

    This is what people did with old school motors 60-70s that had a really poor service life with 100k+ miles, and wanted to clean out a gummed up engine. Some would put in a quart, idle the motor for 10 min and drain oil, and then replace with fresh oil. Never drive an oil change cycle on this.

    Here is an article on the topic:

    https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/dr...ticles/transmission-fluid-as-an-engine-flush/

    Personally, I would never do it.

    I would just tell your FIL that you're going to follow the recommended service schedule via your service manual. Toyota/Lexus employs some of the best engineers that spend millions on testing. This is your truck, and it is awesome he is coming over to help you out. Some good bonding time.

    The next time your hands are all greasy and dirty, try this: over a oil catch basin, pour some ATF in one hand and then rub together like you would soap to remove grease. Your hands will be so clean in seconds. Now wipe hands off with paper/shop towels. Works like a champ for that old, black sticky grease that never wants to come off.

    On a side note, this is exactly why I normally buy brand new vehicles. People doing stuff like this just scares the crap out of me. Look into used 5.7L motors. Here is a remanufactured long block, not even complete: $6231.00

    https://carpartplanet.com/2013-toyota-tundra-5-7l-23391.html

    Now the the parts swap from your motor to the long block, and then do remove and replace cost.

    You will be close to $9000.00 when this is all done. Food for thought.....

    Here is a complete motor with 50000 miles for 4800.00 + shipping.

    https://m.ebay.com/itm/ENGINE-5-7L-...pDilAQptdRfFZ-TN&_trksid=p2489528.m4335.l8656
     
    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    #37
  8. Jan 12, 2018 at 1:48 PM
    #38
    jfrd30

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    8 qts
     
  9. Jan 12, 2018 at 1:49 PM
    #39
    jfrd30

    jfrd30 Lead, Follow, or Get the Hell Out of My Way

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    Have you looked at the YouTube video's yet??
     
  10. Jan 12, 2018 at 1:52 PM
    #40
    ColoradoTJ

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    Tommy's Tundra and jfrd30 like this.
  11. Jan 12, 2018 at 1:55 PM
    #41
    TTU19

    TTU19 [OP] Wreck 'Em

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    Nope, I can't, I'm still at work, ha. We can't go to YouTube.
     
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  12. Jan 12, 2018 at 1:56 PM
    #42
    Taco-Blender

    Taco-Blender Old Guys Rule

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    Agreed!!

    The ATF thing is very old school. A lot of early model Miata owners do it once in awhile because the lifters are very sensitive to oil changes and tend to not pump up if you neglect to change the oil. ATF WILL clean the heck out of the inside of the engine though.

    Look up "2 twisty flush" for more info.
     
    avgasman[QUOTED] and ColoradoTJ like this.
  13. Jan 12, 2018 at 1:58 PM
    #43
    Juanjoolio007

    Juanjoolio007 New Member

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    You still need the plastic tool to drain the oil out of the filter location and it will come with the factory filter . The tube is for the fumoto valve IF you want it. I am lifted and didn’t use the tube. I can just sit under my truck and adjust the drain pan... can’t speak for stock guys.

    There is a sweet YouTube video that shows you stick the plastic tool into the filter then use an empty bottle(video shows Vodka I think) and that will save from a huge mess from the filter drain.

    You can do the fumoto later. It’s just a nice piece to have not a requirement.
     
  14. Jan 12, 2018 at 2:31 PM
    #44
    jfrd30

    jfrd30 Lead, Follow, or Get the Hell Out of My Way

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    When you get a chance, look at the vid. It will explain a lot of what everyone is trying to impart to you. An oil change in a Tundra is a bit more tricky and complicated than you would imagine. Once you see the vid, all this will make much more sense.
     
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  15. Jan 12, 2018 at 2:41 PM
    #45
    TTU19

    TTU19 [OP] Wreck 'Em

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    Yeah, it's beginning to all seem a little too crazy. Humm..
     
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  16. Jan 12, 2018 at 2:44 PM
    #46
    jfrd30

    jfrd30 Lead, Follow, or Get the Hell Out of My Way

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    Hahaha.....I've got several oil changes under my belt and all this talk is confusing me.....LOL! Let us know how it goes when you get to it. Oh, and let us know how your father-in-law responds to the oil change. I'm sure there will be several choice words and some head scratching......possibly even a WTF or two!
     
  17. Jan 13, 2018 at 6:00 AM
    #47
    netranger6

    netranger6 New Member

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    None. Keeping this one stock.
    Follow torque specs. Be prepared to mess up the ribs on filter cap when removing. But a metal one.
     
  18. Jan 13, 2018 at 6:04 AM
    #48
    netranger6

    netranger6 New Member

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    None. Keeping this one stock.
    I used amsoil filters and their signature grade. Change both o rings. And a filter wrench won't do shit but piss you off. Get a good cap socket. If the last guy that changed it torqued it down too much there' a ood chance you'l snap a rib on the filter cap. And it will leak. Be ready to call Toyota for another or have one in hand.
     
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  19. Jan 13, 2018 at 3:58 PM
    #49
    TTU19

    TTU19 [OP] Wreck 'Em

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    Changed the oil today and was very easy! I was afraid to tackle it based on what everyone said but it was simple. Thanks for all the help everyone!
     
    nvrgvup444, Okie1, Abrams65 and 5 others like this.
  20. Jan 13, 2018 at 5:47 PM
    #50
    tye

    tye New Member

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    Oh hell no! Transmission fluid is way too thin. My father has owned his own shop for forty plus years and never did anything like that
     
  21. Jan 13, 2018 at 5:55 PM
    #51
    ColoradoBoo

    ColoradoBoo New Member

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    I was worried all those suggestions to put extra stuff on the vehicle would scare you away! (You don't really need them.)

    My only suggestion is to always use good oil filter...I always pick up the OEM's at the dealer because if you buy 3 it's only $12 (Used to be $10 but still a good deal for OEM) Don't EVER buy Fram filters.
     
    71_340 and TTU19[QUOTED][OP] like this.
  22. Jan 13, 2018 at 8:53 PM
    #52
    71_340

    71_340 The German

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    Lots of good advice here. Bottom-line is to use a quality filter and the correct viscosity synthetic oil (I only use Mobil 1 in all our vehicles and I think that is what the Toyota dealer uses).

    One thing I like to add is to make sure your oil is at operating temperature and change it as soon as you can after turning the engine off, that way if there are any contaminants they are still suspended in the oil and drain out. Since my truck is under Toyota Care I will use the dealer but will make an appointment and will show up shortly before the scheduled time and my oil will be hot.
     
  23. Jan 13, 2018 at 8:55 PM
    #53
    ColoradoTJ

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    Great advice there.

    This is where a Fumoto valve is awesome.
     
  24. Jan 13, 2018 at 9:03 PM
    #54
    71_340

    71_340 The German

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    Never had a Fumoto valve or similar device, I imagine it will come in handy. Unless the vehicle is under warranty I do my own oil changes and burned my fingers many time using my method.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018
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  25. Jan 13, 2018 at 10:50 PM
    #55
    Patriot

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    No, never heard of this. :eek:
     
  26. Jan 25, 2018 at 1:03 PM
    #56
    Noodle

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    So I’m in the middle of my oil change , purchased the metal oil filter housing off Amazon. There is a difference in heights of the vent tube inside my new housing. Do I need to swap the tube from my old plastic housing? Not trying to have any leaks, it looks like a simple deal if necessary. Anyone else have this issue?
    4A290F43-1D84-4559-BDC7-241665575DE6.jpg F462BE02-5710-4A64-853A-7D51557BEAC6.jpg
     
  27. Jan 25, 2018 at 1:15 PM
    #57
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    You definitely need to change the tube over. It has to match the length of your filter.
     
  28. Jan 25, 2018 at 1:47 PM
    #58
    1999cutiger

    1999cutiger Top Flow Lifestyle

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    The one you bought is for smaller Toyota engines. My wife’s Highlander has that exact canister.
     
  29. Jan 25, 2018 at 1:50 PM
    #59
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    Yeah I think they put it on the Venza too. Same canister you just need to swap the tubes.
     
  30. Jan 25, 2018 at 2:03 PM
    #60
    Randy Morton

    Randy Morton Life takes its toll, please have exact change.

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    Back in the '40s (and maybe the '60s) and before, oil was a bit of a crap shoot. Valvoline and Amalie were paraffin based and would quickly gum up an engine. I helped tear down an engine once that ran Valvoline exclusively and was religiously changed every 3000 miles. We had to use putty knives to scrape out the crud. The old mechanic I was helping said he'd seen that on every Valvoline and Amalie engine. Lots of tricks were used to prevent that. Some would even drain the crank case and fill it with diesel or kerosene once a year and use that to clean the sludge out of the engine. Now, modern oils have all of the detergents needed to prevent that. Adding transmission fluid just reduces the lubricating qualities of the oil, and will probably void the warranty if there's a problem.
     
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