New to me 2001 4x4 5spd V6

Did I get the wrong compressor or am I expected to swap the top part over?



Also what is this little doohickey and where does it go?

 

If there arent hose ports, i guess you'd have to swap it over. Maybe the gasket is under the plate?

more pics of the doohickey.

 

My brother said the doohickey is an expansion valve.
I just don't recognize seeing it anywhere

 

I sold the 17" 4runner wheels today and so tonight I splurged new parts for Tuntra
16"x8" 0-offset

265/75/r16

110 to 106 hub centric rims

Window doodads

 

That’s just a shipping cap to keep it clean, you’ll have to swap over your top piece, and usually they get shipped dry, so you’ll have to look up oil specs and amounts to add before you finish swapping top plates. That chingaso is probably the filter drier if I had to make a couch guess.

 

My brother said the chinsago is an expansion valve

 

Oof. That looks fun.
https://youtu.be/uXOgLNbrUQ8

 

Cool! Thankyou for helping me finding the expansion valve. Luckily I don't have a center console and I have the lines already disconnected so the job shouldn't be too bad

 

If I had to go to that much trouble I might replace the core while I was at it...

 

Yeah, about those ... if they ain't broke, don't fix. Learn from my experience - and I was being careful. https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1612#post-3182827

Since the aftermarket ones are the not fixing anything, they're just replacements, it's not worth swapping if not broken. If you must do this process, pop off the door panel, remove the latch fully, and do the work on a bench.

 

Shifty, thanks for the input. Both sides are broken on my truck so I need to replace them.

 

I think it was @Jack McCarthy who mentioned the ideal way, probably in reply to the post I linked.

Pop off the door card back there. There are two screws holding the latch onto the door frame, pop them off. There's one screw holding it to the glass, pop it off.

Once off, transfer to a bench. Tap out the tension pins. Don't try to re-use the tension pins; Use the round pins that came with your kit - mine had none of those, and the force required to install the OEM tension pins without a proper tool is ... I believe ... what caused my unfortunate result.

 

PS - while you're in there, you could upgrade your rear speakers with some solid 3-ohm JBL Club midbass co/tri-axial speakers too

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1037#post-2346263

I used a punch with a ball-peen hammer to get them out, supporting the backside with a block of wood to localize the force to mostly just the pin itself.

 

Good thinking!
I just ordered it

 

Oh lord Shifty don't make me spend more money!

Thanks

 

Dare I ask how much have you spent on the truck already?
Don't get me wrong, I think this is such a unicorn and would be awesome to keep/mess around with, but man, 10 pages and @shifty` is egging you on for more upgrades....

 

Latch removed:


Aluminum Doo-dad installed and latch replaced:

Feels good. Window opens and closes nice.

 

Hahaha yeah I love Shifty he knows how to fix these tuntras up nice.
So I spent $2500 on the truck and I think another $5,000 in parts lol I had to sell my old daily driver and all my savings to pay for all the parts. I'm riding bicycle right now until the truck gets going. Ive been fortunate in finding odd and end jobs like doing yard work, mechanic, pest control and working with my brother at a brewery unloading kegs.
One thing I can say is Ive done all the labor myself so that has saved a lot of money
I'm putting a ton of trust in this rusty truck so I've named it the Tuntrustra.
.

 

Tuntrustra.... that rolls off the tongue like that....
But yea, at under $10K some might see it as not worth it, but I think this is a keeper just because it is MANUAL!!!
Gah..... I can't find my manual Forester my kids been getting on my nerves about.....

 

"Some". Yes, some might see it as not worth it.
But I do, and I am happy with it. The experience of restoring the truck to this extent gives me a warm fuzzy feeling inside with a peace of mind in case something does go wrong later down the road that I'll know how to tackle it.

If this truck didn't have the V6, manual transmission, and transfercase, I would not have taken this project on or even purchased the truck. But because it had everything I wanted including the brand new chassis and clean interior it became my love affair.

Once it's all complete, I would bet most on the 1st gen forum wouldnt mind having this truck.

 

I reused the pins on my AC rear window latches. Had to tap the holes a little larger with a drill bit (RIP, drill bit) and they still didn't quite fit, so I squeezed the pins inside of some pliers and pounded the pliers with a hammer to "close" the weird serrated jaws-thingies on those pins all the way, then they fit just fine.

 

Do it.

 

Well, at least you’ll know enough on how to change out the clutch when the time comes. My brother gave up on his T-100 after spending over $1k every time that needed to be done. That and the rusted out frame, brake and fuel lines underneath made sense to just get rid of it.

 

That’s with labor.

 

Yea, I wouldn't mind buying it be honest. But being able to wrench it is good, especially you know what happened and how you can make it right.
I just wish I had just as much time/effort to it....
But good for you working on it and sharing it, it was a blast to read/watch

 

What specs are those and how much do they cost?

 

Buddy showed up today with his '02 access cab to see the progress on my '01. My truck was manufactured in 01/01 and his was 10/01

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB652/Polk-Audio-DB-652.html

Here's the fronts to match:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6502/Polk-Audio-DB-6502.html




They're just some cheapies, but sound better than stock. Especially with a decent amp.

 

Getting to the evaporator and expansion valve





Now I'm stuck until I can get the line disconnect tool.....