My Stereo Install, Tech 12 Volts Hertz Kit

Interesting, would have thought you could run the wire internally to jump them in parallel. I know running wire to each side input would have been parallel as well. I did the single 12 ported internally, so I would have thought the dual 10 enclosure would be similar. There was a bunch of speaker wire in the AMP power kit as well and RCAs that I didn't need with the JBL.

Hang on to you hat when you fire it up, the ability to get clean loud music is pretty sweet. Even my wife went wow and she normally could care less about sound systems.

 

Yeah I understood it little differently and maybe I did it wrong for me. I got 2 10 Shallow Mount JL Audio subs that are 4 ohms. I wired them directly into the speaker mounts on both side of the speaker box. From there I ran two separate wires to each side and ran both wires into the sub screw on the Amp. In the directions I got from James, it says u could do that or run wire from the Amp and have jumper to the other side. Atleast that’s the way I took the directions and did it my way. I could be wrong, but my subs are only 1 coil. If it was dual coil, I believe that changes the wiring game.

I attached the page that addressed this to me.

 

Yep, that makes sense and interesting macgyver you did there.

 

Ok all, so i just completed my tech12 volt herz kit, with a single 12" sub. The system sound great, however i am having one issue. With the radio turned down low, i am hearing a HISSSSSSing sound out of the speakers. Sounds like a tire going flat. very annoying. is anyone having this same issue, or what the possible issue may be. I will shoot James and email and ask him also. Just wondering if anyone who has installed the same system from James has experienced this issue.

 

Either way is correct. Parallel is parallel.
Interesting about the directions, would have saved me some time but I got it figured out.

 

James may have some other ideas. My first instincts are ground not good enough or power is too close to signal wires. Sure Google might offer a few tips. One step at a time when trouble shooting. And no, did not experience this.

 

Catmann, check to see if it's coming from the speakers or just the tweeters? I have the same sound, but mine is only coming from all tweeters. I can't hear it as bad with the radio up. You notice it when at low volume or when volume is turned down all the way. I did email James and he told me that is normal with the stock non-JBL headunit and that its comes from the bluetooth. He was going to tell me more in another email, but I haven't gotten that yet. He did say that i could turn down the LOC to 3/4. I only ended up doing the front 3/4 on the LOC as I had some distortion bass coming up front that I didn't like. It did help. I even thought of pulling all tweeters to make it go away, but it hasn't bothered me that much yet, lol.

 

Also, if you play with the Amp gains, you can lower it as well.

 

I didn't take many pic's yesterday, but this was mapping out the new AMP board. Beginning stages of the layout, once the rough cut was done, then there was a lot of tweak it, test fit back and forth. Turned out better then I thought when I started, really cleaned up the install. I'll try and get some additional pic's of it under the seat.

 

Should have taken a shot while the seat was out of the way. But you'll get the idea. So the challenge I had with the provided AMP board, was there wasn't enough clearance for the seat motor under the passenger seat. There was a lot of wire and DSR stuffed under it, so even when I removed those it was still tight. Went with 1/4 inch abs and custom it in there so the DSR and AMP would be on the same plain and lots of room for the wires to route underneath. It really did make the whole install look cleaner. The 2 pic's are before and after, you can see the seat motor rested on the AMP in the before.

 

Does your seat rub the top of the amp if it is moved back and forth?

 

Not any more, really only had an issue with the seat motor initially with provided rack and no amount of moving DSR and wires around would drop it enough to clear it. So the 1/4 abs was the ticket.

 

If you are using the stock HU this is a known issue - James thinks it's due to the BT module in the stock HU. It went away when I replaced the stock HU.

 

Thanks for sharing. It looks good. Also looks like the air isn't impeded from the vent which helps with cooling the amp.

 

Are your RCA's running next to the amp power wire? Are you using cheap RCA's?
Check where your amp ground wire is attached to the body.
Is it clean and tight. If under seat, sand off the paint so you have clean ground connection..
What is the amp gain set at? try lowering it.

I double checked all these items on my install, be its slightly different than yours and I have no hiss at all with stock H/U.

 

Yup, I'm just relaying what James told me and what many others have said when retaining the stock HU. I have a

$1,499 DMX1037S 10.1" High Definition Car Stereo Receiver with Capacitive Touch Panel

DMX1037S now and no hiss having not changed anything other than the HU.

 

Its cool brother - I didnt mean to sound as if I was contradicting anything you or others have said, especially James.

I apologize if my comment sounded as such..

 

No worries...what I found was the hiss was super sensitive to the gain adjustment on the amp. If the gain was all the way down it wasn't bad but as soon as I touched the gain it became very noticeable quickly. Of course, I simply dealt with this by playing the music really loud.

 

Really, I guess i know have an excuse to replace the OEM Head unit. Nice

 

I will check all what you suggest over the weekend. I will report back with an update. Thanks for the info. I will buy a new head unit, but only if nothing else works. I really didn't want to spend the money right now.

 

Finally had a chance to familiarize myself with the PerfectTune app for the DSR. Played with it on both IOS and Android and thought Android was a little easier to handle. The First thing is set your HU to neutral, remove any settings for tone (treb/mid/bass) or location (fadder) control. The second thing you want to do is turn off screen timeout on the device you are using to sync with the DSR, as you'll have it open and just listen to changes, this way you don't loose connection. The Third thing you will want to do, is download the current preset so if you muck it up you can always revert back to the baseline that Tech 12 Volts originally flashed with with. This way you can start a new preset and have fun. I didn't play much with cross-overs, as those are active from the AMP and setup very similar to the AMP already. Played with the equalizer a little before baselining it again, some change but not a ton. Might revisit this after I listen to the current changes for a bit.

The thing that had the biggest impact on the system was time alignment. For this I just used a tape measure from me to each speaker position. The affect was to really balance out the overall sound stage in a surprisingly good way, was not expecting that, but not a hardcore audio file either so I guess I didn't know what to expect.

Once you are done with your configuration all you have to do is export it back to the DSR for it to be flashed with the new settings. The app itself took a little time to figure out navigation and what settings would do to the sound stage. Unfortunately there isn't what I would call a lot of help on "do this if you want this" type information. So it was somewhat trial and error during the process. Again a good reason to download the setup before you begin making changes.

 

Where did you ground the amp?

 

I used one of the stock amp bolt locations. Just sanded the paint, about a quarter in size. With the cable length of a foot it metered out at .1 Ohm's. Anything .3 or less is good to go.

 

I am having a few minor DSR challenges so was in there trouble shooting this weekend. They are more annoying than a problem. Occasionally the radio wont turn on the amp, sometimes volume control is missing and the AMP doesn't shut down when turning the radio off with the vehicle running. Went through some trouble shooting with Maestro and determined the DSR in not working as intended. Not to worry, James already has a new one on the way to replace it. So anyway took a quick shot of the finish while I was in there, not pro level install, but clean. .25 inch ABS board to keep AMP/DSR off the floor and lots of room to have the wires underneath. 1 vent if fully exposed, the other has breathing room under the ABS. I did a lot of metering to make sure there were no electrical hiccups, so attached recommended places to meter for volts/ohms, easy to find with a little web searching.

 

Sorry for bringing this issue back to life, but does anyone know a fix for this yet? I finally got my DSR1 and 5-channel amp installed from James, but the navigation voice prompts are non-existent from apps like Apple Maps, Google Maps, or Waze over CarPlay?

Beyond a fix, if known, I’m generally trying to understand why the voice prompts aren’t coming through. These prompts must be coming through one of the 3 channels put out by the DSR1 that the 5-channel amp is not using?

 

The best I can offer is that there are a few known issues with the CAN/bus that both Toyota/Idata are aware of. I had a good conversation with James back in December as I was trying to trouble shoot why the AMP wouldn't turn off with the HU while the vehicle was running. In talking with him, these and a couple of other minor items are known issues, it is being worked on and sure it is tricky but no known ETA. CAN/bus is all about sequence and timing of events in the background.

I have tested some of the items you are discussing and was unsuccessful. I went through the exercise of attaching side dash and center speakers with no luck/changes in behavior. At least the Toyota navigation works well, calls and text to speech for now.

 

Justbass,

Did you ever get this figured out? I've been doing a lot of research to figure out how to fix my 2018 JBL system or to make it better using the existing HU. I have some schematics you might like to use in trouble shooting.

 

There is another thread started by James that had some traction earlier this year. Firmaware 2.0 held some promise but also fell short of the fix. The music will dim with the apps, voice will come up, but the music doesn't come back. At that point the various maps/waze apps will continue to operate but music won't come back without a reboot or restart. The idata link sight indicates there may be a 2.1 out, but I haven't found it or any details about it yet. It is clearly the communication software from DSR to CAN/bus that is the issue.

See this link to date;
https://www.tundras.com/threads/202...lease-read-and-post-if-you-have-issues.81978/

 

Thanks.

 

Looking at doing a stereo build on my 2021 Crewmax non JBL and will stick with the stock HU for now. When you replace the factory HU with the

$1,499 DMX1037S 10.1" High Definition Car Stereo Receiver with Capacitive Touch Panel

DMX1037S do you lose the factory menu options for setting, etc.?
Hoping the 2021 will be similar to the 2020 and any upgrades won't cause many electrical gremlins with the system.