Just got a new tundra

I’m 17, my first truck is a first generation tundra 4x4. the small v8(2000). Truck runs perfectly, not anything wrong with it and now i’m venturing into performance/cosmetic mods. Any suggestions on where to start?

(truck is bone stock)
I’m very handy and can do all my own work

 

Did you get the truck from a known person? If so, were the lower ball joints replaced with OEM parts and the timing belt done within the last 100k miles? If not, get those done before investing seriously into aftermarket mods.

Here’s a good read for those new to the Tundra…
https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

Yes, bought it off local mechanic, timing chain is ordered, waiting for it to get here then i’ll install it. And most of the front end (upper/lower control arms, ball joints, bushings, etc) were redone very recently

 

Welcome Mac, from Texas!

I know maintenance is not flashy and a bit boring, but the stuff that Bill just listed are key. Those items kill these trucks. Get the truck right before anything cosmetic!

The link he listed has everything you’ll need to know about all the wheels, tires, suspension and upgrades you’ll want and need. It’s full of information about brands that are good and products that you should stay away from. Enjoy and welcome to the forum.

 

right, after the timing chain is put on i will have done everything that is recommended to replace. although, i have started to notice a infrequent but almost rhythmic sort of grinding sound whenever i am driving at low speed. i suspect its the wheel bearing or something with the brakes. i take it to my shop tomorrow to poke around and see whats up. would wheel bearings make that sort of sound?

 

Never trust a mechanic to make the correct decisions about the parts they use on these trucks unless they're an absolute 2UZ-FE and/or 1st gen junkie. Especially if they're over 30-40. They come from an era when aftermarket parts still had some semblance of quality. Aftermarket parts are mostly utter shit now, and if - for example - he did the classic old-school/old-fart thing like I'd have done 15-20 years ago, using MOOG parts, he may have royally fucked you, but be blunt. MOOG had a huge recall a couple years ago after a plethora LBJ failures which also impacted NAPA branded parts and one or two other companies. Aftermarket LBJs are known to be a huge killer of our Tundras.

That thread Bill linked will share it all. The knowledge in there dates back to your pre-teen days. It is an accumulation of years of knowledge, known issues, common problems, big warnings, etc. Read it. It shouldn't take more than 10 minutes. It's pretty much an index of issues to look for, and it links out to other threads in the event you want/need to read more. I'd bookmark it: It's pretty much your initial gateway very common topics.

Weclome to the forum @MacFixes

And know your 4.7 doesn't have a timing chain. And when the timing belt is changed, ideally every 10yrs or 100k miles (or sooner per Toyota), make sure you do the pulleys and water pump and thermostat. Aisin (the OEM manufacturer of many parts on our truck) sells this all in a handy kit that's under$200.

 

Sure will. Once you get the wheel off and inspect the rotor for any abnormal grooving and if all looks well, you should be fairly confident that it’s a bad wheel bearing

 

You know it's a belt, right? Also, probably wouldn't order any old belt. You can order a kit from Rock Auto (for example) that is made by Aisin (OEM) and it includes a water pump, tensioner, and belt. Also, if the LBJs aren't OEM, you might want to consider replacing them with OEM. You really need to read the link listed above. Also, welcome!

 

Oh and wheel bearings will make screeching, vibrations at speed, they're very easy to test whether they're good or not. A number of things would make grinding at low speed.

Your "shop" may tell you things we say are crap/scare tactics/etc. If you ever need evidence of anything we tell you is common with these trucks. Ask. We have a thread or photos to share with you of it actually happening.

 

yea the guy i bought it off of was probably early 30s and i had my brother and dad there (reputable mechanics) to research all parts and they are OEM. And i also took the time and wrote out a list of things from the beginners forums that would be replaced to have a perfect truck and as of right now, the only main thing is the timing. and i do know it’s a belt i just call anything that has to do with timing a timing chain lol.

 

right right, it’s not a mechanics shop, it’s my own shop with a bunch of buddies/family members that we all do work on and help each other out. so i’m not worried about them trying to scare me off/rip me off etc.

 

And i’m fairly new to drum brakes, will those make the sort of grinding noise?

 

Welcome! I'm 19- my Tundra was my first car/truck, like you.

As others have mentioned, it's easy to get into the "it's a Toyota, it's bulletproof!" mentality. And sure, they are. But being bulletproof comes at a cost- care, not just maintenance.

I'm excited to see what you do with it. It looks like we've both got Access Cab, Thunder Gray trucks.

 

Understood. The belt isn't the only thing that fails, which is why you're getting all the extra warning above.

Like ... If you don't replace the tensioner at the same time, they can and do fail, and when they do, the belt will jump teeth or throw completely; engine can be bricked. Or if either of the two main pulleys dies, you'll burn thru the belt abruptly and it'll snap. If the water pump dies, you have a feckload of work on your hands getting back in there, yet it only takes 10 minutes extra to do it while doing the belt. The list goes on and on...

That thread linked above, 2nd reply, has a list of things to deal with and boxes to check. It doesn't cover all the nuisances, like the infamous water leak from the cowl everyone gets at some point, but it does have a lot of service info there, and helpful tips for newbs. Copy/pasting here:

After you buy the truck (or sometimes before):​

• Register for an account at the Toyota Owner's website: https://www.toyota.com/owners
• Plug your VIN number in and assign it to your account so you can check for open recalls, register yourself as the person to call/email in the event of a recall, and see any dealer-performed service history, including any frame inspections, recall work, regular maintenance, etc. This could give you a good idea of what the truck's had done already, where it lived, how regular the maintenance may've been.
• Get to a baseline on critical 1st-Gen-Killer maintenance items that needed to be done:
  • Timing belt/water pump/pulleys/tensioner needs to be done every 9yrs/90k miles.
  • Radiator should be done every 125k-150k miles.
  • OEM lower ball joints should be done every 100k-125k miles *IF* they're OEM parts (aftermarket LBJ shouldn't be used, and should be replaced immediately).
• Get to a baseline on routine maintenance:
  • Change differential(s) fluid but know if your rear end is LSD or not before you swap fluids.
  • Change the oil (5w30), install a new OEM oil filter.
  • If you have 4WD, read the appropriate thread on here explaining how to fully lube your driveline with a moly-foritfied NLGI 2 grease like Valvoline Palladium #2 or Valvoline VV985 per Toyota. Confirm the system is working to shift into 4HI, then put the truck in Neutral and shift to 4LO. If it fails, see the diagnostic thread. Check to make sure your actuator rubber vent tube(s) intact, not broken, not rotten/cracked.
  • Check/refresh power steering fluid, note that it uses ATF and not traditional power steering fluid.
  • Full brake fluid flush, IF the fluid you see in the reservoir is dark.
  • Purge/refill with pink long life coolant especially if anything other than pink/red coolant is installed BUT be sure to flush with water if any color other than pink/red is installed. When draining, drain at the radiator petcock and BOTH block drain valves on the sides of the block, under the manifolds on either side of the engine.
  • Check/replace spark plugs with the specific brand/model# printed in the back of your owners manual, but DO NOT buy from scAmazon or fleaBay (counterfeits galore).
  • Update filters. Note that you DO NOT need to replace transmission filter and SHOULD NOT ever need to drop the transmission pan or oil pan in these trucks in most circumstances!
  • On those filter, not even kidding: Stick with OEM filters, Toyota has specifically lenient flow characteristics which mate perfectly with their vehicles: OEM oil filter. OEM air filter. For 2000-2004 trucks only, consider replacing with OEM fuel filter even though it's a PITFA.
  • Some people will do at least one drain & fill on the transmission with the correct fluid for your year (2000-02 takes DEXIII, 2003-04 takes Type T-IV, 2005-06 takes Type WS). Yes, there is an urban legend about "never servicing a transmission with unknown history", and it should be taken with a grain of salt - stick to drain/fill only, and don't use any pressurized system to push fluid thru your truck, and you'll be fine. 2000-2002 years specifically will have the transmission grenade due to weak planetary gear before a fluid flush would ever kill it.
  • Check the brakes, brake adjustment. Front pads, check for even thickness on both pads. Advics made the OEM brake pads, their kit contains everything you need to overhaul. Verify the parking brake cable is intact, correctly tensioned, and functioning fully, as it's what keeps the rear brakes auto-adjusted properly and significantly firms up the braking experience. Check the rear shoes, and know how to use the parking brake or star adjuster to set the shoes, 3 out of 4 times when someone has shitty, sloppy, mushy brake pedal it's because (A) the rear brakes aren't adjusted or the auto-adjust isn't working, or (B) someone failed to bleed the LSPV (load sensing proportioning valve) and there's air trapped in the system at that valve which is preventing the rears from engaging correctly. There's a sticky thread to deal with this topic.
  • Battery stuff: Big one here. Make sure the terminals are clean. Use dielectric grease and install felt terminal washers. Make sure your battery terminals are tight, firm, not cracked or broken. Seriously, go to the local auto parts store and have your battery professionally tested. Understand something: Just because your battery shows 12v-14v doesn't mean it's OK, battiers work because of VOLTAGE and AMPERAGE. You can have a battery with 14v and it still won't start your truck if it doesn't have at least 200-300 cold cranking amps (CCA). At least half our no-start issues are, stupidly, due to failed battery. Some of those batteries were less than 6mos old, and people made the really stupid mistake of changing the starter without getting the battery tested first. Repeated draining of your battery WILL kill it.
  • Baseline on suspension: Check the swaybar link bushings. Check the struts and their lower mount bushings. Look for previous owner fuckery, like strut spacers. Check all bellows/boots and clamps on steering. Check the CV axle inner/outer boots if you're 4WD. Check upper control arm bushings. Check for lower control arm bushings (check for play). Confirm the lower ball joints aren't aftermarket (one clue: If LBJ has grease zerks, it's not OEM), and they aren't dry, boot intact, no play. Check the upper balljoint similarly. Check rear leaf packs: All leafs are unbroken, bumpstops are present, and there's a round shim at the tip of each leaf to separate them from the leaf above. Check steering rack bushings, noting there will be some play with rubber bushings, it's the nature of the beast (supple/quiet, while polyurethane is hard/noisy).
• Fix and check for known issues. Like ...
  • The dreaded cowl leak problem. See the Definitive Leak Thread for more info.
  • 2WD owners: Get under your truck and look up thru the ovular holes in the crossmember the transmission mounts to. confirm there are 4 bolts, no empty holes where the transmission mounts to that crossbar. If there are, see the TSB in this very reply (see section below) for more info on part numbers and check the crossmember for hairline cracks! Use blue threadlock when installing replacement bolts.
  • Valve cover leaks - notorious issue. Info on part numbers is on this page, search for the word "gaskets". This will soak everything on the bottom half of the engine, and mimick rear main seal leaks, power steering leaks, etc. Look all the way around the valve covers for old oil, clean it off, and keep an eye for new leaks.

 

Unless there's something wrong internally, or the brake shoes are completely worn out, drums should be just as quiet as discs. It's unlikely that your brake shoes are worn out, as they tend to last a long time in our trucks. The self-adjusting mechanism often stops working, resulting in a soft brake pedal, and the pads/shoes lasting a very long time.

 

looks like I have my work cut out for me lol….im not in any rush to modify it. but i am trying to built a timeline/mental list of things to do. How long did it take any of you guys to change any cosmetics. that are impactful to the truck (not like headlights or interior)

 

Admittedly, I did a lot of cosmetic work to my truck long before it was sound mechanically. It's hard to ignore stuff like rust or scratches. Nearly all of it has been repainting rusty or scratched panels, or peeling paint. You can read about it here if you'd like: https://www.tundras.com/threads/2000-limited-trd-refresh-repair-story.116395/

Really the only cosmetic "mod" I've done was my bigger tires, which aren't really much bigger than stock. And maybe my stickers on the window, but I'm not sure if that counts!

 

We are all constantly doing things to our trucks. We even have an entire thread devoted to it. https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-have-you-done-to-your-1st-gen-tundra-today.2558/

 

what size? and is there a large difference in stock vs bigger tires? I want bigger tires but i’m not going over 33/34s

 

They're Falken Rubitreks, in 265/75/R16. So, about a 32" tire, only an inch taller than stock. It's about as big of a tire as you can run on our trucks without a lift. I had to trim my mudflaps and part of the fender liner to fit them without rubbing.
Photos: https://www.tundras.com/threads/2000-limited-trd-refresh-repair-story.116395/page-13#post-3690780

I wanted big tires for a long time- but I'm glad that I went with a size that was close to stock. The truck still steers and handles great, brakes well, and accelerates quickly. It's still super comfortable for long trips and it's easy to drive in the city.

My gas mileage is still pretty decent too, which definitely wouldn't be the case if I had gone with a bigger tire. Unless you do some pretty serious offroading, a 32" or 32.5" tire will provide all of the performance you need while keeping the truck driving nicely.

 

You're going to get varying answers on this because all of us chose a different path, and we all have different lives. The reality is, you're 17 and hopefully don't have kids. I'm a mid-century dude with kids a couple years younger than you, so juggling them and the side gigs I have going on leaves me with little to no time. But, like ...

Leaf pack upgrades took me about 90-120 minutes working alone.

Overhauling my front suspension took about 2 hours per side (Toytec coilovers, new UCA, new OEM LBJ, etc) but also took me two attempts to knock it out because the UBJ are a bitch to press out/in on these trucks if you don't pull the knuckles.

Repairing the paint scratches and chips took me about 45 minutes.

Finding, buying, patching, refurbishing and paint-matching my new grille recently, that took me about 10 hours of work total. (more info on the process and why it took so long here.

Wheels and tires? Damn, I've been thru three sets in two years now, I think? I think it was three within 18 months. That was a debacle, and more hours/money wasted than I want to admit.

My truck is white and has single-stage paint, I probably spent about 8 hours on paint correction (claybar, cutting/polishing, waxing).

It really all depends on what you're looking to do, though. Usually what we tell members is to START HERE working your way from the last pages to the first so you see more-recent content. Start saving pictures or links to threads, make a list of things you like, whatever you need to do. If you need help trying to figure out how/what/where more info is, or whatever, post the questions in the sticky "LUNCH TABLE" thread, which is for more off-topic/non-specific convos.

 

If you are on the original radiator, you will want to replace that too. A rough 'rule of thumb' that it's gotten old is if the plastic is turning brown. The issue you are trying to avoid is not the plastic cracking. That'll just leave you stranded. It's internal. The transmission fluid has a line that runs inside the radiator. The seal connecting the fittings the bottom of the radiator to the line inside can deteriorate, allowing the transmission fluid and coolant to mix. Search for 'pink milkshake'. A Denso (the brand you want to get) radiator is sub $200 and if it has not been replaced in the last 10 years, should be right up there with timing belt and LBJ's.

 

I got my truck in summer of 2023. I just did all the big mods I’ve been wanting to do during the last month or so, including front and rear suspension lift and new tires and wheels. I think a lot of it comes down to patience. I knew I wanted good quality parts so I had to save for it and plan for it. But doing this stuff yourself can save you crazy amounts of money. If I had a reputable off road shop do all the mods I just did, it probably would have cost almost as much as the truck is worth.

Don’t be in a rush. It’s worth it to put reputable parts into your truck. Just like it’s worth waiting for a rust free frame.

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)!

 

Get the AISIN timing belt kit and no other. Post some pics and let’s also see your engine compartment and LBJs and we’ll help you.

 

The base model tundra came with little 245/70-16 tires and those trucks would pull harder than with the larger optional 265/70-16 tires. If you’re want to install larger than stock tires, i’d highly recommend to spend the $2k to regear the front and rear axles. You’ll then will probably also need to spend some $$$ on a speedometer calibration box. Then once you buy a lift kit, tires, and wheels, that’s REALLY going to add up in cost. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with a stock height truck with stock sized tires.

 

I’m running 285/75/16 on stock gearing. Speedo is off by 5 mph (shows lower than actual). Mpg dropped about 1mpg. Still feels plenty sporty though.

 

I think this is where a huge number of people screw up. One of two ways.

One, seeing dollars before sense.

$800 for new Bilstein struts with OME springs, or I can get a spacer lift from Rough Country for $79.95?! (Mistake: Not understanding the consequences of realizing how bad spacer lifts are for your vehicle, but using them anyway to save money)

$800 for new Bilstein struts with OME springs, or I can get coilovers from Rough Country or Rancho for $500? (Mistake: Not undertanding Rancho's shock bushings are known to blow out months after install, and much of Rough Country's stuff is garbage, so you spend twice)

Taking the truck into a shop to do the work, which reduces the value of your budget by 60-75% - a shop wanted $2,000 to install my $1,650 in coilovers and upper control arms. (Mistake: $2k buys you every tool you'd need to do the job and then some, you still have $1k leftover)

The above is a classic way to over-spend here; just save up once, formulate a plan to break it out into phases, and be patient as your project comes to fruition.
​

Two, failing to read up on the topic/issue and making the same mistake others have already made; on the flip side of that, not trusting people who've "been there/done that" when they speak from a platform of knowledge because of doubt, arrogance, fear of ridicule, or other.

You've got all the info sitting before you, but you fail to read it or heed the advice, only glance over the information to see if it supports your agenda.

You've got a community of wrench-veterans ready to help you put things together, but you are afraid to ask for help, worry about coming off as "dumb", or it doesn't make sense to you and/or you think you know better.

Choose not to listen when people are telling you, from a place of concern, how to do things the right way, but you opt for your way.

The above are classic ways to shoot yourself in the foot, make people not want to help you, and to find yourself stuck/up shit creek without a paddle.

​

The only other "aha!" snafu I can warn you about is juggling too many mods/projects at once. I did that often when I was younger. Don't start another major mod until you've got the first one finished, especially if one of those mods will put the vehicle in an undriveable state.

 

Thankfully, 2000-2004 owners have an easy plug & play solution for that.

 

I also am wanting to replace the sound system (doors, tweeters, sub/subs) but i want subs for under seats if possible. Any suggestions for brands/packages?