Jolt when stopping at a light

I expect this is the same thing happening in my 07. Can I assume the solution is the same also?

 

I've been using 1 grease for all the zerks. I'm sure it would be better if I followed the manual but I also doubt I'll hurt anything. I'm not even sure what grease I bought but I know it was compatible.

 

I've traditionally keep one full-size gun loaded with marine non-syn, one full-size loaded with

$15 VV985 Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

VV985 synthetic and squirt accordingly. I was happy to find the VV985 is acceptable, NLGI 2, GC-LB, it's pretty flexible. Just got worried when I saw the sheet saying Moly additive was preferred for just that one joint but not on the others.

IIRC, the only purpose of the moly additive is to treat parts with a slippery finish that hangs around after the grease is flushed out.

 

I did not have issue of rpm rev with my 2006 dc 4.7, just the thud when stopping. The thud went away after differential service.. replaced gear oil with 75w140

 

No reason. I bypassed this when doing research. The Moly overides both. Both can use Moly. No need for two separate guns and greases. Good check up on that, though.

 

Good to know. I have it on my list of things to do or check.

 

I honestly don't even know where I'd source NLGI 2 w/o moly. The stuff I'm using is the only I've ever used the last decade.

 

@Professional Hand Model
@shifty`
What brand grease do you use? Does Amsoil make it?

 

STP Moly EP from Autozoned. $5 a tub.

 

For my grease gun where synthetic is required (<$10):

$15 Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ4DK0


Where non-full-synthetic / non-moly is required and for loose-bearing applications, I use the following in tube or tub, both are NLGI 2 (<$5):

$14 Valvoline Multi-Vehicle High Temperature Red Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ4DIM OR

$13 Valvoline - VV614 Multi-Vehicle High Temperature Red Grease 1 LB Tub

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ264A/

The tub is what I use to repack wheels, hubs, cranks, and similar bearing-ball applications where manual repacking is required. If you're into vintage bikes, the Valvoline red looks identical to what Campagnolo sold at high-dollar BITD, but performs better IMO.

 

Flash forward two years in the hopes you see this reply. I am planning on greasing up the areas on my truck that well... need greasin. Was curious if you just used the Moly grease on all the applications as opposed to using non-moly, as that is the only grease I have at the moment? Thanks.

 

I wouldn't use the non-moly, myself. As you'll see in reply # 7, Toyota calls for moly w/the double-cardan joint in the FSM, so I just use moly fortified on everything. All it's doing is adding a non-slip coating.