Jolt when stopping at a light

Can someone direct me to the right thread or help me? I have a 2006 Tundra crew cab 4x4 that I found with 38,000 original miles. It now has 40,000 miles and when I slow down to a light, the rpms slowly rev up during downshifting?....and then after I am stopped at the light, there is a jolt or "thud". I am sure this has been beat to death over the years and I heard I need to grease the slip yoke? Where would I find the location of this? Any other input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Garrett

 

I would have that transmission looked at.

 

Ignore that.^

It’s extremely common in our trucks and is caused by the pinion angle changing when applying the brakes. While braking the pinion rotates in the direction the wheels are turning. When you stop it is usually preloaded at this same angle. This pulls the yoke out slightly. Once you release the brakes the leafs rotate the pinion back to normal angle and the yoke is jammed back in. Hence, thunk.

As for fixing it, you can pump it full of grease or just get used to it.

 

A LOT of grease!!!!! I used half a tube or more! Then unscrew the grease zerk to relax and relieve any access pressure, then reinstall

 

I think you are having a MAJOR issue!!!! You probably need to sell it to me so I can fix it!!! lol...

As said, grease up the U-joints and the slip-yoke....

 

I did slide under and grease as many zirk fittings as I could see, there is one in particular though that seems rusted at the base of the zirk and when I try and grease it it just comes out the base on the outside...

Thank you for your input! Where is the "slip yoke" been trying to find the location of that to grease the hell out of it.

 

All the way back on the plate that attaches to the rear diff. I believe there are two (2). One is the u-joint zerk and the other is slip yoke zerk.

 

I see yours is a 4x4 (2006).

The 2006 4x2 models had a problem with the 4 transmission mounting bolts (to frame cross member) falling out. You may want to check those even though you have 4x4.

Some report a clunk from this problem until its fixed with new bolts.

 

This is amazing! Thanks guys. I think my figure B zerk fitting needs to be replaced because of the rusted out base of it. I will try and work on getting that out. I think thats the sliding yoke as far as the diagram says. I didnt hit the front drive shaft so I will do that too as well as check the transmission bolts.

 

This is the truck. I also found some newer 20" OEM 4runner wheels that were identical lug pattern. I love these trucks

 

Ah, the elusive bluesteel mica. Very nice. (I'm a little biased)

 

Here is my previous response to this question. I found this on another forum and it solved my issue.


The driveshaft slip yoke has a zerk fitting for adding grease. There's a large void under the zerk fitting and it may take 30-40 pumps on a grease gun to actually get any grease on the splines, depending on how much grease was in there to begin with.

Take your grease gun loaded with lithium-based NLGI #2 grease and start pumping grease into the slip yoke zerk fitting. At some point you will encounter increased resistance on the grease gun handle and see that the slip yoke is expanding. Continue to slowly add grease. You will likely see the slip yoke expand on each pump of the handle and then slowly contract. Continue adding grease for about five to ten more pumps or until you see grease coming out around the seal, then stop.

Now get on the rear bumper and bounce it up and down a few times. This will compress the slip yoke and force more grease along the splines. Now take a wrench and remove the zerk fitting to allow excess grease to escape. Once the zerk is removed gently bounce on the bumper again to give it a little help. Clean up the expelled grease, re-install the zerk and you are good to go."


other threads on the topic
https://www.tundras.com/threads/axle-wrap-drive-line-bump.54143/#post-1416088

https://www.tundras.com/threads/shutter-or-jolt-as-i-come-to-a-stop.39219/page-2#post-1255809

 

I don't think one necessarily has to learn to live with it. Initially, I didn't fix mine because I read you shouldn't pump too much grease in there. I think people try 5-10 pumps and it doesn't work. I would attempt the process above and just know that it "allegedly" holds a ton of grease.

It was getting very annoying for me. Each time I rolled to a stop it felt like I was being lightly rear-ended. I'm glad I was able to get it to stop.

 

This should be stickied somewhere...

 

@Pinay Can you add these to the 1st gen Tundra Info Dump page? Gracias!

 

Any ideas on getting the zerk out if its rusted at the base? I tried pumping grease into it and it just comes out on the outside of the shaft at the base of the zerk. I will try and take a picture after work...

 

You should be able to use a wrench to remove it. Buy a replacement first and install the new one. Or, if it's clogged you can try using a grease needle or similar to unclog it. I've never had to replace one though so I'm just speculating.

 

Done.

 

Someone sent me a link on some maintenance that I didn't get to post yet, now I can't find it.

If any of you had something to add to the info dump page, lemme know!

 

On those diagrams, I believe it is the zerk on the sleeve yoke that is rusted and needs replaced. Since its rusted at the base, I am worried I will try and remove it and it will just snap at the rusted base...Probably my only option though.

 

Soak it really good in some Kroil first. Maybe hit it a few times. SeaFoam Deep Creep is also supposed to be great.

 

Normal.

 

Thank you! I will give it a shot.

 

So any updates. Did you get it off? Any differences ?

 

Thank you!

 

I have the same problem with my 2006 Tundra. I get the sound randomly depending on whether the truck is on incline, decline, or level road when braking to a stop. If the weight of the truck doesn't cause a shift in direction there is no sound.Mine is a two wheel drive. Can this model be greased, or not?

 

I had the exact issue as OP, except mine only happened when cold, I greased all the zerks suggested above. My fix was actually the throttle body. It was so dirty that it wasn't closing all the way when cold. After cleaning, it downshifted without the RPM rev.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/diy-maf-throttle-body-and-egr-cleaning-write-up.6293/

 

Finally found it! I had been searching for this thread but couldn’t remember had the OP worded it.

My truck recently started to jolt at the stop lights. It’s only done it twice in the last the 1.5 months but it’s been in the back of my mind.

 

Related question to this, and maybe anyone can answer:

I see the page referenced here shows the double-cardan being the only item that should get NLGI 2 w/Molybdenum additive whereas every other joint pictured is OK with regular NLGI 2.

I have only one grease gun at the moment (spring is busted on my #2) and it's loaded with Valvoline NLGI 2 synthetic w/Moly additive (Valvoline p/n

$15 VV985 Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

VV985). Is there any reason why the other pictured joints can't have the NLGI with molly additive?

Just curious before I dig into getting all greased up again.