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DIY: MAF, Throttle Body and EGR Cleaning Write Up

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Nor7, Jul 31, 2016.

  1. Jul 31, 2016 at 7:55 PM
    #1
    Nor7

    Nor7 [OP] Chilton Manual Guy

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    Ok so decided to take a look at my MAF and Throttle Body, the MAF looked great but sprayed it down anyway, the Throttle Body was filthy so I decided to clean it and the EGR while I was at it.

    Note: Did not have my low tech pointer so had to draw circles on the pics.

    Note 2: This may seem like a daunting task but it took me about 30 minutes and I would not consider myself a master mechanic of any sort. I did notice a significant boost in performance as the Throttle Body and EGR were very filthy.

    MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) Cleaning:

    Step 1: Locate MAF. See pic below, its the unit on the back of the hose between the air intake filter box and the intake manifold.

    IMG_9214.jpg

    Step 2: Remove connector. Pretty easy to pop right out.

    IMG_9213.jpg

    Step 3: Remove 2 philips head screws.

    IMG_9212.jpg

    Step 4: Carefully pull out MAF and spray down with approved spray. I recommend a MAF cleaner or other electronic safe spray.

    IMG_9210.jpg

    IMG_9209.jpg

    IMG_9208.jpg

    Step 5: Reverse steps to re-install. DON'T drop the sensor!!

    Throttle Body Cleaning:

    Step 1: Remove Air Intake Hose. Loosen hose clamps with 10 mm socket.

    IMG_9218.jpg

    Step 2: Remove Throttle Body by removing qty 4, 10 mm bolts. DO NOT REMOVE HOSES GOING TO THROTTLE BODY!! THESE HOSES CARRY COOLANT. TRUST ME.

    IMG_9216.jpg

    Step 3: Using a brake cleaner or other fluid, clean the throttle body and butterfly valve. Make sure to get the ends of the valve as this is what props open the valve over time causing a mis-read of zero-location position.

    IMG_9220.jpg
    (Side 1 above and partially cleaned side 2 below, dirtier on side 2 b/c of EGR system)
    IMG_9221.jpg

    Step 4: If you're going to clean the EGR, leave Throttle Body off. The truck will eventually re-program Throttle Body position but for more instant effect, remove battery cable to let computer reset. Warning: this will reset your radio favorites and all synced devices.

    EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Cleaning:

    Step 1: Locate EGR Valve. See pic below, this is it (the one with the silver hard line going into it. Again DO NOT REMOVE HOSES!! These are the same coolant circuit.

    IMG_9227.jpg

    IMG_9222.jpg

    Step 2: Free EGR valve by removing top hardline, then lower hardline and 3 bolts on EGR valve bracket. Will need a 10mm and 12 mm socket for this. Will need a 12 mm wrench as one bolt is hard to get to and not enough space for a socket. (previous picture shown)

    Step 3: Clean hard lines, EGR valve (both spaces), let enough time to pass for cleaner to evaporate as you don't want this injected into your engine on startup. Also clean flanges.


    IMG_9224.jpg


    IMG_9223.jpg

    Final Step: Re-assemble everything. It is normal that first engine crank will not start truck since pressure in EGR and intake system is lost. Should crank on #2 try.

    Second Final Step: Take a badass pic of your Tundra (See below, 112k miles, 100% stock and proud)

    IMG_9229.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 1, 2016
  2. Jul 31, 2016 at 10:40 PM
    #2
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    Very nice. Good work.
     
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  3. Aug 1, 2016 at 1:13 AM
    #3
    David2013Tundra

    David2013Tundra New Member

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    Excellent write up. How often do you perform the cleaning? I am at 50k now. Thanks
     
  4. Aug 1, 2016 at 6:16 AM
    #4
    Nor7

    Nor7 [OP] Chilton Manual Guy

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    It's the first time I did it, I wish I had done it at 50k intervals, there was some solid carbon deposits that fell out of some of the pipes.
     
  5. Aug 1, 2016 at 6:28 AM
    #5
    matluth

    matluth Fish On!

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    Nice work. By the way we use CRC here at work. Good stuff.
     
  6. Aug 1, 2016 at 6:46 AM
    #6
    Ancient1

    Ancient1 New Member

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    Thanks for the detailed description and pics. I'll be doing this when the 100 degree weather subsides.
     
  7. Aug 1, 2016 at 9:11 PM
    #7
    David2013Tundra

    David2013Tundra New Member

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    Thanks. I guess I have some work to do on my Tundra.
     
  8. Sep 14, 2016 at 8:25 AM
    #8
    markiemark9

    markiemark9 New Member

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    Fantastic write-up! On the to-do list!
     
  9. Sep 14, 2016 at 9:49 AM
    #9
    TheBeast

    TheBeast Mr Line-X

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    oh nooooooooooo ;)

    Great write up. thanks !
     
  10. Sep 18, 2016 at 11:34 AM
    #10
    Wynnded

    Wynnded Wait, what?

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    If I may suggest, maybe add in the OP that this is for the 4.6L engine. The 5.7L doesn't have EGR.
     
  11. Sep 18, 2016 at 12:14 PM
    #11
    MookTastic

    MookTastic Because I was inverted!

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    Definitely on the to do list. What did you use to clean the EGR?
     
  12. Sep 18, 2016 at 1:58 PM
    #12
    Nor7

    Nor7 [OP] Chilton Manual Guy

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    The 5.7 sure does have EGR. May not look identical. It it's there and can be cleaned the same way. I can post the instructions for that later
     
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  13. Sep 18, 2016 at 1:59 PM
    #13
    Nor7

    Nor7 [OP] Chilton Manual Guy

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    Used carb cleaner for the EGR
     
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  14. Sep 18, 2016 at 2:19 PM
    #14
    Wynnded

    Wynnded Wait, what?

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    Maybe my Google-Fu is not working today, I can't find anything on it. I was thinking of doing this today, but not being able to find anything has gotten me sidetracked. I await your findings.
     
  15. Sep 20, 2016 at 2:35 PM
    #15
    MookTastic

    MookTastic Because I was inverted!

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    Would one of or both of these work for all 3 jobs?image.jpg
     
  16. Sep 21, 2016 at 9:38 AM
    #16
    Nor7

    Nor7 [OP] Chilton Manual Guy

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    Sir you are correct, its not an EGR persay on the 5.7 but it there is a canister that injects hot gasses just downstream of the Throttle Body just like a convenstional EGR. If you'd like instructions for that I can get them to you but I imagine it will not be near as dirty.

    Get both. Don't use the carb cleaner on the MAF, and the MAF cleaner may not be strong enough to clean the EGR valve.
     
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  17. Sep 21, 2016 at 10:28 AM
    #17
    Wynnded

    Wynnded Wait, what?

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    Huh, I wonder what they're calling that then. I suppose that if they're not "exhaust" gases, it's not technically EGR, as you mention. Well, if you have some information on it, I would be interested in reading and hopefully learning about it. If you have access to it, I'd be obliged if you'd be able to share it. At your leisure of course. Thanks!
     
  18. Sep 21, 2016 at 10:45 AM
    #18
    Nor7

    Nor7 [OP] Chilton Manual Guy

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    Not much on it but this is what I could find. Parts locations. Looks like there's an air injection spot on the back of your engine.
     

    Attached Files:

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  19. Sep 21, 2016 at 10:47 AM
    #19
    Nor7

    Nor7 [OP] Chilton Manual Guy

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    Is yours a 4x4? I ask because I'm looking at upgrading to a 5.7L 4x4. My question is does it seem slugish to you compared to a 2WD? I test drove a 4x4 once with a 5.7 and it seemed heavier and slower than my 4.6 2wd.

    Edit: Previously i've driven my father in law's 5.7L and it seemed quick as hell but it was also a 2WD.
     
  20. Sep 21, 2016 at 11:26 AM
    #20
    Wynnded

    Wynnded Wait, what?

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    Boy you were right, there isn't much there....

    I've never driven a 2WD, so I don't have a reference. There isn't much use for them here. Pretty unusual to even see one. The only real difference that I can think of would be the in the weight of the front drive. Maybe another thing would be the final drive ratio, but I think that +90% of the 5.7Ls have the tow package and the lowest (4.30) gearing. Unless you tested a 4x4 5.7L that didn't by mere chance.

    My truck is a RCSB, it's quick. In theory, the only potentially faster configuration would be a RCSB 2WD. In stock form.
     
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