Jolt when stopping at a light

I expect this is the same thing happening in my 07. Can I assume the solution is the same also?

 

I've been using 1 grease for all the zerks. I'm sure it would be better if I followed the manual but I also doubt I'll hurt anything. I'm not even sure what grease I bought but I know it was compatible.

 

I've traditionally keep one full-size gun loaded with marine non-syn, one full-size loaded with

$13 VV985 Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

VV985 synthetic and squirt accordingly. I was happy to find the VV985 is acceptable, NLGI 2, GC-LB, it's pretty flexible. Just got worried when I saw the sheet saying Moly additive was preferred for just that one joint but not on the others.

IIRC, the only purpose of the moly additive is to treat parts with a slippery finish that hangs around after the grease is flushed out.

 

I did not have issue of rpm rev with my 2006 dc 4.7, just the thud when stopping. The thud went away after differential service.. replaced gear oil with 75w140

 

No reason. I bypassed this when doing research. The Moly overides both. Both can use Moly. No need for two separate guns and greases. Good check up on that, though.

 

Good to know. I have it on my list of things to do or check.

 

I honestly don't even know where I'd source NLGI 2 w/o moly. The stuff I'm using is the only I've ever used the last decade.

 

@Professional Hand Model
@shifty`
What brand grease do you use? Does Amsoil make it?

 

STP Moly EP from Autozoned. $5 a tub.

 

For my grease gun, where synthetic is required (<$12), this is also compatible with SPC balljoints @ 3% moly:

$15 Valvoline Palladium #2 3% Moly, Heavy Duty (HD) Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0735RLMCC/


For driveline stuff out of the gun, pre-lift, before I had to keep up with SPC balljoints, I was previously using using this Valvoline 985 which is a few bucks less, with 2.5% moly:

$13 Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ4DK0


Where non-full-synthetic / non-moly is required and for loose-bearing applications, I use the following in tube or tub, both are NLGI 2 (<$5):

$10 Valvoline Multi-Vehicle High Temperature Red Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ4DIM OR

$13 Valvoline - VV614 Multi-Vehicle High Temperature Red Grease 1 LB Tub

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ264A/

The tub is what I use to repack wheels, hubs, cranks, and similar bearing-ball applications where manual repacking is required. If you're into vintage bikes, the Valvoline red looks identical to what Campagnolo sold at high-dollar BITD, but performs better IMO.

 

Flash forward two years in the hopes you see this reply. I am planning on greasing up the areas on my truck that well... need greasin. Was curious if you just used the Moly grease on all the applications as opposed to using non-moly, as that is the only grease I have at the moment? Thanks.

 

I wouldn't use the non-moly, myself. As you'll see in reply # 7, Toyota calls for moly w/the double-cardan joint in the FSM, so I just use moly fortified on everything. All it's doing is adding a non-slip coating.

 

I already have some of this

$15 Valvoline Palladium #2 3% Moly, Heavy Duty (HD) Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0735RLMCC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 as this is what I currently use on my SPC UCA's (on their SPC approved grease list) . Would this grease be ok to use for all these fittings?

 

I personally would feel confident using that grease, for three reasons. On the label, it clearly states it's NLGI 2, and it also indicates it's moly-fortified. At Amazon's site, it clearly states it's Lithium based. Those are the three requirements inside the image you quoted, which was taken from Toyota's FSM (field service manual).

​

 

And @boogy your question led me on a damn goose chase to see what the moly concentration was in the grease I typically use, the VV-985 linked above. I'm hoping to get my SPC uppers in this weekend and will need to grease.

SPC wants 3-5% Moly concentration in greases. Dunno why Valvoline makes you dig so hard, had to unearth the product SDS to learn the 985 is only 2.5% Moly, so it's just shy of SPC's metric. I'll still use it b/c I'm not tossing half a tube of grease out because it's 0.5% shy on Moly. But looks like I need to switch greases next go-round eh.

​

 

@shifty` Thank You kindly for your reply! I was leading towards using it because as I said I already have some on hand but I feel better about it with your affirmation. And I hear you about tossing half a tube of grease, that aint happening here either lol.

 

I went down a similar rabbit hole when I did my SPC uppers in 2019. I remember I had trouble finding something that met specs for both SPC and our U-joints. I need to open my grease gun and see what I've been using. I thought it was Valvoline but my Amazon history shows I bought Mobile 1 also.

 

Hopefully someone sees this. My yoke is missing the cap to retain the grease (in pic. Obviously not our yoke but just so you know what im refering to). Can't find any part numbers for it. If I need to replace the yoke it's self then so be it. It's been commented on before but I haven't found a solution. Need to stop the thunk but can't get grease in there.

 

I found this PN for the yoke searching by my vin 37302-20040. It doesn't say if it fits for not. Anyone know the correct PN? But all in all, if there is a way to find the cap that goes in the end, that'll be a perfect fix.

 

IIRC, was it @FiatRunner who had that cap missing with his Dorman replacement? Or wait, actually I think it was @Bmktw2 who had that happen actually. And he had to tack-weld a new cap on.

 

Oh boy

 

It was @Bmktw2. In his case he bought a whole new shaft from Dorman, and found the cap laying loose in the box when it arrived. But at least he had the cap so he could re-attach it.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/new-to-me-2001-4x4-5spd-v6.124851/page-23#post-3282962

 

@shifty` @w666 thanks for the quick reply on the old thread. I'll continue the search for the cap. If no luck I'll just order a new yoke.

 

I think he called and they offered to send a new one.

 

So I had a weird issue like this the first time I greased my driveline. There was a weird nondescript hole where the zerk should have been. I ended up buying some zerks and tapping a hole and installing my own. Seemed a little scary when I did it but it worked for me. No clunks anymore! Pic 1 is from before it tapped it and installed the zerk. Pic 2 is after. That metal is pretty soft so if you decide to tap it be aware of that.

 

Sorry I just realized you probably have a different problem than I did. Ignore my post above....

 

So is the "slip yoke" all of those fittings that need 30-40 pumps or is it just one of those?

Edit I see the grease fitting on the sleeve yoke. Is that the particular fitting that needs 30+ pumps or do all of them need that much?

 

It's (B) in the diagram. "Sliding" == "Slip"

 

I see. And is this fitting where we pump 30-40 times and jump up and down on the bumper? What about the other 7? thanks

 

It is. But I'd say 10-20, then jump up and down. Watch the yoke as you pump. Then repeat, then pop out the zerk to let off pressure. From that point, make a point of 5-8 pumps at every oil change.

On the other 7, do as you would with any other U-joint. Pump until clean grease comes out, then wipe up.