Found my 1st Gen!

I kinda feel like it's going to get worse from here and not better. As more and more people realize how poorly made new vehicles are, and perhaps more importantly, as more and more people realize they really can't afford new vehicles, it's going to put more pressure on the used market.

I could be wrong of course but everyday I see new stories about catastrophic failures in new vehicles under 30,000 miles. Yesterday saw where a 2025 4Runner had to have a new transmission after only 1,500 miles!

That and the fact that rates for delinquency on car payments have surpassed what we saw during the 2008/09 crash. I love how that used to be referred to as the Great Financial Crisis and between Covid and what we're looking at over these next years, it doesn't seem so great anymore. Kinda like how it WWI used to be The Great War or The War To End All Wars and now it's just the first in a non-stop string of conflict over the past century. Yay for progress!

 

more pressure on the used market means more demand which means less inventory which means higher prices….back to CovID.

 

@shifty`

My truck comes with the base stereo. Are there additional speaker locations on the jbl trucks or is it just extra tweeters in same locations?

If I want to get maximum benefit out of a head unit and speaker replacement, do I need parts from a truck sold with JBL? Door cards, speaker grills, speaker brackets?

 

@B_Pilgrim ...in case you missed it, answers are mostly here with a ton more FGT knowledgebase.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

more specifically on the audio:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-factory-amplifier-locations-jbl-non-jbl-all-cabs.115324/

enjoy NoCal...GL w/purchase & welcome to the hood...

 

I cannot answer your questions easily, not enough info. Are we talking about DC trucks or RC trucks or AC trucks? It makes a huuuge difference here.

if you don’t have JBL, then you’ll have different wiring than the JBL system. You won’t just be plugging OEM JBL stuff in, and it will work on a truck that didn’t come with JBL.

 

05 DC

 

If you plan on hanging out here for a while I would recommend putting this information in your profile bruh. Makes life just a bit easier for everyone

 

For sure, will do. I'm just going to buy truck today

 

OH, that's right, you haven't tagged it and bagged it yet!
Good luck, safe travels

 

Honestly in my opinion, a NON JBL truck is easier to do a stereo in. Less hassle, less work, less money.
Buy a head unit, buy the standard Toyota wiring harness, and replace door speakers and voila'

The JBL equipped trucks are a lot more money, or time, depending on which way you go. Deleting the factory amp, or using a massive harness to keep it, both take more time and money. Also the JBL amps start clipping when you push them hard and get static in them when you get them hot after driving them hard. If you want a good sounding stereo the base model stuff without JBL is the easiest place to start and the least amount of work. The aftermarket radios of these days put out more power than the 20+ year old JBL stuff anyway.

 

The factory unit sounds fine to me for a truck radio. Preferable to the head-thumping vehicle-shaking noise that sometimes pulls up next to me at a traffic light.

 

Long story short, bullets for brevity on the DC trucks:

• You need to know if you have JBL or non-JBL ..... JBL trucks always have 8-speaker, non-JBL are (almost always?) 6-speaker
• If non-JBL, you need to know if you have an amp or not, it would be behind the back seat panel (driver side back wall)
• For all non-JBL DC, you have two front door speakers wired off the same channel (parallel), one tweeter in the sail panel (the rear view mirror triangle panel on inside) and one woofer in the lower door all wired to the same front channel, there's also one speaker in the rear door on its own front channel (2 channels total, per side)
• For all JBL DC, there's 8 speakers, 6 in the front door (the woofer is 2ohm and on its own channel, while the tweeter and 2" speaker are 4ohm but wired in parallel to create a 2ohm load on its own front channel), and the rear door speaker is 2ohm on its own channel (3 channels total, per side)
• The sail panel tweeter setup is the same for all DC, aftermarket tweeter mounting option example here, note that the pushpin that locks the panel in place likes to get stupid, either the receiver is shit, or the post on the sail panel is shit
• For the lower-front-door speaker location, you can technically bolt the 2-speaker housing from the JBL system into non-JBL trucks if you *really* wanted to add another 2" spealer into the mix, but you'd need to adapt the wiring
• The actual woofer speaker opening in the lower door and the rear is more suited to a 6¾-7" driver, while Crutchfield will likely tell you it's a 6½", you can go larger than that, up to 7"
• Ideal situation, whether you're JBL or non-JBL (IMHO) is to bypass the OEM amp fully. But note, OEM JBL owners, your speakers are 2ohm and need to be updated if you use the Metra amp bypass harness, to avoid overloading your head unit

Speaker upgrade-wise:

• Note my last bullet in the section above regarding speakers on the JBL systems
• I'll always recommend going aftermarket on your speakers, regardless which system you have
• For ease of install and quality of sound, on the front doors, I'll always recommend buying a matched component system, i.e. a woofer/tweeter pair that uses a crossover, and I prefer JBL for this purpose, then install coaxial or triaxial speaker in the rear door. I recommend this because it's easier to adapt the front doors to use only one channel (two wires, one +/- pair, which will be used to feed the crossover on each door)
  • For non-JBL/6spk: You'll grab the pair to feed your crossover via the purple/pink wires on driver side using a Metra speaker adapter, and blue/green on the right using a Metra speaker adapter (I believe it'll be Metra 72-8104). I think the rear doors use Metra 72-9301.
  • For JBL/8spk: I think the rear doors use Metra 72-9301. For the front, ideally you want to delete the woofer out of the mix, and intercept your two crossover feed wires one of two ways:
    • More-invasive: You'll grab the pair to feed your crossover by cutting the purple/pink wires on driver side (purple is negative), and blue/green on the passenger side (blue is negative). LIKE THIS EXAMPLE FOR PASSENGER SIDE (colors will change on driver side!). See THIS REPLY for more details.
    • Less-invasive: Go up to the tweeter, and trace its green/black wires down to the white/beige connector; unravel the tape lump above the connector to reveal a green/black loopback wires (6 total wires, going into 4 holes) You'll cut the green/black wires at the tweeter terminals, then cut the loop wires at the white/beige connector, re-tape the cut wires near the connector, and use the green wires to feed your crossover. See THIS REPLY for more details. I prefer the "MORE INVASIVE" method
    • From there, you'll use the four respective wires coming off your crossover, and route those to your tweeter and woofer (disconnect any existing speaker wires on the back of the woofer/tweeter and tuck away)
• If using the Metra amp bypass harness, if using the methods I just provided above above, you'll be wiring the bypass harness to your radio using the following setup, matching the purple/white/grey/green pairs to the radio, and ignoring the other 8 wires
• DO NOT USE THE FOLLOWING DIAGRAM FOR ANY OTHER INSTALL PURPOSE, BECAUSE THE WOOFERS WON'T GET SOUND UNLESS YOU USE THE WIRING INSTRUCTIONS ABOVE!!

​

 

So...

 

yeah,...suspense getting to me.
Gotta think yes, since once acquisition complete, likely cruising it around on tour...I would be!