DIY oil change 5.7

Do ramps make it much easier? Or just a nice to have vs. a must have?
Thanks

 

Thanks for posting this. I've always been interested in a fumoto, but never understood why they didn't have a sealed cap.

 

My Stahlbus arrives later this week and I will do my first oil change later this month.

 

A must for me. I also lay out a sheet of cardboard. Also use a headlamp.

 

Yep, same here. Far easier to drive up on the ramps than dink around with a floor jack and axle stands. I also slide cardboard underneath, first to lower the skid plate onto and push underneath the truck to get it out of the way. Next, I put a five gallon bucket on a second piece of cardboard for the oil drain step. A five gallon bucket can be easily positioned to catch the angled oil drain path, no problem. Once pan is drained, I move the bucket (and cardboard) forward for the oil filter drain/removal/replacement.

Dan

 

Installed my Stahlbus today. Real simple, good quality parts. We will see how the smooth the valve will drain next oil change.
Glad to be doing my own oil changes now. The skid plate was definitely annoying. The previous oil changes done by dealers bent the hooks so it made it more difficult.
Draining the oil filter housing was not what I expected. Even when watching the videos on YouTube. Got a little messy when the plastic piece didn’t seat properly and the oil went around instead of through. I was trying to catch it with a plastic bottle. Will be getting the metal housing and drain hose for next oil change.
Anyone use any other oil filter other than the normal Toyota one? Like the TRD or K&N?

 

Got my Stahlbus a couple of days ago. Not due for an oil change for about another 800 miles - will install it then.

I have only used Toyota filters.

 

I tried using the 65/67 mm 14 flute oil filter wrench & it didn't go on far enough to get a grip to torque it!

 

Thanks for sharing this info, appreciate it. Based on filtration info I’ve read on Bob Is The Oil Guy (BITOG) it appears the Toyota oil filter is of extremely high quality and folks there recommend it. Based on this info, I’ll be running the Toyota OEM oil filter and 8 quarts 0w20 Mobil 1 Extended Performance per oil change for the life of my Tundra.

On a side note, I’m also using OEM oil filters on my 2016 4Runner with 25,000 miles and all is running well with that rig.

 

I just got the one from the dealership. It has the notches to get a real good grip on the housing. I think it was $29.

 

Drain plug bolt 9 or 18 lbs torque ?

Thanks!!!

 

Drain plug bolt is 30 ft/lbs.
Filter housing is 18 ft/lbs.
And the filter drain plug is 9 ft/lbs.

 

Thank you sir!

 

I cut a hole in my skid plate and it makes it much easier now. I just leave the hole open all the time.

 

I did mine today and it was hot oil so no stopping it. What a mess! Good thing I had another smaller pan to try and deflect some of it.

 

After years of going to the dealer and 165,000 miles I decided to begin oil changes on my own. The dealer has been using standard, non synthetic oil. The reason I took this on was because I was having a lot of lifter chatter and figured it was due to oil sludge. I did two things: First I ran some engine flush through it for 10 minutes. Drained oil then ran into second issue, the oil filter was stuck.... I put a 3 foot breaker bar on it and nothing.... stripped the filter tool (square end - see pic). So had to pick up a 27mm socket and used my impact drill. After 10-15 seconds the plastic filter housing finally broke loose and by saying broke, it cracked. So I then had to go pickup a new metal housing. The oil filter was trashed and clearly hadn’t been changed in a long long time and was certainly causing poor oil circulation and the lifter noise. New filter, new synthetic high mileage oil and it’s as quiet as a mouse. Don’t trust the dealer and replace the plastic filter housing with metal. Mind the 18ftlb of torque on the housing...

 

motiv x also has a drain tool/ hose that will make draining the filter housing MESS FREE !

A fumoto valve in place of oil pan drain plug with a hose attached also makes a Mess Free pan drain !!

JM2C

 

Since starting this thread I have added a Fomuto valve and the metal filter housing. I also got ramps and a new oil drain pan. All this will make all future changes very easy. I always get my filters, oem from my dealer for about $5 and the guys throws in a new oil plug washer, which I no longer need because of the fumoto valve. On my next change, I will be cutting an access hole to the filter so I don't have to mess with the skid plate anymore. Not sure of I will take the time to make a door out of the piece I cut out, maybe I will but not sure it's really necessary for me.

 

All of this ^^^ is me except the cutting-the-hole for the oil filter. I willingly drop the factory steel skid plate. I WANT to have a good look around "up there" as I lay underneath. Just to see what is or isn't happening.

You're gonna love the ease of the Fumoto plus ramp plus metal filter housing (I have one of the rare Jowett Performance housings with the built Fumoto in it!!!).

 

dude good for you for getting this done. You said it yourself, the filter cap is spec'd at only 18-22 ft pounds. It is incredible how such a simple procedure can get cocked up so badly by "dealership techs", I just dont trust anyone else to work on my stuff, esp if its something simple and easy, someone will find a way...

 

Not me, another member. @CMB did this.

 

^Ditto- All makes oil change life much EAISER and less MESS !!

 

Yes I completely agree about SEEING what’s going on for piece of mind !!

 

Yes saw that in another thread a while back - he did a very nice DIY job on the door !

 

Yes, I just found it. It was @CMB

Post #19

https://www.tundras.com/threads/fumoto-valves.38897/

 

Thanks Jim!

 

I finally get to try my ryobi new one+ 18v brushless cut off wheel. I got a smoking deal on a set of tools and batteries that I just couldn't pass up. The angle grinder is the only thing I haven't gotten to use yet. The little oscillating multitool has proven very versatile. I know ryobi gets knocked and I fully understand they ryobi isn't close to Milwaukee or Mikita quality but is was between ryobi and ridgid and ryobi won out based on tools per dollar. So far I like every tool I have used. Anyway, I'll be cutting a hole soon, and will try to find some stainless hardware and use my rivet gun to make a door.

 

I just recently picked up that same filter tool and also replaced my filter housing with that metal one. My plastic one came out just fine but I remember them being a struggle to deal with when over tightened from my days of being a mechanic years ago, it seemed like a great improvement to me as well. That tool seems pretty decent quality so that's really saying something for how tight your housing was if it was damaged like that in the process!

 

I picked up a Stahlbus as well, a lot of people say that it drains slowly, but for me that's just time that I can use to inspect everything else on the truck. Going to order one of those Motivx oil filter drain hoses, that's the only real part I've disliked about changing my own oil on the 5.7. Yes to ramps, metal filters canisters, and always yes to BG EPR and MOA.

I really want to convince the wife to let me get a quickjack, ever since I discovered that Sam's/My local Toyota have been hammering my lug nuts down, I had to put my spare on because of a pinhole leak in the sidewall, bestusedtires is sending me a new tire for free and reimbursing me the mount and balance, but my electric impact couldn't take it off, so I grabbed my tq wrench to see what they were at, and it clicked at 97 ft/lb, 120 ft/lb, and 180 ft/lb. Absolutely insane, no wonder my rotors are warped. I'll rotate my own tires.