Crackhead resurrection

Noah, Does that stubby Milwaukee impact you have become useful over a larger one with wobble socket extensions for any particular work on the Tundra ?

Reason I ask is I bought two of them already and both have issues with the 4th mode for taking off lug nuts. They don’t seem to slow down after they get loose. I’m thinking about just upgrading to their mid-torque model instead.

 

I use it for general disassembly/reassembly. That 3/8" drive impact doesn't have enough ass to bust lug nuts that have been properly torqued to spec in ANY of its modes. Personally, I don't see the "not slowing down" after they are busted loose as an issue. I'd give their mid-torque a spin. I still haven't replaced my high torque gun.

 

Yes theyre both the same part#. Sorry for the late reply. 27mm socket. Came out surprisingly easy. I was worried to be honest. And yah, pricy little buggers. 600$+ for both in canadian doll hairs

 

No worries Tyler! I think I'm going to pass on that until I "have" to

 

I would recommend that. Removing the intake manifold really isn't that big of a deal. It you pop enough hoses off, you only have to remove the intake manifold to block bolts, and don't have to touch the fuel rails. You can lift it up enough and roll it over and lay it upside down ontop of your fuse box. Not a hard job. Just. Gotta do it haha

Edit:
I would also recommend having an assortment of plumber style hose clamps handy...and when you come across those annoying Corbin style clamps, replace em. When they're a pain in the a$s to come off...they're even worse to put back on. In my opinion.

 

Are you saying it doesn't have an electric brake, i.e. when you let off the trigger, it doesn't stop immediately, just keeps spinning?

I hated my old Dewalt for that reason. It made the conversion from air to electric much more difficult for me. I prefer instant braking, electric or pneumatic.

 

Mine has an electric brake. I think he means that in mode "4" the "nut-busting torque" is supposed to taper off once it gets stuff broke loose? It's been so long since I even used that impact that I can't remember

 

@Jack McCarthy I haven't seen this video, but it's project farm. So probably good info in there???
https://youtu.be/dsZSg_aiNUE

 

Yep, that’s right. It seems to be inconsistent in the way it works from one tool to the next.

 

My McGeorge order shipped today! Got the email at 12:12 pm.

 

I'll do my best to get that alt packed up today. Had the 4Gal tub of LVT adhesive show up today, so I've got a nice thick-wall box ready, just gotta test fit, and cut the box down to size.

 

No worries on time delays. Crackie is just sitting idle currently. The corolla virus is taking the brunt of my mileage. Lol

 

Parts are expected to be delivered this coming Friday. On the 28th. I'm excited!

 

It's like the lottery. You legit don't know if it's actually going to be the right thing or not, but you've got your fingers crossed hoping for the best!

 

Exactly! Hoping for the best!!

 

Parts have arrived! Welcome to my unboxing post!

https://youtu.be/sAXZbfLzJUg

Well, the part number is right. Let's hope the rest is right. Let's open it up!


Bubble wrap? Hell yeah! Free entertainment!


Well, that don't look right...


Well, the nut is right at least...


https://youtu.be/OTLmD2kFDm0

I'll have to send that shit back, and try another part... anyways, here's stats on the box it came in. Pretty cool.


@empty_lord do you have any idea what that stud is supposed to be for?

@shifty` can you help me figure out another part to order? I'm at home, and can't really see the diagrams on mobile, and do not have access to a desktop/laptop.

 

You got me at this point. That was the only part number that made sense. Sorry man, didn't make you buy something you can't use.

 

off hand. unfortunately not

 

No worries! I made the decision to buy it, not you. I guess I'll have to call mcgeorge, and see about a return or if they can tell what it's for.

NBD.

 

@Roman, I know that the store you have is closed, and that of this post... you have not been around since July 1st, but if you pop back on the forum... I'd love your help with this.

 

I ordered a Denso 2.0 Kw starter today from rockauto along with two new wiper blades as crackies are plumb wore out. @CodyP

Here's a link to those blades. Trico Ultra 19"

 

I like those Tricos, I just put them on my Nissan last week.

 

Glad to hear some positives already! I figured I'd just take a chance on em because I'd never heard of them before.

Lots of rain up in your neck of the woods in the past week? Been drizzly, and pissy here, but I've been in the virus so it doesn't matter that much.

 

Trico is all I used prior to finding the Bosch "beam" blades. Trico is the best bang vs. buck though.

 

Hell yeah. I thought about ordering the Denso beam blades, but they were $13 a pop...

 

It's been off and on, but I'll take 70 degree weather in November. Usually it's snowing by now

 

@des2mtn see this message, and the ones immediately after it.

 

So... after looking at this and the "original" thread of the big three upgrade, it makes a little more sense to me. You might have the right idea of a solution when you say adding some sort of spacers behind the ear. Re-use the original alternator stud/ that part number I gave you with it.

I took this picture from https://www.tundras.com/threads/04-sequoia’s-150-amp-alternator-swap-on-a-00-tundra-the-3-big-upgrades.67222/ and added my own red lines. See how the new 150a alternator has space behind the old mounting ear vs the old 100a? The person that wrote this thread must have had to deal with that somehow I would think since the alternator pulley would be in too far on the new alternator. Notice how they don't have pictures of the alternator installed in their thread? I see Shifty mentioned a stud with a nut behind the ear in the following posts.

 

Hmm that makes me think, but I'm too scattered right now to do the measurements in my head.

I'll just have to see tomorrow when I go to install. Give me a chance to go rural king.

 

This kind of makes a bit more sense to me now. The non towing spec alt stud and towing spec alt stud shouldn't be all that different given the torque spec on your diagrams, the main difference might be the overall length of the stud. With spacers, I'm not sure if the original stud is long enough and would have enough thread engaging to the engine block.

So when I look up the previously suggested 90068-04019 that I believe you ordered, it comes up as a Sienna stud.