Starter and misc.

Hey guys,
Just pulled my starter out. (That was stupid. I hope that engineer has long since been buried.) And before I buy a new one, I assume OE is the way to go? Straight from my Toyota dealer? ALSO, please see picture...I broke a plug off and now will have to try and pull this sensor out of the block..hoping someone can refer me to which sensor this is.
Thanks for your time!

 

Knock sensor?

Also, denso from rockauto is the way to go

 

Wasn't there a heavy duty Denso starter option for colder climates?

Anyway, yes OP. Get OEM. This is NOT a job you want to do again. Once you get the part number, read this: https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113808/

Get new OEM manifold gaskets too.

 

Oh and yes, pretty sure that's knock sensor bank 2, an the other is knock sensor on bank 1, on the right. May as well replace them both while in there, with hopes you won't need to open this up again.

Rats seem to love chewing on those bastards.

 

There was two versions.

DENSO 2800282 Reman Info 1.4 kW; w/o Cold Spec

DENSO 2800233 Reman Info 2.0 kW; w/ Cold Spec


Here's an NTK knock sensor from RockAuto. I personally would go with OEM on those sensors. Either starter above is fine.

 

It’s actually not a bad design to keep it away from the road salt on the underside of the block. It helps to prolong its life unless you like to wash the engine block and let the water pool around the contacts but that’s a different discussion.

Downside unlike a lower block mounting, it’s a huge PIA to remove and replace.

 

If you had click of death just replace the solenoid contacts. The motors are bullet proof. Also buy new connectecters from Toyota and rep in the wires - do not buy aftermarket pig tails

 

Man you guys are quick!
Thanks!
My starter for fun. Pretty sure the gears aren't suppose to be rounded off like that...and the ball bearings are supposed to go all the way around the shaft, haha

 

I'm just curious where the extra half dozen bearings went

 

I was too...than I figured I'm better off not knowing
Hahah

 

They fell into the block? Yikes!

 

I would think more the bellhousing of the transmission ? Maybe worked their way out through an Inspection port. Some where in the woods. Highway?

 

Pretty sure those teeth are supposed to look like this...



What the fuck are those "hoses" for on the RA starter? @tyler-brown... you got any wisdom on that? These? Vents???

 

I do believe you are correct sir. I wouldn't be surprised if my excessive cranking on the motor during my last trial and error with the Yota (When I needed to replace to ECU) caused this wear, and failure of the starter. Also. It was just it's time.
And I ain't got any wisdom on nothing haha. Mine does have the hoses. I suppose for a 30$ core that I won't even use going through rockauto as shipping would be more than that. I could break it open and see what the heck

 

My guess is probably "filtered" breathers to help keep the windings on that little motor cool. Just a hunch though. Pop-er open!!

 

I don't think you are missing balls....its the bearing cage that you're missing, which keeps the balls equally spaced out in the race. Sometimes they are made from nylon, although usually they are steel.

 

I replaced starter on both of my gen1 with Toyota reman, the 2000 failed at 195k and the 2002 failed at 290k

 

I had similar experience with knock sensor ripping the wires out of the sensor. I ended up getting a replacement connector from this person on eBay. Has been working great without issue since May 2022. Quality part and didn't have to deal with splicing wires or connectors.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/262711528408

 

Called the dealership today and gave them my vin number. Truck is the 2.0KW cold weather starter.
1150$ CAD. I laughed. He laughed. And said after ten years of working at Toyota no one has actually bought the tundra starter and always opt for the 450$ after market. I bought a Denso shipped to my door for 285$ Cad (before core). It's not a fun job, but it ain't that bad to justify that much on a starter
I did get him to order up the gaskets and knock sensors

 

I have recently been getting hit hard with duties & taxes getting things from the states. So it has been a hit and miss on deals. And in all honesty. 600$ is still alot for a starter in my opinion haha.

 

I’m at 310k factory starter, just saying.

 

Amen to this!

Denso is Toyota OEM? This part didn't make sense to me. Denso re-man at $285 CAD is going to be almost just as good as brand new Denso direct from Toyota for $1150 CAD.

 

I'd debate hard, as it being more of a pain in the ass, and a what f*$k. Once I accepted this is what I had to do to get to the starter. It's not hard. They're little bolts & nothing is heavy haha.

Well thats fantastic news to me than. Because spending that much on a starter that turns over sucha little motor seems crazy. They're not even that much in the Cummins I have/do own

 

Would you gents happen to know the torque pattern & value?
Thanks

 

NTAKE MANIFOLD AND FUEL RAIL TORQUE SPEC
Intake Manifold 13 ft-lbs
Fuel Rail Torque Specs 8 ft-lbs
Fuel Inlet Pipe Torque Specs 14 ft-lbs
COP's (Ignition Coil Packs) 5 ft-lbs
Spark Plugs Torque Specs 14 ft-lbs
Throttle Body Torque Specs 7 ft-lbs

 

You're a beauty! Thankyou sir!
Luckily only need the intake manifold. Only part that needed unbolting

13ft.lbs seems so low haha

 

One more question!
How does this fit back into the block?
Just a press fit? Tap with a hammer? Is there supposed to be an o-ring on it?

 

I don't believe thst is made to come out, the metal portion at least. It's part of the rear coolant cross over and is not a replaceable part unless you get the entire cross over. I'm sure it can be rigged to be put back in though. Just be sure to check periodically for coolant leal in thst area.

 

I had something similar happen on the V6 with a valve cover purge hose. I JBwelded it back in place instead of changing the whole valve cover out.