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Best practices for lifting a vehicle

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by millertundra78748, Nov 26, 2015.

  1. Nov 26, 2015 at 9:06 PM
    #1
    millertundra78748

    millertundra78748 [OP] Livin' the moon time.

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    New to trucks, and def a noob when it comes to what it takes to customize, so hoping someone can help me here.

    Looking to lift my 20 15 crewmax limited. Don't want to go crazy big so guy at shop recommended 4 inches in front and 2 and back to level it out.

    Questions:

    -Type of lift kit would you recommend? Is there a toyota brand lift kit or all aftermarket?

    -Does anyone else like the the titled look of the truck and would you lift but still keep the tilt intact? Any cons to leaving it like that?

    -Does lifting at this height cause any handling issues?

    Thanks in advance folks.
    Jeff
     
  2. Nov 26, 2015 at 9:24 PM
    #2
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    I recommend max of 3-3.5" in the front and 1-1.5" in the rear.
    New extended length Coilovers in the front.
    Block, add a leaf or extended shackles in the back depending on use. New leaf springs built for the added lift would be best. Also new extended length shocks in the rear.

    I went with toyteclifts.com since they are local and have great kits. I got the ultimate lift and @Sean266 got the Boss kit.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2015
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  3. Nov 26, 2015 at 9:26 PM
    #3
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    3" lift your handling isn't changed much. 3.5" you should purchase new upper control arms to bring the alignment in spec.
     
  4. Nov 26, 2015 at 9:38 PM
    #4
    millertundra78748

    millertundra78748 [OP] Livin' the moon time.

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    Thanks so much for the help. Would it be possible for you to link a couple of the items you are talking about for my reference/education?
     
  5. Nov 26, 2015 at 10:24 PM
    #5
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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  6. Nov 26, 2015 at 10:27 PM
    #6
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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  7. Nov 26, 2015 at 10:40 PM
    #7
    millertundra78748

    millertundra78748 [OP] Livin' the moon time.

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  8. Nov 26, 2015 at 10:57 PM
    #8
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/TOYOTA-4WD/TUNDRA-2007-15/4-quot-SYSTEMS-c1327/

    The big differences are price and added components.

    The 4 " uses a spindle replacement because you can't go over 3.5" lift with stock spindle. Angle on the control arms is too drastic causing premature wear on components if over 3.5" without spindle.
    Kit also has the upper control arms to bring the caster and camber into spec. Not needed on 3" lift but nice to have.
     
  9. Nov 26, 2015 at 10:57 PM
    #9
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    $1,300 vs $2,885 for the basic kit with coilovers.
     
  10. Nov 26, 2015 at 11:01 PM
    #10
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    You can fit 35" tires on a 3" kit so the added price and 1" more lift doesn't help much. Might be able to stuff 37s but really need a 6" for those.
     
  11. Nov 26, 2015 at 11:02 PM
    #11
    millertundra78748

    millertundra78748 [OP] Livin' the moon time.

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    Interesting, the tech at the shop quoted me 799.00 installed. What am I missing here?
     
  12. Nov 26, 2015 at 11:05 PM
    #12
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    Lol then it's just the spindle and spacers. No new front coilovers or rear shocks.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2015
  13. Nov 26, 2015 at 11:08 PM
    #13
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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  14. Nov 26, 2015 at 11:10 PM
    #14
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    It looks the same as the other kits but cheaper rear shocks and you have to use a spacer and stock Coilovers in the front.
     
  15. Nov 26, 2015 at 11:30 PM
    #15
    millertundra78748

    millertundra78748 [OP] Livin' the moon time.

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    I guess he didn't think I needed them unless I lifted above 4". I'm not what you would call a serious off roader, bought it for work to tow and have seen some off roading since I got it and like doing it. Want to make sure I'm getting all the right stuff but safety and reliability come first.
     
  16. Nov 26, 2015 at 11:31 PM
    #16
    millertundra78748

    millertundra78748 [OP] Livin' the moon time.

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    So that's no ideal?

    Appreciate your time and the help here brother.
     
  17. Nov 27, 2015 at 4:25 AM
    #17
    PlatinumPro

    PlatinumPro New Member

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    i personally wouldn't put 4" worth of spacers under a nice truck that you're clearly proud of but to each their own. csuviper has you on a better plan than your local shop. not to mention everything he recommended will retain the nice ride instead of just making it big and stiff... that's what she said lol.
     
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  18. Nov 27, 2015 at 8:20 AM
    #18
    Sean266

    Sean266 #ThinBlueLine Staff Member

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    The only time I see a 4" spacer kit is from a dealer...
     
  19. Nov 27, 2015 at 8:56 AM
    #19
    matluth

    matluth Fish On!

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    18"X9" FN BFD's rims, 295/70R/18E Cooper Discoverer STT Pro's, upgraded to Old Man EMU coil-overs/shocks. Toytec shackles Next: true dual exhaust, new UCA's.
    I vote for calling the ToyTec gurus: 866-254-0076
     
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  20. Nov 27, 2015 at 2:21 PM
    #20
    millertundra78748

    millertundra78748 [OP] Livin' the moon time.

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    She did say that. :cheers:


    Agreed on all, appreciate the feedback. Not sure why my dealer is trying to sell me on a cheaper system. Maybe doesn't know any better?
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2015
  21. Dec 19, 2015 at 10:53 PM
    #21
    equin

    equin New Member

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    From what I understand, there are 2 main front suspension lifts available for Tundras, drop bracket-type lifts and control arm push-down lifts.

    The bracket lifts require major modification and are best left to an experienced shop. They use brackets to relocate the front suspension components downward, thereby lifting the front of the truck upwards. They have the advantage of retaining stock geometry angles and greater lift of anywhere from 3" to 6" usually. But they're expensive, permanent (since they usually require some cutting and re-welding) don't really improve suspension performance, and don't really provide much more ground clearance even with bigger tires (front diff and brackets are placed further downwards).

    The control arm lifts can usually be separated into 2 sub-categories - spacer lifts and strut/coilover lifts. A control arm lift achieves lift by using a longer strut/coilover assembly, which pushes down on the control arm assembly, thereby pushing the front of the truck upwards. These lifts are limited by the available travel, especially down travel, and geometric suspension angles. Too much lift and you sacrifice down travel. You also place the ball joints, especially the uppers, at a greater angle, and if you have 4wd, you place the front CV axles and their boots at a greater angle. Operating at increased angles can prematurely wear the components. 3" is usually considered the maximum safe limit before you use up available down travel and cause excessive premature wear on CVs, ball joints, etc., and have alignment problems (which longer upper control arms may be able to fix).

    A spacer lift uses a metal or polyurethane disc that looks like a hockey puck. It can be placed in between the top part of the coil spring and top plate or on top of the top plate (think the latter is sometimes called a shim). By adding a spacer, the strut/coilover assembly becomes correspondingly longer. The longer the length, the more it pushes down on the control arm assembly. By pushing down on the control arm assembly, the front of the truck is pushed upwards. Spacer lifts are usually the most economical, but offer no added suspension performance since the stock coils and shocks are used. Some say the "in-between" spacer tends to preload or prematurely wear the coil springs' tensile strength, causing them to prematurely sag a bit over time. Others claim they offer a slightly harsher ride due to the preload effect. And still others claim that using top shims that are too thick can cause the upper ball joint to hit the coil spring during droop.

    Longer aftermarket coilovers, like the TRD Pro, Old Man Emu or Bilstein 6112, for instance, achieve lift the same way a spacer does, but they have the benefit of claimed performance. The claim is from the use of bigger diameter shocks. The bigger the shock, the longer it takes for its internal oil to heat up and the better damping it provides (not to be confused with dampening - shocks "damp," they don't "dampen"). When a shock's internal oil heats up, the shock's ability to damp the coil spring's oscillations decreases or "fades." There are also adjustable shocks that use a spanner wrench to increase or decrease ride height, such as the King and Fox coilovers. Another benefit is that you can get fully assembled coilovers that are ready to be bolted on without having to disassemble the stock struts/coilovers. Of course, the bigger the shock diameter, the more expensive it is.

    As for the tilt, that's called "rake." Positive rake has the rear angled upward, while negative rake has the front angled upward. Most trucks come with positive rake so that the truck sits level with a load in the back.

    Hope this helps.
     
  22. Dec 20, 2015 at 1:18 AM
    #22
    Sefferston

    Sefferston #35sandlongtravel

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    King coilovers, Total Chaos UCA's, Total Chaos rear shackle. #done
     
  23. Dec 20, 2015 at 8:29 AM
    #23
    equin

    equin New Member

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    Forgot to talk about the rear. You can use a whole new leaf pack (more expensive), an add-a-leaf, shackles or lift blocks. Since the rear is a solid axle, it's much easier. Better, aftermarket shocks also help.
     
  24. Dec 20, 2015 at 8:35 AM
    #24
    millertundra78748

    millertundra78748 [OP] Livin' the moon time.

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    Thank you sir!


     
  25. Dec 20, 2015 at 11:31 AM
    #25
    Bl@ckBea$t

    Bl@ckBea$t New Member

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    Honestly, go with the 3in lift option. What is your budget in terms of the front lift?

    Don't get spacers. They are cheap and shitty. It's as simple as that. Your ride will stiffin up and your balljoints will be crying.

    Spindle lifts are great but they increase your track width and might lead into rubbing issues on your body mount if you plan to run big beefy tires. They also re use your stock shocks..good for looks but they wont be that great off road. None the less, a good option.

    You could go with Blistien 5100's and set them on the middle setting (1.75in of lift) and add (2) Coachbuilder strut shims on each side to give you a total front lift of 2.75in of lift (.50 lift from each shim). This is the most budget friendly lift that will increase performance and add durability compared to a spacer lift.

    Coilovers are your next option. Costs about $500-1800 depending what shocks you go with. I have a friend that has a set of Fox 2.0 Coilovers that are brand new and is selling for $500 (normally 800). Those provide 2in of lift. Coilovers are the best option to go with but you will be spending some money on them. They will ride the best (super smooth) and you can rebuild these shocks ($50) compared to having to buy new shocks everytime you need to replace them. This is the option i went. I got King 2.5 with resis/adjusters. THE softest setup i've had and well worth the money.

    Stay under 3in of lift to avoid buying new uca's.
     
  26. Oct 5, 2016 at 9:14 AM
    #26
    LiftMeUp

    LiftMeUp New Member

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    Spacers and blocks are always an option. The majority will say they are crap but when it comes down to it, they don't give reasons they just say it's crap. The majority of those that do go that route never have problems and would do it all over again. The best way is all the ones mentioned above. But with that come a heftier price tag so it all depends on the use of the truck and the budget.
     
  27. Oct 5, 2016 at 1:58 PM
    #27
    YotaDan

    YotaDan New Member Vendor

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    The problem with a Spacer lift is when it is all top-spacer providing 2.5+ inches of lift. Since the spacer moves the entire coil/shock assembly down, the suspension is able to droop much further than it was meant to which causes some excess wear and tear on ball-joints, CVs, etc. When the suspension is compressed the shock will end up bottoming out, or being the final stop in up travel in stead of the bumpstops. This can lead to the shocks breaking while used off-road.
     
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  28. Oct 5, 2016 at 2:37 PM
    #28
    TheBeast

    TheBeast Mr Line-X

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    yep..and that's how I busted my stock TRD front shock....now saving for some KINGs..
     
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  29. Oct 5, 2016 at 3:05 PM
    #29
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

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    This.... it's not just a myth.
    Break the spacer between in coil and top coil and it helps.
     
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