New to me 02, questions

Appreciated! But fit isn’t the concern, I’m ready for that. It’s the fact that I don’t want to hardwire anything if I can help it. If I need to cut the plug end off the OEM tweeters and splice them onto the new ones, that’s fine, I’ve just always used harness adapters - and this is the first time I’ve encountered a vehicle where there doesn’t seem to be any harness adapters available at all (at least for the tweeters).

 

I did similar with my JBL, which came with a bucket that had a center-post stem. Just bolted it straight up to the OEM bracket. More info here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st...-unit-whos-got-what.65309/page-3#post-1808193

 

These definitely help to confirm how I’ll mount new ones, so also appreciated! Now, about the harness adapters lol…

Again, I’m fine with cutting the old harness and splicing it onto the new tweeter wires, I just don’t like butchering working parts, even if I’m not gonna use them again.

 

Only assholes cut factory harnesses for radio or speakers. Adapters cost little of nothing and ... I assure you, ever single person on this forum who's opened the dash or doors and found harnesses cut, they would personally like to punch the person who did that in the face.

Don't be that guy.

I used the Metra adapters Crutchfield recommended. But you won't know what adapters you need until you figure out two things:

1. Do you have the factory amplifier, and if you do, is it the JBL version or the standard (Fujitsu) version?
2. Do you have tweeters in the door, and if YES, will you go with components or separates?

#1 is self explanitory. '00-'02 (maybe up to '03) AC and RC trucks had the amp in the dash. See this thread for more info on amp locations and what to look for.

NOTE: That thread is linked from the community megathread which contains a fuckload of audio/camera information everyone should read. Including how to install backup camera, with VERY verbose instructions, lots of pics.

#2 is the biggie. If you have no tweeters in the door, you just adapt the mid, more on that in a sec. If you DO have tweeters in the door, what you use depends on what you decide on your front door speakers.

Options are pretty basic *** if *** you have tweeters in the upper door:

• If you choose to go with components (mid + tweeter) that come with a crossover, you'll do what myself and most other AC/RC owners with tweeters in the door did: Use the Metra adapter, pop off the OEM-installed Y-cable, pop the Metra adapter where the Y-cable plugged into the door harness, and route the wire to your crossover. Good place to mount the crossover is on this flat spot here. Then you'll run wires from the crossover to your mid in the lower door plastic housing, and to the tweeter.
• If you choose to go with separates - which I don't recommend unless you know wtf you're doing - you can either [Y] cut the ends of the OEM Y-cable and replace speakers with the exact same impedance as to not overload your head unit, or [Z] remove the Y-cable and use the Metra adapter, then figure [A] apply bassblockers on the tweeters, and ensure you wire such that you're not throwing a less-than-2ohm or greater-than-4ohm load at your head unit; this will depend on which drivers you choose and their impedance; if you can find two 2ohm drivers, and wire in series, that would do the job nicely to apply a 4ohm load to your head unit. Make sure the positive lead of the Metra harness goes to the positive terminal of the mid first, then route the negative of the mid up to the positive of the tweeter with an inline bassblocker, then from the negative of the tweeter back down to the Metra harness' negative lead. Where you place the cap in-line is crucial to properly orient things. And figuring out how the hell to manage the wiring connections so you don't rip things out when the door panel comes off should be festive.

If you have zero tweeters in the door, i.e. you have the 4-speaker setup, I'm fairly certain the Metra harness will also adapt to the plug in the plastic midrange housing. If that's the case for you, no tweeters, I'd recommend going with a coaxial, although with the tweeter being in the lower position of the door, the sound staging won't be ideal.

Metra makes three radio adapter harnesses for our trucks (link showing which to use).

Metra only makes three speaker adapter harnesses for Toyota trucks and typically speaking people are only using two. Ideally, you will look at the connectors inside your door to see which one(s) you need. The info at SonicElectronix, Crutchfield, and even at Metra's own site, is not great for our trucks. But these are the "Basic three" for all three cab variations:

• 72-9301 (this works for the rear door speaker in the AC trucks, and possibly the lower front mid also, I can't remember, it's been 4-5 years since my install)
• 72-8104 (this plugs in at the Y-connector (circled here) on AC/RC trucks if you use components, this is where you'll get your wire pair to feed the crossover, which will then feed your mids/tweets)

Pics of those last two are HERE, for you to compare to what's in your door

And multiple manufacturers make trim kits for our trucks (link showing your basic three options).

Here is a Crutchfield's Master Sheet for our AC trucks.

Holler if you have questions.

Disclaimer: I reserve the right to be wrong about any of the above.

 

Whoa, hang on, I feel like I must be speaking an alien language or something here

So, none of those adapters are correct for the tweeters specifically, they’re only correct for the woofers. I have a 2002 RC without an amplifier, but I do have the tweeters near the top of the door panel (NOT on the sail panel near the A-pillar, and NOT above and to the left immediate of the woofer). Just the standard component setup for these trucks that’s non-JBL.

The woofers have a totally normal plug that you can get a harness adapter for dime a dozen, no sweat. But there’s not a single harness adapter that is correct for the tweeters - not based on photos or on listed compatibility. The tweeters use a multi-sided J-shaped plug that doesn’t seem to exist amongst the third-party harness adapters out there. So if I can’t find one, then what I’ll do is cut the harness plug off the old tweeters and splice it to the new tweeters, so that I can plug them in same as I would with a harness adapter. I don’t want to if I can find a harness adapter, but if I can’t, then this is the plan. Nothing crazy!

 

If I understood you, yes, no harness to tweets needed b/cuz...
Take a look at this JBL install sheet...its what Im using but havent yet completed install [waiting for re-paint completion].
I believe you would use the Metra harness to plug directly to your door plug [molex?]. Toyota sends audio signal to its factory Mid, and then another separate line to its factory tweet [presuming why the name Y cable]; if replaced by a component sys [like this JBL], the audio signal [shown in JBL dwg as ExtAmp] comes thru the new 'Metra harness' that has direct connect [molex?] to the Toyota signal feed harness at door, THEN into the supplied X-over, THEN YOU will make the feed wires fr/X-over to Mid and Tweets separately as shown on the JBL dwg [w/my notes added].
Like I said, I havent done the install, but have the parts waiting to complete.
If Im wrong about any of this, I can make 'book' on @Shifty driving by in a while to yell at both of us and finish the picture of installing a component system w/out cutting your Toyota feed dongle [molex?]...
Meanwhile, I'll point out that I went the JBL route since thats what Toyota voted for and @Shifty has already done the Beta test...good enuf for him, probly good enuf for most of us...

 

Sorry about that, I swore I saw you had an AC. I'm juggling a lot today, and my head is likely halfway up my ass.

Understand, we see too much of this, so I tend to be a cynical MFer sometimes and use flowery language. It's nothing targeted at you. In case you had that idea.

After going online and trying to find pictures of any RC that didn't have tweeters in the door, I assumed it wasn't a thing - there's no rear doors for speakers, so they put the speakers in front.

What wasn't clear to me how they're wired or what impedance the speakers are. Sadly, the EWD doesn't make that clear at all, Toyota's EWD does a really piss-poor job of showing what happens - for example - at the Y-cable (take a peek, though I may be mis-reading it). I believe they're wiring that in parallel, but adding an electrical component to affect the impedance on the line.

If you can show me the wiring inside the door, and look at the back of each speaker to see the impedance, and bonus if you show me a picture of each connector, I can tell you best approach. Really, I just need to know:

• Is your truck using the standard Y-cable all AC trucks with tweeters use in the door ... or
• Are both of your speakers directly wired separately, using two pairs of wires? (if so, I want to see the connectors at play!!)

When I'm talking about this Y-cable ... at least on every AC I've dealt with on here (so take w/grain of salt) with trucks that have tweeters in the doors, there is one pair of wires coming into the door. On one side the wires are purple and pink. On the other side, they're blue and green. They terminate to a connector in the door. I'll toss two pictures in to try and make it clear. This is the Y-cable, they definitely added some electronics in-line, I'm assuming to manage impedance. Note the color of the circles, they will match up to the 2nd pic showing them in the door:

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Here's where those land inside the door - notice the purple/pink wires to the left of the "DOOR / TO RADIO" plug in this pic also. Again, look at the circle colors, and compare to the circle colors on the Y-cable above. Note the length of each one, and you'll figure out the orientation and wiring, I hope.

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If your door has tweeters, I'm assuming, just like you see in that pic, you've got the same damn thing. i.e. in the driver side door, you'll have a purple and a pink wire going to the red-circled connector (which you'd use Metra 72-8104 to adapt out, and leave your Y-cable intact).

If you pop off your driver's door panel and DO NOT find any of what I'm showing you above, please, take more pics. I'm dying to know what other possible kind of fuckery Toyota could've imagined up for your truck.

If you *DO* have the Y-cable pictured, I'd go with a nice pair of 3ohm JBL components that come with a crossover, remove the Y cable, install the the Metra 72-8104 onto that DOOR TO RADIO connector, install the crossover in the orange triangle (use industrial velcro or a tar-based adhesive), then wire your two speakers from the crossover.

Make sense?

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Makes sense, is partially helpful, didn't take it personally (so you're good! I can see a bunch of others here have done some nonsense in the past now lmao), and I've got the same Y-cable.

One way this is helpful is I wasn't aware of the electronics built into the wiring. My thinking was, if they had any at all, it would simply be a HPF crossover to prevent lower frequencies to reaching the tweeters, though most vehicles have their HPF and LPF crossovers built into the base of the OEM tweeters and woofers, and not along the wiring. I don't think it'd have anything to do with the impedance? But I'm not sure, just isn't something I've encountered, and I haven't read up on anything to do with these trucks' audio systems. In any case, that still leaves me without a harness adapter to plug into the tweeter plug. I won't be using an old-school crossover, I'll be using the newer fangled in-line crossovers that come with most component speakers these days, so it'll be along the tweeter's wiring.

But of note, I'm not going to be using the OEM headunit anymore, so I'll be getting normal 4ohm speakers like always. Unless there's some atypical weirdness going on that I'm unaware of along the radio wiring harness that changes the impedance along the way or something...? I'm aware that the original headunits are super strange in wanting 3ohm speakers (and the single-DIN units wanting a wonky 7ohms, like what I had in my '99 Camry), but I won't be using it, and I don't have an OEM amplifier, so I'm assuming I should be fine in that capacity?

 

OEM tweeter has the cap glued to the basket/magnet to handle HPF/bass blocking IIRC.

Also IIRC, tweeter and mid in front door are both 4ohm. I can look back on my sale pics on here to check, and if you PM me your VIN I can also look up your part numbers and find pics of the magenta.

I really need to untape my OEM Y-harness to see what’s inside. I remember feeling something hard in there, but I still haven’t cracked it open to see, are they running in parallel, in series, are they adding anything in line to bump up or drop down the resistance? I just know they’re going from a single pair to two. Maybe I can crack one open tomorrow.

I’m sure I can find up what the other end of the tweeter connector is (part number) to find an adapter if you really want to know. But if you truly intend to simply swap the speakers, you’ll need to know what that Y-cable is doing [or] select the same impedance tweeter and move the OEM cap to the new tweeter on the same line to mimic it, knowing caps cut frequencies differently at different impedances [or] just replace the Y-harness with the Metra adapter and get a components set with crossover bundled and call it a day.

The reality is, I know I cane the shit out of JBL on here, but the sound quality and warmth of most of their components is great, and there is some innovation in their choice to run 3ohm components, you’d see some benefit.

Anyway, if you’re cool with holding tight I’ll snap off some pics of what I find in the harnesses and I can try to look up that part number on the tweeter connector.

 

Absolutely, I won’t be making any audio purchases for a couple weeks, so I can def wait; the help and photos are / will be appreciated, for sure! And fwiw, I was already looking at a set of JBL Club 64CSQ to install (that have an inline crossover for the tweeter), so I’ll look more into them since you’ve mentioned their advantage!

 

Definitely a good option, or if you intend to go with a lower-power head (OEM head unit for example) anything in JBL’s Concert series will be a winner. The Club series can go either way, head unit powered, or externally amplified. A lot of their higher-end/more spendy stuff caters more towards externally amplified.

I’ll do my best to find those damn harnesses tomorrow and pop one open to post pics. I’ve got a pile of bikes in the shop at the moment I’m halfway thru selling, so it may be a bit of a dig…

 

No worries with rms, I use Sony XAV-AX7000s exclusively in all my vehicles for the built-in 45w x4 rms amp, and in 2ch configs, I bridge for 90w x2. So that should be a decent setup, bearing in mind the 3ohm draw, for the JBL Clubs if I go that route.

And appreciated, thanks!

 

So this is interesting. The Y-cable used on my OEM-amplified (but non-JBL) system, part number is a straight-up parallel circuit:

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That's interesting to me, for my AC with the OEM Fujitsu (non-JBL) amp, because here are my original OEM speakers. All speakers start with 86160- part numbers. My rear door speakers (OEM p/n ending -0C050) are 6ohm. The front midrange drivers (mine are p/n ending in -0C030, but toyota lists -0C040 as another variation) are 4ohm. The tweeters (mine are p/n ending in -0C010 but Toyota lists -0C020 as another variation) are also 4ohm. That would mean the Y-cable would potentially leave you with 2ohm load in front and 6ohm load in rear. Clearly there is front/rear channel separation so they're treating the channels independently (front to rear).

Anyway, regardless what it is ... if your Y-harness has the same part number (82346-0C010) and you want to stick with that versus using components, I would simply un-solder the wires from the OEM tweeter and splice on your new connectors rather than cut the factory Y-harness and you have an instant adapter harness. At least this way, if you ever wanted to go back to stock, you could easily yoink some tweeters from a junkyard/parts truck and plop things back together, or just re-solder the wires back to the tweeter.

If you really want to simply trust whatever Toyota is doing won't impact you, which may leave you with a 2ohm load on the front channel, Toyota lists the Tweeter connector as T7 or T8 if I'm not mistaken, and that's part number
90980-10906 for AC/RC trucks (hey DC ppl, your 4-pin tweeter connector is 90980-11012). But that's for the female side attached to the wire harness, you need the male side (more text after this pic):

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For the life of me I can't find the part number for the female side. Most connectors start with the prefix "90980-" and sometimes the final 5 digits will be embossed on the connector somewhere, but you may need a magnifying glass to see it.

Anyway, all that said ...

That Sony head unit you have is one of the beefiest XAV-AX Sony sells from a power standpoint. If I were you, knowing I had that power at hand but also being thoughtful of heat, I'd honestly just go with JBL something with higher power handling, buy the Metra harness to replace the Y-harness, and wire them up without the Y-harness. Since you have no real front/rear channel and whatnot. I'd actually consider using the rear channel for a mid-range fill to pop into the b-pillar plastics.

 

That last paragraph is the route I’m gonna take (minus the rear fills) given your findings and that the JBLs tweeters connect to a split-off set of prongs from the woofers, which makes things easy. I did the same with my ‘99 Camry CE when I went from coaxial to component JL Audio’s, and that was no sweat. The only reason I’m not gonna do any rears is 1) This isn’t a daily driver, and 2) The JBL Clubs can handle up to 95w rms, so I’m down to let them carry their weight on their own since the Tundra is stupid loud going down the road vs my Camry, it’s not like I’ll gain anything by fleshing out a whole setup when the wind and tire noise is comparable to my old ‘79 J10 lol.

I appreciate everything you did here, this actually helped me to confirm what route to take and which speakers to get!

 

I'm only replying with this info for future onlookers, or maybe for my own reference.

It appears the tweeter connector female, on the Y-harness, is Sumitomo 6520-0550. It would appear the male, on the tweeter side, is Sumitomo 0549. Alternately, it looks like Yazaki also has a part, 7282-1028 for the Y-connector side, and 7283-1028 for the tweeter side.