What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I didn't consider disconnecting the battery to get it to relearn but I'm definitely going to do this now. Thanks

 

May be a dumb question but do you have to jack the front end up to replace sway bar bushings?

 

In theory, on flat/level ground, no. When I replaced mine I had to lift up one wheel a bit to get it to line up.

 

It’s easier to just remove the sway bar completely

 

I'm surprised you had that experience. It's why most of us use a OTR puller. Which tool did you use?

 

I didn’t but I am lifted. Make sure you do it after the truck has been parked for a while.

that ac water is not fun to hangout in and it drips all over you, Plus hot cats

 

Speaking of sway bars...does anyone know if the part # is stamped or labelled on the bar itself? I can't see anything from below and need to replace the sway bar links, cushions, and retainers. I discovered a broken and missing top on my RH SB link when working on my steering and suspension back in August. Probably change the bushings out as well @ 21 yr and 225k.

I have a problem in identifying the correct parts for my 04 AC. I have a larger factory sway bar that, theoretically, should not be on my truck at either 27 or 28 mm - depending on where I measure. From what I understand the standard bar for the AC trucks is 24 mm. I think the off road package included a larger SB and Bilstein 4600s which my original struts weren't. Does anyone know what size the off road SB is (26.5???). Looking at the parts EPC (Amyama) yields the standard bar and the off road one. Is the latter only for TRDs?

Of course, it could be the DC or Sequoia bar...no clue. Could use an assist on this one.

Also, I have been under the impression all along that the cushions and retainers were the Type A (2pc). But the more I think about it, they might be the Type B (1 pc). Does anyone recognize the type from the picture below??? Do the Type B retainers (washers) have a metal sleeve that fits inside the cushion (SB link bushing)???



This may be better posted in a new thread but thought I'd get some feedback to get started. If so will relocate and start a fresh thread. Not sure if this is considered bad form...lol

 

I'm running behind on my contributions to the board. Maybe some day I will start a new thread from the perspective of a DIY cheechako wrenching on a frugal budget. Till then, here are a few tidbits from my suspension work in late Aug that included OEM LBJs and OTRs along with Sankei 555 ITRs referenced here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2165#post-3731663.

I used the PowerBuilt front end service kit from Advance Auto as a loaner tool for OTR and LBJ removal.



I really wanted to use all the tools in the kit and report back. Many posts had recommended the small Pittman arm tool (#5 in the tool case) for the OTR removal and I think it was either @Jack McCarthy or @jerryallday that really favors the tie rod end lifter (#2), along with the Toyota Maintenance guy for the OTRs. TM guy also likes the 2-jaw puller for LBJs.

Due to time constraints, I was only able to use 2 of the kit tools - the small Pittman Arm puller (#5) for OTRs and the larger Pittman puller (#6) for the LBJs.

Here are some pics of the set-up used for OTR removal.









I installed the OEM LBJs and OTRs one day, reattached the tie rod ends using thread counts and positions marked with paint pen, and threw the tires on. The pre-project photos were a big help as a reference point for returning the tie rod ends to their original position. Then drove home in a silky smooth ride while running out of daylight. The next day I detached the new OEM OTRs. Removed the old ITRs using the AutoZone loaner Inner Tie Rod Removal tool, moly- greased the steering shaft while extended, and installed the new Sankei 555 ITRs.






Finished project...no damage done.






I know...the sway bar is part of the next project...discovered during this one.

 

Nice work. I wonder if you had a leak at that not tight nut? Might have helped with the idle too.

 

Parts specific lookup by VIN info here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113808/

That should get you info based on the specific VIN#. There are so many variations year to year, it’s better to just look it up directly; not sure if/when the diameters changed, if that change is based on year, can type, package, and/or “other”.

 

Replaced the wobbling fan bracket. No AC/condenser really has made going in deep like this (pulling rad) quite a bit easier. Considering my amature status, and "Pure Michigan" rusty truck, 4hrs wasn't too bad in my mind. Two bolts were sacrificed to the salt gods. A good hour was spent on those two with heat, pounding, and working them back and forth to no avail. One of them I'm just not fishing out, period. If 7 bolts won't hold that little bracket, 8 never would have . Got dark on me but I wrapped her upand got ALL the coolant back in (about a pint left that went into the reservoir). Only thing I want to do is burp it on a hill so I get my heater core purged of any air... max heat performance. Went in raw dog and didn't study or watch any vids like I usually do. Knowing this truck pretty good pays some dividends. Only unexpected curve ball was having to remove the small lower support bracket on the AC pump for acces to one of the two side/horizontal bolts. All in all I'll take the win with this repair.
TB looked fine, but will get done in 25. Forgot to route the crank and oil sensor wires hahaha, only about a 5 minute setback to fish them down through, NP.

 

Good eye. I didn't sand that surface to remove corrosion for a better seal but I probably should have. Maybe I'll do it when I'm doing the timing belt

 

Fuck yeah! Like our good friend @Darkness used to say, "swaybars? We don't need no stinking swaybars."

 

My inners are going bad already on my Detroit axle rack. Considering the outers are Moog, I'm gonna assume the inners are as well. 2 years and around 6-8k miles.

 

I may go OEM on the inners if the $200 price tag I see is for both of them considering several dealerships are offering 25% off and free shipping. I need to call my local dealership to see if they’ll price match.

Sort of torn about it. Don’t want to do it again but may have to buy a new rack soon anyway.

Edit: Sratch that. The near $200 price is for EACH of them.

 

Last minute MERUS prep

Temp fridge tie down location and cut my yoga mat flooring to fit

Temp 12v socket with the wrong color wire

I guess this drawer might be handy after all

 

After 312k, my trans bit the dust. Pulling one tomorrow to slap in it next week. Really wish I had 4wd conversion money right now, but oh well.

 

Did it give you any signs before failure? Im coming up on 280k with plans to do a lot of driving next year. I guess there's no time like the present to pick up a spare.

It's nice to see your name popping up around here again!

 

I love my old truck but sometimes working on it drives me crazy. Went to change occ valve today. Everything came out fine went to move the hose and it disintegrated into three pieces. Of course that’s not just some thing I can run out and grab. Damn

 

If the wire is wrong color put a piece of tape around it in the correct color(s).

 

I’d love mine even more if I didn’t have to deal with yearly inspections. Shit to fix/replace at the wrong time.

 

yea and to make matter worse I ordered the parts while my wife’s Highlander was in for the service package it came from. The kid only ordered one of my away bar bushings. He tried to explain he only ordered one because it only has one part number and I had to explain that yes, however, there are two of them. Smh

 

I used a tie rod puller. It pulled the tie rod well, but also bent it. More than likely was user error.

 

Occ valve?

Move to a free state. No inspections here. And almost no road salt. Win win.

Oh, and no state income tax.

 

it did not give me any sign. It downshifted coming off the highway and the internals made loud banging and metal grinding noises

 

dang, that sucks man.

 

it happens. Almost 25 years old and that many miles, I’m not mad at it

 

Damn autocorrect, pcv valve.

 

Are inspections a mostly east coast thing?