What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

I'll see when I get it separated from the core trans they gave me. At the drive line flange, it's only 1-1/2" longer than stock.

 

Just bought AJT designs 4x4 and climate control knobs.

 

With the transmision for $50?

I'm assuming you will be a custom drive shaft and prop shaft?

 

Yes, they included the trans, but it's a core only. They had torque convertor/trans issues that caused them to pull the entire unit and swap with a junkyard pair.

For the driveshaft, you get the OEM driveshaft shortened 1-1/2", rebalanced, and it's GTG.

 

Is there a thread on this? What about wiring?

 

Here you go.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...013-tundra-to-full-time-awd-capability.54474/

 

$26 M14x1.5 Lug Nuts, Wheel Accessories Parts Set of 24 Black Locking Lug Nuts with 7 Spline Lug Nut Key,14x1.5 Lug Nuts for Chevy, GMC, Cadillac,Ford F150 F250, Toyota Tacoma/Tundra/Camry

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TZYQ7ZJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...013-tundra-to-full-time-awd-capability.54474/[/QUOTE]

I bought a set of 5 steelies off ebay for my 1st gen years ago. I imagine a search there would provide results you're looking for. Think i paid around $100 a wheel with free shipping.

 

Finished replacing the radiator, thermostat, water pump, serpentine belt and upgraded Mishimoto radiator hoses. Drives, doesn't overheat or leak.



Overall it was a challenging 8-hour project, largely spent fighting with hard-to-access bolts and hoses. Both my hands bled multiple times. There's a very specific order for reassembly and nobody tells you that order, so I had to disassemble a few times to access hoses or bolts that I missed and had blocked (by, say, installing the thermostat housing). Still, I got it done and I'd never done anything similar before. I used several YouTube videos.

I can't fully recommend the Mishimoto radiator. It's very high quality but the plastic side mounting brackets don't mount flush at the bottom; they stick out about half an inch. I had to use a jack and a wedge to flex the brackets over enough to mount them in the existing mounting points... And those bottom screws are already extremely hard to install because you have to line them up through a small hole in the bumper with about 18" of extension and a wobble joint.

Anyway here's a before picture:


Note that my hood lights were very useful and my voltage cutoff worked properly and turned the lights off before draining the battery too far. It left me enough juice to start and automatically turned back on when the alternator charged the battery.

 

Finally got around to swapping parking brakes with a buddy
Now need to adjust so they actually engage and work.
The adjustment but and lock nut are rusted and will require some penetrating oil.
That's work for when it's not a million deg outside

 

There was a video in the gen 2.5 thread. You are supposed to adjust just like old school drums. The star adjuster.

 

morimoto xb headlights
Grille from Ali baba
Plastidip the front bumper&rear

 

Had to get new tires so decided to get new rims too method 316 with falken wildpeak



to this

 

Much better!

 

What mirrors are you running? I'm leaning towards the signals on my mirrors.
Anyhow, the new shoes look nice. Wild peaks will last long than the Goodyears too.

 

Those look much better.

When I was growing up, there was an elderly retired gentleman living down the block who would trade in his car for a new one whenever he needed new tires.

 

Replaced the front rotors and pads, and it took about an hour. I would have been less but wrestling those tires back on is a challenge. Have to let my back recover than do the rears next weekend. I can't believe the dealer wanted $1200 to do front and rear.

 

Well, it's been a fail today for me. I tried gravity bleeding brakes, so I squeegee out old brake fluid(which looked fine btw), put new fluid back in. Go to rear left tire, open nipple and .....and? No fluid is coming out So, thinking it's probably not enough suck, I try opening right rear as well, but she's too tight. In fact, the nipple rounded out

why, gang!!!

Anyways, tightened everything back up and proceeded replacing steering fluid. That actually went very well. Uneventful.

Lifted front and squeegied out old fluid in reservoir and filled new. Turned wheel like 20 times back and forth, started engine and did same another like 20 times. Squeegied out, new fluid in reservoir. Everything x5.

Went through the whole quart. It was actually cherry colored when I started taking out 'old' fluid, which was maybe 7yrs old.

 

New driver side front axle wheel bearing installed tonight. Purchased the preassembled Koyo bearing assembly off Ebay. Broke the abs wire bracket mounting bolt and the sorry ass dust shield is scraping like hell.......but the bearing isn't growling anymore. Front end alignment set for this weekend.

 

Just oem tow mirrors since I got a good deal on them .. only really tow during hunting season though

 

I wouldn't go back to standard mirrors, I tow only during the summer.

 

Rule of thumb for any project: Material is only 1/4 to 1/3 of the cost; the rest is labor. So, being most decent 4 rotor and brake pad kits are approx $400, $1200 is about right (especially for a dealer).

 

Bought new front wheel bearing/ hub assemblies.

 

"What have you done to you're 2nd gem tundra"
Does someone else to do it count?

Anyways, to business: got my brakes flushed and they replaced rounded off bleeder screw. Also put red caps on them(adds 7hp per wheel). Also had them do diag. for tpms. Total was $160.

They also added some other stuff that they recommend doing.

Replace rear shocks $430
Replace spark plugs $365
Steering flush $130 (I actually did it myself yesterday)
alignment $90

They also said my front tpms need replaced. One is low battery and other isn't reading anything. $335

I declined all other services. Do they look reasonable? btw, they said they reset tpms, but they might come back on. I drove home about 20 mins and nothing showed up yet.

How do you know shocks are bad? My truck isn't humping its rear end

Thank you gang!

 

That is the only one I have an issue with. For that price, it better have included new ignition coils.

 

Actually, I take that back. "Replace rear shocks $430" Those are super easy to change out. I hope they gave you upgraded shocks in that cost as well.

 

Agreed with the shocks, as I'm sure they put the cheapest units they could find on there and probably took all of 20mins.

I feel like I spent well over $100 just purchasing OE spark plugs, and it might have taken me close to 2 hours for install... tho I did clean MAF and throttle body while I was in there. Either way, it's a far more time consuming job than rear shocks.

 

Thank you, gang. I'm planning to do spark plugs around 150m mills, that'll be probably take me little less than couple years to reach, I'm at 137k right now.

To clarify, all those extras they tickled on were optional. They didn't do them. I only had my tpms diagnostic only and brake flush.

 

Today I installed the bed stiffeners I made.

I carry steel on the bedrock and wanted to avoid any tearing.

 

Those stiffeners don't look very convincing, gang.

(To clarify, personal expert olinion:
I don't think they extend far enough to be of much help and mounting bolts will probably back out or pull the frame. Better than nothing I suppose.)