General Supercharger Thread

I have/will again go with LTH eventually. I've always read the same things about them. They give more HP and less boost at same RPM's. In my mind, that means less stress on internals for more HP(?), more airflow in should require more airflow out

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1705-headers-vs-exhaust-manifold-supercharger-ls-engine-dyno-test/

Conclusion:

Run with the headers, the Mast-headed, Kenne Bell-supercharged 427 produced 861 hp (at 6,600 rpm) and 714 lb-ft of torque. A peek at the dyno graph will reveal we revved the header combo 200 rpm higher (where it produced 872 hp), but even at the same 6,600 rpm, the headers offered 20 hp. The peak boost registered at 6,600 rpm dropped slightly with the headers from 7.9 psi to 7.7 psi. It is obvious from the results that headers improve power on naturally aspirated and supercharged combinations.

The pulse tuning offered by the headers was present regardless of the presence of positive pressure in the intake tract. The same is true of intake manifolds, as long-runner intakes still offer pulse tuning under boost. Tested on this Kenne Bell-supercharged LSX, the headers improved the power output from 841 hp and 709 lb-ft of torque to 861 hp (872 at 6,800 rpm) and 714 lb-ft of torque. Truth be told, the lack of runner length in the Kenne Bell lower intake probably had as much of an effect on the outcome of the header test as the presence of boost, but the blown stroker still worked best with the long-tube headers.

 

They look nice:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/new-5-7-doug-thorley-long-tube-headers.119366/

 

That's what I understand as well, boost is a measure of restriction, basically more air going into the head than can be processed and exhausted out of the head, the headers alleviate some of this pressure so the head can flow more. HP is a direct result of CFM, so the more you can get through your head the more power you'll unlock. The stock pistons are prone to issues resulting from heat and shock, the limit with the stock rods is RPM. Tuning is the key in controlling all three of those and pulling power before it becomes a problem, but then you're only pushing the envelope to become "that one guy that ran his Tundra at 700HP on the stock internals...until he didn't".

 

If you’re going magnuson and not looking to get carried away i would personally go with the 2.3 pulley, 650cc deatschwerk injectors and deatschwerks 300c 340LPH pump, and a custom tune. I have that setup on my Harrop with an 80mm pulley which is about the same amount of air/boost and it’s just right. Runs great, reliable, no problems, just get in and enjoy it. Should be in the 600ish crank hp range.

 

Is there a knock off issue with this pump?

 

The Deatschwerks or the Walbro?

 

Deatschwerks. I know Walbro has an issue, I need to order a pump

 

Not that I’m aware of. Could order off their website to be sure. They make a kit for the tundra. It gets installed just like replacing the stock pump. It’s the highest flowing pump that fits in there like OEM to my knowledge.

 

LTH collection

https://www.tundras.com/threads/question-for-supercharged-trd-pro-owners-w-pro-exhaust.111463/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/supercharger-and-stock-exhaust.62608/#post-1640490

https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-44#post-2602545

https://www.tundras.com/threads/trd-dual-exhaust-looks-sound…-for-less.99166/#post-2542097

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1bXPNy1Yn4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xjb9Xelrmo

https://youtu.be/5HL_VSFDEVg

https://youtu.be/kBQjBMiYW3E

 

Ordered from their site. I just want to be done. I'm going to order fuel line too & get rid of the plastic hoses just in case. What did we land on being the best?

 

What I eventually used

$26 Gates 27097 Submersible Fuel Line Hose-1' Length, Inner Diameter 3/8"

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001R5XX56?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

Email confirming the order says 4-5 business day shipping, called and was told expedited shipping is not expedited handling, we're slammed it will be 4/10 the earliest. I canceled the order.

 

Thanks, how many do I need? 2?

 

I just used the one to replace the feed line from the new pump, and also for the radium venturi

 

So to do both feed & return & the Radium I'd need 2? I'm ripping it all out & going new.

 

Just the one covered both. I used 8" of plastic PTFE hose for the syphon part of the Venturi. But you could just get a second Gates hose for that part.

 

I'm just afraid of everything at this point. I thought I had covered every angle but I'm ripping it apart & starting over & I just want this to be it!

I'll order 2 & go from their Thanks!

 

It said 1 left, I ordered it and ordered another that it said would be delivered Saturday

 

What was your specific issue(s) that caused you to get this harness?

 

Ya, interesting. I emailed and got a reply from him Sunday. He didn't suggest anything, but we really weren't on that subject. I was just updating him on a glitch that we were experiencing with my tune (it turned out to not be the tune) that I'd sorted and I asked a tune related question that he didn't have information about. I miss the drag strip videos...

 

Hopefully your order is on track for delivery.

Mine was supposed to be delivered today and now it shows running late with a new expected delivery date of April 5 - April 6. It notes if it doesn't arrive by the next day (4/7) I can cancel for a refund. Problem is that I leave on Thursday for CA and don't return until Sunday afternoon and my install date is Monday morning. If it doesn't show up on time I don't have time to order another one at that point.

Just placed an order for another kit from Summit with next day air so I'll get it on Thursday.

 

Mine says tomorrow but not shipped.

 

No pics but I just swapped out my 85mm Harrop pulley for the 80mm. First pulley swap here and it took under 15 minutes.

Easy peasy how to:
Broke free the 4 bolts on the pulley while the belt is still tight. Loosened tensioner with my 1/2” breaker bar and was able to jam it on top of the sway bar to keep tension off the belt. Swapped pulley, blue Loctite 4 bolts, put belt back on all the various pulleys it moved off of, release breaker bar on tensioner, and then finally use my imaginary torque wrench to snug up bolts.

 

I'll chime in from the peanut gallery. As I usually lurk or worse say wrong sh1t.

I am Harrop w/ 80mm pulley + 650cc injectors. I use the fuel pump that came with the Harrop. whatever that is.

So, I'm a "base" stage 2. my intake is stock.

I love it. it's my daily driver.

if you decide to jump in, but not wanting get your head under water....do a base stage 2, like @Silver17 said.

Get it done at a shop that has done a few.

get it tuned on a dyno at the same shop. aim for 10's AFR at WOT.

a TRD exhaust makes things sound great.


then, life will be good.


this whole stage 2 kit is avail at Harrop for a single purchase. or at it was at some point.

oh...and put in cooler spark plugs...because someone said so.

 

Good deal lol. I like to tinker a bit as well. Just can’t with this truck as it is daily driver/work out of it and can’t afford for it to be down with this and that. Posted a while back that I have stock Maggie setup OTT tuned and love it. Just wanted a bit more. I also have a coworker who has a whipple on his 5.3 Silverado and need to show him the deal lol.

 

It shipped!

 

Honestly if there's any single modification with a stock supercharger, or if looking to bump the power, I think it's getting a wideband AFR gauge. Everything else to support more power is an assumption, but a wideband will actually tell you cold hard facts like if you're running out of fuel and how safe your tune is. There is a lot of data and knowledge it gives in real time, and it's an easy install if you can find someone with a welder and 5 minutes of their time.

 

Without it the fuel pump doesn't come on at key turn and it takes a little bit to build pressure so the truck doesn't always start right up and cranks for a few seconds.

 

The fuel jumper harness is to remedy the issue of the aftermarket FPRs not holding pressure after shutdown. @ZPhilip is using the OE style FPR which should maintain fuel pressure, so that’s probably not his issue. It’s more likely going to be tune related in regards to the airflow adder based on coolant temp as well as the larger injectors effecting the startup fueling. If the airflow adder adjustment doesn’t fix it, adjusting the injector pulse width at startup is probably the next step based on what I had read on the issue.

 

I had the slow(er) start with the oem FPR fwiw. It's only a few cranks vs immediate, not that big a deal imho