Valve covers, fix or leave

IIRC, PCV valve is something on the maintenance schedule to check every 5k and replace every 20k? I can't recall for the life of me which it is. Usually if you pop it off and shake, if it rattles, it's typically good. With how varnished my heads were, I replaced around the same time as my VC gaskets.

@txagg had a field day snapping off VC bolts. But mine came off clean. If you're in a salty/rusty area, I'd warm up the engine with a 15-20 mile drive, then tighten 1/16-1/8 turn before backing out. If you apply direct heat, you'll burn the rubber/steel combo washer, but you should replace anyway, with the bolts - I put part number for an inexpensive package for those in reply # 18.

 

On the earlier first gens the PCV presses into a grommet somehow and that grommet gets hard over time. I've heard of people loosing pieces down into the valve cover when trying to remove the PCV. For this reason I haven't touched mine and have no clue how bad it is. I don't think it's worth the risk.

 

I hear you on that. In this case, it's something I'd do while doing the valve covers if your concern levels are higher. If the valve cover is off, no risk involved, then you have a set date on when the maintenance was done, and can re-perform at comfortable intervals.

 

I may have missed the primary focus on this thread. Yeah if you're already pulling valve covers definitely knock it out then.

 

If it truly is pop-in as you say, as I've seen others say it was, and you wanted to maybe do it more safely, consider using 3-in-1 or similar light oil on the gasket itself a few days in advance, around the base of the PCV. This should help get into the rubber, making it less brittle, and also help break any bond between the metal PCV and the rubber seal. But you'll probably want to have a replacement rubber seal to replace the old one. Toyota p/n: 1119370010 (link)

It's weird though, I looked up the 2001 AC SR5 part number for the PCV and it shows 1220450030, which is threaded... (see for yourself)

Most easy to see in the 5th exploded here: https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2..._51507_6707302/CYLINDER-HEAD/841420-1104.html

Hard to make sense of it, but it appears they're saying 11202 is the PCV, 11193A is the gasket.

 

Hmm maybe I need to take a gander again and see but I really thought it was the grommet style "press" in. I think it was 03 when they changed maybe? Not sure now.

 

I've also heard others with '02 and earlier say it was a press-in affair. I just can't argue with what's showing in the parts catalog either. See if you see a hex provision on the PCV. May need to relocate or move some foam. I can't remember what side the foam was on in mine. I damn sure needed to change mine, I don't think it'd been done since the truck was new.

EDIT: Searching this part number (1220450030 or

$19 12204-50030 TOYOTA Genuine Parts - Valve Sub-Assy, Vent (12204-50030)

12204-50030) here on the forum may lead you to the posts from the past where someone mentioned that wasn't the right part for earlier model. I'm just confused why that would be the only PCV in the OEM parts catalog for your year if it wasn't the right part.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if mine was original. Hell my spark plugs were more than double the gap they were supposed to be. No timing belt record. Think the last guy just drove it and changed the oil. To be fair though, no issues related to anything I could think of that would be caused by a bad PCV.

 

I did the job a few months ago on my 99’ Taco, PCV grommet was crusty, I popped it out in pieces with the valve cover upside down.

I’m glad my Tundra‘s is threaded.

 

I'd be willing to bet they're all loose if nobody's been in there before. I snapped one of mine, but it was while tightening. It's on the top side so I haven't messed with it.

 

Oh yeah.... I think I was able to get maybe half of the bolts out without breaking. Then the others I had to drill and tap.

pictures of this debacle in my build thread...
I don't remember removing anything to gain access.
I would start with penetrating oil and some heat. S L O W L Y start backing the bolt out and if it moves, start to tighten it up again, just to work it loose. Keep dowsing it with the penetrating oil, and you might get lucky. If not, you can always drill them out.
I have a 90 degree cordless drill, which really helps make this job go easier. Buy a good set of bits and go at it slow and steady. They all may come out without breaking!

The VC removal starts here;
https://www.tundras.com/threads/my-...epair-modify-thread.71679/page-7#post-2058838

 

Just in case anyone is looking for the “push on” style pcv valve I think I found it under

$13 12204-50020 Toyota Ventilation Valve - 12204-50020

12204-50020 I’ll be ordering it from Toyota hopefully it’s the correct part.


EDIT:
I think this is also the grommet that is necessary for it as well: 90480-18001

 

Will be doing mine too. Have had short term success retightening but just planning that until gathering parts and finding time for the job.

 

Shifty, what’s your opinion on tube seals stop seeping after PCV valve replacement if the over pressure was reason for seepage. I have less than 20k on VCG pcv valve was not done then and it has 210k

 

I mean, if your PCV valve isn't working as intended and you build up pressure, the plug tube seals is where I'd expect stuff to leak first.

 

So I think the 2007 uses a threaded PCV so swapping it is straight forward for like $10 and seeing if the leaking stops? If yours uses a grommet then risk is it crumbling at that mileage and falling below the cover when trying to remove the PCV.

 

It's super easy to test functionality. It's a one-way valve, if I'm not mistaken. Pop it off, test. If failed, replace. I replaced mine proactively recently. I want to say the service lifetime on PCV valves is really short from the Toyo maintenance info.

 

It is threaded and I picked it up from dealership yesterday I plan on doing it this weekend

 

Wasn’t stuck but rattles less than the new one and less movement for sure. I did have oil in my intake line. Positive for some left side tube seal seepage

 

You can only tighten them for so long until it won't help anymore. Might as well replace it if its already leaking.

 

Is the "grommet" the washer for the bolt?

 

Yes. It's like a cupped washer with a rubber disk nested in it.

 

The rubber disc gets hard and brittle. Toyota sells new bolts with the disc in the cup. Felpro kit includes the disk. Personally I like OEM for my Toyota but I used Felpro for my LS 5.3 and they were good quality. Also be careful not to overtighten those little 10mm bolts as several here have reported snapping them.

 

@shifty` got this email after ordering the bolts and grommet part number you posted above

 

Interesting as the pn they posted is 7$ more expensive, each!

 

Correct. It doesn't match the VIN, those parts are for a V8 4Runner with the exact same engine, so it's 100% compatible. Tell them to go ahead with the order. I ordered all of those parts myself, and confirm 100% compatibility with our '06es. Several others have used the bolt-and-washer combo in theirs and also confirm it. I actually learned about this part from one of the Yota shops online that sells VC gasket kits, they'll work with any 2UZ-FE loaded truck/SUV.

 

appreciate it man.

 

The bag of bolts I have is marked 90080-10330 and has 10 bolts in the bag.

 

Man thats great my searching for repairs brings me back to your helpful guides here!

Thanks for all the help this provided a couple years after the fact.

I was able to get my passenger side done today & now I'm just looking for some reassurance on this fipg.

I'm worried I didn't put enough/spread around enough at corners with the sharp angles.

Youtube guy spread all around/in those corners. Idk why I didn't.

I put "simple blobs" but not liberally & now I'm dreading starting up my truck tmrw.

Only one way to find out I guess!