What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Thanks! I’ll pm you if it looks like I’ll need it.

 

I'm gonna leave it Slick Willy . . . I don't need any traction for how I use it.
I'm not sure on the rattle can liner . . . I seem to remember seeing it somewhere . . . but maybe it was that rubber 'under-coating' stuff.

 

There's a few AC V8/4WD guys running around with that config and all ended up slightly squatted, like Dave here: https://tnstatic.net/attachments/20220520_165242-jpg.754583/
(Just a note, he's got helper bags in the rear, so the trailer doesn't squat him more, if I recall - his setup is basically identical to what you ordered. I think @evanhmn has your ordered setup too on his AC V8/4WD)

Then there's our resident AC V6/2WD person who got 3" lift in front, and with 1.5" lift in the rear still ended up about an inch lower in the rear: https://www.tundras.com/threads/a-kids-tundra.89748/#post-2414422

The AC and RC guys are really getting fucked by online vendors who don't disclose lifts are designed with DC 4WD trucks, and AC guys get massive lift. It's the main reason I wrote up "what to order" in the suspension section of the megathread.

It's entirely possible your truck is the unicorn that defies the trend, but be ready to be higher in the front

 

Squatted Yotas are popular in SC

 

any time we were down there and we seen a squatted truck or even up in VA wed leave a dollar with a note that said heres a buck towards finishing your lift kit. Lol

 

Oh and @evergreenkey for other advice...

• As said before, disco the lower bolt on the swaybar links with the truck still on the ground.
• Since you're doing your LBJs (hopefully you got new OEM bolts also), honestly, I found it 100x easier to pop off my caliper, and unbolt my CV axle (34mm nut if stock, IIRC), then remove the whole knuckle so I could slap it on the ground and press out the UBJ. Trying to finagle a BJ press with the knuckle installed was a harcore PITA, it took me 60 seconds to pop off the BJ with the knuckle off. I spent an hour trying to pop the UBJ with the knuckle on. There's a way you can pitch the knuckle at roughly 10 o'clock and point it outside the fender well if you don't have fender flares, but I couldn't, and even for those that can, ones I saw able to get there needed to wrap their BJ press to keep it from scratching the paint, the fitment is so tight.
• Note the orientation of the lower strut bolt; it's easier to take out if the UBJ is unfastened so you can pivot the knuckle (and thus CV axle) toward the rear of the truck, else the lower shock bolt will eat your CV boot. Reinstall the lower shock bolt before you button the rest back up, else it's virtually impossible to get back in the proper orientation. You'll see a lot of dudes on here with theirs installed in reverse. Not a deal killer, but it's a PITA to properly torque it if it's installed backwards from what the factory shipped it.
• Be prepared to really step on the LCA in order to cram the new strut in.
• Torque specs: https://www.tundras.com/threads/torque-specs-front-suspension.132513/#post-3367825
• Do the passenger side first; when you replace the UCA on the driver's side, the cluster of hard lines here will get in your way when you pull the pivot bolt out. There's a way to unclip that bracket on the firewall and move them out of the way, if you don't move it, you'll probably break the clip and it is $$$$ to replace.
• Be gentle pulling out your ABS sensors, give a little wiggle first before pulling up, last thing you want is to break one off
• Use (at minimum) blue threadlock when reinstalling your LBJ bolts, before torquing down to ~60ftlb
• EDIT: Have your OEM bottle jack handy if working alone, it's super helpful to hold things up, lift things up while you need both hands free, etc. It'll pay off in dividends, I'm sure.

While I don't agree with his methodology entirely, Josh @ 1st Gen does have this video you can watch to get an idea in advance of what you'll be up against. There's probably a reason he doesn't show doing the driver's side, knowing he replaced his UCAs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2unFVNRry8​

 

Jesus now I know how I sound when I'm explaining to people how to fix their VWs or explaining what could be wrong with someone's VR. All solid info tho. And I agree with the on vs off knuckle for the ball joints.

 

I mean ... if you ask for advice, I'm not gonna mince words.

I'd asked for similar advice bitd on Vortex with installing my Koni sport kit in the 1st year MKIV ~20yrs ago. Random dude south of Tampa wanted to get in on that action, and I took him up on it. I felt bad all I had to offer was some cold beers after, but he seemed to have fun. I'd have been just as happy having someone write out what I just wrote. If I can't be there to help, I'll write out what I hope helps.

I'm sure I'm forgetting something, those were just the "aha!"s and gotchas I remember.

 

Us VW guys are weird, pay us in food and beer or alcohol and were there for a good time. Its a passion thing with us. Well thats how it used to be anyhow.

The community used to be tight like super tight. Now it's just of shit stains with bolt ons and gruggle tunes argueing over who has the best Rotiform wheels and air ride. No respect, no offers for help, no knoweldge sharing. Ive always been a loner car guy, and when guys like me say its bad, its fucking bad.

 

We have no passion or soul here

 

I feel like thats a lie, but I mean if were soulless million mile truck owners im good with that as well, and glad to be here for it

 

Thanks for all the tips, appreciate it! Luckily this is an AZ truck so it shouldn’t be too rusted up, the previous owner kept it in pretty good shape. I’ve been doing a good bit of the usual maintenance recently, decided it was time to fix the suspension issues. I have done some other suspension work, but this will be the most advanced work by far. All of these detailed tips are indispensable, thanks again!

These trucks are indestructible though! Actually just recently bought a new skid plate off craigslist from a Toyota mechanic here locally, dude said these were his favorite trucks. Will be good to have a contact that knows these trucks front to back.

 

The Toyo/Lex specialty shop I had align my truck could have any model imaginable for their parts truck. They have a newer year 1st Gen. these are the guys who have their heads up in every year and model imaginable, they chose a 1st gen as their old reliable. That reaffirmed my choice right there.

 

Getting the upper ball joint out of the spindle was pretty sketchy for me. I had to cut off the bolt part with an angle grinder, then use a ball joint press, 1/2 inch breaker bar with a pipe to get it to pop.

Lots of force needed!

We did 885 on my sons AC 4x4 wit a 1” block in the back. He loves it!

 

How old? Mine are original and look like they need replaced ... at least the cushions (like $5/ea) ... but assume the greased boots will fail soon after 240K...? Surprisingly no rust.

 

I had the same fear. The rust specifically is what cracked my windshield, so really wanted to be certain it was handled properly. Removed the glass, repaired the rusty spot (actually cut out a small section of the flange and welded in a piece of sheet metal to replace in the passenger top corner, where the gutter seal meets the windshield), then put the windshield back on (2 small bolts on each side) and drove it to the glass shop for the replacement. Every shop is different, but the one I went to had me sign a waiver against a guarantee for no-leaks since I did the repair work myself. Just a heads up.

I'm guessing that was just a wire wheel and a spray can, eh? Was that an additional charge?

That's kinda like stretching a rubber band to make it longer. If you're serious tho, I'd imagine alot of heat will be the only way

Hey! that's MY I.M.S.!
Alton Pkwy near Jamboree? Love that place. Gotta shop the rems every visit. I'd say 80% of the stuff I've bought there, came from the rem section. The 'artist' bins in the center have treasures for fabricating too. And yeah, the sales guys/gals have always been super cool there.

That could've been a yelp review.... okay so 10/10 or 5 stars or whatever yelp's scale goes up to

 

Pretty much and no additional charge. I want to say it was like $270 for the whole deal.

 

Original to the truck. Only 74k(ish) miles on them, all southern no-salt driving. You could probably tap the backside (lower, where the ball is) to install a zerk and pump fresh grease thru them to refresh, tben throw some new bushings if you wanted, but my bushings looked way better than yours.

pics are in the 1st Gen marketplace if you wanna have a look. Search the page for “AAL” and you’ll find my thread. Or edit, here’s the link: https://www.tundras.com/threads/icon-aal-oem-upper-control-arms-leafs-swaybar-links-etc.131444/

 

Love that spot in Irvine! Thats my go to metal supply shop as well

 

Yeah, he had a mint supercharged 4x4 with like 60k miles, it was a nice piece! Gonna have him do a once over on my work when it’s all said and done

 

Had to do the same nonsense on my ex’s trailblazer that was from up north, made me very appreciative of working on desert trucks!!

 

Been away for a while for no reason in particular but I had a Tundra related incident so here I am, ready to share. It's a strange failure for sure. I was backing out of my driveway onto our neighborhood street when I heard a pop and lost most of my steering ability. My first thought was LBJ failure so I put it in park and jumped out to survey the damage.

Well, it wasn't LBJ but the inner and outer tie rods separated.


Has anyone ever seen this happen?

I figured out what failed in my case. I've had play in the inner tie rod ball joint for a few years. It never seemed to get worse whenever I would check, just a slight wobble when I'd push on the wheel side to side. But it has prevented me from getting an alignment for years.

Well I believe that small amount of play over the years fatigued the threads between the inner and outer rods to the point that today under stress of backing up with the wheel turned sharp hitting the bump where my drive transitions to the street was enough to cause complete separation.

I was surprisingly able to force it back in my driveway with only 1 wheel steering on the slippery wet asphalt thanks to rain overnight.

I already had the inner tie rod on standby in the garage but I had to borrow my wife's car and pickup a new outer tie rod, bellows and clamp. Got it reassembled and adjusted to the same alignment as the old pair and it drives just the same as it did prior to failure. But at least now I can go get an alignment.

 

I went over the weekend to a junkyard and snagged 2 outer tie rods just to have in case i ever break one on the trail. Just thought id share since you brought up your tie rod breaking, haha

 

THEY CAME!! My UPS guy caught me as I was walking out the door for work. Of course i opened them and did and "inspect"....... Ehich clearly wasnt for this thread.....

 

Damn thsts a good one

 

Done . . . . much happier now.

 

whats covering your windows?

 

Is that your blue 3rd gen T4R?

 

Looks like burple