Wheel bearings and LBJ's

Got a drone coming from the front, assume it is coming form wheel bearings.

What is everyone using?

I work at Autozone.....is their stuff a no go?

I want to do both sides right, so would nee part #'s etc.

Also.....LBJ's. Min were replaced with Duralast parts.......do I need OEM or is MevoTech GTG?

 

Just save yourself the hassle and potential future problems and go with OEM on both parts.

 

OEM is Koyo, I believe. SKF and Timken are regarded as great also. What are your options at Autozone?

 

Actually, confirmed. Quick search on Koyo dredged this up: https://www.tundras.com/threads/2-wd-front-wheel-bearings.96818/#post-2458998

 

Here is some helpful info:https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/ Pay special attention to this >
MAINTENACE AND PARTS ... this is a big one

• DO yourself a favor, buy OEM replacement (Denso/Aisin brand) parts where possible. DO NOT buy parts on scAmazon or fleaBay, many have gotten screwed with counterfeit/knockoff parts as seen in posts here. A great way to discounted parts from Toyota directly is outlined here. RockAuto gives forum members a 5% discount. Summit Racing often has 10%-20% off coupons if you sign up for their catalog. Advance Auto Parts often has 15%-25% coupons for in-store pickup orders made online. Those latter don't sell OEM parts, but do sell LEGIT parts.
• Parts you should ONLY buy OEM, else you *will* eventually find yourself kicking your own ass: LOWER BALLJOINTS (this is huge). O2 sensors. Starter. Fuel pump. Cam bolts & sleeves (also huge). Lower control arms (also huge). Too many who ignored this lower balljoint warning found their front wheel horizontal, stuffed into their cab down the road. Don't be them. You can make OEM pricing on LBJs comparable to aftermarket by buying Toyota's OEM LBJ recall kit. Buy fresh high-strength bolts (8 needed) while you're at it! Some aftermarket-is-OK part exceptions are HERE. But seriously, THE OEM LOWER BALLJOINT HYPE IS REAL, here's some proof, there's dozens more where this came from, don't be these people: , , link, link, link, link, link, link, link. If you're worried about costs of OEM, just buy the OEM recall kit.
• Toyota oil and air filters are just about the best you can get. This is counterintuitive to how I was brought up, thus not easy for me to type here (sorry, Wix!!). Toyota invested ample $$ ensuring their filters are perfectly mated to guarantee longevity of their drivetrains, they want to uphold that historic Toyota reputation of mechanical longevity.

And last but not least here is some more helpful info for parts and part numbers:https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113808/

 

I believe Koyo is the OEM part. Timken had a great reputation, but it's not supported by some of their recent products. I purchased the Koyo replacements and have yet to install them.....

 

I can get outside buys on lots of things. No OEM LBJ's though.

 

See if you can get Koyo. If you can, there's the route.

Be aware, you're potentially in for a fun time pressing in/out.

(I've seen some people just replace the whole knuckle assembly instead)

 

From Shifty’s mega thread:

Oh, and save some cash. If you buy the LBJ recall kit from Toyota, it apparently includes both LBJs, and is significantly cheaper, like, 40-60% less, which actually makes it cheaper than Moog and others (no bolts, though):

Late '04 - '06 kit is Toyota p/n 04006-62134
Early '02 - '03 kit is Toyota p/n 04005-21134
Early '01 - '02 kit is Toyota p/n 04005-04134

 

Link doesn't open.

 

Yeah, those PNs are no good anymore. Here are the ones I found that seem to be most current for LBJ ASSEMBLIES. 43340-39485 (LH), and 43330-39605 (RH). Keep in mind there are PNs for just the joint. NOT bracket and joint. These numbers are for the entire assembly.

 

It's not that the part numbers aren't any good. For some reason, they're being linked as a telephone number by my browser (and I'm assuming yours is doing that too).

The part numbers are technically "good", but because they're the recall kit (which includes both joints), and it's not something you can order directly online (save for a few dealerships like Ourisman), those part numbers haven't been working in the official Toyota Parts site.

That said, it's important to be careful here. @NEXT's '06 truck does not use the same balljoint as your '03 truck, the year breakdown is in the list above. I just had to order some for my '06 truck and my part numbers were:

2006 year AC
Left Lower Suspension Ball Joint (1 required)
Part Number: 43340-39595

Right Lower Suspension Ball Joint (1 required)
Part Number: 43330-39825

Flange Bolt (8 required) <--- Always replace the bolts; it's cheap insurance, bolt stretch is real
Part Number: 90105-12316

We've had a few people on here get the wrong parts and they wouldn't fit properly. I think one of those was because the person had a "crossover" year, where the truck was build in one year, like in late '03, but was badged as an '04 (or similar).

I assume NEXT's crew cab, errrr double cab, would use the same as mine. As always, include your VIN when making your order online at https://autoparts.toyota.com

 

Sorry for the confusion if I created any. I didn't consider that they changed design or fitment over the years. YES! Absolutely confirm correct PNs with YOUR VIN. Incidentally, I found a very easy website to navigate for parts, with good diagrams. It's connected with a stealership here in AZ, but they ship anywhere. Prices seem to be somewhat reasonable too. https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/

 

Too funny, I've passed that dealership on my way to work when they've shipped me to PHX.

 

If that bearing race splits and stays stuck on the hub, that’s when the fun starts. I ended up buying new Toyota hubs instead of trying to cut off the races. I used a 20 ton press to do the work. It’s also the time to replace or repair those dust shields as that’s the only access when the hub is pressed out. I got the bearings from yotashop, everything else from the local dealer. Honestly the rear bearings were worse with all the brake work that needed done.

 

Yeah. Even getting the knuckle off can be a pain.

 

I suspect those in the rust belt have it much worse. Good time to replace those upper ball joints as well (if they need it).

 

How much should I be looking to pay a garage if I provide parts

 

The only number I can give is a shop in Portland wanted $1500 to do the rear wheel bearings (that included parts). Some places won’t use customer parts, or they give you the “special” rate. Shop rates are crazy these days. Maybe you are near a member that likes to turn a wrench. Might be worth a shot to ask around.

 

Community wrenching is gonna be the way moving forward for people to be able to afford to keep driving. New is crazy expensive, old and needs maintenance and repairs is crazy expensive. Time to get handy people.

 

To add some confirmation — just had the dealer do LBJ replacement and the part numbers used for my '03 match the above.

 

Can confirm. Though, luckily, I wasn't the one having the "fun" time.