2000 Tundra SR5 suspension/steering/brake mods wishlist?

Hello all, I recently purchased a 2000 Tundra SR5 (270k) that needs new CV axles. Since I will be taking it apart I figured I'd ask for any input on any suspension/steering/brake mods or upgrades I should consider while it's in pieces. Don't care about lifting the truck or going "all out". Just want a quality ride that lasts. I'm guessing OEM or equivalent but wanted to ask anyways. Happy to consider quality aftermarket.

Based on research so far I'm considering:
CVJ axles 9550t
GX460 brakes

Others?

Thanks for any thoughts!

 

Do not buy parts on scAmazon or fleaBay.

Just get reman OEM axles direct from Toyota Parts website, for local dealership pickup, Toyota p/n 43430-0C010-84

If no lift, stick with Bilstein 4600 front and rear.

Why GX460 breaks, just curious?

Read this thread if you haven't already, since you're new to the truck.

ALWAYS USE OEM LBJs.

 

Thx Shifty. Will get reading.

Re: Brakes: I drive up and down a lot of canyon roads during ski season, noticed my brakes were not cutting it, did some research and reading GX460 calipers is a good upgrade from stock...?

 

Going from memory, but ...

Only do the 14WA (GX460) if you choose to use the guy on here everyone else used to machine properly.

Seriously though, just upgrade to 13WL that they put in the later gens like my truck.

Others may disagree, but 13WL should be bolt-on IIRC, and no special BS required, no risk of bad machining either.

 

You'll need 17" wheels for the GX460 upgrade if you do not have them already. If your truck has S13WE calipers installed, another upgrade that is a step below the GX460 is 13WL calipers from other 1st gens.

 

JINX!

Yeah. Go 13WL, bro. It's a no-brainer swap. I think you may still need to trim dust shield, but I can't recall 100%.

 

Yup, you have to trim it a smidge.

 

haven’t read a post of yours that disagree with yet. I’m not really satisfied with my stocks but I also need a full service of my brake system. Still undecided on GX bbk or refresh original set up and hope it feels like money well spent. What’s your take on switching to disc in the rear?

 

It's expensive, and I think only one person has done it. Can't remember who. Maybe @alb1k or @des2mtn?

 

des2mtn: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-1501#post-3138653

That'll get you in the ballpark of where he talks about it.

You've got an AC like me, and RC/AC use a different axle width, so it would probably be significantly more of a PITA than if you had a DC.

If you are savvy with welding and don't mind getting into it, you can do anything. Will it be worth it? That's a great question. Not sure how people are handling e-Brake after the conversion either.

 

@des2mtn did it. I think he has a huge write up on the front and rear.

 

I don't have 14WAs in the front currently, I'm limited by my 16" wheels. Master cylinder and rear brakes are upgraded with LSPV delete.

 

I need to talk to you more about brakes this trip...

 

Oh, stop

 

This is all fantastic information, thank you!

Like I said I'm not looking to do anything too nuts so I will look into 13WL kits.

These kits seem to be popular on Amazon and rockauto:

$582 Power Stop KC2324-36 Power Stop Brake Kit For Toyota Tundra Sequoia Caliper Casting #13WL - Z36 Truck & Tow Front Calipers, Carbon-Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads, and Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors Replacement, KC2324-36

Power Stop KC2324-36 Z36

lots more research to do...

 

Bilstein 4600??? Really I did these and the very first ride they were great a little stiff but comfy and they felt solid….now after settling and quite a bit of miles i feel like I am driving this massive Cadillac of a boat which too an extent that is true it’s heavy and big but I wonder is there a better option??? 6112 for more of a firm ride? Or possibly change springs in front? I don’t know any better I only present the question and secretly hope for @shifty` ’s opinion…

 

I’ve got a box of 6112’s given me dirty looks everyday when I leave the house. Getting to it soon.

 

I misspoke I said 6112 but what I really meant was 5100 on stock height setting. I am reading that those would give more of a firm ride.

 

I mean, my '06 AC Limited's OEM springs were apparently KYB from the factory. I haven't installed my coilovers up front yet but I'm presuming KYB there too.

4600 are supposed to be identical to the 5100 as far as body and internals go, just with different valving. Keywords "supposed to be".

Banksy's offering on his 6112s is actually a pretty solid deal if anyone is looking. They're listed in the 1st Gen marketplace. But may be too beefy for someone who isn't lifting.

 

Is there any reason to think the stock spring would be worn out form years of use? Maybe settled and not the original ride height? For everyday commute and I say 5100 stock setting and stock spring or a new stock spring???

 

Years? No. Miles? Yes.

Compressed from miles of heavy ass truck riding on them? Yes. This is a known thing.

New stock spring, within 5mm height of the stock spring height.
If DC and 4WD with or w/o any added weight, go 700lb spring.
If AC/RC and 2WD w/o any added weight, go 650lb spring.
If somewhere in the middle, figure it out and coin toss-up on it.

DC is heavier than AC/RC. 4WD adds hundred(s) of lbs up front. I'm sure someone may have part numbers for OEM springs too, if you just wanted to replace w/OEM. I don't think there's a reason, for example, you couldn't toss DC 4WD springs into an AC.

But I have no idea wtf cab you have because you didn't bother to include that in your truck info under your name. It's something super important to consider with suspension: What cab type, what drivetrain type, and do you have any extra heavy stuff like armor, cap, etc. I happen to know it's either RC or AC b/c of the year, but ... who knows which drivetrain?!