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Temp sensor for upper dash/map lights

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by JAXABOI, Sep 25, 2021.

  1. Sep 25, 2021 at 12:22 PM
    #1
    JAXABOI

    JAXABOI [OP] New Member

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    Hey all, recently my map light switches broke so knowing there is another 05 in a junk yard nearby i went and took the entire housing from it, its one of the fancy ones with the garage door opener and the outoor temp screen. The entire front end of the truck is crushed so there was no finding the outside temo sensor. Am I correct in thinking that this part is the ambient temperature sensor https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...al-ambient-air-temperature-sensor/odi0/171224

    The housing mounted right uo and plugged in no issues and the garage door opener workz. I would assume the wire for the temo sensor is pre run as i see the pigtail where that ambient sensor is supposed to connect. Once that is connected shouls that make it read the temp? As right now it js a black screen unless I push the garage buttons?

    Thanks
     
  2. Sep 25, 2021 at 5:58 PM
    #2
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Last edited: Jan 22, 2022
  3. Sep 25, 2021 at 6:33 PM
    #3
    JAXABOI

    JAXABOI [OP] New Member

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    Yes i have a double cab sorry this is my backup acct so my truck info is bland lmao. Thats the same part i have coming tomorrow so hopefully it will work out! If not its not like im losing anythinf other than 25 bucks for the sensor. My garage door is being a bitch to program the remote bc itd a rolling sensor and its not very straightforward lol. It programs to the remote but then it doesnt program to the door. But hey if i could get the temp im happy l. Regretting not realizinf i probably should have grabbed the compass from the roof when i was in the yard but hey. Thanks for the reply ill update yall when i get the part in fingers crossed!
     
  4. Sep 25, 2021 at 6:38 PM
    #4
    JAXABOI

    JAXABOI [OP] New Member

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  5. Sep 25, 2021 at 7:03 PM
    #5
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Yep, that's the one. And those hands ... I wonder what PHM would say? :rofl:

    Regarding the pain in the ass with garage door opener programming. Depending which model you have, you may need a special bridge to make your opener compatible with Homelink because the industry moved to Security+ 2.0 encryption crap more than a decade ago, IIRC

    I know for our latest Chamberlain I'd installed when the top gear sheared off the old one, I had to buy a part called the HOMELINK COMPATIBILITY BRIDGE (p/n is stupidly "HOMELINK RPTR"). Basically, they send you a new remote control and this box with an antenna pigtail you install to a power outlet near your opener. IIRC, it works as follows:
    • Take your original original garage door opener remote, along with the new remote control they send you to program the new RPTR box with both.
    • From that point forward, when you push the button on the new remote, the new RPTR box receives it, then broadcasts the other remote's code to the opener using the new encryption (or something?)
    • You then use the new RPTP remote control to program your Homelink in the same fashion
    My first RPTR bought off A-Zon was DOA and it came in a plain white, non-retail box, I spent hours trying to get it to work - I think it was a return someone sent back because it was broken and those dicks at A-Zon resold it. I ordered another one directly from Chamberlain, and it still took about an hour to get it all working.

    I'm really not happy with the range using Homelink - range is great using the old, original remote. Homelink, I can pull under the RPTR, so my Homelink receiver in the car is less than 36" below it, and it still takes 5-10 seconds of holding the button before it 'wakes up' and does what it's supposed to do.

    Anyway, get the model number off your opener. Google the part number, and see if it's using "Security+ 2.0", or just go to the manufacturer's website and call them or web-chat them to see if your "older version of Homelink transmitter" is compatible with your opener.

    The aggravating part about this is Homelink KNEW this was coming. It wasn't something that just got snapped on them overnight. The transition happened a long time ago, yet even our 2012 and my old 2013 Toyotas, neither OEM Homelink unit was compatible with Security+ 2.0! LAME!
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2022
    FrenchToasty likes this.
  6. Sep 25, 2021 at 7:38 PM
    #6
    JAXABOI

    JAXABOI [OP] New Member

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    Ah shit i was thinking the same thing maybe hell get in here and give his opinion lmao. As for your advice with the door opener you are a friggin life saver! Its a fairly new chamberlain opener with the myq and all that crap and that explains it! It works on everyone elses car, (2018 nissan titan and infiniti qx80 and 21 CRV) so im jelly ;). I gotta give that a look thak you!
     
  7. Sep 25, 2021 at 7:56 PM
    #7
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    NP, this one has bit more people I know in the ass than I can count. Always the same situation: Either friend moves into new house, or they replace garage door opener, suddenly the opener doesn't work. I can give you some more details that may help.

    Every door opener motor has a programming button on it. Its color says a lot.
    If the programming button is ORANGE or RED in color, and the LED that flashes when pushing it is amber, it uses the older Security+ 390MHz rolling code.
    If the programming button is PURPLE and the LED that flashes when you push it is amber, it's using the older Security+ 315MHz rolling code.
    If the programming button on the opener motor is YELLOW and the LED that flashes when you push it is amber, it's using the newer Security+ 2.0 encrypted stuff

    Security+ 2.0 came out in 2011. I can't remember where I looked it up, but my garage door opener is the Chamberlain C205 and it wouldn't work with our 2012 Highlander or 2013 Camry. I found a webpage somewhere that let you input your opener model number and the model of your car, and it told you whether the two were compatible.

    The whole situation sucks. Like, if Homelink had been on top of it, it wouldn't have fixed anything for our older Tundras, but my Camry and Highlander would've worked find, and I wouldn't have needed to drop half the cost of the opener buying the stupid bridge, which just makes things potentially just as insecure as before!
     
  8. Sep 25, 2021 at 8:00 PM
    #8
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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  9. Sep 26, 2021 at 4:50 AM
    #9
    JAXABOI

    JAXABOI [OP] New Member

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    Haha yup. They jus cant seem to wrap their head around being ahead of the curve lol thank you so much ill update when j get the sensor in and again when i figure out the door opener
     
  10. Sep 26, 2021 at 5:25 AM
    #10
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Been Real

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    Even tho mine is an 04 DC, I would assume you should at least see what's shown below. That is mine if I unplug outside temp sensor.

    OutsideTemp.jpg
     
    WestCoast Fl likes this.
  11. Sep 26, 2021 at 6:28 AM
    #11
    EvilMilkshake

    EvilMilkshake New Member

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    Fellow late (05) AC ATL bro here -- Did you put in an overhead console with the sunroof controls? I have never seen one without those, so I'm curious. I went the all in one mirror gentex mirror route, and did not see any pigtails in the headliner side either. Curious if I could have saved the trouble of running the wires now...
     
  12. Sep 26, 2021 at 10:16 AM
    #12
    JAXABOI

    JAXABOI [OP] New Member

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    uh oh... mine is completely blank its an 05 DC. If yours shows that without it plugged in i might have a problem lol. The light with the house thingy comes on the screen for the garage door when i push it so I know the leds work, and have power. Hate to ask this of you but if you have a chance could you take a pic of the plug that that whole assembly plugs into so i could see how many wires are going into it from the truck side... if you get the chance i would appreciate it.
     
  13. Sep 26, 2021 at 10:36 AM
    #13
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Been Real

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    Until I can, would you take a pic of the Overhead Console that you installed. Mine has moon roof controls also and want to post proper elec diag drawing for 2005 in case it helps !
     
  14. Sep 26, 2021 at 10:59 AM
    #14
    JAXABOI

    JAXABOI [OP] New Member

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    yessir as soon as I am out of work ill get that up, mine is identical to yours moon roof controls color and everything lol
     
  15. Sep 26, 2021 at 11:02 AM
    #15
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Been Real

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    Ok, no need to post then. I’ll have pics up shortly.

    2005 Tundra EWD - EWD611U

    According to the 2005 EWD, the below should be your connectors....

    1 Wh-Blk
    2 Grn-Or
    3 Red
    4 Pink
    5 Blue
    6 Blk-Red
    7 Wh-Grn
    8 Grn
    9 Red-Yel
    10 Red-Wh
    11 Grn-Yel
    12 Pink-Blk
    13

    If you do a search in that 2005 EWD for the words Overhead Module , there are 11 items. Viewing those items shows you the connections and their color for matching of yours.

    Overhead Module.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2021
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  16. Sep 26, 2021 at 12:28 PM
    #16
    JAXABOI

    JAXABOI [OP] New Member

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    Yep theres the problem... ive only got 3 wires there haha
     
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  17. Sep 26, 2021 at 1:10 PM
    #17
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Temperature wasn't an option in the Access Cab or Regular Cab. It's a Double Cab-only feature, just like the Sunroof option.

    If you want to install in the AC/RC trucks like ours, it's possible, but you need to get the right harnesses and custom-cut your headliner. I have the main harness required but opted to go Gentex without temp sensor (I'll probably sell the harness one of these days ... )

    Others have gone Gentex and repurposed the temp sensor from any number of other vehicles out there.
     
  18. Sep 26, 2021 at 1:52 PM
    #18
    EvilMilkshake

    EvilMilkshake New Member

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    Oh yeah, sorry if I wasn't clear. That's exactly what I did, :).
    Got a gentex with dim, temp, compass, and homelink. Love it.

    For a second I thought there was a different option based on what you said, but I must have missed your specificity on the DC only.
     

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